ESSENTIALS OF COOKING VOLUME 5-1
FRUIT AND FRUIT DESSERTS
CANNING AND DRYING
JELLY MAKING, PRESERVING, AND PICKLING
CONFECTIONS
BEVERAGES
THE PLANNING OF MEALS
PREFACE
This volume, the fifth of The Complete Library Of Cooking, deals with
the varieties of fruits and the desserts that can be made from them,
the canning and preserving of foods, the making of confections of every
description, beverages and their place in the diet, and every phase of
the planning of meals.
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With fruits becoming less seasonal and more a daily food, an
understanding of them is of great value to the housewife. In Fruit and
Fruit Desserts, she first learns their place in the diet, their nature,
composition, and food value. Then she proceeds with the preparation and
serving of every variety of fruit. Included in this section also are
fruit cocktails, those refreshing appetizers often used to introduce a
special meal.
To understand how to preserve perishable foods in the seasons of plenty
for the times when they are not obtainable is a valuable part of a
housewife's knowledge. Canning and Drying deals with two ways of
preserving foodstuffs, treating carefully the equipment needed and all
the methods that can be employed and every part of the procedure
followed. The fruits and vegetables that permit of canning, as
well as certain meats and fish, are taken up in a systematic manner.
Jelly Making, Preserving, and Pickling continues a discussion of the
home preservation of foods, showing how they can be kept for long
periods of time not by sterilization, but with the aid of preservatives.
Each one of these methods is treated as to its principles, equipment,
and the procedure to be followed. After trying the numerous recipes
given, the housewife will be able to show with pride the results of her
efforts, for nothing adds more to the attractiveness and palatability of
a meal than a choice jelly, conserve, marmalade, or jam.
Confections deals with that very delightful and fascinating part of
cookery--confection making. Not only are home-made confections cheaper
than commercially made ones, but they usually contain more wholesome
materials, so it is to the housewife's advantage to familiarize herself
with the making of this food. Recipes are given for all varieties of
confections, including taffies, caramels, cream candies, and the
confections related to them. Fondant making is treated in detail
showing every step and directions for making many unusual kinds.
Though beverages often receive only slight consideration, they are so
necessary that the body cannot exist very long without them. In
Beverages is discussed the relation of beverages to meals, the classes
of beverages, and the preparation of those required by the human system,
as well as the proper way to serve them. In addition to coffee, tea,
cocoa, chocolate, and cereal beverages, fruit, soft, and nourishing
drinks receive their share of attention.
To be a successful home maker, it is not enough for a housewife to know
how to prepare food; she must also understand how to buy it, how to look
after the household accounts, what constitutes correct diet for each
member of her family, how to plan menus for her regular meals and for
special occasions, and the essentials of good table service. All these
things, and many more, she learns in The Planning of Meals, which
completes this volume.
CONTENTS
FRUIT AND FRUIT DESSERTS 5
Fruit in the Diet 5
Composition of Fruits 7
Food Value of Fruits 10
Preparing and Serving Fruits 12
Blackberries 13
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Blueberries 14
Cranberries 15
Raspberries 16
Strawberries 16
Miscellaneous Berries 17
Apples 18
Apricots 20
Cherries 21
Grapes 21
Peaches 22
Pears 23
Plums 24
Quinces 24
Rhubarb 25
Grapefruit 26
Lemons 27
Oranges 28
Miscellaneous Citrus Fruits 29
Bananas 29
Pineapples 31
Miscellaneous Tropical Fruits 32
Melons 33
Fruit Cocktails 34
Dates 36
Figs 36
Prunes 37
Raisins 38
Dried Apples, Apricots, and Peaches 39
CANNING AND DRYING 40
Necessity for Preserving Foods 40
Principles of Canning 42
General Equipment for Canning 44
Open-Kettle Method 47
Cold-Pack Method 48
Procedure in the One-Period Cold-Pack Method 49
Procedure in the Fractional-Sterilization Method 51
Steam-Pressure Methods 52
Canning with Tin Cans 52
Oven Method 53
Preparation for Canning 54
Directions for Canning Vegetables 55
Directions for Canning Fruits 60
Sirups for Canning Fruits 61
Canning Meat and Fish 67
Storing and Serving Canned Foods 68
Scoring Canned Foods 68
Principles of Drying 69
Drying Methods 70
Directions for Drying Vegetables and Fruits 72
Storing and Cooking Dried Foods 73
JELLY MAKING, PRESERVING, AND PICKLING 74
Value of Jellies, Preserves, and Pickles 74
Principles of Jelly Making 76
Equipment for Jelly Making 77
Procedure in Jelly Making 79
Scoring Jelly 83
Recipes for Jelly 84
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Principles of Preserving 86
Preserves 87
Conserves 89
Marmalades 92
Jams 94
Butters 96
Principles of Pickling 98
Recipes for Pickles 98
Recipes for Relishes 102
CONFECTIONS 107
Nature of Confections 107
Composition of Confections 108
Foundation Materials in Confections 109
Flavorings 111
Colorings 112
Acids 112
Food Materials 113
Equipment for Confection Making 115
Cooking the Mixture 118
Pouring and Cooling the Mixture 120
Finishing Candies 121
Taffies and Similar Candies 123
Caramels 128
Fudge and Related Candies 129
Fondant and Related Creams 132
Miscellaneous Confections 138
Serving Candy 141
BEVERAGES 142
Nature and Classes of Beverages 143
Water in Beverages 143
Relation of Beverages to Meals 144
Alcoholic Beverages 145
Stimulating Beverages 146
History and Production of Coffee 148
Preparation of Coffee 149
Serving Coffee 153
History and Production of Tea 154
Preparation of Tea 155
Serving Tea 156
Nature and Selection of Cocoa and Chocolate 157
Preparation of Cocoa and Chocolate 158
Serving Cocoa and Chocolate 160
Cereal Beverages 161
Ingredients for Fruit Beverages 162
Preparation of Fruit Beverages 162
Soft Drinks 166
Nourishing Beverages 166
THE PLANNING OF MEALS 169
Necessity for Careful Meal Planning 169
Successful Marketing 170
Keeping Household Accounts 171
Factors Influencing Cost of Foods 175
Economical Buying 176
Suitability of Food 179
Composition of Food 180
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Balancing the Diet 182
Diet for Infants and Children 187
Diet for the Family 190
Proportion of Food Substances 191
General Rules for Menu Making 192
Card-File System for Menu Making 193
Dinner Menus 194
Luncheon Menus 197
Breakfast Menus 199
Menus for Special Occasions 201
Table Service 209
* * * * *
FRUIT AND FRUIT DESSERTS
FRUIT IN THE DIET
1. FRUIT, as is generally understood, is the fleshy, juicy product of
some plant or tree which, when ripe, is suitable for use as food.
Although some fruits are seedless, they generally contain the seeds of
the plants or trees that produce them. Many fruits require cooking to
make them palatable, others are never cooked, and still others may be
cooked or eaten raw, as desired.
Fruits, because they are wholesome, appetizing, and attractive, occupy a
valuable place in the diet. In fact, it is these qualities rather than
their food value that accounts for the popularity of fruits among all
people. In addition to causing fruits to appeal to the esthetic sense,
their attractiveness serves another important purpose. It is said that
Nature made them attractive in color, odor, and flavor in order that
birds might be allured to attack them for food and, by spreading the
seeds, assist in their propagation.
2. Fruits are gradually growing to be less seasonal and more a daily
food, and are thus constantly becoming more prevalent in the diet. This
condition may be attributed to the present rapid means of transportation
and the excellent methods of cold storage that exist. Through these
agencies it is possible to ship more or less perishable fruits long
distances from their native localities and at times of the year other
than the particular season in which they are at their best in the places
where they are grown. Thus, fruits that were formerly considered a
luxury may now be served regularly, even on the tables of persons having
only moderate means.
The fact that fruits are being more extensively used every day is as it
should be, for this food is entitled to an important place in the diet
of all persons. So important is fruit in the diet that it must be looked
on not as one of the things that may be taken or omitted as a person
wishes without making any difference either way, but as a food to
include in one form or another in nearly every meal. The child who is so
young that it cannot take any solid food may have fruit juices included
in its diet to decided advantage; but children who are slightly older
and adults may take the fruits cooked or raw instead of in the form
of juices.
3. As far as the composition of fruits is concerned, it is such that
most fresh fruits are not particularly high in food value. However, they
are characterized by other qualities that make up for what they lack in
this respect; then, too, what they contain in the way of heat-producing
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or tissue-building material is easily digestible. Most fruits contain
considerable acid, and this food substance makes them stimulating to the
appetite. Advantage of this fact is taken when fruits are served at the
beginning of a breakfast or when several of them are combined in a fruit
cocktail and served before luncheon or dinner. This acid produces real
stimulation in the stomach, resulting in a flow of gastric juice from
the glands of the stomach walls. In addition, the delightful color, the
fragrant odor, or the pleasant taste of fruit, although a mental effect,
is just as real and just as valuable as the actual stimulation of
the acids.
4. Many fruits are eaten raw, while others are cooked either because
they require cooking to make them appetizing or because it is desired
not to use them in their raw state. The cooking of fruits has a variety
of effects on them, being sometimes advantageous and other times
detrimental. The flavor is always changed by the application of heat,
and in some cases the acid that fruit contains becomes stronger. On the
other hand, the fibrous material, or cellulose, of fruits is softened by
cooking and thus becomes more digestible. Then, too, the sugar that is
usually added to fruits in their cooking increases their food value.
Because of these facts, cooked fruits have considerable value and, like
raw fruits, should have an important place in the diet. Those fruits
which are dried and usually eaten raw, such as figs and dates, supply
much nourishment in an easily digestible form.
5. The medicinal value of fruit has long been considered to be of
importance, but this may be almost entirely disregarded, for, with the
exception of the fact that most fruits are valuable as a laxative, there
is nothing to consider. However, several fruits, such as blackberries
and bananas, have an anti-laxative effect, and large quantities of
these should for the most part be avoided, especially in the feeding
of children.
6. In general, fruits are divided into two classes, namely, food fruits
and flavor fruits. As their names imply, food fruits are valuable as
food, whereas flavor fruits are those distinguished by a
characteristic flavor. It should be remembered that the flavors, as well
as the odors, of fruits, are due chiefly to what is known as their
volatile, or ethereal, oils. Fruits in which these oils are very strong
are often irritating to certain persons and cause distress of some sort
after eating.
7. In this Section, it is the purpose to acquaint the housewife with the
relative value and uses of the various kinds of fruit, to teach her the
best methods of preparation, and to supply her with recipes that will
encourage her to make greater use of this valuable food in her family's
diet. In this discussion, however, the general classification of fruits
is not followed. Instead, the various fruits are arranged alphabetically
under the headings Berries, Non-Tropical Fruits, Citrus Fruits, Tropical
Fruits, Melons, and Dried Fruits, in order to simplify matters. While it
is hardly possible to use fruits too extensively, they must not be
allowed to take the place of other more nourishing foods that are
required by the body. Therefore, in order to make proper use of them,
their value in the diet should not be overlooked.
* * * * *
NATURE OF FRUITS
ADVANCE IN FRUIT CULTIVATION
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8. It is sometimes difficult to distinguish between vegetables and
fruits. For instance, the tomato is in reality a fruit, but it is
commonly used as a vegetable, and rhubarb is more of a vegetable than a
fruit, but it is always used as a fruit. It can therefore be seen that
the line between vegetables and fruits is not clearly drawn. It is well
to remember that fruit is usually the edible pulpy mass covering the
seeds of various plants and trees, and that it is generally cooked or
eaten raw with sugar, whereas vegetables are seldom sweetened
in cooking.
9. Great strides have been made in the cultivation of fruit. Many
varieties that formerly grew wild are now commonly cultivated. Most of
the cultivated fruits are superior to the same kind in the wild state,
at least in size and appearance, but often there seems to be a loss of
flavor. Through cultivation, some fruits that were almost inedible in
their wild state on account of containing so many seeds have been made
seedless. Also, through cross-cultivation, varieties of fruit different
from what formerly existed have been obtained. An example of such fruit
is the loganberry which is a cross between a red raspberry and a
blackberry and retains many of the qualities of each. However, some
small fruits, such as blueberries, or huckleberries, are still grown
wild and marketed only from their wild source.
10. While fruit is usually improved by cultivation, there has been a
tendency through this means to produce fruits that will stand up for
long periods of time, so that they may be marketed at great distances
from the place where they are grown. For instance, apples, especially
those found in the market in the spring, and other fruits, which look
very fine, will many times be found to have a tough skin and to be
almost tasteless.
In general, fruits of delicate flavor and texture cannot be kept very
long after they have ripened. To stand shipping, they must be picked in
their green stage; then if they are kept in the right temperature they
will ripen after picking. Bananas that are to be shipped a long distance
are picked when perfectly green, but by the time the consumer buys them
they are usually well ripened. In addition to bananas, a few other
tropical fruits are shipped out of their native climates in small
numbers and are sold at very high prices. However, many tropical fruits
cannot be shipped to the Northern States because of their
perishable nature.
* * * * *
COMPOSITION AND FOOD VALUE OF FRUITS
COMPOSITION OF FRUITS
11. The composition of fruits is a matter of considerable importance,
for on it the food value of the fruits depends. To a certain extent, the
composition of all fruits is the same, but the varieties of this food
differ in their food values almost as greatly as do vegetables. Many of
them are extremely low in this respect, while a few of them are rather
high. In order to determine the place that fruit should have in a meal,
it is necessary to obtain a definite idea of the composition as well as
the food value of the different varieties.
12. PROTEIN AND FAT IN FRUITS.--Such small quantities of protein and fat
are contained in fruits that very little attention need be given to
these substances. Exceptions are found in avocados, or alligator pears,
and in ripe olives, both of which are high in fat. Then, too, there is a
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small amount of protein in grapes and some other fruits, but it is not
sufficient to merit consideration.
13. CARBOHYDRATE IN FRUIT.--Whatever food value fruits may have, whether
it be high or low, is due to the carbohydrate they contain. Some green
fruits and bananas contain a very small amount of starch, but on the
whole the carbohydrate of fruits is in the form of sugar and is in
solution in the fruit juices. The chief form of this carbohydrate is
known as levulose, or fruit sugar. However, glucose, another form
of sugar, is also found in nearly all fruits, grapes and dried fruits,
such as figs, raisins, etc., containing an unusually large amount. In
addition, cane sugar is contained in the majority of fruits. Pectin
is also a carbohydrate that is found in large quantities in some fruits,
while in other fruits it is lacking. This substance is related to the
gums and to cellulose. Although it is one of the carbohydrates from
which no food value is derived, it is of considerable importance,
because it is responsible for the jelly-making properties of fruits.
14. In fruits that are not fully matured, or, in other words, green
fruits, the sugar has not developed to so great an extent as it has in
perfectly ripe fruits. Consequently, such fruits are not so high in food
value as they are when they become ripe. As is well known, it is the
sugar of fruits that accounts for their sweet taste, for the sweeter the
fruits, the more sugar and the less acid they contain. The quantity of
this substance varies from 1 per cent. in lemons to 20 per cent. in some
other fresh fruits, such as plums. In dried fruits, the amount of sugar
is much higher, reaching as high as 60 per cent. or even more in such
fruits as figs, dates, and raisins.
15. CELLULOSE IN FRUIT.--In fruits, as in vegetables, cellulose is found
in varying quantities. The larger the quantity, the lower will be the
food value of the fruit, except where the water has been evaporated, as
in the case of dried fruits. The digestibility of this cellulose,
however, is not worth considering, for, while it is possible that small
amounts of very young and tender cellulose from fruits may be digested,
on the whole this characteristic may be disregarded. The skins and seeds
of fruits, as well as the coarse material that helps to make up the
pulp, are known as refuse and are treated as such by the human digestive
tract; but it is to this waste material, or cellulose, that the laxative
quality of fruit is largely due.
In cases where there are digestive or intestinal troubles, it is often
necessary to remove the cellulose before the fruit is eaten. The coarse
material may be removed and that which is more tender may be broken up
by pressing the fruit through a sieve or a strainer of some kind. The
cooking of fruits is another means of making the cellulose in them more
easily digested, for it softens, or disintegrates, the various particles
of the indigestible material. When fruit is taken for its laxative
effect and the irritation of the cellulose needs no consideration, the
skins of the fruits may be eaten instead of being rejected. However, to
avoid any trouble, they should be well chewed.
16. Minerals in Fruit.--All fruits contain a certain percentage of
mineral salts. The quantity varies in the different kinds of fruits, but
it averages about 1 per cent. These salts have the opposite effect on
the blood from those found in meats and cereals, but they act in much
the same way as the minerals of vegetables. In other words, they have a
tendency to render the blood more alkaline and less acid. They are
therefore one of the food constituents that help to make fruit valuable
in the diet and should be retained as far as possible in its
preparation. In fact, any method that results in a loss of minerals is
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not a good one to adopt in the preparation of fruits.
The minerals commonly found in fruits are iron, lime, sodium, magnesium,
potash, and phosphorus. These are in solution in the fruit juices to a
very great extent, and when the juices are extracted the minerals
remain in them.
17. Acids in Fruit.--Some fruits contain only a small amount of acid,
while others contain larger quantities. It is these acids, together with
the sugar and the volatile oils of fruits, that constitute the entire
flavor of this food. Most ripe fruits contain less acid than unripe
ones, and cooked fruits are often higher in acid than the same
fruits when raw.
Numerous kinds of acid are found in the different varieties of fruits.
For example, lemons, oranges, grapefruit, and a few other fruits
belonging to the class known as citrus fruits contain citric acid;
peaches, plums, apricots, and apples, malic acid; and grapes and many
other fruits, tartaric acid.
TABLE I
COMPOSITION AND FOOD VALUE OF FRUITS
| | | | | |Food Value
Fruit |Water|Protein| Fat |Carbo- |Mineral|per Pound,
| | | |hydrate|Matter |in Calories
------------------+-----+-------+-----+-------+-------+-----------
| | | | | |
Apples, fresh |84.6 | .4 | .5 | 14.2 | .3 | 290
Apples, dried |28.1 | 1.6 | 2.2 | 66.1 | 2.0 | 1,350
Apricots, fresh |85.0 | 1.1 | -- | 13.4 | .5 | 270
Apricots, dried |29.4 | 4.7 | 1.0 | 62.5 | 2.4 | 1,290
Bananas |75.3 | 1.3 | .6 | 22.0 | .8 | 460
Blackberries |86.3 | 1.3 | 1.0 | 10.9 | .5 | 270
Cherries |80.9 | 1.0 | .8 | 16.7 | .6 | 365
Cranberries |88.9 | .4 | .6 | 9.9 | .2 | 215
Currants |85.0 | 1.5 | -- | 12.8 | .7 | 265
Dates |15.4 | 2.1 | 2.8 | 78.4 | 1.3 | 1,615
Figs, fresh |79.1 | 1.5 | -- | 18.8 | .6 | 380
Figs, dried |18.8 | 4.3 | .3 | 74.2 | 2.4 | 1,475
Grapefruit |86.9 | .8 | .2 | 11.6 | .5 | 240
Grapes |77.4 | 1.3 | 1.6 | 19.2 | .5 | 450
Huckleberries |81.9 | .6 | .6 | 16.6 | .3 | 345
Lemons |89.3 | 1.0 | .7 | 8.5 | .5 | 205
Muskmelons |89.5 | .6 | -- | 9.3 | .6 | 185
Nectarines |82.9 | .6 | -- | 15.9 | .6 | 305
Oranges |86.9 | .8 | .2 | 11.6 | .5 | 240
Peaches |89.4 | .7 | .1 | 9.4 | .4 | 190
Pears |84.4 | .6 | .5 | 14.1 | .4 | 295
Persimmons |66.1 | .8 | .7 | 31.5 | .9 | 630
Pineapple |89.3 | .4 | .3 | 9.7 | .3 | 200
Plums |78.4 | 1.0 | -- | 20.1 | .5 | 395
Pomegranates |76.8 | 1.5 | 1.6 | 19.5 | .6 | 460
Prunes, fresh |79.6 | .9 | -- | 18.9 | .6 | 370
Prunes, dried |22.3 | 2.1 | -- | 73.3 | 2.3 | 1,400
Raisins |14.6 | 2.6 | 3.3 | 76.1 | 3.4 | 1,605
Raspberries, red |85.8 | 1.0 | -- | 12.6 | .6 | 255
Raspberries, black|84.1 | 1.7 | 1.0 | 12.6 | .6 | 310
Rhubarb |94.4 | .6 | .7 | 3.6 | .7 | 105
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Strawberries |90.4 | 1.0 | .6 | 7.4 | .6 | 180
Watermelon |92.4 | .4 | .2 | 6.7 | .3 | 140
------------------+-----+-------+-----+-------+-------+-----------
18. The juice of fruits that contain very little sugar and a large
quantity of acid, such as the lemon, may be used for the seasoning of
food in much the same way that vinegar is used. It may also be diluted
with other liquids and used for a beverage. Then, again, various kinds
of fruit juices are subjected to a process of fermentation and, through
the production of another acid, are made into vinegar and wines. When
apples are treated in this way, the fermentation produces acetic acid
and, in addition, a certain amount of alcohol. It is on this principle
that the making of wines depends.
19. WATER IN FRUIT.--The water content of fresh fruits is very high,
reaching 94 per cent. in some varieties. Dried fruits, on the other
hand, contain much less water, their content being in some cases as low
as 15 to 20 per cent. It naturally follows that the fruits low in water
are high in food value, while those containing considerable water have
in their composition less of the material that adds food value. The high
percentage of water in fresh fruits, together with the acids they
contain, accounts for the fact that these fruits are so refreshing.
Fruits of this kind, in addition to having this refreshing quality, help
to provide the necessary liquid in the diet.
20. TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION AND FOOD VALUE OF FRUITS.--Just as fruits
vary in their composition, so do they vary in their food value. This
fact is clearly shown in Table I, which gives the percentage of food
substances contained in different fruits and the food value per pound,
in calories, that these fruits contain. As in the table showing the
composition and food value of vegetables given in Vegetables, Part 1,
the figures in this table are taken from Atwater's Table of American
Food Materials and refer to the edible part of the material. Reference
to Table I, as progress is made with the study of fruits and their
preparation, will be of much assistance in learning the place that
fruits occupy in the dietary.
FOOD VALUE OF FRUITS
21. EFFECT OF RIPENESS ON FRUITS.--There is a very marked difference
between ripe and green fruits as to their composition, flavor, texture,
palatability, and digestibility. Green fruits, containing more acid than
ripe ones, serve some purposes for which ripe fruits of the same variety
cannot be used so well. For instance, a very much better jelly can be
made from grapes that are not entirely ripe than from those which have
completely ripened. Green fruits contain less sugar than do ripe ones,
and so they are more sour to the taste. In some cases, the carbohydrate
found in green fruits is partly in the form of starch, which in the
process of development is changed to sugar. The cellulose of green
fruits, especially that distributed throughout the pulp of the fruit
itself, is usually tougher and harder than that which is found in the
same fruit after it has ripened.
22. DIGESTIBILITY OF FRUITS.--The ripeness and freshness of fruits
determine their digestibility to a great extent, but the peculiarities
of each person have much to do with this matter. Many times a particular
fruit will agree with almost every one but a few exceptional persons,
and, for no apparent reason except their own peculiarities of digestion,
it disagrees very badly with them. Abnormal conditions of the alimentary
tract, however, cannot be taken into consideration in a general
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discussion on the digestibility of foods, for it is a subject that
cannot be treated except from a dietetic standpoint. A safe rule to
follow when a fruit is found to disagree with a person is to omit it
from that person's diet. This need not prove a hardship, for the wide
range, or variety, of fruits makes it possible to find one or more kinds
that will agree with each person.
23. As has been explained, sugar is the food material from which the
nutritive value of fruits is obtained. With the exception of a few
predigested foods, manufactured in such a way that they can be digested
easily, this sugar is probably the most easily digested form of food
that can be obtained. This substance, being held in solution in the
fruit juices, which are encased in a cellulose covering, depends to some
extent for its digestion on the hardness of the cellulose. When this
covering is old and hard or green and tough, as the case may be, it is
difficult for the digestive juices to break through and attack the sugar
contained inside. As this difficulty is not encountered when fruit is
fresh and ripe, its freshness and ripeness become important factors in
digestibility. Cooking is also an important factor because it softens
the cellulose, but there are certain other changes made by cooking that
must be taken into consideration as well.
24. EFFECT OF COOKING ON FRUIT.--Cooking affects fruits in numerous
ways, depending on the condition of the fruit itself, the method used,
and the length of time the heat is applied. When fruits are cooked in
water or in a thin sirup, the cellulose becomes softened. On the other
hand, if they are cooked in a heavy sirup, as, for instance, in the
making of preserves, the cellulose becomes hardened and the fruit,
instead of breaking up, remains whole or nearly so and becomes tough
and hard in texture. The addition of quantities of sugar, as in the
latter case, besides helping to keep the fruit whole, increases its
food value.
25. Another change that usually takes place when fruit is cooked is in
its flavor. This change is due either to an increase in the acid
contained in the fruit or to a decrease in the amount of sugar. Some
authorities believe that cooking increases the amount of acid, while
others hold the view that, when fruit is cooked without removing the
skins and seeds, the acid contained in the seeds and skins and not
noticeable when the fruit is fresh, is released during the cooking. Such
is undoubtedly the case with plums. The change that is brought about in
the sugar by the cooking of fruits consists in changing the cane sugar
into levulose and dextrose, which are not so sweet. This change accounts
for the fact that some cooked fruits are less sweet than others, in
spite of the fact that the acid does not seem to be increased.
26. In addition to producing certain changes in fruit, cooking, if done
thoroughly, renders fruits sterile, as it does other foods; that is, it
kills any bacteria that the fruits may contain. Advantage of this fact
is taken when fruits are canned for future use. Although most persons
prefer raw fruit to that which is cooked, there are some who object to
eating this food raw, but who are not always certain as to the reason
for their objection. Like other raw foods, fruits in their fresh state
contain vitamines; that is, a substance that helps to keep the body in
a healthy, normal condition. These are found to some extent in cooked
fruits, but not in the same quantity as in raw ones; consequently, as
much use as possible should be made of raw fruits in the diet.
* * * * *
FRUITS AND THEIR PREPARATION AS FOOD
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PREPARING AND SERVING
27. REQUIRED SANITARY CONDITIONS.--Since large quantities of fruits are
eaten raw, it is necessary that they be handled in the most sanitary
manner if disease from their use be prevented. However, they are often
in an unsanitary condition when they reach the housewife. For instance,
they become contaminated from the soiled hands of the persons who handle
them, from the dirt deposited on them during their growth, from the
fertilizer that may be used on the soil, from flies and other insects
that may crawl over them, and from being stored, displayed, or sold in
surroundings where they may be exposed to the dirt from streets and
other contaminating sources. Because of the possibility of all these
sources of contamination, it is essential that fruits that are not to be
cooked be thoroughly washed before they are eaten. It is true that a
certain amount of flavor or food material may be lost from the washing,
but this is of little importance compared with the possibility of
preventing disease.
28. WASHING FRUITS.--The manner of washing fruits depends largely on the
nature of the fruit. Fruits that have a sticky surface, such as raisins,
figs, and dates, usually have to be washed in several waters. Hard
fruits, such as pears, apples, plums, etc., should be washed with
running water. Berries and softer fruits require more careful procedure,
it usually being advisable to pour them into a pan containing water and
then, after stirring them around in the water until all dirt is removed,
take them from the water, rather than pour the water from them. In any
event, all fruits eaten raw should be properly washed.
29. SERVING FRUITS.--While the serving of fruits is a simple matter, it
should be done in as dainty a way as possible, so as not to detract from
their natural attractiveness. If the skins are to remain on the fruits
while serving, a knife, preferably a fruit knife, should be served with
them, and nothing smaller than a salad plate should be used. The
carefully washed leaves of the fruit served make an attractive garnish.
For instance, large, perfect strawberries with the stems on, when heaped
on a plate garnished with strawberry leaves and served with a small dish
of powdered sugar, are always attractive. Likewise, a bunch of grapes
served on grape leaves never fails to attract.
A mixture of a number of fruits, such as peaches, pears, and plums, or,
in winter, oranges, bananas, and apples, piled in a large bowl and
passed after salad plates have been distributed, not only makes an
excellent dessert, but permits the persons served to take their choice.
Fresh berries, sliced peaches, bananas, oranges, etc. may be served in
sauce dishes, which should be placed on a service plate. They may be
passed or served from a bowl by the hostess. Canned or stewed fruits may
be served in the same way.
* * * * *
BERRIES
NATURE AND CARE
30. BERRIES are among the most perishable fruits and begin to come into
market early in the summer season. In most localities, the berry season
begins with strawberries and ends with blackberries. Because the
numerous varieties are somewhat juicy and soft and therefore extremely
perishable, they will not stand shipping and storage for long periods of
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time. The quality of berries depends much on the nature of the season,
as well as on the locality in which the berries are grown. If there is a
good supply of rain, the berries will be very moist, containing a large
amount of pulp in proportion to seeds and skins; but if the season is
very dry, the berries are likely to be less moist and consequently less
palatable. A general use of berries, and to almost every one the most
important, is the making of jams, jellies, and preserves.
In the preparation of berries for the table, they should be handled as
little as possible in order to prevent them from breaking up and losing
their shape. After being purchased, they should be kept where it is cool
until they are to be used. It is advisable not to wash them until just
before serving, as the extra handling usually bruises them and causes
them to spoil.
The different varieties of berries are here taken up in alphabetical
order so as to make the matter easy for reference. Those of which
extensive use is made contain one or more recipes that may be followed
without any hesitation. In a few instances, as in the case of currants,
recipes are not included, as the fruits are limited to only a few uses
and directions for these occur elsewhere.
BLACKBERRIES
31. BLACKBERRIES come late in the summer season. Good varieties of
cultivated blackberries, which are large in size and contain
comparatively few seeds, are the best for use. However, in some
localities, uncultivated blackberries grow in sufficient quantities to
be useful for food. Blackberries are used extensively for jam, as they
make an excellent kind that appeals to most persons. Their juice may be
used for jelly, but if the berries are to be utilized most successfully
in this way they must be picked before they are thoroughly ripe or some
fruit that will supply an additional quantity of pectin may have to be
combined with them. Fresh blackberries may be served for dessert with
sugar and cream. Otherwise, the use of this fruit in desserts is not
very extensive, except where the canned berries are used for pastry or
pie or are eaten for sauce or where the jam is used in making up various
dessert dishes.
Very little preparation is necessary in getting blackberries ready to
serve. They should simply be looked over carefully, so that all
imperfect ones and all foreign matter may be removed, and then washed in
cold water.
32. BLACKBERRY SPONGE.--One of the few desserts made from fresh
blackberries is that explained in the accompanying recipe and known as
blackberry sponge. This is very delicious, for the berries are combined
with cake and the combination then served with whipped cream.
BLACKBERRY SPONGE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 qt. blackberries
3/4 c. sugar
1 c. water
4 pieces plain loaf or sponge cake
Whipped cream
Heat half of the berries with the sugar and the water until they are
mushy. Then force the whole through a sieve. Cut the cake into cubes and
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put them into a bowl. Pour the juice and the blackberry pulp on the
cake. Press the mixture down with a spoon until it is quite solid and
set in the refrigerator or some other cold place to cool. Turn out of
the bowl on a large plate, garnish with the remaining berries, heap with
the whipped cream, and serve.
BLUEBERRIES
33. BLUEBERRIES, which are not cultivated, but grow in the wild state,
are a many-seeded berry, blue or bluish-black in color. Huckleberries,
although belonging to a different class, are commonly regarded as
blueberries by many persons. Berries of this kind occur in many
varieties. Some grow on low bushes close to the ground, others are found
on taller bushes, and still others grow on very tall bushes. Again, some
grow in dry ground in a mountainous region, others grow in a level,
sandy soil, and other varieties succeed better on swampy soil. Berries
of this class are not so perishable as most other berries, but in many
localities they cannot be purchased at all, for, as a rule, they are
used only in the immediate vicinity in which they grow.
Blueberries have small seeds and coarse, tough skins. They contain very
little acid, but are excellent for pies and sauce. However, they will
make jelly very well if there are a few partly ripe berries among them,
and their flavor is improved if some fruit containing acid is added to
them. To prepare them for use, whether they are to be served raw or
cooked, look them over carefully in order that all green or spoiled ones
are removed and then wash them well in cold water.
34. PRESSED BLUEBERRY PUDDING.--A delicious pudding can be made by
combining blueberries with slices of bread. The accompanying recipe
gives directions for pudding of this kind.
PRESSED BLUEBERRY PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)
1 qt. blueberries
1 c. water
1/2 c. sugar
8 slices bread
Whipped cream
Put the blueberries, water, and sugar into a saucepan and boil for a
few minutes. Put four of the slices of bread, which should be cut about
1/2 inch thick, in the bottom of a square pan. Pour one-half of the
blueberries and the juice over the bread, and put the four remaining
slices of bread on top of the berries. Pour the rest of the blueberries
and juice over the bread. Place another square pan over the top and
weight it down so as to press the pudding. Then set the pudding in the
refrigerator until it is cool. Cut into squares, remove from the pan,
and serve with sweetened whipped cream.
35. BLUEBERRY PUDDING.--A baking-powder-biscuit dough baked with
blueberries makes a very appetizing dessert. To serve with a pudding of
this kind, a cream or a hard sauce should be made.
BLUEBERRY PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
Baking-powder-biscuit dough
1 qt. blueberries
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1/2 c. sugar
Make a rather thin baking-powder-biscuit mixture. Spread a layer of this
in the bottom of a square pan and cover it with a layer of the
blueberries. Pour 1/4 cupful of the sugar over the berries and then
cover with another layer of the dough. Over this, pour the remainder of
the berries and sprinkle the rest of the sugar over all. Place in the
oven and bake for about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, cut into
squares, and serve with cream or hard sauce.
CRANBERRIES
36. CRANBERRIES grow wild in many localities, but most persons who use
them buy them in the market as a cultivated fruit. Their season begins
in the fall and lasts until early spring, and during this time they can
usually be obtained in the market. They contain considerable acid and
consequently require a great deal of sugar to make them sufficiently
sweet to be palatable. They are more often served as an accompaniment to
a dinner course, especially with turkey or other poultry, than eaten as
a sauce. At times they are used in the making of muffins, pudding, and
various kinds of pastry.
One of the advantages of cranberries is that they keep very well in the
raw state. However, before they are cooked, they should be looked over
carefully, freed of any stems, foreign material, and spoiled berries,
and then washed thoroughly in cold water.
37. CRANBERRY SAUCE.--One can hardly imagine a turkey dinner without
cranberry sauce as one of the accompaniments; but it may be served when
meats other than turkey are used. In fact, because of its tart flavor,
it forms a most appetizing addition to any meal.
CRANBERRY SAUCE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1-1/2 c. water
2 c. sugar
4 c. cranberries
Add the water to the cranberries and place over the fire to cook in a
closely covered kettle. As soon as the skins of the berries have
cracked, add the sugar. Cook slowly for a few minutes or until the sugar
is completely dissolved. Remove from the fire and cool before serving.
38. CRANBERRY JELLY.--If the cranberries are preferred without the
skins, cranberry jelly should be tried. When cool, this solidifies and
may be served in attractive ways.
CRANBERRY JELLY
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 c. water
1 qt. cranberries
2 c. sugar
Pour the water over the cranberries and cook them for 10 or 15 minutes.
Then mash them through a sieve or a colander with a wooden potato
masher. Add the sugar to the mashed cranberries. Return to the heat and
cook for 5 to 8 minutes longer. Turn into a mold and cool.
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RASPBERRIES
39. RASPBERRIES come in two general varieties, which are commonly known
as red and black. There are many species of each kind, and all of
them are much favored, as they are delicious fruit. As a raw fruit,
raspberries have their most satisfactory use, but they may be made into
several excellent desserts and they are also much used for canning and
preserving. They are a perishable fruit and so do not keep well. Because
of their softness, they have to be washed very carefully to prevent
them from breaking or becoming mushy.
40. RED-RASPBERRY WHIP.--No more dainty dessert can be made than
raspberry whip, which is explained in the accompanying recipe. Cake that
is not very rich, such as ladyfingers or sponge cake, makes a very good
accompaniment for this dessert.
RED-RASPBERRY WHIP
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 qt. raspberries
1 c. powdered sugar
2 egg whites
Put the raspberries, sugar, and egg whites into a bowl. Mash the berries
before starting to whip. Beat the mixture with an egg whip until it is
reduced to a pulpy mass and is stiff and fluffy. Pile lightly into a
bowl, chill, and serve with ladyfingers or sponge cake.
41. RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE.--Either black or red raspberries make a
delicious shortcake when combined with a cake or a biscuit mixture.
Directions for making such a shortcake are given in the
accompanying recipe.
RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 qt. raspberries
1 c. sugar
Biscuit or plain-cake dough
Mash or chop the berries, as preferred, and add the sugar to them. Bake
the biscuit or plain-cake dough in a single, thick layer, and when it
has been removed from the pan split it into halves with a sharp knife.
Spread half the berries between the two pieces of biscuit or cake and
the remaining half on top. Cut into pieces of the desired size and serve
with plain or whipped cream.
STRAWBERRIES
42. STRAWBERRIES are perhaps more popular than any other kind of berry.
They are reddish in color, have a somewhat acid flavor, and range in
size from 1/2 inch to 2 inches in diameter. Strawberries are much used
for jams and preserves; they may also be used for making a delicious
jelly, but as they lack pectin this ingredient must be supplied. These
berries are eaten fresh to a great extent, but are also much used for
pastry making and for various kinds of dessert; in fact, there is
practically no limit to the number of recipes that may be given for
strawberries. Before they are used in any way, they should be washed
thoroughly in cold water and then their hulls should be removed.
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43. STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE.--For strawberry shortcake, either a biscuit or
a plain-cake mixture may be used, some persons preferring the one and
other persons the other. This may be made in a large cake, and then
cut into pieces, or it may be made into individual cakes. Whichever
plan is followed, the cakes are split in the same way and the crushed
berries inserted between the halves. This dish may be made more
attractive in appearance if a few of the finest berries are saved and
used as a garniture.
STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 qt. strawberries
1 c. sugar
Biscuit or plain cake dough
Mash or chop the berries, add the sugar to them, and let them stand
until the sugar has dissolved. Bake the biscuit or plain-cake dough in a
single thick layer or, if desired, bake it in individual cakes, cutting
the biscuit dough with a cookie cutter and putting the cake mixture in
muffin pans. Remove from the pan, cut in two with a sharp knife, and
spread half of the berries over the lower piece. Set the upper piece on
the berries. In the case of the large cake, sprinkle powdered sugar over
the top and then on this arrange a number of the largest and finest of
the berries, as Fig. 1 shows, as a garniture. Cut in pieces of the
desired size and serve with or without either plain or whipped cream. In
preparing the individual cakes, spread a spoonful or two of the crushed
berries over the top, as Fig. 2 shows, and serve with whipped cream.
44. STRAWBERRY WHIP.--Strawberries may be used instead of raspberries in
the recipe for red-raspberry whip. When prepared in this way and served
with fresh cake, strawberries make a very appetizing dessert.
45. OTHER STRAWBERRY DESSERTS.--If it is desired to serve strawberries
just with sugar, they can be made attractive with very little effort.
Garnish a plate with some of the strawberry leaves and on them place a
few fine large strawberries that have been washed but have not had the
hulls removed. Serve a small dish of powdered sugar with the
strawberries, so that they may be dipped into the sugar and eaten by
holding the hull of the berry in the fingers. Strawberries crushed with
sugar and served with blanc mange or custard also make a very
delicious dessert.
MISCELLANEOUS BERRIES
46. CURRANTS come in three varieties--red, white, and black. They are
not often eaten fresh, but are generally utilized for making jellies,
jams, and preserves, or for pastry and pies. When they are to be used
for jelly, it is not necessary to pick them from the stems, as they may
be washed and cooked on their stems. Some varieties of currants are
dried and these are used extensively in the making of cakes, cookies,
etc. The usefulness of this fruit as a food is not so great as many
others. No recipes are given for it because of its little use in the
fresh form.
47. GOOSEBERRIES, like currants, are somewhat limited in their variety
of uses, being seldom used except for jelly, preserves, and pies. Before
gooseberries are ripe they are light green in color and rather sour in
taste, but as they ripen the amount of acid they contain decreases, so
that they become sweet in flavor and change to brownish-purple. Green
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gooseberries are often canned for pies, and when in this state or when
partly ripe they are also made up into many kinds of preserves and
jelly. In their preparation for these uses, both the stems and the
blossom ends should be removed. As a rule, berries of this kind keep
very well and stand considerable handling because their outside skin is
very tough.
48. LOGANBERRIES are a fruit produced by crossing a variety of red
raspberries with a species of blackberry. They are not very common, but
are an excellent berry and are well liked by those who can obtain them.
They may be used for any purpose for which either raspberries or
blackberries are used. Therefore, in the recipes given for these two
kinds of berries, loganberries may be substituted whenever they can
be obtained.
* * * * *
NON-TROPICAL FRUITS
NATURE AND USE
49. Besides the berries that have just been described, there are a large
number of fruits that are grown in temperate climates and are therefore
regarded as NON-TROPICAL FRUITS. Extensive use is made of these fruits
in the regions in which they are grown or in places that are within easy
shipping distances of the source of supply. All of them have a
protective covering, or skin, and consequently keep for long periods of
time if they are not too ripe when picked. Those which contain the
highest percentage of water are the most perishable.
APPLES
50. APPLES, of which there are at least a thousand varieties, are
probably the best known of the non-tropical fruits. Some apples mature
early in the summer, while others do not ripen until late in the fall.
The late apples can be kept during the entire winter if they are
properly stored, but the summer varieties must generally be used
immediately, as they do not have good keeping qualities. In each
locality in which apples are grown, a few varieties seem to be
especially popular and are used to the exclusion of others. Some apples
are good for one purpose and some for another. For instance, many that
are excellent if eaten raw are not good for cooking purposes, and others
that cook well are not suitable for eating. It is therefore a good idea
for the housewife to become familiar with the varieties of apples raised
in her community and to learn the use to which each kind can be put to
advantage.
Apples of all kinds may be prepared in a large variety of ways. They are
much used for sauce, pie, and numerous desserts, as well as for jelly
and, with various fruit mixtures, for jams and preserves. The juice of
apples, which upon being extracted is known as cider, is used in a
number of ways, but its most important use is in the manufacture
of vinegar.
51. APPLE SAUCE.--When apple sauce is to be made, apples that are
somewhat sour and that will cook soft easily should be selected. This is
a dessert that can be made all during the winter when it is often
difficult to obtain other fruits fresh. It is usually served when roast
pork is the main dish of a meal, but is just as appetizing when served
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with other foods.
APPLE SAUCE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
10 medium-sized apples
1/2 c. water
1 c. sugar
Wash the apples, cut them in quarters, remove the cores, and, if
desired, peel them. Put them into a saucepan, add the water, and allow
them to cook until they are very soft. If the apples are inclined to be
dry, a little more water may be necessary. When done, force them through
a colander or a sieve, add the sugar to the pulp, and return to the
stove. Cook until the sugar is completely dissolved and, if necessary,
until the apple sauce is slightly thickened, stirring frequently to
prevent scorching. Remove from the heat, and season with lemon peel cut
fine, cinnamon, or nutmeg.
If there are apples in supply that do not cook well for apple sauce,
they may be peeled, quartered, and cored, and cooked with the sugar and
water. Then, instead of being forced through a sieve, they should be
allowed to remain in pieces in the sirup.
52. PORCUPINE APPLES.--A pleasing change in the way of an apple dessert
may be had by making porcupine apples.
PORCUPINE APPLES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
6 large apples
1 c. sugar
1 c. water
2 doz. almonds
Currant jelly
Wash, core, and pare the apples. Make a sirup by bringing the sugar and
water to the boiling point. Put the apples into the sirup, cook on one
side for several minutes, and then turn and cook on the other side. Do
not allow the apples to cook completely in the sirup, but when they are
still hard remove them and continue to boil the sirup down. Set the
apples in a shallow pan, stick the almonds, which should be blanched,
into them so that they will project like porcupine quills, sprinkle them
with sugar, and bake in the oven until they are soft and the almonds
slightly brown. Remove from the oven, fill the center of each with
currant jelly, pour the juice over them, and serve.
53. BAKED APPLES.--Nothing is more palatable than baked apples if a
juicy, sour variety can be secured.
BAKED APPLES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
6 medium-sized sour apples
1/2 c. brown sugar
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1 Tb. butter
1/2 c. water
Wash and core the apples, place them in a baking dish, and fill the
centers with the brown sugar mixed with the cinnamon. Put a small piece
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of butter on top of each apple, pour the water in the bottom of the pan,
set in the oven, and bake until the apples are soft. Baste frequently
with the juice that collects in the bottom of the pan. Serve hot or
cold, as desired.
Apples baked in this way may be improved in flavor by serving grape
juice over them. Heat the grape juice, and then, if the apples are to be
served hot, pour about 2 tablespoonfuls over each apple just before
serving. In case the apples are to be served cold, pour the hot grape
juice over them and then allow them to cool.
54. MAPLE APPLES.--Apples cooked in maple sirup have a very pleasing
flavor. The sirup that remains in the pan is poured over the apples when
they are served.
MAPLE APPLES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
6 medium-sized apples
1 c. maple sirup
Wash, peel, and core the apples. Bring the maple sirup to the boiling
point in a saucepan. Drop the apples into the hot sirup, cook first on
one side, and then turn and cook on the other. As soon as they become
soft, remove from the sirup, pour the sirup over them, and serve.
55. STEAMED APPLES.--If it is desired to retain the color in apples that
have red skins, they should be steamed instead of baked, for the color
is lost in baking. Prepare apples that are to be steamed by washing them
and removing the cores. Place the apples in a pan with a perforated
bottom, put this over a pan of boiling water, cover closely, and steam
until they are soft. Serve in any desired way. They will be found to be
delicious in flavor and attractive in appearance.
APRICOTS
56. APRICOTS, in appearance, are a cross between peaches and plums. They
are grown extensively in the western part of the United States, but they
can be grown in any climate where peaches and plums are raised. As they
contain considerable acid, they require a large quantity of sugar when
they are cooked with their skins and seeds. They are used most
frequently for canning, but they make excellent marmalades and jams.
They are also dried in large quantities and, in this form, make
delicious desserts.
57. APRICOT SOUFFLE.--No more attractive as well as delicious dessert
can be prepared than apricot souffle. The apricots are just tart enough
to give it a very pleasing flavor.
APRICOT SOUFFLE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 Tb. butter
4 Tb. flour
1/3 c. sugar
Pinch of salt
1 c. scalded milk
3 eggs
1/2 tsp. vanilla
1 can apricots
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Melt the butter, add the flour, sugar, and salt, and stir in the hot
milk. Bring this mixture to the boiling point. Separate the yolks and
whites of the eggs. Beat the yolks until they are thick and
lemon-colored, and then pour the hot mixture over them, stirring
constantly to prevent the eggs from curding. Beat the whites until they
are stiff, fold them into the mixture, and add the vanilla. Place the
apricots without juice in a layer on the bottom of the buttered baking
dish, pour the mixture over them, and bake for 45 to 60 minutes in a hot
oven, when it should be baked through and slightly brown on top and
should appear as in Fig. 3. Remove from the oven and serve with the
sirup from the apricots. Whipped cream may also be added if desired.
CHERRIES
58. CHERRIES come in numerous varieties, some of which are sweet and
others sour. The method of using them in cookery depends largely on the
kind of cherry that is to be used. Any of the varieties may be canned
with varying quantities of sugar and then used for sauce. They also make
excellent preserves, especially the sour varieties. However, they do not
contain pectin in sufficient quantity for jelly, so that when cherry
jelly is desired, other fruit or material containing pectin must be used
with the cherries. When purchased in the market, cherries usually have
their stems on. They should be washed before the stems are removed. The
seeds may be taken out by hand or by means of cherry seeders made
especially for this purpose.
59. CHERRY FRITTERS.--Something different in the way of dessert can be
had by making cherry fritters according to the accompanying recipe.
CHERRY FRITTERS
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 c. flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
2 Tb. sugar
1/2 c. milk
1 egg
2 Tb. butter
1/2 c. cherries cut into halves
Mix and sift the dry ingredients, add the milk and egg, and beat all
together well. Add the melted butter and fold in the cherries. Drop by
spoonfuls into hot fat and fry until brown. Remove from the fat,
sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve.
GRAPES
60. GRAPES are a fruit extensively cultivated both for eating and for
the making of wines and raisins. Although found in many varieties, they
naturally divide themselves into two general classes: those which retain
their skins, such as the Malaga, Tokay, Muscat, Cornichon, Emperor,
etc., and those which slip out of their skins easily, such as the
Concord, Niagara, Delaware, Catawba, etc.
Grapes are much used as a fresh fruit. When they are to be used in this
way, the bunches should be put into a colander and washed thoroughly by
running cold water over them. Then all the imperfect ones should be
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removed and the grapes kept cool until they are to be served. Clean
grape leaves make an attractive garnish for the individual plates or the
serving dish on which the grapes are placed. Grapes are also used
extensively for making jelly and grape juice, a beverage that is
well liked.
61. It will be found that through proper care grapes can be kept a long
time in the fall after they are removed from the vines, provided perfect
bunches are obtained and they are picked before they have become too
ripe. To preserve such grapes, dip the ends of the stems into melted
sealing wax in order to prevent the evaporation of moisture through the
stems. Then, in a cool, dry place, lay the bunches out on racks in a
single layer, taking care not to crush nor bruise them.
62. UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE WITH WATER.--Grape juice may be made either
with or without water. That in which water is used in the making usually
requires no diluting when it is served as a beverage. Concord grapes are
perhaps used more commonly for the making of grape juice than any other
variety, but other kinds, particularly Catawbas and Niagaras, may be
used as well.
UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE WITH WATER
12 qt. grapes
2 qt. water
4 lb. sugar
Wash the grapes and remove them from the stems. Put them with the water
into a preserving kettle, and heat gradually until the skins of the
grapes burst. Dip off as much juice as possible, and put it into a jelly
bag. Continue to heat and dip off the juice in this way until the pulp
is comparatively dry. Then add a little more water to the pulp and put
it in the bag to drip. When all the juice has dripped through the bag,
pour it back into the preserving kettle, add the sugar, and bring to the
boiling point. Stir frequently, so that the sugar will be well
dissolved. Pour into jars or bottles, seal, and sterilize by cooking for
about 5 minutes in hot water that nearly covers the bottles. Any large
receptacle that will hold sufficient water may be used as a sterilizer.
63. UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE WITHOUT WATER.--When grape juice is made
without water, it is both thick and rich. Consequently, it should
usually be diluted with water when it is served as a beverage.
UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE WITHOUT WATER
12 qt. grapes
3 lb. sugar
Wash the grapes, remove them from the stems, and put them into a
preserving kettle. Heat very slowly and mash with a spoon, so that
enough juice will be pressed out and thus prevent the grapes from
scorching. Remove the juice as it forms and put it into a jelly bag.
When all of it has been taken from the grapes and strained through the
jelly bag, strain the pulp and put all the juice into a preserving
kettle, add the sugar, and bring to the boiling point. Pour into bottles
or jars, seal, and sterilize in a water bath for about 5 minutes.
PEACHES
64. PEACHES may be divided into two general classes: those having a
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yellow skin and those having a white skin. In each of these classes are
found both clingstone and freestone peaches; that is, peaches whose
pulp adheres tightly to the seed, or stone, and those in which the pulp
can be separated easily from the stone. When peaches are purchased for
canning or for any use in which it is necessary to remove the seeds,
freestones should be selected. Clingstones may be used when the stones
are allowed to remain in the fruit, as in pickled peaches, and for jams,
preserves, or butters, in which small pieces may be used or the entire
peach mashed. Whether to select yellow or white peaches, however, is
merely a matter of taste, as some persons prefer one kind and some
the other.
65. Peaches are not satisfactory for jelly making, because they do not
contain pectin. However, the juice of peaches makes a very good sirup if
it is sweetened and cooked until it is thick. Such sirup is really just
as delicious as maple sirup with griddle cakes. Peaches are used to a
large extent for canning and are also made into preserves, jams, and
butters. In addition, they are much used without cooking, for they are
favored by most persons. When they are to be served whole, they should
be washed and then wiped with a damp cloth to remove the fuzz. The skins
may be removed by blanching the peaches in boiling water or peeling them
with a sharp knife. If they are then sliced or cut in any desirable way
and served with cream and sugar, they make a delicious dessert.
66. STEWED PEACHES.--Fresh stewed peaches make a very desirable dessert
to serve with simple cake or cookies. Children may very readily eat such
dessert without danger of digestive disturbances. Adding a tablespoonful
of butter to the hot stewed peaches and then serving them over freshly
made toast makes a delightful breakfast dish. The cooked peaches may
also be run through a sieve, reheated with a little flour or corn starch
to thicken them slightly, and then served hot on buttered toast.
STEWED PEACHES
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)
1-1/2 qt. peaches
1 lb. sugar
1 c. water
Peel the peaches, cut into halves, and remove the seeds. Put the sugar
and water over the fire to cook in a saucepan and bring to a rapid boil.
Add the peaches and cook until they may be easily pierced with a fork.
67. BAKED PEACHES.--When peaches are to be baked, select large firm
ones. Wash them thoroughly and cut them into halves, removing the
stones. Place the peaches in a shallow pan, fill the cavities with
sugar, and dot the top of each half with butter. Set in the oven and
bake until the peaches become soft. Serve hot or cold, either with or
without cream, as desired.
PEARS
68. PEARS, like apples, come in summer and winter varieties. The summer
varieties must be utilized during the summer and early fall or must be
canned at this time to preserve them for future use. Winter pears,
however, may be stored, for they keep like apples. A number of the small
varieties of pears are much used for pickling. Pears are most valuable
when they are canned and used for sauce. They cannot be used for jelly,
because they do not contain sufficient acid nor pectin. The juice from
canned pears, because of its mild flavor, is often found to be valuable
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in the feeding of invalids or persons who have gastric troubles. It is
usually advisable to pick pears before they are entirely ripe, for then
they may be kept for a considerable length of time and will
ripen slowly.
69. BAKED PEARS.--Although pears are rather mild in flavor, they are
delicious when baked if lemon is added. Wash thoroughly pears that are
to be baked, cut them into halves, and remove the cores. Place them in a
shallow pan, fill the holes in the center with sugar, dot with butter,
and place a thin slice of lemon over each piece. Pour a few spoonfuls of
water into the pan, set in the oven, and bake until the pears can be
easily pierced with a fork. Remove from the oven and serve hot or cold.
PLUMS
70. PLUMS are among the very strong acid fruits. Some varieties of them
seem to be more tart after they are cooked than before, but, as already
explained, this condition is due to the fact that the acid contained in
the skin and around the seeds is liberated during the cooking. This
fruit, of which there are numerous varieties, is generally used for
canning, preserving, etc. It does not make jelly successfully in all
cases unless some material containing pectin is added. Very firm plums
may have the skins removed by blanching if it seems advisable to
take them off.
71. STEWED PLUMS.--Because of the many varieties of plums with their
varying degrees of acidity, it is difficult to make a recipe with a
quantity of sugar that will suit all kinds. The recipe given here is
suitable for medium sour plums, such as egg plums and the common red and
yellow varieties. Damsons and green gages will probably require more
sugar, while prune plums may require less.
STEWED PLUMS
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)
1-1/2 qt. plums
1 lb. sugar
3/4 c. water
Wash the plums and prick each one two or three times with a fork. Bring
the sugar and water to the boiling point and, when rapidly boiling, add
the plums. Cook until they are tender, remove from the fire, cool,
and serve.
QUINCES
72. QUINCES are one of the non-perishable fruits. They mature late in
the fall and may be kept during the winter in much the same way as
apples. While quinces are not used so extensively as most other fruits,
there are many uses to which they may be put and much can be done with a
small quantity. For instance, various kinds of preserves and marmalades
may be made entirely of quinces or of a combination of quinces and some
other fruit. They also make excellent jelly. As their flavor is very
strong, a small quantity of quince pulp used with apples or some other
fruit will give the typical flavor of quinces. When combined with sweet
apples, they make a very delicious sauce.
The skin of quinces is covered with a thick fuzz, which can be removed
by wiping the fruit with a damp cloth. A point that should be remembered
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about quinces is that they are extremely hard and require long cooking
to make them tender and palatable.
73. STEWED QUINCES AND APPLES.--The combination of quinces and apples is
very delicious. Sweet apples, which are difficult to use as a cooked
fruit because of a lack of flavor, may be combined very satisfactorily
with quinces, for the quinces impart a certain amount of their strong
flavor to the bland apples and thus the flavor of both is improved.
STEWED QUINCES AND APPLES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 qt. sweet apples
1 pt. quinces
1 lb. sugar
1 c. water
Wash, peel, core, and quarter the fruit. Add the sugar to the water and
place over the fire until it conies to a rapid boil. Then add the
quinces and cook until they are partly softened. Add the sweet apples
and continue the cooking until both are tender. Remove from the fire,
cool, and serve.
RHUBARB
74. RHUBARB is in reality not a fruit, but it is always considered as
such because it is cooked with sugar and served as a fruit. It has the
advantage of coming early in the spring before there are many fruits in
the market. As it contains a large quantity of oxalic acid, it is very
sour and must be cooked with considerable sugar to become palatable, the
addition of which makes the food value of cooked rhubarb very high.
Rhubarb is much used for pies and is frequently canned for sauce. It is
also used as a cheap filler with a more expensive fruit in the making of
marmalades, conserves, and jams.
The stems of some varieties of rhubarb are characterized by a great deal
of red color, while others are entirely green. The red rhubarb makes a
more attractive dish when it is cooked and served than the green, but it
has no better flavor. The outside of the stem has a skin that may be
removed by catching hold of it at one end with a knife and stripping it
off the remainder of the stem. It is not necessary to remove the skin
from young and tender rhubarb, but it is often an advantage to remove it
from rhubarb that is old. It should be remembered that the stems of
rhubarb contain considerable water and so require very little liquid in
their cooking.
75. STEWED RHUBARB.--Two methods of stewing rhubarb are in practice, the
one to select depending on the way it is preferred. In one method, which
keeps the pieces whole, the sugar and water are brought to the boiling
point before the rhubarb is added, while in the other, the rhubarb is
cooked with water until it is soft and the sugar then added.
STEWED RHUBARB
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 c. sugar
1/2 c. water
1 qt. cut rhubarb
Mix the sugar and water in a saucepan and bring to the boiling point.
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Wash the stems of the rhubarb and cut into inch lengths. Add the rhubarb
to the sirup and cook until it is tender enough to be pierced with a
fork. If desired, a flavoring of lemon peel may be added. Turn into a
dish, allow to cool, and serve.
If the other method is preferred, cook the rhubarb with the water until
it is soft and then add the sugar.
* * * * *
CITRUS FRUITS
CHARACTERISTICS
76. Fruits that contain citric acid are grouped together and are known
as CITRUS FRUITS. All of these are similar in structure, although they
differ in size.
All varieties of these fruits are tropical or semitropical and are
shipped to the North in boxes that contain various numbers, the number
that can be packed in a box depending on the size of the fruit. The
south, southeastern, and western parts of the United States supply
practically all of these fruits that are found in the northern markets.
They stand storage well and keep for long periods of time if they are
packed before they are too ripe. These characteristics, together with
the fact that they are at their prime at different times in different
localities, make it possible to market such fruits during the entire
year, although they are much better at certain seasons than at others.
77. The majority of citrus fruits contain a fair amount of sugar and a
great deal of water; consequently, they are very juicy and refreshing. A
few of them, however, such as lemons and limes, contain very little
sugar and considerable acid and are therefore extremely sour. In the use
of such varieties, sugar must be added to make them palatable.
The greatest use made of citrus fruits is that of serving them raw.
However, they are also used in the making of marmalades, conserves, and
such confections as candied fruits. Then, too, the juice of a number of
them, such as lemons, oranges, and limes, makes very refreshing
beverages, so these varieties are much used for this purpose.
GRAPEFRUIT
78. Grapefruit, also known as shaddock, is a large, pale-yellow fruit
belonging to the citrus group. One variety, known as the pomelo, is
the kind that is commonly found in the market. It is slightly flattened
on both the blossom and stem ends.
Grapefruit has a typical flavor and a slightly bitter taste and contains
neither a great deal of sugar nor a large amount of acid. Because of its
refreshing, somewhat acid pulp and juice, it is highly prized as a fruit
to be eaten at breakfast or as an appetizer for a fruit cocktail. It is
also much used in the making of fruit salads.
79. SELECTION OF GRAPEFRUIT.--Grapefruit should be selected with care in
order that fruit of good quality may be obtained. Some persons think
that to be good grapefruit should be large, but it should be remembered
that size is not the factor by which to judge the quality. The fruit
should be heavy for its size and the skin should be fine-grained and
even. Coarse-grained skin, as a rule, is thick and indicates that the
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pulp is rather pithy and without juice.
80. PREPARATION OF GRAPEFRUIT.--Different ways of serving grapefruit are
in practice, and it is well that these be understood. This is generally
considered a rather difficult fruit to eat, but if care is exercised in
its preparation for the table it can be eaten with comfort. For
preparing grapefruit, a narrow, sharp-bladed paring knife may be used.
As is well known, a grapefruit is always cut apart half way between the
stem and the blossom ends and a half served to each person.
[Illustration: FIG. 6]
81. One method of preparing grapefruit consists in cutting the skin in
such a way that the seeds can be taken out and the pulp then easily
removed with a spoon. To prepare it in this way, cut the grapefruit into
halves, and then, with a sharp knife, cut around the pithy core in the
center, cutting off the smallest possible end of each of the sections.
With this done, remove the seeds, which will be found firmly lodged near
the core and which can be readily pushed out with the point of the
knife. Then cut down each side of the skin between the sections so as
to separate the pulp from the skin. Around the edge next to the outside
skin, cut the pulp in each section with a single jab of the knife,
taking care not to cut the skin between the sections. The entire pulp of
each section, which will be found to be loose on both sides and ends if
the cutting is correctly done, can then be readily removed with a spoon.
82. In another method of preparing this fruit for the table, all the
skin inside of the fruit is removed and nothing but the pulp is left.
This method requires a little more time and care than the previous one,
but the result justifies the effort. After cutting the grapefruit into
halves, remove the seeds with a sharp knife. Then, with the same knife,
cut the grapefruit from the skin all the way around the edge, also, cut
down each side of the skin between the sections, so as to separate the
pulp from the skin. With the pulp loosened, insert a pair of scissors
along the outside edge and make a slanting cut toward the core.
Then cut the core loose from the outside skin. Repeat this operation
for each section. If the cutting has been properly done, the core and
skin enclosing the sections may be lifted out of the grapefruit and
will then be in the form of a many-pointed star. As only the pulp
remains in the outside skin, the grapefruit can be eaten without
difficulty.
83. SERVING GRAPEFRUIT.--When grapefruit has been properly ripened, it
is rather sweet, so that many persons prefer it without sugar; but when
sugar is desired, the fruit is very much more delicious if it is
prepared some time before it is to be served, the sugar added to it, and
the fruit placed in a cool place. If this is done in the evening and the
grapefruit is served for breakfast, a large amount of very delicious
juice will have collected through the night. At any rate, grapefruit is
best if it is sweetened long enough before it is served to give the
sugar a chance to penetrate.
LEMONS
84. LEMONS are a citrus fruit raised in tropical regions. They are
shipped to other climates in cases that hold from 180 to 540, depending
on the size of the lemons, 300 to the case being a medium and commonly
used size. Their quality is judged like that of grapefruit; that is, by
their weight, the texture of their skin, and their general color
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and shape.
Lemons contain very little sugar, but they are characterized by a large
amount of acid. Because of this fact, their juice is used to season
foods in much the same way as vinegar is used. In fact, their chief
uses are in making desserts and in seasoning such foods as custards,
pudding sauces, etc. However, their juice is also much used in the
making of beverages, such as lemonade and fruit punch.
ORANGES
85. ORANGES belong to the group of citrus fruits, but they differ from
both lemons and grapefruit in that they contain more sugar and less
acid. Two kinds of oranges supply the demands for this fruit, Florida
and California oranges. Florida oranges have a skin more the color of
lemons and grapefruit and contain seeds, but they are considered to be
the finest both as to flavor and quality. California oranges, which
have a bright-yellow or orange skin, are seedless and are known as
navel oranges. As soon as the Florida season ends, the California
season begins; consequently, the market season for this fruit is a
lengthy one. The russet of oranges is caused by the bite of an insect on
the skin. To be shipped, oranges are packed in cases that will contain
from 48 to 400 to the case.
Probably no citrus fruit is used so extensively as oranges. Because of
their refreshing subacid flavor, they are much eaten in their fresh
state, both alone and in combination with other foods in numerous salads
and desserts.
86. PREPARATION OF ORANGES.--To prepare them in the way shown at the
left, cut the orange into two parts, cutting half way between the stem
and blossom ends, and loosen the pulp in each half in the manner
explained in Art. 81 for the preparation of grapefruit. Then the pulp
may be eaten from the orange with a spoon.
If an orange is to be eaten in sections, the skin may be cut from the
stem to the blossom end about six times and then loosened from the one
end and turned in toward the orange in the manner shown in the central
figure of the group. It will then be easy to remove the skin.
Sometimes it is desired to serve sliced oranges, as shown at the right.
To prepare oranges in this way, remove the skin from the orange, cut it
in halves lengthwise, and then slice it in thin slices crosswise.
Arrange the slices on a plate and serve as desired.
87. When oranges are to be used for salads, or for any purpose in which
merely the pulp is desired, as, for instance, orange custard, all the
skin between the sections must be removed, as it makes any warm mixture
bitter. To secure the pulp without any of the skin, first peel the
orange in the same way an apple is peeled, beginning at one end and
peeling around and around deeply enough to remove with the skin all the
white pithy material under it. If the knife is a sharp one and the
peeling is carefully done, there will be little waste of the pulp. When
the orange is entirely peeled, cut each section from the skin by
passing the knife as closely as possible between the pulp and the skin.
The sections thus obtained may be used whole or cut into pieces of any
desired size.
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MISCELLANEOUS CITRUS FRUITS
88. In addition to grapefruit, lemons, and oranges, the three principal
varieties of citrus fruits, this group also includes kumquats, limes,
mandarins, and tangerines. These fruits are not of so much importance in
the diet as the other varieties, but when they are used as foods they
have a food value about equal to that of apples the same in size. They
are not in such common use as the citrus fruits already discussed, but
it is well for every housewife to know what they are and to what use
they can be put.
89. KUMQUATS are an acid fruit resembling oranges in color but being
about the size and shape of small plums. They are used principally for
the making of marmalades and jams, and in this use both the skin and the
pulp are included.
90. LIMES look like small lemons. They are very sour and do not contain
sugar in any quantity. They are valued chiefly for their juice, which is
utilized in the making of drinks, confections, etc.
91. MANDARINS and TANGERINES are really varieties of oranges and are
used in much the same way. They have a very sweet flavor. Their skin
does not cling so closely as the skin of oranges. For this reason they
are known as glove oranges and are very easily peeled.
* * * * *
TROPICAL FRUITS
VARIETIES
92. Besides the citrus fruits, which may also be regarded as tropical
fruits because they grow in tropical regions, there are a number of
other fruits that may be conveniently grouped under the heading Tropical
Fruits. The best known of these are bananas and pineapples, but numerous
others, such as avocados, guavas, nectarines, pomegranates, tamarinds,
and mangoes, are also raised in the tropical countries and should be
included in this class. The majority of these fruits stand shipment
well, but if they are to be shipped to far distant places they must be
picked before they become too ripe and must be packed well. As bananas
and pineapples are used more extensively than the other tropical fruits,
they are discussed here in greater detail; however, enough information
is given about the others to enable the housewife to become familiar
with them.
BANANAS
93. BANANAS are a tropical fruit that have become very popular with the
people in the North. As they are usually picked and shipped green and
then ripened by a process of heating when they are ready to be put on
the market, it is possible to obtain them in a very good condition. It
should be remembered, however, that they are not ripe enough to eat
until all the green color has left the skin. The stem of the bunch may
be green, but the bananas themselves should be perfectly yellow. Black
spots, which are sometimes found on the skins, indicate overripeness or
bruises. When the spots come from overripeness, however, they do not
injure the quality of the fruit, unless there are a great many of them;
in fact, many persons consider that bananas are better when the skins
are black than at any other time.
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94. Just under the skin of the banana is some pithy material that clings
to the outside of the fruit and that has a pungent, disagreeable taste.
This objectionable taste may be done away with by scraping the surface
of the banana slightly after the skin is removed.
The strong, typical flavor that characterizes bananas is due to the
volatile oil they contain. It is this oil that causes bananas to
disagree with some persons. The common yellow variety has a milder
flavor than red bananas and certain other kinds and, consequently, is
more popular. If the oil of bananas does not prove irritating, much use
should be made of this fruit, because its food value is high, being
about double that of apples and oranges.
95. Bananas are eaten raw more often than in any other way, but many
persons find cooked bananas very agreeable. Then, too, it is sometimes
claimed that cooked bananas are more digestible than raw ones because of
the starch that bananas contain. However, this argument may be
discounted, for a well-ripened banana contains such a small quantity of
starch that no consideration need be given to it.
96. BAKED BANANAS.--If bananas are to be cooked, they can be made very
appetizing by baking them with a sirup made of vinegar, sugar, and
butter. When prepared in this way, they should be cut in two
lengthwise, and then baked in a shallow pan.
BAKED BANANAS
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
6 bananas
2 Tb. butter
1/3 c. sugar
3 Tb. vinegar
Remove the skins from the bananas, scrape the surface as in Fig. 14, and
cut them in half lengthwise. Arrange the halves in a shallow pan. Melt
the butter and mix it with the sugar and the vinegar. Pour a spoonful of
the mixture over each banana and then set the pan in the oven. Bake in a
slow oven for about 20 minutes, basting frequently with the remainder of
the sirup during the baking. Remove from the oven and serve hot.
97. Banana Fritters.--Delicious fritters can be made with bananas as a
foundation. The accompanying recipe, if carefully followed, will result
in a dish that will be appetizing, especially to those who are fond of
this fruit.
BANANA FRITTERS
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
4 bananas
1 Tb. lemon juice
1/2 c. flour
2 Tb. sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
1/3 c. milk
1 egg
1 Tb. butter, melted
Powdered sugar
Remove the skins from the bananas, scrape them, and cut them once
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lengthwise and once crosswise. Sprinkle the pieces with the lemon juice.
Make a batter by mixing and sifting the flour, sugar, and salt. Stir in
the milk gradually, and add the yolk of the beaten egg and the melted
butter. Lastly, fold in the beaten egg white. Sprinkle the bananas with
powdered sugar, dip them into the batter, and fry in deep fat until
brown. Sprinkle again with powdered sugar and serve.
PINEAPPLES
98. Pineapples are grown in the southern part of the United States, on
the islands off the southeastern coast, and in Hawaii. They vary in size
according to the age of the plants. It requires from 18 to 20 months for
the fruit to develop, and the plants yield only four or five crops. Much
of this fruit is canned where it is grown, but as it is covered with a
heavy skin it will tolerate shipping long distances very well. It is
shipped to the market in cases that contain from 24 to 48 pineapples to
the case. Usually, for a few weeks during the summer, the price of fresh
pineapples is reasonable enough to warrant canning them.
99. The food value of pineapples is slightly lower than that of oranges
and apples. However, pineapples have a great deal of flavor, and for
this reason they are very valuable in the making of desserts, preserves,
marmalades, and beverages of various kinds. It is said that the
combination of pineapple and lemon will flavor a greater amount of food
than any other fruit combined. Another characteristic of pineapples is
that they contain a ferment that acts upon protein material and
therefore is sometimes thought to aid considerably in the digestion of
food. The probabilities are that this ferment really produces very
little action in the stomach, but its effect upon protein material can
readily be observed by attempting to use raw pineapple in the making of
a gelatine dessert. If the pineapple is put in raw, the gelatine will
not solidify; but if the pineapple is heated sufficiently to kill this
ferment, it has no effect whatsoever upon the gelatine.
100. SELECTING PINEAPPLES.--When pineapples are to be selected, care
should be exercised to see that they are ripe. The most certain way of
determining this fact is to pull out the center leaves of each pineapple
that is chosen. Grasp the pineapple with one hand and then with the
other pull out, one at a time, several of the center leaves of the tuft
at the top. If the fruit is ripe a sharp jerk will usually remove each
leaf readily, but the harder the leaves pull, the greener the pineapple
is.
An overripe pineapple is just as unsatisfactory as one that is not ripe
enough. When a pineapple becomes too ripe, rotten spots begin to develop
around the base. Such spots can be easily detected by the discoloration
of the skin and such a pineapple should not be selected.
101. PREPARATION OF PINEAPPLE.--Some persons consider pineapple a
difficult fruit to prepare, but no trouble will be experienced if the
method right is followed. Place the pineapple on a hard surface, such
as a wooden cutting board, and with a large sharp knife cut off the
tuft of leaves at the top. Then cut the pineapple into 1/2-inch slices
crosswise of the head. When the entire pineapple has been sliced, peel
each slice with a sharp paring knife. With the peeling removed, it will
be observed that each slice contains a number of eyes. Remove these
with the point of a knife. After cutting out the core from the center of
each slice, the slices may be allowed to remain whole or may be cut into
pieces of any desirable size or shape. Pineapple prepared in this way is
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ready either for canning or for desserts in which it is used fresh.
102. PINEAPPLE PUDDING.--One of the most satisfactory desserts made from
pineapple is the pudding given here. It is in reality a corn-starch
pudding in which grated pineapple is used for the flavoring.
PINEAPPLE PUDDING
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2-1/2 c. scalded milk
1/3 c. corn starch
1/2 c. sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 c. cold milk
1-1/2 c. grated pineapple, canned or fresh
2 egg whites
Scald the milk by heating it over the fire in a double boiler. Mix the
corn starch, sugar, and salt, and dissolve in the cold milk. Add to the
scalded milk in the double boiler and cook for about 15 or 20 minutes.
Remove from the fire and add the grated pineapple from which all juice
has been drained. Then fold in the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. Pour
into molds previously dipped in cold water, allow to cool, and serve
with cream.
MISCELLANEOUS TROPICAL FRUITS
103. AVOCADOS.--The avocado, which is also known as the alligator
pear, is a large pear-shaped, pulpy fruit raised principally in the
West Indies. It has a purplish-brown skin and contains just one very
large seed in the center. The flesh contains considerable fat, and so
the food value of this fruit is rather high, being fully twice as great
as a like quantity of apples or oranges.
This fruit, which is gaining in popularity in the Northern States, is
very perishable and does not stand shipment well. As a rule, it reaches
the northern market green and is ripened after its arrival. It is an
expensive fruit and is used almost entirely for salads. As its flavor is
somewhat peculiar, a taste for it must usually be cultivated.
104. GUAVAS.--The guava is a tropical fruit that is extensively grown in
the southern part of the United States. Guavas come in two varieties:
red guava, which resembles the apple, and white guava, which
resembles the pear. The fruit, which has a pleasant acid pulp, is
characterized by a more or less peculiar flavor for which a liking must
be cultivated. It can be canned and preserved in much the same way as
peaches are.
Because guavas are very perishable, they cannot be shipped to northern
markets, but various products are made from them and sent to every
market. Preserved and pickled guavas and confections made from what is
known as guava paste are common, but guava jelly made from the pulp is
probably the best known product.
105. NECTARINES.--The tropical fruit called the nectarine is really a
variety of peach, but it differs from the common peach in that it has a
smooth, waxy skin. Also, the flesh of the nectarine is firmer and has a
stronger flavor than that of the peach. Nectarines are not shipped to
the northern markets to any extent, but they are canned in exactly the
same way as peaches are and can be secured in this form.
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106. PERSIMMONS.--The persimmon is a semitropical plum-like fruit,
globular in shape and an orange-red or yellow in color. It comes in many
varieties, but few of them find their way into the northern markets. The
Japanese persimmon, which resembles a tomato in color, is the variety
most frequently purchased. Persimmons are characterized by a great deal
of very pungent acid, which has a puckery effect until the fruit is made
sweet and edible by exposure to the frost. In localities where they are
plentiful, persimmons are extensively used and are preserved for use
during the winter season.
107. POMEGRANATES.--The pomegranate is about as large as a full-sized
apple and has a hard reddish-yellow rind. Most varieties contain many
seeds and a comparatively small amount of red edible pulp. Pomegranates
of various kinds are grown in the southern part of the United States and
in other warm climates. They are used extensively in the localities
where they are grown and are much enjoyed by persons who learn to care
for their flavor. A cooling drink made from their pulp finds much favor.
108. TAMARINDS AND MANGOES.--Although tamarinds and mangoes are
practically unknown outside of tropical countries, they are considered
to be very delicious fruits and are used extensively in their native
localities.
The tamarind consists of a brown-shelled pod that contains a brown acid
pulp and from three to ten seeds. This fruit has various uses in
medicine and cookery and is found very satisfactory for a
cooling beverage.
Mangoes vary greatly in size, shape, flavor, and color. Some varieties
are large, fleshy, and luscious, while others are small and stringy and
have a peculiar flavor.
MELONS
109. CANTALOUPES AND MUSKMELONS.--The variety of melons known as
muskmelons consists of a juicy, edible fruit that is characterized by a
globular shape and a ribbed surface. Cantaloupes are a variety of
muskmelons, but the distinction between them is sometimes difficult to
understand. For the most part, these names are used interchangeably with
reference to melons.
Considerable variation occurs in this fruit. Some cantaloupes and
muskmelons are large and others are small; some have pink or yellow
flesh and others have white or light-green flesh. All the variations of
color and size are found between these two extremes. The flesh of these
fruits contains considerable water; therefore, their food value is not
high, being only a little over half as much as that of apples.
110. If melons suitable for the table are desired, they should be
selected with care. To be just at the right stage, the blossom end of
the melon should be a trifle soft when pressed with the fingers. If it
is very soft, the melon is perhaps too ripe; but if it does not give
with pressure, the melon is too green.
111. Various ways of serving muskmelons and cantaloupes are in practice.
When they are to be served plain as a breakfast food or a luncheon
dessert, cut them crosswise into halves, or, if they are large, divide
them into sections lengthwise. With the melons cut in the desired way,
remove all the seeds and keep the melons on ice until they are to be
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served. The pulp of the melon may also be cut from the rind and then
diced and used in the making of fruit salads. Again, the pulp may be
partly scraped out of the melon and the rinds then filled with fruit
mixtures and served with a salad dressing for a salad or with fruit
juices for a cocktail. The pulp that is scraped out may be diced and
used in the fruit mixture, and what is left in the rind may be eaten
after the contents have been eaten.
112. CASABA MELONS.--The variety of melons known as casaba, or honeydew,
melons are a cross between a cucumber and a cantaloupe. They have white
flesh and a rind that is smoother than the rind of cantaloupes. Melons
of this kind are raised in the western part of the United States, but as
they stand shipment very well, they can usually be obtained in the
market in other regions. They are much enjoyed by those who are fond of
this class of fruit. Their particular advantage is that they come later
in the season than cantaloupes and muskmelons, and thus can be obtained
for the table long after these other fruits are out of season. Casaba
melons may be served in the same ways as cantaloupes.
113. WATERMELONS.--A very well-known type of melon is the watermelon. It
is grown principally in warm climates of the Southern States, as the
season in the North is not sufficiently long to allow it to develop.
This is a large fruit, having a smooth green skin that is often mottled
or striped, and a pinkish pulp containing many seeds and having a sweet,
watery juice. The large amount of water contained in this fruit makes
its food value very low, it being lower in this respect than muskmelons
and cantaloupes. The volatile oil it contains, which is responsible for
its flavor, proves irritating to some persons who eat it.
114. Watermelon is delicious when it is served ice cold. Therefore,
before it is served, it should be kept on ice for a sufficient time to
allow it to become thoroughly cold. Then it may be cut in any desirable
way. If it is cut in slices, the slices should be trimmed so that only
the pink pulp that is edible is served, the green rind being discarded.
As an appetizer, watermelon is delicious when cut into pieces and served
in a cocktail glass with fresh mint chopped fine and sprinkled over the
top. Small pieces of watermelon cut with a French vegetable cutter make
a very attractive garnish for fruit salads and other fruit mixtures.
FRUIT COCKTAILS
115. Cocktails made of a combination of fruits are often served as the
first course of a meal, usually a luncheon or a dinner, to precede the
soup course. In warm weather, they are an excellent substitute for heavy
cocktails made of lobster or crab, and they may even be used to replace
the soup course. The fruits used for this purpose should be the more
acid ones, for the acids and flavors are intended to serve as an
appetizer, or the same purpose for which the hot and highly seasoned
soups are taken. Therefore, they are seldom made sweet and are not taken
for their food value. Besides being refreshing appetizers, they afford a
hostess an opportunity to carry out a certain color scheme in a meal.
Many kinds of fruit may be combined into cocktails, but directions for
the cocktails that are usually made are here given. Fruit cocktails
should always be served ice cold.
116. GRAPEFRUIT COCKTAIL.--The cocktail here explained may be served in
stemmed glasses or in the shells of the grapefruit. If the fruit shells
are to be used, the grapefruit should be cut into two parts, half way
between the blossom and the stem ends, the fruit removed, and the edges
of the shell then notched. This plan of serving a cocktail should be
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adopted only when small grapefruits are used, for if the shells are
large more fruit will have to be used than is agreeable for a cocktail.
GRAPEFRUIT COCKTAIL
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 grapefruits
2 oranges
1 c. diced pineapple, fresh or canned
Powdered sugar
Remove the pulp from the grapefruits and oranges in the manner
previously explained. However, if the grapefruit shells are to be used
for serving the cocktail, the grapefruit should be cut in half and the
pulp then taken out of the skin with a sharp knife. With the sections of
pulp removed, cut each one into several pieces. Add the diced pineapple
to the other fruits, mix together well and set on ice until thoroughly
chilled. Put in cocktail glasses or grapefruit shells, pour a spoonful
or two of orange juice over each serving, sprinkle with powdered sugar,
garnish with a cherry, and serve ice cold.
117. SUMMER COCKTAIL.--As strawberries and pineapples can be obtained
fresh at the same time during the summer, they are often used together
in a cocktail. When sweetened slightly with powdered sugar and allowed
to become ice cold, these fruits make a delicious combination.
SUMMER COCKTAIL
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 c. diced fresh pineapple
2 c. sliced strawberries
Powdered sugar
Prepare a fresh pineapple in the manner previously explained, and cut
each slice into small pieces or dice. Wash and hull the strawberries and
slice them into small slices. Mix the two fruits and sprinkle them with
powdered sugar. Place in cocktail glasses and allow to stand on ice a
short time before serving.
118. FRUIT COCKTAIL.--A fruit cocktail proper is made by combining a
number of different kinds of fruit, such as bananas, pineapple, oranges,
and maraschino cherries. Such a cocktail is served in a stemmed glass
set on a small plate. Nothing more delicious than this can be prepared
for the first course of a dinner or a luncheon that is to be served
daintily. Its advantage is that it can be made at almost any season of
the year with these particular fruits.
FRUIT COCKTAIL
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 bananas
1 c. canned pineapple
2 oranges
1 doz. maraschino cherries
Lemon juice
Powdered sugar
Peel the bananas and dice them. Dice the pineapple. Remove the pulp from
the oranges in the manner previously explained, and cut each section
into several pieces. Mix these three fruits. Cut the cherries in half
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and add to the mixture. Set on ice until thoroughly chilled. To serve,
put into cocktail glasses as shown in the illustration, and add to each
glass 1 tablespoonful of maraschino juice from the cherries and 1
teaspoonful of lemon juice. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve.
* * * * *
DRIED FRUITS
VARIETIES OF DRIED FRUITS
119. The fruits that have been discussed up to this point are fresh
fruits; that is, they are placed on the markets, and consequently can be
obtained, in their fresh state. However, there are a number of fruits
that are dried before they are put on the market, and as they can be
obtained during all seasons they may be used when fresh fruits are out
of season or as a substitute for canned fruits when the household supply
is low. The chief varieties of dried fruits are dates, figs, prunes,
which are dried plums, and raisins, which are dried grapes. Apples,
apricots, and peaches are also dried in large quantities and are much
used in place of these fruits when they cannot be obtained in their
fresh form. Discussions of the different varieties of dried fruits are
here given, together with recipes showing how some of them may be used.
DATES
120. DATES, which are the fruit of the date palm, are not only very
nutritious but well liked by most persons. They are oblong in shape and
have a single hard seed that is grooved on one side. As dates contain
very little water and a great deal of sugar, their food value is high,
being more than five times that of apples and oranges. They are also
valuable in the diet because of their slightly laxative effect. When
added to other food, such as cakes, hot breads, etc., they provide a
great deal of nutriment.
121. The finest dates on the market come from Turkey and the Eastern
countries. They are prepared for sale at the places where they grow,
being put up in packages that weigh from 1/2 to 1 pound, as well as in
large boxes from which they can be sold in bulk. It is very important
that all dates, whether bought in packages or in bulk, be thoroughly
washed before they are eaten. While those contained in packages do not
collect dirt after they are packed, they are contaminated to a certain
extent by the hands of the persons who pack them. To be most
satisfactory, dates should first be washed in hot water and then have
cold water run over them. If they are to be stuffed, they should be
thoroughly dried between towels or placed in a single layer on pans to
allow the water to evaporate. While the washing of dates undoubtedly
causes the loss of a small amount of food material, it is, nevertheless,
a wise procedure.
122. Dates can be put to many valuable uses in the diet. They are much
used in cakes, muffins, and hot breads and in fillings for cakes and
cookies. Several kinds of delicious pastry, as well as salads and
sandwiches, are also made with dates. Their use as a confection is
probably the most important one, as they are very appetizing when
stuffed with nuts, candy, and such foods.
FIGS
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123. FIGS are a small pear-shaped fruit grown extensively in Eastern
countries and to some extent in the western part of the United States.
The varieties grown in this country are not especially valuable when
they are dried, but they can be canned fresh in the localities where
they are grown. Fresh figs cannot be shipped, as they are too
perishable, but when dried they can be kept an indefinite length of time
and they are highly nutritious, too. In fact, dried figs are nearly as
high in food value as dates, and they are even more laxative.
124. Dried figs are found on the market both as pressed and pulled figs.
Pressed figs are those which are pressed tightly together when they
are packed and are so crushed down in at least one place that they are
more or less sugary from the juice of the fig. Pulled figs are those
which are dried without being pressed and are suitable for such purposes
as stewing and steaming.
125. STEWED FIGS.--If pulled figs can be secured, they may be stewed to
be served as a sauce. When prepared in this way, they will be found to
make a highly nutritious and delightful breakfast fruit or
winter dessert.
STEWED FIGS
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 c. pulled figs
3 c. water
Wash the figs and remove the stems. Put them into a preserving kettle
with the water and allow them to come slowly to the boiling point.
Simmer gently over the fire until the figs become soft. If they are
desired very sweet, sugar may be added before they are removed from the
heat and the juice then cooked until it is as thick as is desirable.
Serve cold.
126. STEAMED FIGS.--When figs are steamed until they are soft and then
served with plain or whipped cream, they make a delightful dessert. To
prepare them in this way, wash the desired number and remove the stems.
Place them in a steamer over boiling water and steam them until they are
soft. Remove from the stove, allow them to cool, and serve with cream.
PRUNES
127. PRUNES are the dried fruit of any one of several varieties of plum
trees and are raised mostly in Southern Europe and California. In their
fresh state, they are purple in color, but they become darker during
their drying. They are priced and purchased according to size, being
graded with a certain number to the pound, just as lemons and oranges
are graded with a certain number to the case. In food value they are
about equal to dates and figs. They contain very little acid, but are
characterized by a large quantity of easily digested sugar. They also
have a laxative quality that makes them valuable in the diet.
128. STEWED PRUNES.--A simple way in which to prepare prunes is to stew
them and then add sugar to sweeten them. Stewed prunes may be served as
a sauce with cake of some kind or they may be used as a breakfast fruit.
STEWED PRUNES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 lb. prunes
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1 c. sugar
Look the prunes over carefully, wash them thoroughly in hot water, and
soak them in warm water for about 6 hours. Place them on the stove in
the same water in which they were soaked and which should well cover
them. Cook slowly until they can be easily pierced with a fork or until
the seeds separate from the pulp upon being crushed. Add the sugar,
continue to cook until it is completely dissolved, and then remove from
the stove and cool. If desired, more sweetening may be used or a few
slices of lemon or a small amount of lemon peel may be added to give an
agreeable flavor.
129. STUFFED PRUNES.--After prunes have been stewed, they may have the
seeds removed and then be filled with peanut butter. Stuffed in this way
and served with whipped cream or merely the prune juice, they make an
excellent dessert.
Select prunes of good size and stew them according to the directions
just given, but remove them from the fire before they have become very
soft. Cool and then cut a slit in each one and remove the seed. Fill the
cavity with peanut butter and press together again. Serve with some of
the prune juice or with whipped cream.
130. PRUNE WHIP.--A very dainty prune dessert can be made from stewed
prunes by reducing the prunes to a pulp and then adding the whites of
eggs. Directions for this dessert follow:
PRUNE WHIP
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 c. prune pulp
1/4 c. powdered sugar
2 egg whites
Whipped cream
Make the prune pulp by removing the seeds from stewed prunes and forcing
the prunes through a sieve or a ricer. Mix the powdered sugar with the
pulp. Beat the whites of the eggs until they are stiff and then
carefully fold them into the prune pulp. Chill and serve with
whipped cream.
RAISINS
131. RAISINS are the dried fruit of various kinds of grapes that contain
considerable sugar and are cured in the sun or in an oven. They come
principally from the Mediterranean region and from California. They have
an extensive use in cookery, both as a confection and an ingredient in
cakes, puddings, and pastry. In food value, raisins are very high and
contain sugar in the form of glucose; however, their skins are coarse
cellulose and for this reason are likely to be injurious to children if
taken in too large quantities. They are also valuable as a laxative and
in adding variety to the diet if they are well cooked before they
are served.
Like other dried fruits, raisins should be washed thoroughly before they
are used. They may then be soaked in warm water and stewed in exactly
the same way as prunes. Sugar may or may not be added, as desired.
Sultana raisins, which are the seedless variety, are especially
desirable for stewing, although they may be used for any of the other
purposes for which raisins are used.
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DRIED APPLES, APRICOTS, AND PEACHES
132. Apples, apricots, and peaches are fruits that are used extensively
in their dried form. They enable the housewife to supply her family with
fruit during seasons when it is impossible to obtain fresh fruit. They
may also be used to take the place of canned fruit, especially when the
supply is low or has been exhausted. Besides their use as a sauce, they
may be used for pies and various desserts.
133. These fruits, which may all be used in just the same way, should be
soaked before stewing and should be stewed according to the directions
for the preparation and cooking of prunes. Then sufficient sugar to make
them sweet should be added. If they are desired for sauce, they may be
used without any further preparation. However, they may be substituted
for fresh fruit in recipes that call for any of them or for prunes. For
instance, dried apricots, after being stewed, may be passed through a
sieve to make a puree and may then be used to make apricot whip or
souffle according to the directions given for other similar desserts.
The flavor of apricots is very strong and a small amount of the pulp
will flavor a large quantity of ice cream, sherbet, or water ice.
* * * * *
FRUIT AND FRUIT DESSERTS
EXAMINATION QUESTIONS
(1) To what are the flavors and odors of fruits chiefly due?
(2) What food substances are found in only very small amounts in fruits?
(3) Mention the kinds of carbohydrate to which the food value of fruits
is chiefly due.
(4) What parts of fruits make up the cellulose they contain?
(5) Discuss the value of minerals in fruits.
(6) Of what value in cookery are fruits containing large quantities of
acid?
(7) What qualities of fruits are affected as they ripen?
(8) Discuss the digestibility of fruits.
(9) What are the effects of cooking on fruit?
(10) What sanitary precautions concerning fruits should be observed?
(11) (a) How do weather conditions affect the quality of berries?
(b) What is the most important use of berries in cookery?
(12) Name some varieties of apples that can be purchased in your
locality that are best for: (a) cookery; (b) eating.
(13) How can peach juice be utilized to advantage?
(14) Mention the citrus fruits.
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(15) Describe a method of preparing grapefruit for the table.
(16) Describe the preparation of oranges for salads and desserts.
(17) Describe the appearance of bananas in the best condition for
serving.
(18) (a) Give a test for the ripeness of pineapples. (b) Describe
the most convenient method of preparing pineapples.
(19) Discuss the use of fruit cocktails.
(20) Describe the general preparation of dried fruits that are to be
stewed.
* * * * *
CANNING AND DRYING
* * * * *
NECESSITY FOR PRESERVING FOODS
1. The various methods of preserving perishable foods in the home for
winter use originated because of necessity. In localities where the
seasons for fruits and vegetables are short, the available supply in
early times was limited to its particular season. Then foods had to be
preserved in some way to provide for the season of scarcity. It was not
possible, as it is now, to obtain foods in all parts of the country from
localities that produce abundantly or have long seasons, because there
were no means of rapid transportation, no cold storage, nor no
commercial canning industries.
2. In the small towns and farming communities, the first preservation
methods for meats, as well as for fruits and vegetables, were pickling,
curing, drying, and preserving. Not until later was canning known. It
was this preserving of foodstuffs in the home that led to the
manufacture and commercial canning of many kinds of edible materials.
These industries, however, are of comparatively recent origin, the first
canning of foods commercially having been done in France about a hundred
years ago. At that time glass jars were utilized, but it was not until
tin cans came into use later in England that commercial canning met with
much favor.
3. Both canning in the home and commercial canning have had many
drawbacks, chief among which was spoiling. It was believed that the
spoiling of canned foods was due to the presence of air in the jars or
cans, and it is only within the last 50 years that the true cause of
spoiling, namely, the presence of bacteria, has been understood. Since
that time methods of canning that are much more successful have been
originated, and the present methods are the result of the study of
bacteria and their functions in nature. It is now definitely known that
on this knowledge depends the success of the various canning methods.
4. Since commercial canning provides nearly every kind of foodstuff, and
since cold storage and rapid transportation make it possible to supply
almost every locality with foods that are out of season, it has not been
deemed so necessary to preserve foods in the home. Nevertheless, the
present day brings forth a new problem and a new attitude toward the
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home preservation of foods. There are three distinct reasons why foods
should be preserved in the home. The first is to bring about economy.
If fruits, vegetables, and other foods can be procured at a price that
will make it possible to preserve them in the home at a lower cost than
that of the same foods prepared commercially, it will pay from an
economical standpoint. The second is to promote conservation; that is,
to prevent the wasting of food. When fruits and vegetables are
plentiful, the supply is often greater than the demand for immediate
consumption. Then, unless the surplus food is preserved in some way for
later use, there will be a serious loss of food material. The third is
to produce quality. If the home-canned product can be made superior to
that commercially preserved, then, even at an equal or a slightly higher
cost, it will pay to preserve food in the home.
5. Of the methods of preserving perishable foods, only two, namely,
canning and drying, are considered in this Section. Before satisfactory
methods of canning came into use, drying was a common method of
preserving both fruits and vegetables, and while it has fallen into
disuse to a great extent in the home, much may be said for its value.
Drying consists merely in evaporating the water contained in the food,
and, with the exception of keeping it dry and protected from vermin, no
care need be given to the food in storage. In the preparation of dried
food for the table, it is transformed into its original composition by
the addition of water, in which it is usually soaked and then cooked.
The drying of food is simple, and no elaborate equipment is required for
carrying out the process. Dried food requires less space and care in
storage than food preserved in any other way, and both paper and cloth
containers may be used in storing it. When storage space is limited, or
when there is a very large quantity of some such food as apples or
string beans that cannot be used or canned at once, it is advisable to
dry at least a part of them. When used in combination with canning,
drying offers an excellent means of preserving foods and thus adding to
their variety.
6. Canning has a greater range of possibilities than drying. A larger
number of foods can be preserved in this way, and, besides, the foods
require very little preparation, in some cases none at all, when they
are removed from the cans. Practically every food that may be desired
for use at some future time may be canned and kept if the process is
carried out properly. These include the perishable vegetables and fruits
of the summer season, as well as any winter vegetables that are not
likely to keep in the usual way or that are gathered while they
are immature.
Many ready-to-serve dishes may be made up when the ingredients are the
most plentiful and canned to keep them for the time when they are
difficult or impossible to obtain otherwise. Such foods are very
convenient in any emergency. Often, too, when something is being cooked
for the table, an extra supply may be made with no greater use of fuel
and very little extra labor, and if the excess is canned it will save
labor and fuel for another day. In the same way, left-over foods from
the table may be preserved by reheating and canning them. Many foods and
combinations of foods may be made ready for pies and desserts and then
canned, it being often possible to use fruits that are inferior in
appearance for such purposes.
Soup may be canned. It may be made especially for canning, or it may be
made in larger quantity than is required for a meal and the surplus
canned. For canning, it is an excellent plan to make soup more
concentrated than that which would be served immediately, as such soup
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will require fewer jars and will keep better. Water or milk or the
liquid from cooked vegetables or cereals may be added to dilute it when
it is to be served.
Meat and fish also may be canned, and many times it is advisable to do
this, especially in the case of varieties that cannot be preserved to
advantage by such methods as salting, pickling, or curing.
7. The preservation of foods by canning and drying should not be looked
at as an old-fashioned idea; rather, it is a matter in which the
housewife should be vitally interested. In fact, it is the duty of every
housewife to learn all she can about the best methods to employ. Canning
methods have been greatly improved within the last few years, and it is
a wise plan to adopt the newer methods and follow directions closely.
Especially should this be done if foods canned by the older methods have
spoiled or if mold has formed on top of the food in the jars.
In order to preserve foods successfully and with ease, the housewife
should realize the importance of carrying out details with precision and
care. The exactness with which the ingredients are measured, the choice
and care of utensils, the selection and preparation of the food to be
canned--all have a direct bearing on whether her results will be
successful or not.
By observing such points and exercising a little ingenuity, the
economical housewife may provide both a supply and a convenient variety
of practical foods for winter use. For example, one single fruit or
vegetable may be preserved in a number of ways. Thus, if there is a very
large supply of apples that will not keep, some may be canned in large
pieces, some may be put through a sieve, seasoned differently, and
canned as apple sauce, and some may be cut into small pieces and canned
for use in making pies. Apple butter and various kinds of jams and
marmalades may be made of all or part apples, or the apples may be
spiced and used as a relish. Combining fruits of different flavor in
canning also adds variety. In fact, neither quinces nor apples canned
alone are so delicious as the two properly combined and canned together.
In the same way, if the housewife will watch the markets closely and
make good use of materials at hand, she may provide canned foods at
comparatively little cost. Of course, the woman who has a garden of her
own has a decided advantage over the one who must depend on the market
for foods to can. The woman with access to a garden may can foods as
soon as they have been gathered, and for this reason she runs less risk
of losing them after they have been canned. Nevertheless, as has been
pointed out, it is really the duty of every housewife to preserve food
in the home for the use of her family.
* * * * *
CANNING
PRINCIPLES OF CANNING
8. CANNING consists in sealing foods in receptacles, such as cans or
jars, in such a way that they will remain sterile for an indefinite
period of time. Several methods of canning are in use, and the one to
adopt will depend considerably on personal preference and the money that
can be expended for the equipment. In any case, successful results in
canning depend on the care that is given to every detail that enters
into the work. This means, then, that from the selection of the food to
be canned to the final operation in canning not one thing that has to do
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with good results should be overlooked.
9. SELECTION OF FOOD FOR CANNING.--A careful selection of the food that
is to be canned is of great importance. If it is in good condition at
the time of canning, it is much more likely to remain good when canned
than food that is not. The flavor of the finished product also depends a
great deal on the condition of the food. Fruits have the best flavor
when they are ripe, but they are in the best condition for canning just
before they have completely ripened. Immediately following perfect
ripeness comes the spoiling stage, and if fruits, as well as vegetables,
are canned before they are completely ripe, they are, of course, farther
from the conditions that tend to spoil them. This, however, does not
mean that green fruits or vegetables should be canned.
Whenever possible, any food that is to be canned should be perfectly
fresh. The sooner it is canned after it has been gathered, the more
satisfactory will be the results. For instance, it is better to can it
12 hours after gathering than 24 hours, but to can it 2 hours after is
much better. Fruits, such as berries, that are especially perishable
should not be allowed to stand overnight if this can be prevented; and
it is absolutely necessary to can some vegetables, such as peas, beans,
and corn, within a very few hours after gathering. Unless this is done,
they will develop a bad flavor because of flat sour, a condition that
results from the action of certain bacteria. Imperfect fruits should
not be canned, but should be used for making jam, marmalade, or jelly.
10. WHY CANNED FOODS SPOIL.--Canned foods spoil because of the action of
micro-organisms that cause fermentation, putrefaction, and molding. The
reasons for the spoiling of food are thoroughly discussed in Essentials
of Cookery, Part 2, and in that discussion canning is mentioned as one
of the means of preserving food or preventing it from spoiling. However,
when canning does not prove effective, it is because undesirable
bacteria are present in the food. Either they have not been destroyed by
the canning process or they have been allowed to enter before the jar
was closed, and have then developed to such an extent as to cause the
food to spoil. Odors, flavors, and gases result from the putrefaction,
fermentation, or molding caused by these bacteria, and these make the
foods offensive or harmful, or perhaps both.
11. PREVENTING CANNED FOODS FROM SPOILING.--From what has just been
said, it will be seen that the success of canning depends entirely on
destroying harmful micro-organisms that are present in the food and
preventing those present in the air from entering the jars in which the
food is placed.
Some foods are more difficult to keep than others, because bacteria act
on them more readily and the foods themselves contain nothing that
prevents their growth. Among such foods are meat, fish, peas, corn,
beans, and meat soups. On the other hand, some foods contain acids that
prevent the growth of bacteria, and these keep easily. Among these are
rhubarb, cranberries, and green gooseberries. However, foods that keep
easily are few, and in most cases extreme care in the process of canning
must be exercised.
12. While warmth is necessary for bacterial growth, very high
temperatures will destroy or retard it. In canning, a temperature as
high as 212 degrees Fahrenheit, or boiling point, retards the growth of
active bacteria, but retarding their growth is not sufficient. They must
be rendered inactive. To do this requires either a higher temperature
than boiling point or long continued cooking at 212 degrees. Spores
are a protective form that many kinds of bacteria assume under
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unfavorable conditions. They are very difficult to kill, and unless they
are completely destroyed in the canning process, they will develop into
active bacteria when conditions again become favorable. The result of
the spore development is the spoiling of the food.
13. Other things besides the application of heat assist in the keeping
of canned food, as, for example, the acids of the fruits and vegetables
themselves, as has been mentioned. The use of sugar also assists; the
greater the quantity of sugar in solution the easier it will be to keep
the food. This is proved in the case of jams and jellies, which will
keep without being sealed tight or put into jars immediately after
cooking. Salt helps to keep vegetables that are canned, and, in making
butters, conserves, and pickles, the spices and vinegars used help to
protect the foods from bacterial action. However, none of these things
are essential to the keeping of any sterile food, by which is meant
food in which all bacteria or sources of bacteria have been rendered
inactive by the application of sufficient heat.
14. CANNING PRESERVATIVES.--Numerous compounds, usually in the form of
powders, are advertised as being useful for keeping canned foods from
spoiling. None of them should be used, however, because they are
unnecessary. If the work of canning is carefully and effectively done,
good foods will keep perfectly without the addition of a preservative.
The pure-food laws of the United States and of many of the states
themselves forbid the use of some preservatives because of their harmful
effect on the human system. For this reason, to say nothing of the extra
expense that would be incurred in their use, such preservatives may well
be left alone.
GENERAL EQUIPMENT FOR CANNING
15. The equipment required for canning depends on two things: the
quantity of food to be canned at one time and, since there are several
canning methods in use, the canning method that is to be employed.
Various kinds of elaborate equipment have been devised to make the work
of canning easy as well as effective. However, it is possible to do
excellent work with simple equipment, and if the matter of expense must
be considered there should be no hesitation about choosing the simplest
and least expensive and doing the work in the best possible way with it.
It is important also that utensils already included in the household
equipment be improvised to meet the needs of the canning season as far
as possible.
16. Whatever the canning method that is to be followed may be, there are
a number of utensils and containers that go to make up the general
equipment that is required. Familiarity with such an equipment is
extremely necessary for correct results in canning, and for this reason
the general equipment is discussed here in detail. The special equipment
needed for each of the canning methods, however, is not taken up until
the method is considered. In giving this general equipment, mention is
made of some utensils that are convenient but not absolutely necessary.
Any unnecessary, but convenient, part of a canning equipment should
therefore be chosen with a view to its labor-saving qualities and its
expense. A device that will make the keeping of canned foods more
certain and prevent loss may be a valuable purchase; still, that which
makes for greater convenience, but not absolute saving, need not be
considered a necessity.
17. VESSELS FOR CANNING.--The pots, kettles, and pans in ordinary use in
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the kitchen for cooking purposes are usually satisfactory for the
canning of foods. Those made of tin or iron, however, are not so good as
enameled ones or those made of other metals, such as aluminum.
Especially is this true of utensils used for the canning of acid fruits
or vegetables, because, if such food remains in contact with tin or iron
for more than a few minutes, the acid will corrode the surface
sufficiently to give the food a bad or metallic taste. In addition, such
utensils often give the food a dark color. If enameled kettles are used
for the cooking of foods that are to be canned, it is important that the
surface be perfectly smooth and unbroken. Otherwise, it will be
difficult to prevent burning; besides, chips of the enamel are liable to
get into the food. Kettles for the cooking of fruits with sirup should
be flat and have a broad surface. Fruit is not so likely to crush in
such kettles as in kettles that are deep and have a small surface.
18. KNIVES, SPOONS AND OTHER SMALL UTENSILS.--Many of the small utensils
in a kitchen equipment are practically indispensable for canning
purposes. Thus, for paring fruits and vegetables and cutting out cores,
blossoms, and stem ends or any defective spots, nothing is more
satisfactory than a sharp paring knife with a good point. For paring
acid fruits, though, a plated knife is not so likely to cause
discoloring as a common steel knife. There are, however, other useful
implements for special work, such as the strawberry huller, for
removing the stems of strawberries, and the peach pitter, for removing
the stones from clingstone peaches. For placing the food to be canned
into jars, both forks and large spoons are necessities. A large spoon
with holes or slits in the bowl is convenient for picking fruits and
vegetables out of a kettle when no liquid is desired, as well as for
skimming a kettle of fruit. For packing foods into jars, a long-handled
spoon with a small bowl is convenient. Still another useful small
utensil is a short, wide funnel that may be inserted into the mouth of
a jar and thus permit the food to be dipped or poured into it without
being spilled.
19. DEVICES FOR MEASURING.--Accurate measures are necessary in canning;
in fact, some of the work cannot be done satisfactorily without them. A
half-pint measuring cup and a quart measure with the cups marked on it
are very satisfactory for making all measures.
Scales are often convenient, too. For measuring dry materials, they are
always more accurate than measures. Many canning proportions and recipes
call for the measurement of the ingredients by weight rather than by
measure. When this is the case and a pair of scales is not convenient,
it is almost impossible to be certain that the proportions are correct.
For instance, if a recipe calls for a pound of sugar and an equal amount
of fruit, a measuring cup will in no way indicate the correct quantity.
20. COLANDER AND WIRE STRAINER.--For the cleansing of fruits and
vegetables that are to be canned, a colander is of great assistance;
also, if a large wire strainer is purchased, it may be used as a sieve
and for scalding and blanching, steps in canning that are
explained later.
21. GLASS JARS.--For household canning, the most acceptable containers
for food are glass jars that may be closed air-tight with jar rubbers
and tops. Use is sometimes made of bottles, jars, and cans of various
kinds that happen to be at hand, but never should they be employed
unless they can be fitted with covers and made positively air-tight.
Like utensils, the glass jars that are a part of the household supply
should be used from year to year, if possible, but not at the loss of
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material. Such loss, however, will depend on the proper sealing of the
jars, provided everything up to that point has been correctly done. All
jars should be carefully inspected before they are used, because
imperfect or broken edges are often responsible for the spoiling
of food.
In purchasing glass jars, only what are known as first quality should
be selected. Cheap jars are likely to be seconds and will not prove so
satisfactory. Glass jars may be purchased in sizes that hold from 1/2
pint to 2 quarts. If possible, food should be canned in the size of jar
that best suits the number of persons to be served.
If the family consists of two, pint jars will hold even more than may be
used at one time, while if the family is large the contents of a quart
jar may not be sufficient.
22. Numerous types of glass jars are to be had. Some of them are more
convenient than others and may be made air-tight more easily. These two
features are the most important to consider in making a selection. Jars
that close with difficulty, especially if the tops screw on, are not
likely to keep food successfully because the bacteria in the air will
have a chance to enter and thus cause the food to spoil.
Glass jars used for canning foods have improved with canning methods.
The old-style jars had a groove into which the cover fit, and melted
sealing wax or rosin was poured into the space surrounding the cover.
Later came the screw-top jar shown in Fig. 3. This type of jar has been
extensively used with excellent results. Both the mouth of this jar and
the jar top, which is made of metal, usually zinc, lined with glass or
porcelain, have threads that match, and the jar is sealed by placing the
jar rubber over the top, or ridge, of the jar and then screwing the jar
top firmly in place. Such jars, however, are more difficult to make
air-tight than some of the newer types. It is provided with a glass
cover that fits on the ridge of the jar and a metal clasp that serves
to hold the cover in place and to make the jar air-tight after a rubber
is placed in position. Another convenient and simple type of glass jar,
known as the automatic seal top, has a metal cover with a rubber
attached.
Another improvement in jars is that the opening has been enlarged so
that large fruits and vegetables, such as peaches, tomatoes, etc., can
be packed into them whole. With such wide-mouthed jars, it is easier to
pack the contents in an orderly manner and thus improve the appearance
of the product. Besides, it is a simpler matter to clean such a jar than
one that has a small opening.
23. JAR TOPS AND COVERS.--While the tops, or covers, for glass jars are
made of both metal and glass, as has been stated, the glass tops meet
with most favor. Of course, they are breakable, but they are even more
durable than metal tops, which are usually rendered less effective by
the bending they undergo when they are removed from the jar. Covers made
of zinc are being rapidly abandoned, and it has been proved that the
fewer the grooves and the simpler the cover, the more carefully and
successfully can it be cleaned. For safety, glass tops that have become
chipped or nicked on the edges that fit the jar should be replaced by
perfect ones. The covers for automatic-seal jars must be pierced before
they can be removed, and this necessitates a new supply for each
canning. If there is any question about the first-class condition of jar
covers, whether of metal or glass, tops that are perfect should
be provided.
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24. JAR RUBBERS.--Jar rubbers are required with jar tops to seal jars
air-tight. Before they are used, they should be tested in the manner
shown in Fig. 5. Good jar rubbers will return to their original shape
after being stretched. Such rubbers should be rather soft and elastic,
and they should fit the jars perfectly and lie down flat when adjusted.
A new supply of rubbers should be purchased each canning season, because
rubber deteriorates as it grows old. Rubbers of good quality will stand
boiling for 5 hours without being affected, but when they have become
stiff and hard from age it is sometimes impossible to make jars
air-tight. Occasionally, two old rubbers that are comparatively soft may
be used in place of a new one, and sometimes old rubbers are dipped in
paraffin and then used. However, if there is any difficulty in sealing
jars properly with rubbers so treated, they should be discarded and good
ones used.
25. TIN CANS.--For household canning, tin cans are not so convenient as
glass jars, but in spite of this they are coming into extensive use. The
kind that may be used without any special equipment has a tin lid that
fits into a groove and is fastened in place with rosin or sealing wax.
Some cans, however, require that the lids be soldered in place. While
soldering requires special equipment, this method of making the cans
air-tight is the best, and it is employed where considerable canning is
done, as by canning clubs or commercial canners.
In the purchase of tin cans, the size of the opening should receive
consideration. If large fruits and vegetables, such as peaches, pears,
and tomatoes, are to be canned, the opening must be a large one;
whereas, if peas, beans, corn, and other small vegetables or fruits are
to be canned, cans having a smaller opening may be chosen. When acid
fruits or vegetables are to be canned, use should be made of cans that
are coated with shellac, as this covering on the inside of the cans
prevents any action of the acid on the tin.
* * * * *
CANNING METHODS
GENERAL DISCUSSION
26. The methods employed for the canning of foods include the
open-kettle method, the cold-pack method, the steam-pressure
method, and the oven method. Of these, the open-kettle method is
perhaps the oldest household method of canning, and it is still used by
many housewives. The other methods, which are newer, seem troublesome to
the housewife who is familiar with the open-kettle method, yet it will
only be fair to give the new methods a trial before deciding which to
use. The one-period cold-pack method has much to recommend it. Foods
canned in this way undergo less change in form and flavor than those
canned by the open-kettle method; besides, there is less danger of
spoiling. In fact, many foods, such as vegetables and meats, that cannot
be canned satisfactorily by the open-kettle method will keep perfectly
if they are carefully preserved by the one-period cold-pack method. The
steam-pressure method requires the use of special equipment, as is
explained later. While it is a very acceptable canning method, it is not
accessible in many homes. The oven method is liked by many housewives,
but it offers almost the same chance for contamination as does the
open-kettle method.
OPEN-KETTLE METHOD
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27. The OPEN-KETTLE METHOD of canning is very simple and requires no
equipment other than that to be found in every kitchen. It consists in
thoroughly cooking the food that is to be canned, transferring it to
containers, and sealing them immediately.
28. UTENSILS REQUIRED.--Not many utensils are required for the
open-kettle canning method. For cooking the food, a large enamel or
metal vessel other than tin or iron should be provided. It should be
broad and shallow, rather than deep, especially for fruit, as this food
retains its shape better if it is cooked in a layer that is not deep.
The other utensils for canning fruits and vegetables by this method are
practically the same as those already discussed--measuring utensils, a
knife, large spoons, pans for sterilizing jars or cans, covers, rubbers,
and jars or cans into which to put the food.
29. PROCEDURE.--The first step in the open-kettle canning method
consists in sterilizing the containers. To do this, first clean the
jars, covers, and rubbers by washing them and then boiling them in clear
water for 15 to 20 minutes.
Next, attention should be given to the food that is to be canned. Look
it over carefully, cut out any decayed portions, and wash it thoroughly.
Sometimes roots, leaves, stems, or seeds are removed before washing, and
sometimes this is not done until after washing. At any rate, all dirt or
foreign material must be washed from foods before they are ready
for canning.
After preparing the food, it must be cooked. If fruit is being canned,
put it into the required sirup, the making of which is explained later,
and cook it until it is well softened, as if preparing it for immediate
table use. If vegetables are being canned, cook them in the same way,
but use salt and water instead of sirup. When the food is cooked,
transfer it to the sterile jars and seal at once with the sterile
rubbers and covers. Then invert each jar to permit the food to cool and
to test for leaks.
30. The danger of not securing good results with the open-kettle method
lies in the possibility of contaminating the contents before the jar is
closed and sealed. In addition to having the jars, rubbers, and covers
sterile, therefore, all spoons and other utensils used to handle the
cooked food must be sterile. Likewise, the jars must be filled to the
top and the covers put on and made as firm and tight as possible at
once, so that as few bacteria as possible will enter. If screw-top cans
are used, the tops should not be twisted or turned after cooling, as
this may affect the sealing. If jars leak upon being turned upside down,
the contents must be removed and reheated and the jar must be fitted
with another cover. Then both jar and cover must be sterilized and the
contents returned and sealed immediately.
COLD-PACK METHOD
31. The COLD-PACK METHOD of canning differs from the open-kettle method
in that the food to be canned is not cooked in a kettle before placing
it in the jars and sealing them. In this method, the food to be canned
is prepared by washing, peeling, scraping, hulling, stemming, seeding,
or cutting, depending on the kind. Then it is scalded or blanched
and plunged into cold water quickly and taken out immediately, the
latter operation being called cold-dipping. After this it is placed
into hot jars, covered with boiling liquid--boiling water and salt for
vegetables, meats, fish, or soups, and boiling sirup for fruits. Then
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the filled jars are covered loosely and placed in a water bath and
processed; that is, cooked and sterilized. When food that is being
canned is subjected to processing only once, the method is referred to
as the one-period cold-pack method; but when the food in the jars has
not been blanched and cold-dipped and is processed, allowed to stand 24
hours and then processed again, and this operation repeated, it is
called the fractional-sterilization method. The equipment required for
the cold-pack canning method and the procedure in performing the work
are taken up in detail, so that every point concerning the work may be
thoroughly understood.
32. UTENSILS REQUIRED.-- Chief among them is a sterilizer, or boiler,
which consists of a large fiat-bottomed vessel fitted with a rack and a
tight-fitting cover. A number of such devices are manufactured for
canning by the cold-pack method, but it is possible to improvise one in
the home. A wash boiler, a large pail, a large lard can, or, in fact,
any large vessel with a flat bottom into which is fitted a rack of some
kind to keep the jars 3/4 inch above the bottom can be used. Several
layers of wire netting cut to correct size and fastened at each end to
a 3/4-inch strip of wood will do very well for a rack. In any event,
the vessel must be deep enough to allow the water to cover the jars
completely and must have a tight-fitting cover. Besides a sterilizer,
there are needed three large vessels, one for scalding the food that is
to be canned, one for cold-dipping, and one for keeping the jars hot.
To hold the food that is to be dipped, a sieve, a wire basket, or a
large square of cheesecloth must also be provided, and for placing jars
in the water bath, a can lifter may be needed. The remainder of the
equipment is practically the same as that described under the heading
General Equipment for Canning.
PROCEDURE IN THE ONE-PERIOD COLD-PACK METHOD
33. PREPARING THE CONTAINERS.--The first step in the cold-pack method
consists in preparing the containers for the food. The jars, rubbers,
and covers, however, do not have to be sterilized as in the open-kettle
method. But it is necessary first to test and cleanse the jars and then
to keep them hot, so that later, when they are filled and ready to be
placed in the water bath, they will not crack by coming in contact with
boiling water. The best way in which to keep the jars hot is to let them
stand in hot water.
34. PREPARATION OF THE FOOD.--Attention should next be directed to the
preparation of the food to be canned; that is, clean it and have it
ready for the processes that follow. The fruits or vegetables may be
canned whole or in pieces of any desirable size. What to do with them is
explained later, when the directions for canning the different kinds are
discussed. While the food is undergoing preparation, fill the sterilizer
with hot water and allow it to come to the boiling point.
35. SCALDING AND BLANCHING.--When the food is made ready, the next step
is to scald or blanch it. Scalding is done to loosen the skin of such
food as peaches, plums, and tomatoes, so that they may be peeled
easily. To scald such fruits or vegetables, dip them quickly into
boiling water and allow them to remain there just long enough to loosen
the skin. If they are ripe, the scalding must be done quickly; otherwise
they will become soft. They should never be allowed to remain in the
water after the skin begins to loosen. For scalding fruits and
vegetables a wire basket or a square of cheesecloth may be used.
Blanching is done to reduce the bulk of such foods as spinach and other
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greens, to render them partly sterilized, and to improve their flavor.
It consists in dipping the food into boiling water or suspending it over
live steam and allowing it to remain there for a longer period of time
than is necessary for scalding. To blanch food, place it in a wire
basket, a sieve, or a piece of clean cheesecloth and lower it into
boiling water or suspend it above the water in a closely covered vessel.
Allow it to remain there long enough to accomplish the purpose intended.
36. COLD DIPPING.--After the food to be canned is scalded or blanched,
it is ready for cold-dipping. Cold-dipping is done partly to improve the
color of the food. It stops the softening process at once, makes the
food more firm and thus easier to handle, and helps to loosen the skin
of foods that have been scalded. It also assists in destroying bacteria
by suddenly shocking the spores after the application of heat.
Cold-dipping, in conjunction with blanching or scalding, replaces the
long process of fractional sterilization, and is what makes the
one-period cold-pack method superior to this other process. To cold-dip
food, simply plunge that which has just been scalded or blanched into
cold water, and then take it out at once.
37. PACKING THE JARS.--Packing the jars immediately follows
cold-dipping, and it is work that should be done as rapidly as possible.
Remove the jars from the hot water as they are needed and fill each with
the cold-dipped fruit or vegetable. Pack the jars in an orderly manner
and as solidly as possible with the aid of a spoon. Just this little
attention to detail not only will help to improve the appearance of the
canned fruit, but will make it possible to put more food in the jars.
When a jar is filled, pour into it whatever liquid is to be used. As
has been stated, hot sirup is added for fruits and boiling water and
salt for vegetables. However, when fruit is to be canned without sugar,
only water is added. With tomatoes and some greens, no liquid need be
used, because they contain a sufficient amount in themselves.
38. PREPARATION FOR THE WATER BATH.--As the jars are filled, they must
be prepared for the water bath. Therefore, proceed to place the rubber
and cover on the jar. Adjust the rubber so that it will be flat in
place. Then put the cover, or lid, on but do not tighten it. The cover
must be loose enough to allow steam to escape during the boiling in the
water bath and thus prevent the jar from bursting. If the cover screws
on do not screw it down tight; merely turn it lightly until it stops
without pressure being put upon it. If glass covers that fasten in
place with the aid of a clamp are to be used simply push the wire over
the cover and allow the clamp at the side to remain up. Jars of food so
prepared are ready for processing.
39. PROCESSING.--The purpose of the water bath is to process the food
contained in the jars before they are thoroughly sealed. Therefore, when
the jars are filled, proceed to place them in the water bath. The water,
which was placed in the sterilizer during the preparation of the food,
should be boiling, and there should be enough to come 2 inches over the
tops of the jars when they are placed in this large vessel. In putting
the jars of food into the sterilizer, place them upright and allow them
to rest on the rack in the bottom. If the filled jars have cooled, they
should be warmed before placing them in the sterilizer by putting them
in hot water. On account of the boiling water, the jars should be
handled with a jar lifter. However, if the sterilizer is provided with
a perforated part all the jars may be placed in it and then lowered in
place.
When the jars are in place, put the tight-fitting cover on the
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sterilizer and allow the water to boil and thus cook and sterilize the
food in the jars. The length of time for boiling varies with the kind of
food and is given later with the directions for canning different foods.
The boiling time should be counted from the instant the water in the
sterilizer begins to bubble violently. A good plan to follow, provided
an alarm clock is at hand, it to set it at this time, so that it will go
off when the jars are to be removed from the sterilizer.
40. SEALING THE JARS.--After processing the food in this manner, the
jars must be completely sealed. Therefore, after the boiling has
continued for the required length of time, remove the jars from the
water with the aid of the jar lifter or the tray and seal them at once
by clamping or screwing the covers, or lids, in place, as in Fig. 16.
Sometimes, the food inside the jars shrinks so much in this process that
the jars are not full when they are ready to be sealed. Such shrinkage
is usually the result of insufficient blanching, or poor packing or
both. However, it will not prevent the food from keeping perfectly.
Therefore, the covers of such jars of food must not be removed and the
jars refilled; rather, seal the jars tight immediately, just as if the
food entirely filled them. If, in sealing jars removed from the water
bath, it is found that a rubber has worked loose, shove it back
carefully with the point of a clean knife, but do not remove the cover.
As the jars are sealed, place them on their sides or stand them upside
down to test for leaks, in a place where a draft will not strike them
and cause them to break. If a leak is found in any jar, a new rubber
and cover must be provided and the food then reprocessed for a few
minutes. This may seem to be a great inconvenience, but it is the only
way in which to be certain that the food will not be wasted by spoiling.
41. WRAPPING AND LABELING.--When the jars of food have stood long
enough to cool, usually overnight, they are ready for wrapping and
labeling. Wrapping is advisable for practically all foods that are
canned, so as to prevent bleaching, and, of course, labeling is
necessary when canned food is wrapped, so as to enable it to be
distinguished readily when it is in storage. To wrap canned foods use
ordinary wrapping paper cut to a size that will be suitable for the
jar, and secure it in place with a rubber band,or by pasting the label
over the free edge.
PROCEDURE IN THE FRACTIONAL-STERILIZATION METHOD
42. In canning food by the FRACTIONAL-STERILIZATION CANNING METHOD, the
procedure is much the same as in the one-period cold-pack method. In
fact, the only difference between the two is that blanching and
cold-dipping are omitted, and in their stead the food in the jars is
subjected to three periods of cooking. When the jars of food are made
ready for processing in the sterilizer, they are put in the water bath,
boiled for a short time, and then allowed to cool. After 24 hours, they
are again boiled for the same length of time and allowed to cool. After
another 24 hours, they are subjected to boiling for a third time. Then
the jars of food are removed and sealed as in the one-period cold-pack
method. By the fractional-sterilization method, the spores of bacteria
contained in the food packed in the jars are given a chance to develop
during the 24-hour periods after the first and second cookings, those
which become active being destroyed by cooking the second and third
times. Although some canners prefer this method to those already
mentioned, the majority look on it with disfavor, owing to the length of
time it requires.
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STEAM-PRESSURE METHODS
43. For canning foods by steam pressure, special equipment is necessary.
In one of the steam-pressure methods, what is known as a water-seal
outfit is required, and in the other a device called a pressure
cooker is employed. The work of getting the containers ready, preparing
the food for canning, packing it into the jars, and sealing and testing
the jars is practically the same in the steam pressure methods as in the
cold-pack methods. The difference lies in the cooking and sterilization
of the foods after they are in the jars and partly sealed and in the
rapidity with which it may be done.
44. CANNING WITH A WATER-SEAL OUTFIT.--A water-seal outfit, which may be
purchased in stores that sell canning supplies, consists of a large
metal vessel into which fits a perforated metal basket designed to hold
jars of food. This vessel is also provided with a tight-fitting cover
having an edge that passes down through the water, which is placed in
the bottom of the vessel. When heat is applied to the bottom of the
vessel, the water inside of it is changed into steam. The cover prevents
the steam from passing out, and it collects in and around the metal
basket supporting the jars of food. Enough steam is generated in this
outfit to raise the temperature about 4 to 6 degrees above the boiling
point. Thus, the water-seal outfit will cook the food in the cans in
about one-fourth less time than will the water bath of the one-period
cold-pack canning method.
45. CANNING WITH A PRESSURE COOKER.--For canning by steam pressure, a
number of different kinds of pressure cookers are to be had, but in
principle they are all alike and they are always made of heavy material,
so as to withstand the severe steam pressure generated in them. It is
provided with a bail, or handle, for carrying it and with clamps that
hold the cover firmly in place. Attached to the cover is a steam gauge,
which indicates the steam pressure inside the cooker, and a pet-cock,
which is used to regulate the pressure. On some cookers, a thermometer
is also attached to the cover. Also, inside of some, resting on the
bottom, is an elevated rack for supporting the jars of food that are to
be sterilized and cooked. In operating a pressure cooker, water for
generating steam is poured in until it reaches the top of this rack,
but it should not be allowed to cover any part of the jars of food.
Steam is generated by applying heat to the bottom of the cooker, and
the longer the heat is applied the higher the steam pressure will go.
It is possible to secure a steam pressure of 5 to 25 pounds per square
inch in a cooker of this kind. This means that the temperature reached
will vary from a few degrees above boiling to about 275 degrees
Fahrenheit. At a pressure of 20 pounds, the temperature will be about
260 degrees. The heavier the material used for a cooker and the more
solid the construction, the higher may go the steam pressure, and, of
course, the temperature. Some cookers of light construction will not
permit of a pressure greater than 5 pounds, but even such cookers are
very satisfactory. It is the high temperature that may be developed in a
pressure cooker that greatly shortens the time required for cooking jars
of food and making them sterile.
CANNING WITH TIN CANS
46. For canning food in some tin cans, it is necessary to have a
soldering outfit for properly closing them. This consists of a capping
steel, a tipping iron, solder in small strips and in powder form, a
small can of sal ammoniac, and a bottle of flux, which is a fluid that
makes solder stick to tin.
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47. Prepare the food that is to be canned in tin cans in the same way as
for canning in jars by the cold-pack method; likewise, pack the cans in
the same way, but allow the liquid and fruit or vegetables to come to
within only 1/4 inch of the top. Then proceed to close the cans. Apply
the flux to the groove in the top of each can where the solder is to be
melted, using for this purpose a small brush or a small stick having a
piece of cloth wrapped around one end. Heat the capping steel, which
should be thoroughly clean, until it is almost red hot, dip it quickly
into a little of the flux, and then put it into a mixture consisting of
equal parts of sal ammoniac and powdered solder until it is covered with
bright solder. Put the cap on the can and apply the hot capping steel
covered with the solder. Hold this device firmly, press it downwards,
and turn it slowly as the solder melts and thus joins the cap to
the can.
48. After the caps are soldered in place, the air inside the cans must
be driven out through the small vent, or opening, usually in the center
of the cap, and the cans made air-tight. Therefore, place the cans into
boiling water to within 1/2 inch of the top and let them remain there
for a few minutes. Usually, 3 minutes in boiling water is sufficient.
Immediately after exhausting, as this process is called, apply a
little of the flux as in capping, and, with the tipping iron well heated
and a strip of solder, seal the hole in the caps. After this is done,
test each can for leaks by submerging it in water. If bubbles arise, it
is an indication that the cover is not tight and must be resoldered.
49. The next step consists in processing the cans of food. This may be
done either in a water bath or in a pressure cooker. If the cans are to
be processed in a water bath, keep them in the boiling water just as
long as glass jars of food would be kept there. If a pressure cooker is
to be used, keep the cans in it for 6 to 40 minutes, depending on the
steam pressure employed, the ripeness of the food or the necessity for
cooking it, and the size of the cans employed. For canning meat or fish,
processing in a pressure cooker is the most successful, as the high
temperature reached in it kills bacteria, which are difficult to destroy
at the boiling point.
As soon as the cans of food are removed from the water bath or the
pressure cooker, plunge them into cold water to stop the cooking and
prevent the food from getting soft and mushy. Then label the cans, so
that no mistake will be made as to their contents.
50. In another method, the tin cans may be closed without soldering the
caps on. The caps used in this case are different from those which must
be soldered. They are forced in place by a hand-pressure machine that
may be attached to a table. Otherwise the procedure is the same as that
just given.
OVEN METHOD
51. The OVEN METHOD oven method of canning is thought to be very
satisfactory by many housewives, but, as it is necessary to remove the
covers after cooking the contents of the jars, food canned in this way
is subjected to contamination, just as in the open-kettle method. In
addition, the jars are difficult to handle in the oven, owing to the
extreme heat that is required to cook the food in the jars.
52. In canning by the oven method, proceed by preparing the food as for
the cold-pack canning method; also, fill the jars with fruit or
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vegetables and with liquid or sirup as in this method. Put the covers on
the jars loosely, omitting the jar rubbers. Place the jars in a shallow
pan of water and set the pan containing the jars into a stove oven,
which should be only slightly warm. At the same time place the jar
rubbers in a pan of boiling water, so that they may be sterilized as
the food cooks. When the jars are in the oven, increase the heat
gradually until the food in them boils. Then keep up a temperature that
will allow the food to boil quietly for a period long enough to cook it
soft and sterilize it. Usually, 30 to 45 minutes after boiling has
begun will be sufficient. During the cooking some of the liquid in the
jars evaporates. Therefore, when the jars of food are ready to be
removed from the oven, have boiling water or sirup ready, remove the
cover of each jar in turn, and fill the jar brimful with the liquid.
Then place a sterilized rubber in place and fasten the cover down
tight. The procedure from this point on is the same as in the other
canning methods.
* * * * *
CANNING VEGETABLES AND FRUITS
PREPARATION FOR CANNING
53. In canning, as in all other tasks related to cookery, the
housewife's aim should be to do the greatest amount of work, and do it
well, with the least effort on her part. The results she gets in
canning, then, will depend considerably on the orderly arrangement of
the utensils and materials with which she is to do the work. But of
greater importance is the preparation she makes to eliminate as much as
she can the possibilities of contamination, for, as has been repeatedly
pointed out, success in canning depends on the absence of
dangerous bacteria.
54. From what has just been mentioned, it is essential that everything
about the person who is to do the work and the place in which the work
is to done should be clean. Clean dresses and aprons should be worn, and
the hands and finger nails should be scrupulously clean. The kitchen
floor should be scrubbed and the furniture dusted with a damp cloth. Any
unnecessary utensils and kitchen equipment should be put out of the way
and those required for canning assembled and made ready for the work.
The jars should be washed and the covers tested by fitting them on
without the rubbers. If a glass cover rocks, it does not fit correctly;
and if a screw cover will not screw down tight, it should be discarded.
Without the rubber, there should be just enough space between the cover
and the jar to permit the thumb nail to be inserted as is shown in Fig.
3. The edge of each jar and each glass cover should be carefully
examined every time it is used, so that none with pieces chipped off
will be used, as these will admit air. This examination is made by
running the finger over the edge of the jar and the cover, as is shown
in Fig. 4. The jars, covers, and rubbers should be put into pans of cold
water, and the water should be brought to the boiling point and allowed
to boil for 15 minutes or more while the fruit or vegetables are being
prepared for canning. They should be kept in the hot water until the
food is ready to be placed in them. In the one-period cold-pack method,
it is not necessary to boil the jars, rubbers, and covers, but this may
be done if desired.
To produce good-looking jars of food, the fruit or vegetables to be
canned should be graded to some extent; that is, the finest of the
fruits or vegetables should be separated and used by themselves, as
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should also those of medium quality. Often it is wise to use the poorest
foods for purposes other than canning. The food may then be canned
according to the chosen method, but by no means should methods be mixed.
In handling the product after it has been cooked by the open-kettle
method, any spoon, funnel, or other utensil must be thoroughly
sterilized in the same way as the jars and their covers and rubbers;
indeed, no unsterile utensil should ever be allowed to touch the food
when a jar is being filled.
55. It is by the observance of such precautions as these, some of them
seemingly unimportant, that the housewife will be repaid for her efforts
in canning and be able to produce canned fruits and vegetables.
DIRECTIONS FOR CANNING VEGETABLES
56. CLASSIFICATION OF VEGETABLES.--To simplify the directions here given
for the canning of vegetables, this food is divided into four groups,
as follows:
1. Greens, which include all wild and cultivated edible greens, such
as beet greens, collards, cress, dandelion, endive, horseradish greens,
kale, mustard greens, spinach, New Zealand spinach, and Swiss chard.
2. Pod and related vegetables, which include asparagus, beans, both
string and wax, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant, okra,
peppers, both green and ripe, summer squash, and vegetable marrow.
3. Root and tuber vegetables, which include beets, carrots, kohlrabi,
parsnips, rutabagas, salsify, sweet potatoes, and turnips.
4. Special vegetables, which include beans, both Lima and shell, corn,
mushrooms, peas, pumpkin, sauerkraut, squash, succotash and other
vegetable combinations, and tomatoes.
The convenience of this plan will be readily seen when it is understood
that, with the exception of the special vegetables, the same method of
preparation and the time given for the various steps in the canning
process apply to all vegetables of the same class. Thus, if directions
for a vegetable belonging to a certain class are not definitely stated
in the text, it may be taken for granted that this vegetable may be
canned in the manner given for another vegetable of the same class.
57. GENERAL DIRECTIONS.--The canning of vegetables may be most
successfully done by the one-period cold-pack method. Tomatoes,
however, because of the large quantity of acid they contain, may be
canned and kept with little difficulty by the open-kettle method, but
they will be found to keep their shape better if the cold-pack method
is employed.
The time required for cooking any vegetable after it is packed in jars
depends on the kind and the age. Therefore, if a vegetable is hard or
likely to be tough, it may be necessary to increase the time given in
the directions; whereas, if it is young and tender or very ripe, as in
the case of tomatoes, the time for cooking may perhaps have to be
decreased. Because, in altitudes higher than sea level, the boiling
point of water is lower than 212 degrees Fahrenheit, the length of time
for boiling foods in the water bath must be increased after an altitude
of 500 feet is reached. Therefore, for every additional 500 feet over
the first 500 feet, 10 per cent. should be added to the time given for
the boiling in water. In case a pressure cooker is used, however, this
is not necessary.
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The canning directions here given are for 1-quart jars. If pint jars are
to be used, decrease the salt proportionately; also, decrease the time
for cooking in each case one-fifth of the time, or 20 per cent. If
2-quart jars are to be used, double the amount of salt and add to the
length of time for cooking one-fifth, or 20 per cent. For instance, if a
1-quart jar of food requires 90 minutes, a pint jar of the same food
would require 72 minutes and a 2-quart jar, 108 minutes.
GROUP 1--GREENS
58. In canning greens, or vegetables belonging to the first group,
select those which are fresh and tender. Greens that are old and
inclined to be strong and tough may require longer blanching and
cooking. Look the greens over carefully, rejecting all leaves that are
wilted or otherwise spoiled. Cut off the roots and drop the leaves into
a pan of cold water. Wash these thoroughly a number of times, using
fresh water each time, in order to remove all sand and dirt that may be
clinging to them. Then proceed to blanch them for 10 to 15 minutes in
steam, suspending the greens over boiling water in a piece of
cheesecloth, a colander, or the top of a steamer. After blanching, dip
them quickly into cold water. Then pack the greens tightly into jars and
add 1 teaspoonful of salt to each jarful. No water has to be added to
greens, because the leaves themselves contain sufficient water. When the
jars are thus packed, adjust the covers and proceed to sterilize and
cook the greens according to the directions previously given. If the
water bath is to be used, boil them in it for 1-1/2 to 2 hours; but if
the pressure cooker is to be employed for this purpose, cook them at a
5-pound pressure for 60 minutes or at a 10-pound pressure for
40 minutes.
GROUP 2--POD AND RELATED VEGETABLES
59. The best results in canning vegetables belonging to the second group
will be derived when those which are fresh and tender are selected. As
has been mentioned, the sooner vegetables are canned after they are
taken from the garden, the better will be the canned product. Directions
for practically all vegetables included in this group are here given.
60. ASPARAGUS.--Select tender asparagus, and proceed with the canning no
later than 5 hours after it has been taken from the garden. Remove the
hard portions at the ends of the stems, and cut the trimmed stems into
pieces the length of the jars into which they are to be placed. If
preferred, however, the asparagus may be cut into small pieces. Wash the
cut asparagus thoroughly in cold water, and then sort out the uneven
pieces that were cut off in making the stems even in length. These may
be canned separately for soup. Lay the stems of asparagus in an orderly
pile in a colander or a wire basket, cover it, and place it into a large
vessel where it may be kept completely covered with boiling water for 5
minutes. Then cold-dip the asparagus quickly, and pack it neatly into
the jars, keeping the tip ends up. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to each
jarful and pour boiling water into each jar until it is completely full.
Adjust the covers and proceed to sterilize and cook the jars of food.
Cook for 1-1/2 to 2 hours in the water bath, or, in the pressure cooker,
cook for 60 minutes at a pressure of 5 pounds or for 40 minutes at a
pressure of 10 pounds.
61. BRUSSELS SPROUTS, CABBAGE, AND CAULIFLOWER.--In canning Brussels
sprouts, cabbage, or cauliflower, first prepare each vegetable as if it
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were to be cooked for the table. When thus made ready, blanch it with
the aid of a square of cheesecloth or a colander in live steam, over
boiling water, for 10 to 15 minutes. Then cold-dip it and pack it
tightly into the jars. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to each jarful and fill
each jar with boiling water. Proceed next to sterilize and cook it
according to the method selected. Boil for 90 minutes in the water bath;
in the pressure cooker, cook for 60 minutes at a 5-pound pressure or for
40 minutes at a 10-pound pressure.
62. EGGPLANT AND SUMMER SQUASH.--Both eggplant and summer squash are
canned in the same way, because the consistency of these vegetables is
much alike. Select firm vegetables with no decayed spots. Blanch for 3
to 8 minutes in boiling water; cold-dip quickly; remove the skins; cut
into pieces of a size that will fit into the jars; pack into the jars;
and add 1 teaspoonful of salt to each jarful. Next, adjust the jar lids
and proceed according to the directions given for the method selected.
In the water bath, boil for 1-1/2 hours; in the pressure cooker, cook
for 60 minutes at a pressure of 5 pounds or for 40 minutes at a pressure
of 10 pounds. Eggplant or summer squash so canned may be rolled in egg
and crumbs and sauted or fried, the same as fresh vegetables of
this kind.
63. OKRA AND GREEN PEPPERS.--Both okra and green peppers may also be
canned in the same way. Prepare these vegetables for canning by washing
fresh, tender pods of either vegetable thoroughly. Blanch for 5 to 15
minutes in boiling water and cold-dip quickly. Pack the pods into the
jars, add a teaspoonful of salt to each jarful, and fill the jars with
boiling water. Adjust the lids and proceed according to directions for
the method selected. In the water bath, boil for 1-1/2 to 2 hours; in
the pressure cooker, cook for 60 minutes at a pressure of 5 pounds or
for 40 minutes at a pressure of 10 pounds.
64. STRING BEANS.--String beans of any variety should be canned as soon
as they are gathered. If the beans to be canned are not of the
stringless variety, prepare them by stringing them, following the
directions given in Vegetables, Part 1. Stringless beans should be
selected if possible, to avoid this part of the work. Cut out any rusted
portions, cut each end from the beans, and, if preferred, cut the beans
into inch lengths. When thus prepared, blanch them for 10 to 15 minutes
in live steam, cold-dip quickly, and pack tightly into the jars. Add a
teaspoonful of salt to each jarful, fill the jars with boiling water,
adjust the lids, and cook according to the method preferred. In the
water bath, boil for 1-1/2 to 2 hours; in the pressure cooker, cook for
60 minutes at a pressure of 5 pounds or for 40 minutes at a pressure of
10 pounds.
GROUP 3--ROOT AND TUBER VEGETABLES
65. Only the small, young, and tender vegetables included in the third
group lend themselves readily to canning. As a rule, such vegetables are
allowed to mature, when they can be stored for winter use without
canning them. However, many housewives like to can some of them for the
variety they offer in the preparation and planning of meals.
66. BEETS.--For canning, select small, young beets. Prepare them by
cutting off the tops, which may be cooked as greens or canned
separately, and all but about an inch of the stems and an inch of the
roots. Scrub the trimmed beets well, and then blanch them in boiling
water for 5 to 15 minutes or until the skins may be easily scraped off
with a knife. Plunge them quickly into cold water and draw them out
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again. Then scrape off the skins and remove the roots and stems. The
roots and stems are left on during the blanching and cold-dipping to
prevent them from bleeding, or losing color. When thus prepared, pack
the beets into jars, add 1 teaspoonful of salt to each jarful, and fill
the jars with boiling water. Then adjust the jar tops and proceed to
sterilize and cook the jars of beets according to the directions for any
preferred method. In the water bath, cook them for 1-1/2 hours; in the
pressure cooker, cook them for 1 hour at a pressure of 5 pounds or for
40 minutes at a pressure of 10 pounds.
67. CARROTS, PARSNIPS, AND TURNIPS.--Young parsnips and turnips are
canned in exactly the same way as young carrots. Therefore, directions
for the canning of carrots will suffice for all three of these
vegetables. Prepare the carrots for canning by cutting off the tops and
the roots and scrubbing them well. Blanch them for 10 to 15 minutes in
boiling water, so that the skins may be easily removed, and cold-dip
them. Then remove the skins by scraping, pack the carrots into the jars,
add 1 teaspoonful of salt to each jarful, and fill the jars with boiling
water. Adjust the jar tops next, and proceed to sterilize and cook the
jars of carrots according to the method selected. In the water bath,
cook for 1-1/2 hours; in the pressure cooker, cook for 1 hour at a
pressure of 5 pounds or for 40 minutes at a pressure of 10 pounds.
GROUP 4--SPECIAL VEGETABLES
68. Vegetables of the fourth group, which include those which cannot
well be classified in the other groups, lend themselves readily to
combinations, such as succotash, that make for variety in food. As is
true of the other vegetables, special vegetables must be fresh and sound
if good results in canning are expected.
69. LIMA AND OTHER SHELLED BEANS.--For canning, only tender beans,
whether Lima or some other variety, should be chosen. Prepare them for
immediate canning by shelling them--that is, taking them from the
pods--blanching them for 5 to 10 minutes in boiling water, and then
cold-dipping them quickly. Pack the jars to within 1/2 inch of the top,
add 1 teaspoonful of salt to each jar, and fill the jars with boiling
water. Adjust the covers and proceed to sterilize and cook them. In the
water bath, boil for 2-1/2 to 3 hours; in the pressure cooker, cook for
1-1/2 hours at a pressure of 5 pounds or for 1 hour at a pressure of
10 pounds.
70. GREEN CORN.--For canning purposes, only corn that is young and milky
should be selected. Get it ready for canning by husking it and removing
the silk. Then blanch it for 3 to 5 minutes in boiling water and
cold-dip it quickly. Cut the kernels half way down to the cob and scrape
out what remains after cutting. For best results in this operation, hold
the ear of corn so that the butt end is up; then cut from the tip toward
the butt, but scrape from the butt toward the tip. Next, pack the jars
tightly with the corn, pressing it into them with a wooden masher.
Unless two persons can work together, however, cut only enough corn for
one jar and fill and partly seal it before cutting more. As corn swells
in the cooking, fill each jar to within 1/2 inch of the top. The milk in
the corn should fill all spaces between the kernels, provided there are
any, but if it does not, boiling water may be poured in. Add 1
teaspoonful of salt to each jarful of corn and adjust the jar lids. Boil
for 3 hours in the water bath; but, if the pressure cooker is to be
used, cook for 1-1/2 hours at a pressure of 5 pounds or for 1 hour at a
pressure of 10 pounds.
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Corn on the cob may be canned in the same way if desired, but as only
three small ears can be put into a quart jar, this would seem to be a
waste of space and labor. If corn on the cob is to be canned, 2-quart
jars will prove more convenient than 1-quart jars.
71. PEAS.--Peas for canning should be well formed and tender, and they
should be canned as soon as possible after coming from the garden.
Proceed by washing the pods and shelling the peas. Blanch the shelled
peas for 5 to 10 minutes in live steam, and cold-dip them quickly. Pack
the peas into the jars, having them come to within 1/2 inch from the
top, add 1 teaspoonful of salt to each jarful, and fill the jars with
boiling water. Then adjust the jar lids and proceed according to
directions for the method selected. In the water bath, boil for 2 or 3
hours; in the pressure cooker, cook for 1-1/2 hours at a pressure of 5
pounds or for 1 hour at a pressure of 10 pounds.
72. PUMPKIN AND SQUASH.--The canning of pumpkin and squash is advisable
when there is any possibility of their not keeping until they can be
used. Prepare either of these vegetables for canning by first peeling it
and cutting the edible part into inch cubes. Blanch these cubes for 10
to 15 minutes in live steam and cold-dip them quickly. Pack the jars as
full as possible, and add 1 teaspoonful of salt to each jar, but no
water. After adjusting the jar lids, boil the jars of food for 1-1/2
hours in the water bath, or cook them for 1 hour at a pressure of 5
pounds or for 40 minutes at a pressure of 10 pounds in the pressure
cooker. When finished, the jars will be found to be only about half
full, but the contents will keep perfectly.
If desired, pumpkin or squash may first be cooked as if preparing it for
use and then put into the jars for processing.
73. SUCCOTASH.--Of course, succotash is not a vegetable, but the name of
a food that results from combining corn and beans. These vegetables may
be canned together to make for variety in the winter's food supply, or
each may be canned separately and combined later. Clean the ears of corn
in the manner previously directed; then blanch them for 5 minutes and
cold-dip them. Also, remove green Lima beans from the pods, blanch them
for 10 minutes, and cold-dip them. Then cut and scrape the corn off the
cobs and mix it with an equal quantity of the beans. Pack the mixture
into the jars to within 1/2 inch of the top, add a teaspoonful of salt
to each jarful, and fill the jars with boiling water. Adjust the jar
tops and proceed according to the directions for the process to be
employed. In the water bath, boil for 2 hours; in the pressure cooker,
cook for 50 minutes at a pressure of 5 pounds or for 35 minutes at a
pressure of 10 pounds.
74. TOMATOES.--As has been stated, tomatoes may be canned successfully
by the open-kettle method. If this method is to be employed, the first
part of the preparation is exactly the same as for the cold-pack method,
except that the jars, jar tops, and jar rubbers must be carefully
sterilized.
For canning, firm tomatoes should be selected if possible, as they will
keep their shape better than those which are very ripe. If some are
soft, they should be sorted out and canned for soup making or made into
catsup. After washing the tomatoes, proceed to blanch them. The length
of time required for blanching depends entirely on the condition of the
tomatoes. They should be blanched for 1 to 3 minutes, or just long
enough to loosen the skin. After blanching, dip them quickly into cold
water and remove the skins. These, it will be found, may be removed
easily and quickly. Pack the tomatoes thus prepared tightly into jars
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and fill them with boiling water, boiling tomato juice, or stewed
tomatoes. Add a teaspoonful of salt to each jar. Then adjust the jar
lids and proceed according to the directions given for the method
selected. Boil for 22 minutes in the water bath; in the pressure cooker,
cook for 15 minutes at a pressure of 5 pounds or for 10 minutes at a
pressure of 10 pounds.
75. TOMATOES FOR SOUP.--If there are soft tomatoes at hand or if
tomatoes are canned by the open-kettle method, quantities of tomato
juice will be available. Such material as this may be put through a
sieve and boiled down for winter use in the making of soups, bisques,
etc. It may be canned simply by pouring the boiling juice into
sterilized jars and sealing them immediately.
76. TOMATOES AND CORN.--An excellent food combination results from
combining stewed tomatoes with corn. Such a combination may be canned
safely by either the open-kettle or the cold-pack method. The acid of
the tomatoes helps to keep the corn, but the combination requires longer
cooking than just plain tomatoes. Prepare each vegetable as for canning
separately, but, if desired, cut the tomatoes into pieces. Mix the two
foods in any desirable proportion and, for the cold-pack canning method,
put the food into the jars. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to each jarful,
but no water. Then adjust the jar lids, and proceed to sterilize and
cook the jars of food. In the water bath, cook them 1-1/2 hours; in the
pressure cooker, cook them for 50 minutes at a pressure of 5 pounds or
for 35 minutes at a pressure of 10 pounds.
DIRECTIONS FOR CANNING FRUITS
77. The chief difference between the canning of fruits and the canning
of vegetables is that sugar in the form of sirup, instead of salt water,
is used for the liquid. Fruits may be canned without sugar if desired,
but nothing is gained by so doing, for sugar will have to be added
later. Because of the sugar used in canning and the acid contained in
the fruit, canned fruit has better keeping qualities than canned
vegetables. In fact, it is much more likely to keep well even though it
does not receive such careful attention as vegetables. It is for this
reason that canned fruit does not require so much time for sterilization
as vegetables do. Still it should not be inferred that care is not
necessary in the canning of fruits. Indeed, the more care that is taken,
the better are the results likely to be.
78. SIRUPS FOR CANNING.--Before the canning of fruits can be undertaken,
it is necessary to possess a knowledge of the sirups that are needed.
Such sirups consist simply of sugar dissolved in boiling water. The
quantity of sugar and water required for a sirup depends on the acidity
of the fruit and the purpose for which it is to be used. Plain canned
fruits that are to be used for sauces, etc. require less sugar
proportionately than those which are preserved, and fruit canned for pie
making may have less than either. Thus, fruits of the same kind may be
canned with sirups of different proportions. To a great extent, the
quantity of sugar to use with fruit may be regulated by the taste, but
it will be readily seen that such fruits as sour cherries and plums will
require more sugar to make them palatable than pears and blueberries. It
will be well to note, though, that the sugar does not penetrate the
fruit unless the two are cooked together.
79. In order to make sirup for canning, place the desired quantities of
sugar and water in a kettle and proceed to heat them. Stir the liquid
while it is heating, in order to assist in dissolving the sugar. When it
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has begun to boil rapidly, remove the sirup from the fire and use it at
once. Do not continue boiling.
In preparing such sirups, it will be well to note that the greater the
proportion of sugar to water or the longer the sugar and water are
allowed to boil, the denser, or heavier, will the sirup become. It is
this density of sirup that regulates its use for the different kinds
of fruit and determines its nature. Thus, a sirup in which the
proportion of sugar to water is so large as to make the sirup thick is
known as a heavy sirup; one in which the proportion of water to sugar
is so large as to make the sirup thin is called a light sirup; and one
in which the proportion of sugar and water is such as to produce a sirup
that is neither thick nor thin, but stands between the two extremes, is
called a medium sirup.
TABLE I
SIRUPS FOR CANNING FRUITS
Proportions Degrees
------------ With
Sirup Sugar Water Hydro-
No. Cups Cups meter Uses
---------------------------------------------------------------
1 2 4 28 Open-kettle canning, or pie
fruit canned by any method.
2 2 3 30 Open-kettle canning, or pie
fruit canned by any method.
3 2 2 40 Open-kettle canning, or sweet
fruits canned by cold-pack
methods.
4 2 1-1/2 48 Sweet fruits canned by
cold-pack methods.
5 2 1 54 Sour fruits canned by
cold-pack methods.
6 2 1/2 68 Very rich fruits canned by
cold-pack methods; preserves
canned by open-kettle method.
---------------------------------------------------------------
80. The density of sirup is also affected by the amount and rapidity of
evaporation that takes place in boiling, and these, in turn, depend on
the amount of surface that is exposed. For instance, if a sirup is
cooked in a large, flat kettle, the evaporation will be greater and more
rapid than if it is cooked in a small, deep vessel. Atmospheric pressure
affects the rapidity of evaporation, too. In a high altitude,
evaporation takes place more slowly than at sea level, because the
boiling point is lower. Thus, in the making of sirups for canning, the
first point to be determined is whether the sirup desired should be
light, medium, or heavy, and in its preparation the points mentioned
must receive consideration.
81. For determining the density of sirup, a sirup gauge, or
hydrometer, will be found useful. This device consists of a graduated
glass tube attached to a bulb that is weighted with mercury. The
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graduations, or marks, on the tube, or top part, of the hydrometer serve
to indicate the percentage of solid matter dissolved in a solution and
register from to 50 degrees. To use such a gauge, partly fill a glass
cylinder--an ordinary drinking glass will do--with the sirup and place
the hydrometer in it. The greater the amount of solid matter dissolved
in the sirup, the higher will be hydrometer float. Then read the number
of degrees registered by observing the mark that is level with the
surface of the sirup.
The number of degrees that the hydrometer should register for sirups of
different densities--that is, for sirups consisting of different
proportions of sugar and water--are given in Table I. This table, in
addition, gives the uses that should be made of such sirups, and each
one is numbered so that it may be referred to readily later in the
recipes for canning fruits.
82. CLASSIFICATION OF FRUITS.--For the sake of convenience in canning,
fruits, too, are here divided into groups. These groups, three in
number, together with the fruits included in each, are:
1. Soft Fruits, which are subdivided into three kinds, namely, sweet,
sour, and very sour. The sweet soft fruits include blackberries,
blueberries or huckleberries, sweet cherries, elderberries, ripe
gooseberries, mulberries, and black and red raspberries; the sour soft
fruits, apricots, currants, grapes, peaches, and strawberries; and the
very sour soft fruits, sour cherries, cranberries, green gooseberries,
plums, and rhubarb.
2. Hard Fruits, which include apples, quinces, and pears.
3. Special Fruits, which include ripe figs, kumquats, loquats,
nectarines, persimmons, and pineapples.
The advantage of this classification, as in the case of the vegetable
classification, is that, as a rule, all fruits belonging to a group or a
subdivision of a group may be canned in the same way and with sirup of
practically the same density.
83. CANNING METHODS FOR FRUITS.--The canning of fruits may be done by
the several methods previously discussed, but the Cold-pack and
open-kettle methods seem to meet with most favor. On account of the
sirup used in canning fruit and the acid in the fruit, the open-kettle
method is usually fairly successful, whereas, in the canning of
vegetables, with the exception of tomatoes, it is not so reliable. The
housewife, by experiment, can determine which method will suit her needs
best, but by no means should methods be mixed. If a certain method is
decided on, it should be adhered to in every detail and carried through
without any substitution. For all methods, as has been mentioned, the
fruit should be selected when it is fresh and in good condition, as such
fruit has less chance to spoil than fruit that is overripe or has
decayed spots. After it is graded for size and condition, the fruit
should be washed, stemmed, hulled, seeded, peeled, or halved, quartered,
or sliced, depending on the kind. Then the work may be proceeded with
according to the canning method that is to be followed.
84. If fruits are to be canned by the open-kettle method, certain
precautions must be observed in order to insure success. The
sterilization of the product cannot be perfect in this method no matter
how carefully the canning is done; and this means that the sugar and the
fruit acids must be greatly relied on to assist in preservation. Still,
the jars, jar covers, jar rubbers, and any utensils used for filling the
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jars must be sterilized and kept in boiling water until the fruit is
ready to be canned. Another thing to guard against is the discoloring of
the fruit. Any fruit that is likely to become discolored after it is
prepared for canning should be kept in salt water until it is ready to
be cooked. A solution consisting of 1 teaspoonful of salt to each quart
of water will answer for this purpose.
After the fruit has been prepared and while the containers, etc. are
being sterilized, it is necessary to prepare the sirup that is to be
used. For the sweet fruits of Group 1, No. 1 or 2 sirup should be made;
for the sour fruits of this group, No. 2 or 3 sirup; and for the very
sour fruits, No. 4 or 5 sirup. The hard fruits may be canned by this
method with No. 1, 2, or 3 sirup, while the special fruits require No. 4
or 5 sirup. If the fruit is to be canned for pie, it will be advisable
to use thin sirup and then use more sweetening when pies are made.
When the sirup is made by mixing the sugar and water and bringing it to
a boil, the prepared fruit should be dropped into it and cooked. The
fruit should be cooked in the sirup until it may be easily pierced with
a fork or until it is soft. Berries have to be cooked only a few
minutes, while the hard fruits may require from 10 to 15 minutes. The
jars should be placed upright in a pan of hot water while the boiling
fruit from the kettle is poured into them, and as each jar is filled the
rubber should be put in place and the cover adjusted and secured. It is
important to close one jar before filling another, because the longer a
jar remains open the more bacteria will be permitted to enter. Even by
working as rapidly as possible and taking the greatest precaution, a
certain number of bacteria are bound to enter in this method of canning.
After the jars are filled and sealed, they should be placed upside down
or on the side to cool and test for leaks.
85. If the cold-pack method is employed in canning fruit, it is possible
to obtain a sterilized product that is dependent for preservation on
neither the sirup used nor the acid of the fruit. In this method, the
jars, jar tops, covers, and utensils for handling the fruit do not have
to be sterilized beforehand. They may simply be washed clean and kept
hot in clean water until they are needed. After the fruits are prepared,
some are blanched or scalded and cold-dipped, while others are not. They
are then packed into jars and boiling sirup is poured over them. Then
the rubbers are adjusted, the covers placed on, but not made tight, and
the jars are placed under water in the water bath or on the racks in the
pressure cooker, which should contain a small amount of water, as has
been explained. After cooking the required length of time, the jars of
fruit are removed from the cooking utensil, sealed, and allowed to cool.
The sirup used in the cold-pack canning method may be heavier in each
case than that mentioned for the open-kettle method, because there is no
evaporation, as is the case where fruits are boiled in the sirup before
they are placed in the cans, but less will be required if the packing is
well done.
GROUP 1--SOFT FRUITS
86. SWEET SOFT FRUITS.--The sweet fruits included in Group 1
--blackberries, huckleberries, elderberries, ripe gooseberries,
mulberries, raspberries, and sweet cherries-may be canned in exactly the
same way, so that the same general directions will apply to all. Prepare
the different kinds of berries, which should be as fresh as possible, by
looking them over carefully and removing the poor ones, and then
washing them. To wash them, pour them into a colander and dip it up and
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down in a large pan of clean, cold water. The less handling such fruits
receive, the more perfect will they remain for canning. Prepare sweet
cherries, which should be procured with the stems on if possible, by
first washing them and then stemming them. They may be pitted, or
seeded, or they may be left whole, depending on personal preference.
Cherries that are not pitted will keep their shape and have a good
appearance, but they are not so convenient for eating as those which
have been pitted.
87. After the fruit has been prepared in the manner just explained, pack
it closely into the hot, clean jars, using a spoon for this purpose and
turning each jar as the fruit is poured into it. Press the berries or
the cherries down carefully, so that 2 quarts of them will fill a
1-quart jar. Then proceed to make the sirup. As these fruits are the
sweetest, they require less sugar than any other. If such fruit after it
is canned is to be used for pie making, sirup No. 1 or 2 will be
suitable, but if it is to be used for sauce, No. 3 sirup may be used.
When the mixed sugar and water is boiling rapidly, pour it over the
fruit packed into the jars. Then place the rubbers, adjust the jar tops,
and proceed to sterilize and cook the cans of fruit. Boil these in the
water bath for 15 minutes, or cook them in the pressure cooker for 8
minutes at a pressure of 5 pounds or for 4 minutes at a pressure of
10 pounds.
88. SOUR SOFT FRUITS.--Of the sour fruits, STRAWBERRIES, GRAPES, and
CURRANTS require about the same quantity of sugar, that contained in
sirup No. 3, 4, or 5 usually being sufficient. Otherwise, the canning
process, including the length of time for processing, does not differ
materially from that just given for sweet soft fruits.
In the case of strawberries, those which are of medium size and rather
dark in color are best for canning; in fact, very large, light-colored
strawberries will shrink more than any other kind. The berries are
washed in the same way as other berries, but they should not be allowed
to stand in water for any length of time, because this will tend to make
them soft and mushy. Strawberries must be stemmed after they are washed,
and for this purpose a strawberry huller should be utilized. Such a
device, which is shown in Fig. 1, permits the stems to be removed
without crushing the berries and soiling the fingers.
In preparing currants for canning, the procedure is the same as for the
fruits already mentioned; and the same thing is true of grapes that are
not to be seeded. If the seeds are to be removed, however, the procedure
up to getting the cans of fruit ready for processing is different, as is
here pointed out. After washing the grapes, squeeze the pulp from the
skins and then cook it in a kettle for a sufficient length of time to
make it soft. Remove the seeds by forcing the pulp through a sieve. Then
add as much sugar as would be used for making the required sirup, and
cook until the sugar is dissolved. With this done, add the sweetened,
seedless pulp to the grape skins and fill the jars with this mixture.
Then continue the canning process as for the other fruits of this group.
89. The procedure in canning APRICOTS and PEACHES, the other two sour
soft fruits, differs slightly from that required for strawberries,
grapes, and currants. So that the skins of both of these fruits may be
easily removed, they must be scalded, which is an operation that
corresponds to blanching in vegetable canning.
For canning purposes, only firm, fresh apricots and peaches that are not
overripe should be selected. Also, in the case of peaches, care should
be taken to see that they are of the freestone variety, as such
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peaches may be split easily. Clingstone peaches should not be chosen
unless the fruit is to be canned whole or unless an implement for
removing the seeds, or stones like that shown in Fig. 2, is at hand.
Proceed with the canning of either apricots or peaches by first scalding
them. To do this, put the fruit in boiling water for 1 to 3 minutes,
depending on its ripeness. Next, cold-dip it quickly, remove the skins,
and, if desired, cut each one in half and remove the seed, or stone.
When thus prepared, pack the fruit into hot jars as tightly as possible,
pour sirup No. 3, 4, or 5 over them, filling each jar, adjust the rubber
and jar top, and proceed as directed for the cold-pack method. In the
water bath, boil the cans of fruit for 15 minutes; in the pressure
cooker, cook them for 10 minutes at a 5-pound pressure or for 6 minutes
at a 10-pound pressure.
90. VERY SOUR SOFT FRUITS.--Some of the fruits of the third subdivision
of Group 1, namely, SOUR CHERRIES, CRANBERRIES, and GREEN GOOSEBERRIES,
may be prepared and canned in the same way as those included in the
first subdivision. The cherries may be left whole or they may be seeded,
as preferred, and all the fruit must, of course, be fresh. For these
very sour fruits, sirups Nos. 4, 5, and 6 are required, and the
processing time is 15 minutes in the water bath and 10 minutes at a
5-pound pressure or 5 minutes at a 10-pound pressure in the
pressure cooker.
91. PLUMS for canning should be fresh and firm, but not overripe. This
fruit may be canned with the skins on, but some varieties permit the
skins to be removed after scalding, and this may be done if desired.
Prepare the plums for canning by washing them, and, if the skins are to
be left on, by piercing each one in several places with a fork to
prevent the skins from cracking. Then scald the plums for about 1-1/2
minutes, cold-dip them quickly, and pack them closely into the hot jars.
Pour sirup No. 4, 5, or 6 over the fruit in the jars, using sirup No. 6
if they are very sour, adjust the rubbers and the covers, and proceed
according to the canning method selected. In the water bath, cook for 15
minutes; in the pressure cooker, cook for 10 minutes at a pressure of 5
pounds or for 6 minutes at a pressure of 10 pounds.
92. RHUBARB for canning should be selected when it is most tender. The
variety having red stems is the most attractive after it is canned. Only
the heavy stems, which should be cut from the leaves, may be canned. Cut
these stems into inch lengths, blanch them 1 to 3 minutes in boiling
water, and cold-dip them quickly. Then pack these pieces into the jars.
If the rhubarb is being canned for sauce, fill each jar with sirup No. 5
or 6; if it is being canned for pie, use sirup No. 1, 2, or 3. Next,
adjust the rubbers and covers and proceed with the processing. In the
water bath, cook for 15 minutes; in the pressure cooker, cook for 10
minutes at a 5-pound pressure or for 6 minutes at a 10-pound pressure.
GROUP 2--HARD FRUITS
93. APPLES.--The canning of apples should be done when there is a large
supply of summer apples that cannot be stored for winter use or used at
once. Canning is also a good means of utilizing windfall apples. This
fruit may be canned in quarters for sauce, in slices for pie, or in any
other desirable shape or condition.
After apples for canning are selected, wash them, scald, or blanch, them
for 1 to 5 minutes in boiling water, and cold-dip them quickly. Next,
peel and core them, and cut each one into pieces of any desirable size.
As these pieces are cut, drop them into salt water--1 teaspoonful of
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salt to each quart of water--to prevent them from discoloring. Then pack
the fruit into the jars and fill the jars with boiling sirup. If the
apples are intended for pie, use sirup No. 1, 2, or 3; if they are for
sauce, use sirup No. 3, 4, or 5. When the jars are filled, adjust the
rubbers and covers and proceed with the processing. If the pieces are
large, cook them in the water bath for 20 minutes; if they are medium in
size, cook them for 15 minutes; and if they are in the form of slices,
cook them for 10 minutes. If they are to be processed in the pressure
cooker, cook them for 8 to 12 minutes at a pressure of 5 pounds or for 6
to 8 minutes at a pressure of 10 pounds.
If the apples to be canned are first baked or made into a sauce, simply
pack them into jars and process them for a few minutes.
94. QUINCES.--Quinces may be canned alone, but they may be combined with
apples to good advantage. If canned alone, they may require a heavier
sirup than if apples are used with them. Prepare the quinces in the same
way as apples. If apples are to be canned with them, cut the pieces of
apples twice the size of the pieces of quinces. This should be done
because more time is required for cooking the quinces soft. After
packing the jars and pouring in the sirup, proceed with the processing.
If quinces alone are in the jars, cook them in the water bath for 30
minutes; but if quinces and apples are combined, cook them for 20
minutes. In the pressure cooker, cook the jars of fruit for 12 to 15
minutes at a 5-pound pressure or for 10 to 12 minutes at a
10-pound pressure.
95. PEARS.--Pears for canning should be firm, but not hard. After
sorting and washing them, blanch them for 1 to 3 minutes and cold-dip
them quickly. Then pare, halve, and core them. Pack them immediately
into the jars and pour sirup No. 3 or 4 over them. Next, adjust the
rubbers and covers and proceed with the processing. In the water bath,
cook them for 20 minutes; in the pressure cooker, cook them for 8
minutes at a 5-pound pressure or 6 minutes at a 10-pound pressure.
GROUP 3--SPECIAL FRUITS
96. FIGS.--Although figs are not a common fruit, there are parts of this
country, particularly on the western coast, in which they are abundant.
For canning, ripe figs should be selected. To prepare them, blanch them
for 2 minutes in boiling water and cold-dip them. Then pack them into
the jars and fill the jars by pouring sirup No. 4, 5, or 6 over the
figs. Proceed with the remainder of the process as in canning peaches.
97. KUMQUATS AND LOQUATS.--Kumquats and loquats are small acid fruits
resembling oranges in color and plums in size and shape. Such fruits are
not very common, but they may be obtained in some markets. To can either
of these fruits, wash them, blanch for 5 minutes, cold-dip, pack into
jars, and fill the jars with sirup No. 5 or 6. In the water bath, cook
them for 15 minutes. In the pressure cooker, cook them for 10 minutes at
a 5-pound pressure or for 5 minutes at a 10-pound pressure.
98. NECTARINES.--Nectarines are a smooth-skinned variety of peach. Ripe
nectarines may be canned in the same way as peaches, but they do not
require so much sugar, sirup No. 2 or 3 usually being about right.
99. PERSIMMONS.--Persimmons are a seedy, plum-like fruit common to the
southern and southwestern parts of the United States. This fruit is very
astringent when unripe, but is sweet and delicious when ripe or touched
by frost. Well-frosted persimmons should be selected for canning. Blanch
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them so that the skin may be removed easily and cold-dip them quickly.
Then peel them and pack them into hot jars. Fill the jars with sirup No.
6 and process them in the same way as peaches.
100. PINEAPPLES.--Pineapples are better known than any of the other
special fruits. For canning, those ripe enough to permit the center
leaves to pull out easily should be selected; also, they should be free
from soft or rotten spots, which are most likely to appear first near
the bottom. Pineapples are graded in size by the number that may be
packed in a case. These sizes are 24, 30, 36, and 42, size 24 being the
largest and size 42 the smallest. Sizes 30 and 36 are best for canning.
In canning pineapples, first place each in boiling water for 10 minutes
and dip it quickly into cold water. Then prepare it for the cans. This
may be done by removing the peeling with a sharp knife, digging out the
eyes, and then slicing or dicing; by slicing first and then peeling and
taking out the eyes; or by peeling, taking out the eyes, and then
shredding it with the aid of a fork. When it is prepared, pack the fruit
into the jars, fill each jar with sirup No. 4 or 5, adjust the rubbers
and covers, and proceed to process it. In the water bath, cook for 30
minutes; in the pressure cooker, cook for 12 minutes at a pressure of 5
pounds or for 10 minutes at a pressure of 10 pounds.
CANNING MEAT AND FISH
101. Both fish and meat, including that from fowl and game, may be
canned at times that seem convenient and then used when an emergency
arises or at a time when the same food will cost more to prepare. Fowl,
game, and fish may be canned to special advantage during the season when
each is plentiful. The best process for canning such foods is the
one-period cold-pack method.
102. MEAT.--In canning meat, whether from domestic animals, fowl, or
game, first cut it into pieces of a size that would be suitable for
serving at the table. The meat may be left raw or it may be prepared by
any desirable cooking process, such as frying, fricasseeing, braizing,
etc. Careful attention must be given to the drawing of fowl that is to
be canned, because the entire alimentary tract should be removed without
being broken. The giblets should not be canned with the rest of the
meat, as they will not keep so well. Whether the meat is to be canned
raw or cooked, pack the jars as tightly as possible. If the meat is raw,
add 1 teaspoonful of salt to each quart of food and fill the jars
three-fourths full with boiling water. In case the jar is filled to the
top, fat will rise and injure the rubber. If the meat is cooked, add any
liquid that may have resulted from the cooking, as well as boiling
water, provided more liquid is needed. Then, as in canning vegetables
and fruit, adjust the rubbers and covers and proceed with the
processing. In the case of raw meat, sterilize for 3 hours in the water
bath, or for 1-1/2 hours at a 10-pound pressure in the pressure cooker.
In the case of cooked meat, sterilize for 1-1/2 hours in the water bath,
or for 30 minutes at a 10-pound pressure in the pressure cooker.
103. FISH.--To prepare fish for canning, first clean it by scaling it
and removing the entrails. Wrap the cleaned fish in cheesecloth and
steam for 15 minutes. After steaming, remove the bones, which will come
out easily, and cut the fish into pieces. Pack the pieces into the jars,
and to each quart of the food add 1 teaspoonful of salt. Next, fill each
jar three-fourths full with boiling water and continue with the canning
in the manner directed for meat.
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STORING AND SERVING CANNED FOODS
104. After jars of canned food have been cooled and tested for leaks,
carefully wiped with a damp cloth, and then wrapped and labeled, they
are ready to be placed in storage. Such food should be stored in an
orderly manner on shelves that may be covered to keep off dust, or in a
large cupboard provided with doors that may be closed. The temperature
of the room in which the canned foods are kept is of no great
importance, but, in homes provided with cellars, the cellar is the
logical place in which to store them.
Canned foods, no matter how well the canning may have been done, undergo
gradual deterioration. Therefore, those kept for more than a year, will
not be so good as those used during the first year after canning. If
canned foods from a previous year are at hand when new cans are ready to
be stored, the old ones should be placed to the front of the shelves and
the new ones to the back, so that the old ones will be used up first.
105. Canned foods take the place of raw foods, and whether they should
be cooked or not depends on the kind. In the case of vegetables, most of
them may be made ready to serve simply by heating them, although they
may be used in the preparation of many dishes, as is evident from the
recipes throughout the lessons. In the case of fruits, some may be
served just as they come from the can; however, there are many ways of
using canned fruits in the making of desserts, as is pointed out in
Fruit and Fruit Desserts. In the case of meats and fish, the food, if
cooked before canning, may be prepared for serving simply by heating it;
whereas, if it is canned raw, some cookery method for meat will have to
be applied.
When foods are boiled, one reason for a change in taste is that oxygen
is driven off by the boiling. Therefore, to improve the taste of canned
foods that are to be served without any further preparation, it is
advisable, when a jar is opened, to pour the contents into an open dish
and thus expose it to the air.
In opening jars of canned fruit, care must be taken not to crack or nick
either the top of the jar or its cover. The cover of any kind of jar
will come off easily if a little air is admitted. Insert a knife blade
between the cover and jar rubber of a glass-covered jar, but do not use
a knife to loosen a metal top, as it may bend the edge in places. Hot
water poured over the jar will assist in opening it.
SCORING CANNED FOODS
106. In order that the housewife may judge the quality of her own canned
products according to standards that have been set by canning
authorities, a score card, together with an explanation of the terms and
the procedure, is here given. The beginner in canning will do well to
score her own foods, so that any fault that may be found can be
corrected when similar foods are canned at another time. In fact, the
chief purpose of scoring any product is to learn of faults that may be
corrected. The scoring should be done as impartially as if a
disinterested person were doing it, and if the cause of any trouble is
not readily apparent, pains should be taken to find it out.
SCORE CARD PER CENT.
General appearance 10
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Method of sealing 10
Proportion of food to liquid 10
Flavor 35
Texture of food 20
Color 15
---
Total 100
107. As a rule, scoring, or judging, is done at the time the canned food
is to be opened and used.
The general appearance is judged before the jar is opened. If a jar of
food is well and symmetrically packed and has clear liquid and a good
color, it should receive a perfect score of 10.
The method of sealing must also be judged before the can is opened. A
properly filled jar with the rubber and cover in good condition and
tightly sealed should receive a perfect score of 10.
The proportion of food to liquid should score 10. The jars should be
as full of uncrushed food as possible, and the liquid that has been
added should fill all crevices to the very edge of the jar.
The flavor is judged after the can is opened, and if it is perfect, it
is entitled to a score of 35. The flavor of canned fruit is injured by
any kind of spoiling, such as molding, fermentation, etc. Fruits canned
in good condition should retain the characteristic flavor of the fresh
fruits; also, they should contain sufficient sugar to be agreeably
sweet, but no more. Canned vegetables should retain their characteristic
flavors, with no sour, musty, nor disagreeable taste, and be slightly
salty. Canned meats and fish should also possess their characteristic
flavors.
The texture of food is entitled to a score of 20 if it is perfect.
The canned food should be whole; that is, in the original pieces as they
were put into the can. Underripe fruit or insufficiently cooked fruit or
vegetables do not have the proper texture; neither do overripe or
uncooked foods.
The color of canned food merits a score of 15 if it is right. Fruits
and vegetables should have retained their natural color. Fading after
canning may be prevented by wrapping the cans, as has been explained.
* * * * *
DRYING
PRINCIPLES OF DRYING
108. DRYING consists in removing the moisture contained in foods by
evaporation and thus rendering them less susceptible to the attacks of
undesirable bacteria. Dried foods, as foods so treated are called,
will not replace fresh or canned foods. However, they are valuable in
many cases and possess some advantages over such foods. For example, the
weight of dried foods is very greatly reduced, the storage space
required by them is much less, and they are easy to keep without
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spoiling and easy to transport. Likewise, the containers for such foods
are less costly than those required for canned foods and they are easily
procured, since paper boxes or paper bags are satisfactory. In fact, the
housewife, by taking care of the bags and boxes that come into the home,
can easily provide all the containers she will possibly need at
practically no cost.
109. The water in food that is to be dried may be evaporated by applying
heat, by bringing the food in contact with moving air, or by subjecting
it to a combination of both of these methods. The heat for drying may be
obtained from the sun, as in the sun-drying method, or from the stove,
as in the stove-drying method, while moving air for evaporating
moisture may be obtained from an electric fan, as in the electric-fan
drying method.
In the application of any of these drying methods, however, it is
important to note that the more surface of food there is exposed, the
more quickly will evaporation take place. Drying should therefore be
done on devices constructed in such a way that air may pass up through
food, as well as across its surface. In drying foods, the racks should
be turned frequently, so that all parts will be exposed equally to the
heat or the currents of air. Also, the food must be turned over often,
in order that all parts will dry evenly.
110. Any fruit or vegetable may be dried if the method is properly
applied, but there is usually more or less change in both the flavor and
the color of the dried food. The more rapidly the drying can be done,
the more natural will the color and flavor remain; whereas, the longer
the process is continued, the greater will be this change.
Foods should be dried when they are in such quantity that they cannot be
used to advantage in the raw state, when there is no market for them,
when the owner cannot afford to give them away, and when home canning
ceases to be practical and profitable. In other words, if it is not
practical to save foods in another way, they should be dried.
DRYING METHODS
111. DEVICES FOR DRYING.--Many manufactured devices may be had for the
drying of foods. Some are made so that they may be placed on top of a
stove. This device is in the form of a metal box. It has a tray for
holding the food to be dried, and underneath this is a space for
holding water. Water is poured into this space through a funnel in one
corner, and heat for drying is supplied by heating the water. Other
devices are made so that they may be suspended over a stove, put into a
stove oven, or used out of doors. Still others have a heating device
placed inside of them. It is possible, however, to make drying devices
in the home that will answer the purpose just as well as the devices
that may be bought.
As has been stated, drying devices should be so made that the air may
pass up through the food and across its surface. A pan, a platter, or a
solid board, as will be readily seen, is not so good for drying as a
wooden frame of convenient size that has small slats or fine,
rustless-wire netting, or screening, attached to the bottom. Such a
device may be covered with cheesecloth to keep out dirt. If it is to be
used in the oven or set in the sun, a nail driven part way into each
corner will provide feet and thus keep it from resting on the oven floor
or any other flat surface.
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For suspending food that is to be dried over a stove, a rack may be
easily made in the home. It consists of three trays fastened together.
These trays are suspended by four strings tied to another string that
runs over small pulleys. The pulleys are attached to a wooden brace
that is secured to the kitchen wall. The pulleys and string permit the
rack to be raised or lowered, so that the food may be easily put into
and taken out of the trays.
112. SUN-DRYING METHOD.--If food is to be dried in the sun, spread it in
a single layer on each tray, cover the trays so that no dirt will fall
into them, and set them out of doors so that the sun's rays will strike
them. Glass covers will help to increase the heat from the sun. As the
sun changes, change the position of the trays or turn them. Food that is
being dried outdoors should be brought into the house when the sun goes
down and put out again the following morning. This procedure should be
kept up until the food is so dry as to be leathery; that is, in a
condition that will permit of bending without cracking.
113. STOVE-DRYING METHOD.--If food is to be dried by the stove-drying
method, it may be placed in the oven, on top of the stove, or suspended
above the stove.
114. If the oven is to be used, a device that fits the oven should be
employed. Spread the food on the trays in single layers, and put the
device into the oven. The temperature of the oven demands attention in
this method. Only a very moderate heat may be applied at first, 110
degrees Fahrenheit being considered the ideal temperature for beginning.
As it is difficult to hold an oven at such a low temperature if a fire
is burning, the oven door should be left open to admit air. The
temperature of the oven of a coal stove in which the fire is banked or
is being allowed to go out is usually ideal for drying foods. If
desired, the heat of an oven may be gradually increased to about 180
degrees as the food dries; but the application of greater heat is liable
to scorch the food and injure its flavor. The food must be turned often
to permit it to dry evenly.
115. If food is to be dried on top of the stove a device may be
improvised by placing a metal tray over a large flat vessel of water.
Place the food to be dried in a single layer on the tray over the
water. Let the water boil and keep it boiling, and turn the food
frequently so that the heat will be applied to all sides. Continue this
process until the food is leathery, when it may be stored.
116. If food is to be dried in a rack suspended above the stove, Cover
the trays in the rack with a single layer of food, and dry it to the
leathery stage, when it may be removed and stored. In using this
device, only a coal or a wood stove is practical. When the heat coming
from the stove is not great, the rack may be allowed to come close to
it, and when the heat is intense the rack may be drawn up. Regulating
the distance of the rack from the stove will tend to keep the food at a
uniform temperature and allow it to dry evenly, especially when the
food is turned from time to time.
117. ELECTRIC-FAN DRYING METHOD.--If a house is wired for electricity,
drying foods by means of the air-currents generated by a moving electric
fan is a simple matter. Use devices like those required for the sun and
oven-drying methods. Spread the foods to be dried on the trays in a
single thin layer, and arrange them so that the air from the electric
fan will blow over them. Turn the trays as the food dries, so that one
part does not dry sooner than another; also, turn the food frequently so
as to expose all parts alike. If the fan can be placed so as to blow
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across a stove and thus blow heated air on the food, it will dry more
quickly. A very warm kitchen is an excellent place in which to do the
work with an electric fan, as the combination of air and heat does the
work more rapidly than either one used alone.
118. COMBINATION DRYING METHODS.--A combination of any of the drying
methods mentioned may be used effectively. Drying may be started in the
sun and completed in the oven, or it may be started with an electric fan
and completed in the sun or the oven. Any means whereby the time
required for drying may be shortened is advantageous.
DIRECTIONS FOR DRYING VEGETABLES AND FRUITS
119. PREPARATION OF FOODS FOR DRYING.--The correct preparation of the
foods before drying is very important. The thinner and smaller the
pieces to be dried are cut, the more quickly may the process be
completed. Any skins or hulls that would prevent the rapid evaporation
of moisture from the food must be removed or broken, and every raw food
that is to be dried must first be immersed in salt water made in the
proportion of 1 teaspoonful of salt to each quart of water, as this
prevents discoloring to a great extent.
120. STRING BEANS.--Beans for drying should be selected while they are
young and tender. Wash them and remove the strings if this is necessary.
Cut them in half, lengthwise, with a sharp knife. Drop them into salt
water, remove, and spread on the drying trays. Dry by any
method selected.
121. CORN.--Corn that is to be dried should be at the dough stage;
younger corn contains too much water for good results. Prepare the corn
by husking it and removing the silk. Then blanch it in boiling water for
5 minutes, after which cut off the grains close to the cob with a sharp
knife. Spread these on the drying trays and proceed according to the
method desired.
122. GREENS.--Wash the greens thoroughly. Cut across the leaves several
times. Drop them into salt water, remove, and spread on the drying
trays. Dry by any method selected.
123. TUBER AND ROOT VEGETABLES.--Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes,
carrots, parsnips, and even onions may be successfully dried. First peel
or scrape them. Then slice or cut them into small pieces. Drop them into
salt water, remove from the water, and spread them on the drying trays.
Dry them by the method selected.
124. SMALL FRUITS.--Berries, cherries, and other small fruits may be
dried, but since they contain considerable water, the drying is not
accomplished very rapidly. Ripe, firm fruit should be selected and
cleaned. Cherries should have the seeds, or pits, removed. Such fruits
must be dried as quickly as possible, or they will spoil in the process.
125. APPLES, QUINCES, AND PEARS.--In order to dry apples, quinces, and
pears, wash, peel, core, and cut the fruit into eighths. Put the peeled
fruit into the salt water and keep it there until all are peeled and cut
and ready to dry. Then spread the cut pieces in a thin layer on the
drying trays and proceed according to the method desired.
126. PEACHES AND APRICOTS.--Peaches and apricots are most easily dried
with the skin on. Wash them thoroughly and, in the case of peaches, rub
the fuzz off the skins. Cut the fruit into halves, remove the seeds, or
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stones, and drop the halves into salt water and keep them there until
they are ready to be placed on the drying trays. Dry by any
process desired.
STORING AND COOKING DRIED FOODS
127. When foods are taken from the various drying devices to be stored,
they still contain a very small quantity of moisture. This moisture,
however, is not distributed evenly, because some of the pieces of food
are larger than others, or some have been exposed more than others to
heat or air in drying. To offset this unequal drying, the containers in
which the foods are to be stored should not be closed permanently as
soon as the food is put into them. Rather, once a day, for about 3 days,
the food should be poured from one container into another and back again
several times. This will mix all the food and distribute the
moisture equally.
128. The object in storing dried foods is to keep them as dry as
possible; that is, not to allow them to absorb moisture from the air.
The best containers in which they may be placed are those coated with
paraffin. Paper bags or boxes may be prepared in the home by dipping
them into paraffin, although heavy paper containers already covered with
paraffin may be bought in supply stores. Heavy paper or cloth bags may
be used, provided they are stored in a dry place where there is no
danger from rats and mice. Containers of any kind should be securely
tied before storing them permanently. Bags and boxes of dried food are
preferably suspended from rafters in an attic, but if this is not
possible a rack or a bin located in a place that is not damp
will answer.
It is well, in storing dried foods, to use containers that will hold
only a small quantity of food, so that when some is taken out to be
cooked a large amount will not be exposed. It is best to store just
enough for a meal or two in each container.
129. Before dried foods are cooked, as much as possible of the water
evaporated in drying should be restored. In order to do this, soaking is
necessary. The dried food should be put into cold salt water made in the
proportion of 1 teaspoonful of salt to 1 quart of water and soaked for
at least 1/2 hour. The salt water seems to help restore the original
color of the food. When dried vegetables are to be cooked, they should
be cooked in the salt water in which they are soaked; when dried fruits
are to be cooked, the salt water should be poured off and fresh water
used. Long, slow cooking at a low temperature is better for all kinds of
dried foods than rapid cooking. The fireless cooker will be found
valuable for cooking dried foods.
* * * * *
CANNING AND DRYING
EXAMINATION QUESTIONS
(1) Give three reasons for canning food.
(2) What foods may be canned?
(3) (a) How may satisfactory canning equipment be provided at little
or no cost? (b) What metals are not good for canning or
preserving kettles?
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(4) (a) What are the requirements for satisfactory types of jars?
(b) What are the qualities of good jar rubbers?
(5) What kind of tin cans should be used for canning fruits or
vegetables that contain acid?
(6) (a) Why should care be exercised in the selection of foods to be
canned? (b) What points must be considered in the selection of foods
for canning?
(7) Why do canned foods spoil?
(8) How may canned foods be prevented from spoiling?
(9) (a) What are spores? (b) What connection have spores with the
spoiling of canned food?
(10) Mention three things that assist in the keeping of canned foods.
(11) (a) How should jar covers and rubbers be treated in the
open-kettle canning method? (b) Describe the filling and closing of
jars in this method.
(12) (a) Describe the utensil used for processing in the one-period
cold-pack canning method. (b) How should jars, covers, and rubbers be
treated in this method?
(13) (a) How are foods blanched and scalded, and why are blanching and
scalding done? (b) How are foods cold-dipped, and why is
cold-dipping done?
(14) (a) How should foods be packed in jars in the cold-pack canning
method? (b) How should the rubber and cover be adjusted before
processing? (c) When should you begin to count the boiling time for
food that is being processed in the water bath?
(15) (a) How and when should jars be closed in the cold-pack method?
(b) How should jars of food be cooled?
(16) (a) How should jars of food be treated for storage? (b) How
should they be stored?
(17) Mention some advantages of dried foods over fresh or canned ones.
(18) What important points should be considered in the process of drying
food?
(19) What are the proportions of salt and water into which foods that
discolor are placed before they are canned or dried?
(20) What precautions should be observed in the storing of dried foods?
* * * * *
JELLY MAKING, PRESERVING, AND PICKLING
* * * * *
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VALUE OF JELLIES, PRESERVES, AND PICKLES
1. Like canning and drying, JELLY MAKING, PRESERVING, and PICKLING are
methods of preparing perishable foods to resist decomposition and
change. When treated by any of these three processes, fruits and
vegetables will keep for long periods of time and will thus be ready for
use during the seasons when they cannot be obtained fresh. The
preservation of food by making it into jellies, preserves, and pickles
does not, as in the case of canning, depend on the sterilization of the
product, but rather on the use of certain ingredients that act as
preservatives. These include sugar, spices, salt, and vinegar, all of
which are considered harmless preservatives in both the home and the
commercial preparation of foods.
2. The making of jelly, preserves, and pickles may seem like an
extravagance in the expenditure of money for materials, as well as of
time and energy on the part of the housewife. Whether this is the case
or not is a matter that must be decided by the housewife herself. If
these foods are not of enough value to her in the preparation of meals
and the feeding of her family to make it worth her while to use her time
and materials in storing them for winter use, then it is not wise for
her to prepare them. But foods so preserved usually have sufficient
merit to warrant the expenditure of the time and the money required in
their making.
3. In the first place, it will often be necessary to throw away material
that would make excellent jelly or jam unless the sugar can be supplied
and the time given to make this material into something that is edible
and at the same time attractive. As is well known, all through the
canning season, there is some material, which may have been intended
for canning, but which, for some reason, cannot be used in that way.
Such material should be utilized in the preparation of these foods. For
instance, some of the berries and other fruits bought for canning may be
found to be too ripe to make a good-looking product, but may be very
satisfactory for the making of jars or jellies. Then, too, if the
open-kettle method of canning is used, there is almost certain to be a
superfluous amount of juice that would be wasted if it were not used in
the making of jelly. Such material need not necessarily be used at the
time, for it may be canned and then made up later at some more
convenient time.
In addition to material of this kind, there is often a surplus of
vegetables and fruits on hand, particularly if one has access to a
garden. Much of this can be canned and dried, but what is not desired
for these purposes might be wasted if it were not made up into
appetizing jellies, preserves, and pickles.
4. Even though it were not necessary to consider the matter of waste and
the utilizing of surplus fruits and vegetables, there would still be
sufficient reason for the making of jellies, preserves, and pickles,
because these foods, when properly prepared, have great value in the
meal. Jellies and preserves, because of the large quantity of sugar used
in them, are foods high in carbohydrate. In view of this fact, they
should be considered as a part of the meal in which they are served,
instead of being used extravagantly or regarded as something extra in an
already sufficiently large menu.
Besides their importance in food value, they should have a place in the
diet because they stimulate the appetite through their attractive colors
and delicious flavors. The familiar fact that a child will refuse to eat
plain bread and butter, but will accept the same piece when it has been
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made attractive by the addition of a little jam, argues much for the use
of foods of this sort in children's diet. As it is with children, so it
is to a large extent with adults. During the winter months, when fruits
and fresh vegetables are scarce and expensive, practically every one
finds jellies and preserves appetizing, for these things, in a measure,
take the place of the foods that are difficult to procure.
5. Not so much can be said of the various kinds of pickles, as they are
not so valuable in the diet from the standpoint of food values. They are
made from fruits and vegetables, as are jellies and preserves, but the
preservatives used in their preparation are vinegar and spices. In
addition to having no food value, such ingredients produce
overstimulation and irritation in the alimentary tract, toughen the
cellulose in the foods used, and consequently often cause indigestion
and various gastric disturbances. For these reasons, pickles should not
be included in the diet of children. However, because of the stimulation
they produce in the stomach, foods of this kind, if taken in small
quantities, are properly served as appetizers, and can be eaten by
normal adults without fear of digestive disturbances. Then, too, as
every one who has meals to prepare knows, they are valuable for
relieving monotony in the diet, a point that should not be overlooked.
6. Because the preservation of food in jellies, preserves, and pickles
is accomplished by the use of certain preservatives instead of by the
sterilization of the food, as in canning, these preparations do not mold
or spoil readily. Therefore, containers of a different nature from those
used in canning may be used to store these foods. Jars having tightly
sealed covers are not required, but such containers as wide-necked
bottles, stone jars or crocks, glasses, etc. may be utilized for this
purpose. In fact, containers of almost any description may be used for
jellies, preserves, and pickles. They should, of course, be sealed in
some way to prevent the entrance of bacteria, and various methods of
accomplishing this have been devised. A very satisfactory way consists
in pouring melted paraffin over the top of the food and then covering
the container with a piece of heavy paper and tying this on securely
with cord.
7. Since jellies, preserves, and pickles occupy a place of importance in
the diet and at the same time provide an opportunity to utilize material
that might otherwise be wasted, they are entitled to a certain amount of
attention from the housewife. To equip her with the knowledge she needs
for this work and give her practice in jelly making, preserving, and
pickling, the details of these processes are taken up, step by step, in
this Section.
* * * * *
JELLY MAKING
PRINCIPLES OF JELLY MAKING
8. JELLY MAKING consists in cooking fruit juice with sugar until, upon
cooling, it will solidify, or jell. While this is not a difficult nor a
complicated process, there are some housewives who do not have success
with it. Often the result may be very good when a certain fruit is used,
whereas it may be entirely unsatisfactory at another time, even though
the same fruit is used and practically the same procedure is followed.
If the best results are to be assured in jelly making, the principles
that are involved in this process must first be thoroughly understood
and then the correct procedure must be painstakingly followed out.
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9. To solidify properly and thus become a desirable jelly, the fruit
juice that is used for this purpose must have the following
characteristics and treatment: (1) it must contain certain jelly-making
properties; (2) it must be extracted properly; (3) it must be combined
with the correct proportion of sugar; and (4) it must be cooked the
proper length of time. There are, of course, numerous degrees of
solidity of jelly, varying from that which will barely retain its shape
to that which is very tough and hard, but neither extreme is desirable.
To be right, the jelly should be firm enough to stand up well, but
should be tender and soft when a spoon is cut into it.
10. Fruit is the principal ingredient in the making of jelly, as it is
the source from which the juice is obtained. Such imperfections in
fruits as poor shape or unattractive appearance do not count in this
matter, since only the juice is used; but they must contain jelly-making
properties in order that jelly can be made from them.
Green or slightly unripe fruits are better for jelly making than fruits
that have become ripe. In fact, when in this immature state, fruits may
be used to make jelly, whereas the same fruits, when perfectly ripe,
often will not make jelly at all, or, if they do, will produce a jelly
that is inferior in quality.
11. The chief requirement of fruits that are to be used for jelly
making is that they contain acid and pectin. Pectin is the real
jelly-making property of fruits. When it is in the presence of acid and
combined with the correct proportion of sugar and the combination is
properly boiled, a desirable jelly is the result. Without pectin,
however, it is impossible to make the juice solidify, or jell. Pectin is
closely related to the carbohydrates, but as it does not yield heat
energy nor build tissue, its food value is not considered. In this
respect, it is like the cellulose of fruits and vegetables.
It is because green fruits contain more pectin than do ripe fruits that
they are more suitable for jelly making. The lack of either acid or
pectin need not, however, prevent the making of jelly from fruits, such
as sweet fruits, that contain other jelly-making properties, for either
or both may be supplied from some other source. In other words, jelly
may be made from any fruit that will yield juice and flavor.
EQUIPMENT FOR JELLY MAKING
12. NECESSARY EQUIPMENT.--In the making of jelly, as in the preparation
of many other foods, numerous utensils will be found convenient and may,
if desired, be supplied to make the work easier. However, the necessary
ones are comparatively few in number and, for the most part, are found
in almost every kitchen.
13. KETTLES.--As will be observed, two kettles are required in jelly
making. The larger one is used for cooking the fruit, and the smaller
one, to cook the juice and the sugar. These should have a perfectly
smooth surface, and may be made of almost any material used for such
utensils, except tin or iron. These two metals are undesirable, as they
are liable to lend to the jelly a disagreeable flavor and in all
probability an unattractive color. The one used to cook the fruit should
generally be a little larger than the other. As about 6 glassfuls of
jelly may be cooked at one time, the kettle in which the juice is boiled
should be of adequate size to cook this amount without danger of its
boiling over. When fruit juice and sugar are boiled together, the
mixture often boils up and runs over if the vessel is not large enough.
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14. JELLY BAG.--The jelly bag, which is used for straining the boiled
fruit and thus obtaining the juice, may be a home-made one or, as shown
in the illustration, one that is purchased for the purpose. If the bag
is made at home, a heavy, closely woven material, such as flannel,
should be selected, so as to prevent the tiny particles of fruit from
passing through with the juice. A liquid strained in this manner will be
much clearer and will make better looking jelly than that which has been
run through a coarse material, such as cheesecloth. The juice can be
strained very conveniently if the bag is attached to a wire arrangement,
like the one shown, or to an upright standard that can be fastened to a
chair or a table, for then the bag is held securely over the vessel into
which the juice drips. Sometimes, especially when more than one
extraction of the juice is to be made, the first extraction is made by
means of a strainer or a colander and the juice thus obtained is then
strained through the bag.
15. ADDITIONAL UTENSILS.--As accurate measurements are absolutely
essential in jelly making, a measuring cup should be included in the
equipment. Then, too, a quart measure will be found very convenient,
especially if large quantities of materials are to be cooked at one
time. A large spoon or two for stirring, skimming, and testing should
also be provided. The spoon used for skimming will produce better
results if the bowl contains holes that will permit the juice to drop
back into the vessel, for then none of the juice will be wasted.
16. CONTAINERS FOR JELLY.--Various types of receptacles in which to keep
jelly are in use, some turning out more attractive molds than others.
The shape of the mold, however, is a matter of minor importance. Almost
any wide-mouthed glass receptacle with comparatively smooth sides will
do very well, since the sealing of jelly is not a difficult thing to do.
Therefore, new receptacles should not be purchased if there is a supply
of any suitable kind on hand, for many other containers besides
purchased jelly glasses may be used for this purpose. The most
convenient type, which may be bought in any store selling kitchen
utensils, is that shown in Fig. 1. As will be observed, these are
somewhat broad and not very tall. A mold of jelly turned from a tall,
narrow glass does not stand up so well as that turned from a flat, wide
one. Then, too, a tall glass is much more likely to tip and spill than a
more shallow one.
17. Metal covers that fit the tops of the glasses, like the ones shown,
are the most convenient kind that can be used, but they are not an
absolute necessity. In their place may be used paper caps that fit the
glasses, or the tops of the glasses may be covered with paper and then
tied. Before a cover of any kind is put on a glass, paraffin, several
cakes of which are arranged on a plate in Fig. 1, is melted and poured
in a thin layer over the top of the jelly itself.
To designate the kind of jelly, it is advisable to label the glasses
with neat labels, a box of which is included in the equipment
here shown.
18. Paraffin-covered paper cups have been recommended to take the place
of jelly glasses, and while they do very well in the case of scarcity of
containers they have some disadvantages. In the first place, they can be
used only once, as it is impossible to wash them. In addition, it will
be necessary to wait until the jelly is partly cold before pouring it
into such cups, as hot jelly will melt the paraffin on the surface of
the paper.
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PROCEDURE IN JELLY MAKING
19. When the necessary utensils have been conveniently placed and the
desired fruit has been selected, the housewife may proceed at once to
the work of making jelly. Each step is here outlined in the order in
which it should be taken up in doing the actual work. The entire
procedure should be properly followed out in order to insure the best
results, and every part of the work should be carefully done so as to
avoid any waste of material.
20. COOKING THE FRUIT.--Prepare the fruit in whatever way is necessary.
The preparation needed will depend, of course, on the kind of fruit
selected for the jelly, but usually not so much preparation is needed as
in the case of canning. For instance, when crab-apple jelly is made, the
stems are removed and the fruit is cut into halves or quarters, but they
need not be peeled nor have the seeds taken out. Specific directions for
the different varieties of fruits are given in the various recipes. The
chief precaution to take in preparing the fruit, no matter what kind is
used, is to see that it is thoroughly cleaned.
With the fruit prepared, put it into a large kettle and add enough water
to start the cooking and prevent scorching. Some fruits will require
more water than others, especially when they must be cooked a long time
in order to soften them sufficiently to extract the juice. Juicy fruits,
like plums, need only the minimum amount of water, while drier fruits,
such as apples, require more. Place the kettle on the stove and allow
the fruit to cook until it is soft or is reduced to a pulp. The length
of time for cooking will also depend entirely on the kind of fruit that
is being used.
21. EXTRACTING JUICE.--When the fruit is thoroughly cooked, pour the
pulp and the juice that has formed into the jelly bag and allow it to
drip into a pan placed directly under the bag. Formerly, it was the
custom to let the juice drip until no more remained in the bag. This
method is followed to some extent at present, but it is falling into
disuse, as it is not the most economical way of extracting the juice
from the pulp. More juice can be obtained and more jelly made from the
same amount of fruit if three extractions instead of one are made. Make
the first extraction by pouring the pulp and juice into the bag and
permitting the juice to drip only until it begins to run very slowly.
Then return the pulp to the kettle, add a small quantity of water, and
let it boil again for a few minutes. Pour it the second time into the
jelly bag, and let it drip as before. Cook it the third time in the
same way, and then allow it to drip until all the juice is extracted.
At this point, mix the juice from the three extractions. They should
not be used separately, for they are much different in quality, the
third one being not so good as the second and the second, inferior to
the first. On the other hand, when all three are mixed, an excellent
quality is the result, provided all conditions are correct, and a larger
quantity of juice is obtained for the jelly.
22. The quantity of juice that may be extracted depends on the quality
as well as the kind of fruit. If the season is a rainy one, the fruits
will be found to contain more juice than they would in a dry season.
Then, too, if the fruits are picked immediately after a rain, they will
contain more juice than the same fruits before the rain. The amount of
juice the fruit contains determines, of course, the quantity of water
that should be added in the cooking. If only one extraction is intended,
3 to 4 quarts of water may be used for 8 quarts of fruit, depending on
the kind of fruit; but if three extractions are to be made, less water
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should be added for each extraction. In case the extracted juice
contains more water than it should have, either because the fruit
contains an excessive amount of water or because too much water was
added to the fruit in its cooking, the superfluous water will be
extracted by boiling the juice with the sugar a little longer as the
jelly is being made.
It is not always necessary to have the fleshy part of fruit for jelly
making, for often the skins, seeds, and cores of fruits may be cooked
with water and the juice then extracted from them. Another point to
remember is that the pulp from which the juice is extracted may
sometimes be used for jam or marmalade. If points like these are taken
into consideration, it will not be necessary to waste any part of
edible fruits.
23. TESTING THE JUICE FOR PECTIN.--When the juice has been extracted
from the fruit, it should be tested for pectin in order to determine
whether or not it will be satisfactory for the making of jelly. Into a
tumbler, put a tablespoonful of juice and with this mix a tablespoonful
of alcohol. If, upon adding the alcohol, the fruit juice turns into a
gelatinous, or jelly-like, mass that may be easily gathered up on the
spoon, it may be known that pectin is present. As has already been
stated, the presence of this substance in fruit juice insures the fact
that jelly can be made from the juice.
24. USING JUICE LACKING IN PECTIN.--If, in the test for pectin, the
addition of alcohol to the fruit juice does not turn the juice into a
jelly-like mass, pectin is not present. Such juice, or juice that
contains only a small amount of pectin, will prove unsuccessful in jelly
making unless some substance or juice high in pectin is added to it. The
white skin from the inside of orange, lemon, or grapefruit peelings or
the juice from apples, crab apples, currants, green gooseberries, or
other fruit containing a large quantity of pectin may be used for this
purpose. Also, commercial pectin may be purchased and used with fruits
according to the directions that accompany it.
It is always necessary to supply pectin in some way to such fruits as
strawberries, peaches, raspberries, blueberries, cherries, pears, etc.
To the sweet ones, like peaches and raspberries, lemon juice or other
acid fruit juice also must be added if satisfactory jelly is desired.
25. DETERMINING PROPORTION OF SUGAR.--The only other ingredient used in
jelly making, besides the fruit juice, is sugar. After the juice has
been strained from the fruit, the next step is to determine how much
sugar must be used. This is of extreme importance, as the success of the
jelly depends very largely on whether or not the correct proportion is
used. If too much sugar is added to the juice, a greater quantity of
jelly will result, but it will not stand up as it should when it is
turned out of the glass. On the other hand, if too little sugar is used,
a smaller quantity of jelly than the required amount will be made and it
will be tough and sour.
26. It is difficult to give the exact proportion of sugar to use with
every kind of fruit, for some fruits require more than others. However,
in general, 3/4 cupful of sugar to each cupful of juice will be
sufficient. This is especially true if the season has been a dry one
and the fruits are neither very sour nor very juicy. After a wet season
or with very sour or very juicy fruits, it will usually be necessary to
use 1 cupful of sugar to each cupful of juice.
27. Much waste of sugar and spoiling of jelly can be avoided by the use
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of the test for pectin, which has just been described. After the juice
and the alcohol have been mixed, pour the mixture slowly from the glass,
noting how the pectin is precipitated. If it is precipitated as one
lump, a cupful of sugar may be used for each cupful of juice; if in
several lumps, the proportion of sugar must be reduced to approximately
three-fourths the amount of juice. If the pectin is not in lumps, but is
merely precipitated, the sugar should be one-half or less of the amount
of the juice.
28. To assist in determining the correct proportion of sugar to use in
the making of jelly, the hydrometer, or sirup gauge, which is explained
in Canning and Drying, will be found helpful. After the juice has been
extracted, mix with a small amount of it the proportion of sugar that is
to be used when the jelly is cooked. Allow the sugar to dissolve
completely, pour a little of the mixture into a glass or a graduate, and
insert the hydrometer. Regardless of the kind of juice, the hydrometer
should register 25 degrees for perfect jelly. If it registers less than
25 degrees, more sugar should be added. Then if it is necessary to add
either sugar or juice, the additional ingredient should be carefully
measured in order that the proportions may be correct for the making of
jelly. It must not be understood that a hydrometer is an actual
necessity in the making of jelly, for very good jelly can be made
without measuring the ingredients in this manner. However, if a
hydrometer is not used, it will be necessary to apply the best judgment
possible to the rules given for the proportion of ingredients used in
jelly making.
29. COMBINING THE JUICE AND SUGAR.--The mixing of the juice and the
sugar may seem like a trivial matter, but in reality much is involved in
combining these ingredients properly. It may be done in three different
ways. In the first method, which is called long boiling, the sugar and
the juice are mixed cold and are then allowed to come to the boiling
point together. The second, which is known as mean boiling, consists
in putting the cold juice on the stove, allowing it to boil about half
the required time, and then adding the sugar, which has also been
heated. In the third, which is known as the short-boiling method, the
juice is boiled without the sugar almost the full length of time
required for making the jelly, and the sugar, which has been heated, is
added just before the boiling is completed.
30. Experience in the use of these three methods has shown their
advantages and disadvantages. The first one, or the long-boiling
process, has the disadvantage of losing sugar through the skimming that
is always necessary in the making of jelly. In addition, the long
boiling often causes the sugar to crystallize and thus produces a jelly
that would not score very high. The short boiling is not entirely
satisfactory, because of the difficulty in determining just when to add
the sugar to the juice. The process of mean boiling, having neither of
these drawbacks and usually resulting in jelly of excellent quality, is
the most satisfactory and the one that is recommended.
To carry out this method, place the sugar in a pan in a warm oven or
other place where it will gradually become heated without either melting
or scorching. Put the juice over the fire in a saucepan and let it boil
for 5 to 8 minutes. Then, slowly add the correct proportion of hot
sugar to the boiling juice, stirring constantly so that the sugar will
dissolve as quickly as possible.
31. BOILING THE JUICE AND SUGAR.--The boiling of the juice, both before
and after the sugar is added, should be done rapidly. During this
process, it will be found that a scum will form over the top of the
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juice. This should be skimmed off as it forms, for it is a detriment to
the jelly. Draw a large spoon over the top of the boiling juice from
time to time and skim off the scum that rises, placing it into any
small dish that is handy. It is usually advisable to do as much
skimming as possible before the sugar is added, so that only a minimum
amount of sugar will be lost.
The length of time required to boil the juice after the sugar is added
depends very largely on the way in which the boiling is carried on. If
the mixture is boiled rapidly, less time will, of course, be needed than
if it is boiled slowly. Therefore, no definite time can be set for the
cooking. However, several tests may be resorted to in order to determine
whether the sugar and juice have boiled long enough to jell when the
mixture is cold.
32. TESTING THE JELLY MIXTURE.--The testing of the mixture can be done
in various ways, the one to select depending on the success the
housewife has in using them. A means very often resorted to consists in
dipping a spoonful or two of the mixture out of the kettle and pouring
it on the flat surface of a cold dish. If it is cooked sufficiently, it
will solidify when it is cold and will appear just like jelly. The
disadvantage of this test lies in the fact that the jelly on the stove
continues to boil while the test is being made, and as this takes
several minutes, the jelly is likely to overboil to a considerable
extent. Tests that can be performed more quickly are therefore more
satisfactory.
33. A test that invariably proves successful consists in dipping up a
spoonful of the juice and allowing it to run slowly from the spoon back
into the pan. If a double row of drops forms on the spoon with the last
of the jelly that remains, it may be known that the cooking is finished.
34. Another very satisfactory test is called sheeting. In the
performing of this test, a spoonful of the jelly is dipped from the pan
and then poured from the spoon into the pan again. If it is cooked to
the proper consistency, large drops will form at the edge of the spoon
and break off quickly.
35. FILLING THE GLASSES.--As soon as it has been determined that the
jelly is sufficiently cooked, it should be removed from the stove. The
glasses may then be filled at once. These, together with the covers,
must be thoroughly cleansed before being used, and this can be done
while the jelly is cooking. After being thoroughly washed, submerge them
in a pan of hot water and allow them to remain there until they are to
be used. Keeping them hot in this way will prevent them from cracking
when the hot jelly is poured into them. Take out one glass at a time,
place it on a small plate or any small dish, and pour the hot jelly
into it from the pan to within 1/4 inch of the top. Fill the remaining
glasses in the same way, and then set them somewhere out of a draft to
cool. If, as the jelly cools, it seems to be a little bit thin, place
it somewhere in the sunshine and the heat of the sun will help to
thicken it.
36. CLOSING AND STORING THE JELLY GLASSES.--The jelly should be allowed
to cool completely and should then be closed for storing. The best
results are obtained by putting a thin layer of paraffin over the top of
the jelly in each glass before applying the cover. To do this, put into
a small saucepan as much paraffin as you think will be needed to cover
the jelly you have made and set this on the stove to melt. When it has
melted, pour a layer about 1/8 inch thick over the surface of the
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jelly. As soon as it cools, it will harden and thus form a protective
covering for the jelly. When it is hard, cover the glass in the desired
way. Covers of tin are perhaps the most satisfactory, but if these
cannot be secured, heavy paper covers that fit into the glasses snugly
will answer the purpose very well. In the event of not having covers of
either of these kinds, cover the tops of the glasses with paper--any
good wrapping paper will do--and then tie this paper securely. Just
before putting the jelly away, label each glass with a neat label on
which is written the name of the jelly. Then no difficulty will be
experienced in selecting at once the kind of jelly desired when one is
taking a glass from the place where it is stored.
SCORING JELLY
37. With jelly, as with canned fruit, it is a splendid idea for every
housewife to score each kind she makes, so that she can determine how it
measures up in its various characteristics. If it falls below the
standard, this fact should be known, so that the fault can be remedied
the next time. On the other hand, extreme satisfaction is felt if it is
found to score high. To assist in scoring jelly, a score card is here
given, and following it each one of the characteristics is discussed.
SCORE CARD FOR JELLY
Per Cent.
Color 20
Solidity 25
Flavor 25
Sugar Content 25
Method of Sealing 5
---
Total 100
Color.-For jelly having the proper color, 20 per cent. is given. The
fruit used in the making of jelly determines to a great extent the color
of the finished product, but it is possible to have a very wide
difference in the colors of jelly made from the same fruit. To be right,
jelly should be clear, bright, and not too dark. If the juice is boiled
too long, the jelly will be darker than it should be. If pulp has been
allowed to pass through the jelly bag in straining out the juice, either
through squeezing the bag or using a bag that is too thin, the jelly
will be found to have a cloudy appearance.
Solidity.--When jelly is turned from the glass, it should be firm
enough to stand alone. If it has not been boiled long enough, it will
crush down and perhaps run like sirup. If it is boiled too long or the
proportion of juice to sugar is not correct, it may be tough and
leathery. Jelly whose solidity is correct scores 25 per cent. in
this respect.
Flavor.--The characteristic flavor of the fruit used in making jelly
should be retained as much as possible, and when this is the case 25 per
cent. is given to the product. The flavor of the jelly is therefore
dependent on the flavor of the fruit. In addition, the flavor depends on
the amount of sugar used, the amount of acid in the fruit, and the
length of time consumed by the boiling. Jellies boiled too long will be
strong in flavor.
Sugar Content.--The sugar content of jelly should be determined by the
amount of acid that must be sweetened. An insufficient amount of sugar
will result in tough, sour jelly, while too large a quantity will make
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the jelly taffy-like. The correct amount of sugar, which produces the
right degree of sweetness, receives a score of 25 per cent.
Method of Sealing.--The method of sealing may seem like a matter of
little importance, but if jelly is not sealed properly, it will not be
in good condition when it is to be served. To score in this respect, for
which 5 per cent. is given, the jelly should be covered with paraffin
and then closed with a cover or with paper in order to exclude the
dust and dirt.
RECIPES FOR JELLY
38. Recipes for the kinds of jelly usually made are here given. If the
directions given in the procedure for jelly making are thoroughly
mastered and then applied to these recipes, the housewife will
experience very little difficulty in making any of these varieties.
Other jellies may, without doubt, be made by combining the proper
fruits. All that has to be done in order to determine whether a certain
fruit juice or combination of fruit juices will make jelly is to apply
the test for pectin already explained. Whatever quantity of jelly is
desired may be made, but usually it can be handled best if not more than
6 glassfuls are made at one time.
39. CRAB-APPLE JELLY.--Crab apples are much used for jelly, as they make
a product of good consistency and excellent flavor. Apples may be used
in the same way as crab apples with equally good results.
Wash the apples thoroughly, remove the stems, and cut into quarters.
Make sure that the apples contain no worms. Put them into a kettle, add
about half as much water as apples, and cook slowly until the apples are
soft. Strain the juice through a jelly bag. Before it stops dripping,
return the pulp to the kettle, add half as much water as pulp, and allow
the fruit to cook again. Make a second extraction, and in the same way
make a third one. Then combine the juice, and strain all of it through a
bag to make it clear. Measure 6 or 8 cupfuls of juice, and pour it into
a preserving kettle. Boil for about 5 minutes, straining off the scum
that rises to the top. To each cupful of juice, add 3/4 to 1 cupful of
sugar that has been heated. Crab apples will require 1 cupful of sugar,
but apples milder in flavor will not need more than 3/4 cupful. Boil
until the test shows that it has boiled long enough. Pour into hot
glasses, cool, and seal. Label and then store for later use.
40. CURRANT JELLY.--If jelly having a tart flavor is desired, currant
jelly should be tried. This kind of jelly is especially good to serve
with the heavy course of a meal.
Wash and stem the currants. Put them into a kettle and add about
one-fourth as much water as currants. Boil until the currants are
reduced to a pulp. Pour into a jelly bag and strain. Make at least one
more extraction, and a third extraction if there is a fairly large
quantity of pulp. When all the juice has been strained from the pulp,
strain it again through the bag or a heavy cloth. Measure 6 or 8 cupfuls
of juice into a kettle, boil for about 5 minutes, and then add from
three-fourths to an equal amount of heated sugar. Remove the scum as it
forms, taking off as much as possible before the sugar is added.
Continue to boil until the tests show that the mixture has cooked
sufficiently. Remove from the heat and pour into hot glasses. Cool,
seal, label, and store.
41. GRAPE JELLY.--Thoroughly ripe grapes may be used for jelly, but they
are not so satisfactory for this purpose as grapes that are only partly
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ripe. This is due to the fact that green grapes contain more pectin and,
upon being cooked, produce fewer of the cream-of-tartar crystals usually
found in grape jelly than do ripe ones. The procedure for grape jelly is
the same as that for currant jelly. If ripe grapes are used, 3/4 cupful
of sugar will be needed to each cupful of juice; but if only partly ripe
grapes are used, 1 cupful of sugar will be required for every cupful
of juice.
42. QUINCE JELLY.--Because of its attractive color and delicate flavor,
quince jelly is much favored. The quinces may be used alone, but if a
still more delicate flavor is desired, apples may be added to the
quinces, or the parings and cores of the quinces may be used with apples
or crab apples. To make quince jelly, proceed in the same way as for
apple jelly, using 3/4 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of juice.
43. RASPBERRY JELLY.--Either black or red raspberries may be used for
jelly making. To give jelly made from these fruits a better consistency,
a small quantity of green grape, crab-apple, or currant juice should be
added. The procedure in this case is the same as for currant jelly.
44. STRAWBERRY JELLY.--Unripe strawberries contain a small amount of
pectin, but thoroughly ripe ones are almost lacking in this respect. For
this reason, strawberries cannot be used alone for making jelly. They
make a delicious jelly, however, if currants are combined with them. For
each 5 or 6 quarts of strawberries, 1 quart of currants will be
sufficient to make a jelly of good consistency. Wash and hull the
strawberries and then proceed as for currant jelly.
45. PLUM JELLY.--Plums make a jelly that many persons like. If it is
desired to use plums alone, those which are not thoroughly ripe should
be selected. Ripe plums do not contain enough pectin for jelly;
therefore, a fruit high in pectin, such as crab apples, must be added.
The procedure for currant jelly should be followed for plum jelly.
46. PEACH JELLY.--Peaches contain so little pectin that it is almost
impossible to make jelly of them unless some other fruit is added in
rather large quantities. Currants, crab apples, or green grapes may be
used with peaches, and whichever one is selected will be needed in the
proportion of about 50 per cent.; that is, half as much additional fruit
as peaches is needed. In the making of peach jelly, proceed as for
currant jelly.
47. CANNING FRUIT JUICES FOR JELLY.--During the canning season, when a
great deal of such work is being done, the housewife often feels that
making jelly and preserves is an extravagant use of sugar. Still, fruit
juices left over from canning and large quantities of fruit, such as
crab apples and currants, that are not suitable for other purposes, will
be wasted unless they are used for jelly. If it is not convenient to use
the fruit at the time it is obtained, a good plan is to extract the
juice as for jelly making and then can it. In case this is done, jelly
may be made from the juice during the seasons of the year when less
sugar is required for other things.
48. To can fruit juice, extract it from the fruit as for jelly making
and then bring it to the boiling point. Select bottles or jars that may
be tightly closed, sterilize them, fill them with the boiling juice, and
seal them. Bottles may be used for this purpose if they are well corked
and then dipped into melted sealing wax or paraffin. When properly
sealed, fruit juices will probably keep without any further effort to
preserve them, but to make positively certain that they will not spoil,
it is a wise precaution to process the filled bottles or jars in boiling
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water for about 6 or 8 minutes in the same way in which canned fruit is
processed. When treated in this way, fruit juices will keep perfectly
and may be made into jelly at any time during the winter.
* * * * *
PRESERVING
PRINCIPLES OF PRESERVING
49. PRESERVING consists in preparing fruits in perfect condition to
resist decomposition or change by cooking them in heavy sirup. The
cooking is done so slightly that the original form, flavor, and color of
the fruit are retained as far as possible. This process is similar to
that of canning by the open-kettle method; that is, the fruit and sugar
are combined and cooked to the proper consistency in the preserving
kettle. Sugar is used in such quantity in the preparation of preserves
that it acts as a preservative and prevents bacteria from attacking the
foods in which it is used. If preserves of any kind ferment, it may be
known that not enough sugar was used in their preparation. The
sterilization of the product and the air-tight sealing of the
containers, which are necessary in the canning of fruits and vegetables,
need not be resorted to in the case of preserves.
50. SELECTION OF FRUIT.--When fruit is to be made into preserves, much
attention should be paid to its selection, for, as a rule, only the
finest fruits are used for preserving. This is especially true of the
smaller fruits, such as berries and cherries, for they are preserved
whole. Therefore, in order that they may have a good appearance when
preserved, it is necessary that they be as perfect as possible to begin
with. In addition, the fruit should be thoroughly ripe, but not mushy
nor overripe. As the cooking of the fruits in sirup hardens them to a
certain extent, fruits that are not sufficiently ripe cannot be used,
for they would be too hard when done. If care is used in selecting
fruits that are to be preserved, a good-appearing product will be the
result, since this process is carried on in such a way as not to impair
their shape.
51. METHODS OF PRESERVING.--Several methods of preserving fruit are in
practice, but in general the same principles characterise each one.
Probably the most successful method consists in bringing a certain
proportion of sugar and water to the boiling point, dropping the fruit
into the sirup thus formed, and cooking it for a definite length of
time. Boiling fruits in heavy sirup has a tendency to make them firm and
solid, rather than to cook them to pieces, as would be the case with
water or a thin sirup. Even very soft berries, when used for preserves,
will retain almost their original size and shape if they are properly
cooked. Except for the fact that a heavier sirup is used, the process of
preserving fruit is exactly like that of canning fruit by the
open-kettle method. The chief precaution to take in this method is that
as little water as possible be used, so that the sirup may be very thick
when the fruit is added.
Another method that may be recommended because it helps to keep the
fruit in good condition consists in cooking it in its own juice. In this
method, equal quantities of fruit and sugar are put together and allowed
to stand until enough juice is formed, preferably overnight, so that the
fruit may be cooked without the addition of any water. Strawberries are
excellent when preserved in this way.
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Whichever method is followed, better results will be obtained if only a
few quarts of fruit are cooked at a time. When a large quantity of
berries, for instance, is added to the boiling sirup, they will form
such a thick layer that they will have to remain over the fire a long
time before they come to the boiling point. They will therefore be much
more likely to crush and give the finished product a mushy appearance
than if a smaller quantity, which will form a thinner layer, is cooked
each time.
52. UTENSILS FOR PRESERVING.--The equipment necessary in the making of
preserves is similar to that used for making jelly, with the exception
of the dripping bag and the hydrometer. A good-sized preserving kettle
is, of course, required for the cooking of the fruit and sirup; a
measuring cup and a quart measure are needed for the measuring of the
ingredients; and a long-handled wooden spoon or paddle is the most
convenient utensil with which to stir all foods of this class.
Containers similar to those used for jelly will be satisfactory
receptacles in which to put preserves, but as preserved fruits are not
turned out in a mold, almost any kind of wide-mouthed bottle or jar may
be used for this purpose. Paraffin should also be provided, as this
should always be used for the first covering to prevent the formation of
molds, which are likely to grow on moist sweet substances exposed to the
air. Before using paraffin for preserves, they should be allowed to
stand until the surface has become absolutely dry. It is well to label
preserves, too; so labels should be kept on hand for this purpose.
* * * * *
RECIPES FOR PRESERVED FRUITS
VARIETIES OF PRESERVED FRUITS
53. The several methods of preserving fruits result in considerable
variety in the finished product. Preserves proper are those cooked in
a heavy sirup, either whole or cut into pieces. In addition to being
prepared in this way, fruit may be made into conserve, marmalade, jam,
and butter. Specific directions for the preparation of each one of
these varieties are here given, together with a number of recipes
showing the kinds of fruit most suitable for the different varieties. No
housewife need deprive her family of any of these delicious preparations
if she will familiarize herself with the methods explained and will
follow out minutely the directions given. In the making of the various
kinds of preserves, just as much care must be exercised as in canning
and jelly making if the best results are desired.
PRESERVES
54. STRAWBERRY PRESERVE.--Strawberries selected for preserves should be
of the dark, solid variety, if possible, since these shrink less and
retain their shape and size better than do the lighter varieties. This
fruit is made into preserves probably more often than any other kind,
and this is not strange, for it makes a most delicious preserve.
STRAWBERRY PRESERVE
2 qt. strawberries
1/2 c. hot water
1 lb. sugar
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Clean the strawberries by placing them in a colander and raising and
lowering them into a large pan of water. Remove the hulls and make sure
that all the water is carefully drained from the berries. Add the water
to the sugar and place over the fire in a preserving kettle that has a
smooth surface. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and allow the mixture
to come to a rapid boil. To the rapidly boiling sirup, add the
strawberries by dropping them carefully into it. Allow the fruit to
come to the boiling point in the sirup, and continue to boil for 10 or
12 minutes. If the berries seem to contain an unusual amount of water,
boiling for 15 minutes may be necessary. Remove from the fire and fill
into hot sterilized glasses at once, or set aside to cool. It has been
found that if the preserves are allowed to stand in the kettle
overnight, they will improve in flavor and, because of the absorption of
oxygen, which they lose in boiling, they will increase in size. If the
preserves are treated in this way, it will be necessary to pour them
cold into the sterilized glasses. When the preserves in the glasses are
cold, pour melted paraffin over them. Cover them with metal or paper
covers, label, and store for future use.
55. CHERRY PRESERVE.--If sour cherries can be secured, an excellent
preserve can be made of them. Cherries should, of courser be seeded, or
pitted, when they are prepared in this way.
CHERRY PRESERVE
2 qt. seeded sour cherries
1 c. hot water
1-1/2 lb. sugar
Drain off the superfluous juice from the cherries. Add the hot water to
the sugar in a preserving kettle, and allow the mixture to come to a
boil. Add the cherries and boil for 10 or 12 minutes. Have hot
sterilized jelly glasses ready and fill with the hot preserves. Allow
the preserves to cool, cover first with paraffin and then with metal or
paper covers, and label.
56. RASPBERRY PRESERVE.--Although red raspberries are a rather soft
fruit, they can be used very well for preserves if care is taken not to
break them into pieces by too long cooking or too rapid boiling.
RASPBERRY PRESERVE
2 qt. red raspberries
3/4 c. hot water
1 lb. sugar
Wash the raspberries by placing them in a colander and raising and
lowering them in a large pan of cold water. Mix the hot water with the
sugar in a preserving kettle, place the mixture over the fire and bring
to the boiling point. Add the raspberries to the boiling sirup, and when
they have come to the boiling point, cook for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove
the hot preserves from the fire and pour into hot sterilized jars. Allow
them to cool, seal with paraffin and metal or paper covers, and label.
57. PLUM PRESERVE.--A very rich, tart preserve can be made by cooking
plums in a thick sirup. Those who care for the flavor of plums will find
preserves of this kind very much to their taste.
PLUM PRESERVE
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2 qt. plums
1 c. hot water
1-1/2 lb. sugar
Select any variety of plums desired for preserves, and wash them in cold
water. Cut them in half and remove the seeds. Place the hot water and
the sugar in a preserving kettle, and bring to a rapid boil. Add the
plums and boil slowly for 15 minutes. Remove from the fire, pour into
hot sterilized jelly glasses. Allow them to cool and cover first with
paraffin and then with metal or paper covers. Before storing, label each
glass neatly.
58. QUINCE PRESERVE.--Quinces combined with apples make a preserve that
finds favor with many. As shown in the accompanying recipe, about
one-third as many apples as quinces make the required proportion.
QUINCE PRESERVE
3 qt. quinces, peeled and quartered
1 qt. apples, peeled and quartered
1-1/2 c. hot water
3 lb. sugar
Select well-ripened quinces. Rub the fuzz from the skin with a cloth,
and then wash, peel, quarter, and core. If desired, they may be sliced,
but they are very nice when preserved in quarters. Select firm apples,
wash, peel, quarter, and core them, and cut them the same size as the
quinces. Add the water to the sugar, place the mixture over the fire in
a preserving kettle, and let it come to a boil. Add the quinces, cook
until tender, and remove from the sirup. Then cook the apples in the
sirup in the same way, and when tender remove from the sirup. Place the
fruits in alternate layers in hot jars. Unless the sirup is very thick,
boil it until it becomes heavy; then fill each jarful of fruit with this
sirup. Seal with paraffin, cover with metal or paper covers, and label.
59. PEACH PRESERVE.--Although somewhat bland in flavor, peaches make an
excellent preserve. Some persons prefer them cut into very small slices,
while others like them preserved in large slices.
PEACH PRESERVE
4 qt. peaches
1-1/2 c. hot water
3 lb. sugar
Select firm peaches. Wash, pare, and cut into slices of any desirable
size. Add the water to the sugar in a preserving kettle, place over the
fire, and allow the mixture to come to a rapid boil. Drop the sliced
peaches into the sirup and cook until tender. Have hot sterilized jars
ready, fill with the hot preserves, and seal with paraffin. Cover in the
desired way and label.
CONSERVES
60. CONSERVES do not differ materially from preserves in their
preparation, but they usually consist of a mixture of two or more
fruits, whereas preserves are made from a single fruit. All rules that
govern the making of preserves apply equally well to the making of
conserves.
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There are certain fruits that combine very well as far as flavor, color,
etc. are concerned, and these are generally used together in the
preparation of this food. However, almost any combination of fruits may
be made into conserves. This is therefore a very good way in which to
utilize small quantities of left-over fruits. Then, too, a cheap
material may be combined with a more expensive one to make a larger
quantity of a moderately priced product, as, for instance, rhubarb and
pineapple. Again, the pulp from which juice has been extracted for jelly
may be used to make conserve. In fact, a little ingenuity on the part of
the housewife and familiarity with general preserving methods will
enable her to make many kinds of excellent conserves, even though she
may not have a definite rule or recipe to cover the use of the
particular material that happens to be on hand.
61. STRAWBERRY-AND-PINEAPPLE CONSERVE.--The combination of strawberries
and pineapple is an excellent one. The accompanying recipe shows how to
combine these fruits to make a most appetizing conserve.
STRAWBERRY-AND-PINEAPPLE CONSERVE
2 qt. strawberries
1 large pineapple
1 c. hot water
2-1/2 lb. sugar
Prepare the strawberries as for canning. Peel and slice the pineapple,
remove the eyes, and cut into small pieces. Add the water to the sugar
in a preserving kettle, and allow it to come to a boil. Drop the pieces
of pineapple into the sirup and cook them until they are tender. To this
add the strawberries and cook for 5 or 10 minutes longer. The conserve
should then be sufficiently cooked to put into the jars. If the juice
seems too thin, fill the jars, which should be hot sterilized ones,
about three-fourths full of the fruit, and then return the sirup to the
heat and boil it until it is the right consistency. Remove the boiling
sirup from the stove, and pour it over the fruit in the jars until they
are full. Allow the conserve to cool, and then seal, first with paraffin
and then with metal or paper covers. Label each glass and set away for
future use.
62. STRAWBERRY-AND-RHUBARB CONSERVE.--Rhubarb combines very well with
either strawberries or pineapple. The accompanying recipe is for
strawberries and rhubarb, but if pineapple is desired, it may be
substituted for the strawberries in the same quantity.
STRAWBERRY-AND-RHUBARB CONSERVE
2 qt. strawberries
1-1/2 qt. rhubarb
1-1/2 c. hot water
3 lb. sugar
Prepare the strawberries as for canning. Cut the rhubarb, which should
be very tender, into cubes without removing the skin. Add the water to
the sugar, and bring to a rapid boil in a preserving kettle. Put the
rhubarb and strawberries into this sirup, and cook for at least 15
minutes. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, and when cool seal in the
usual way. Label and store.
63. PINEAPPLE-AND-APRICOT CONSERVE.--No more delicious conserve can be
made than pineapple-and-apricot conserve. The tartness of the apricots
gives a flavor that is pleasing to most persons.
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PINEAPPLE-AND-APRICOT CONSERVE
2 qt. apricots
1 large pineapple
1 c. hot water
2-1/2 lb. sugar
Wash the apricots, plunge them into boiling water to remove the skins,
and then cut into quarters. Peel and slice the pineapple, remove the
eyes, and cut into cubes. Add the water to the sugar in a preserving
kettle, and bring to the boiling point. Add the pineapple to the sirup,
and cook until tender. Then drop in the apricots and boil several
minutes longer. Have hot sterilized glasses ready, fill them with the
conserve, and when cool seal in the usual way. Before putting the
glasses away, label each one neatly.
64. CRAB-APPLE-AND-ORANGE CONSERVE.--It is a good idea to make
crab-apple-and-orange conserve at the same time that crab-apple jelly is
made, for the pulp that remains after extracting the juice may be
utilized for the conserve. However, if it is desired to make it at some
other time, fresh pulp can be prepared for the purpose.
CRAB-APPLE-AND-ORANGE CONSERVE
1 qt. crab-apple pulp
3 lb. sugar
8 oranges
To the crab-apple pulp, add the sugar, and place over the fire to boil.
Peel the oranges, scoop out the white portion from the peelings, cut the
peelings into thin strips, and add to the crab-apple pulp. Remove the
pulp of the orange from the skins and from between the sections, cut it
into small pieces, and add to the boiling mixture a few minutes before
it is removed from the stove. When it has cooked thick, pour into hot
sterilized glasses. Cool and then seal and label.
65. PLUM CONSERVE.--A rather unusual conserve is made by combining
raisins and English walnut meats with plums. The accompanying recipe
gives directions for the preparation of this conserve.
PLUM CONSERVE
4 qt. plums
1 c. hot water
2 lb. sugar
1 lb. raisins
2 c. English walnut meats
Wash the plums, cut them in half, and remove the seeds. Add the water to
the sugar, place over the fire in a preserving kettle, and stir until
the mixture comes to a rapid boil. Wash the raisins, which should be
seeded, add them with the plums to the sirup, and cook until the mixture
is the consistency of jelly. Just before removing from the stove, add
the nut meats. Pour the mixture into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal,
and label. If very sour plums are used, increase the amount of sugar.
66. CHERRY-AND-PINEAPPLE CONSERVE.--Cherries combine very well with
pineapple in a conserve. Sweet cherries should, if possible, be used for
this purpose.
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CHERRY-AND-PINEAPPLE CONSERVE
2 qt. sweet cherries
1 pineapple
2 lb. sugar
1 c. hot water
Wash, stem, and seed the cherries. Slice and peel the pineapple and
remove the eyes. Put the sugar and water over the fire in a preserving
kettle, and stir until the sirup comes to the boiling point. To this
sirup add the pineapple and the cherries and cook until the juice is
very thick. Pour into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
67. RED-RASPBERRY-AND-CURRANT CONSERVE.--A conserve having a very
attractive color and a most appetizing flavor is made by combining red
raspberries with red currants.
RED-RASPBERRY-AND-CURRANT CONSERVE
3 qt. red raspberries
1 qt. red currants
1 c. hot water
2-1/2 lb. sugar
Look the raspberries over carefully, and remove any that show signs of
spoiling. Wash the currants and stem them. Add the water to the sugar
and put the mixture over the fire to boil. Add the currants to this, and
stir until the mixture comes to the boiling point. Boil for several
minutes, or until the mixture begins to thicken, and then add the red
raspberries. Continue to boil for 2 or 3 minutes longer. Pour into hot
sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
68. CARROT CONSERVE.--Conserve made from carrots will be found to be
surprisingly delicious, and it has the added advantage of being
inexpensive.
CARROT CONSERVE
1-1/2 qt. cooked cut carrots
Rind of 2 lemons
5 c. sugar
2 c. hot water
Juice of 3 lemons
Boil the carrots until tender and chop or put through a grinder with the
lemon rind. Then mix with the sugar, water, and lemon juice, and boil
for about 1/2 hour or until thick. Put into hot sterilized glasses,
cool, seal, and label.
MARMALADES
69. MARMALADES are a form of preserves that differ from the other
varieties more in the nature of the fruit used than in any other
respect. For marmalades, large fruits are generally used, and, as a
rule, the fruits are left in sections or in comparatively large pieces.
The preparation of this food, however, differs in no way from preserves
proper and conserves, the processes of cooking, sealing, storing, etc.
being practically the same.
70. ORANGE MARMALADE.--Oranges combined with half as many lemons make a
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marmalade that most persons like. In fact, orange marmalade is probably
made more often than any other kind.
ORANGE MARMALADE
12 oranges
6 lemons
1-1/2 qt. hot water
5 lb. sugar
Peel the oranges and the lemons in the same way an apple would be
peeled, inserting the knife deep enough to cut through the skin covering
the sections. Remove the contents of the sections and squeeze out any
juice that may remain in the thin skin. Remove the white material from
the inside of the peeling, and cut the yellow portion that remains into
thin strips. Add the water to the skins and simmer slowly for 1 hour. At
the end of this time, add the sugar and the orange and the lemon pulp,
and boil until the mixture is thick. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses,
cool, and then seal and label.
71. ORANGE-AND-RHUBARB MARMALADE.--If a somewhat different flavor is
desired in a marmalade, rhubarb instead of lemons may be used with
oranges, as shown in the accompanying recipe.
ORANGE-AND-RHUBARB MARMALADE
8 oranges
1 qt. hot water
4 lb. sugar
3 qt. rhubarb cut into pieces
Prepare the oranges as for orange marmalade. Slowly cook the yellow part
of the skin in 1 quart of water for 1/2 hour. To this add the sugar and
the rhubarb, and cook slowly until it is quite thick. Stir in the orange
pulp and cook until the mixture is again thick. Pour into hot sterilized
glasses, cool, seal, and label.
72. QUINCE MARMALADE.--Quinces cut into quarters, cooked, and then
forced through a sieve make an exceptionally good marmalade, so far as
both flavor and color are concerned. No other fruit need be used with
the quinces, as they have enough flavor in themselves.
QUINCE MARMALADE
4 qt. quartered quinces
1 qt. hot water
4 lb. sugar
Wipe the fuzz from the quinces, wash, quarter, and remove the cores, but
do not peel. Put over the fire in a preserving kettle with the water.
Cook until the quinces are soft, remove from the fire, and mash through
a sieve. Add the sugar to the quince pulp, replace on the fire, and
cook until the mixture is thick, stirring constantly to prevent burning.
Pour into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
73. GRAPE MARMALADE.--The pulp and skins of grapes are especially
satisfactory for marmalade. In fact, most persons who are fond of grapes
find marmalade of this kind very appetizing.
GRAPE MARMALADE
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4 qt. stemmed grapes
2 c. hot water
3 lb. sugar
Separate the pulp of the grapes from the skins, put it into a preserving
kettle with the water, and heat to the boiling point. Cook slowly until
the seeds can be separated from the pulp, and then remove the seeds by
pressing the pulp through a sieve. Return to the preserving kettle with
the grape skins. Add the sugar, and cook the mixture slowly until it is
thick, stirring constantly to prevent scorching. Care must be taken not
to cook it too long, as the marmalade becomes quite stiff. Pour into
hot, sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
74. ORANGE-AND-PINEAPPLE MARMALADE.--No better combination can be
secured than oranges and pineapple. To make marmalade, both fruits are
cut into small pieces and then cooked in a thick sirup.
ORANGE-AND-PINEAPPLE MARMALADE
8 oranges
2 c. hot water
2 pineapples
4 lb. sugar
Wash the oranges, cut skins and all into small pieces, remove the seeds,
and boil slowly in the water until the skins are soft. Prepare the
pineapples by peeling them, removing the eyes, and then shredding or
cutting into very small pieces. Add the pineapple to the orange, stir in
sugar, and continue to boil until the juice is at the jelly stage. Pour
into hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
JAMS
75. JAM is similar to preserves, except that the fruit used is made into
a pulp before it is cooked with the sugar or after a part of the cooking
is done. As a rule, only whole small fruits are used for jams, but the
larger fruits can be utilized for this purpose by being cut fine and
made into a pulp. When small fruits are used, part or all of the seeds
are sometimes removed, but generally the seeds are allowed to remain if
they are not too large. Jam is made thick by long boiling, and when done
is usually quite smooth. A precaution, however, that should always be
taken is not to cook it too long, for jam is very unappetizing if it is
too thick.
Fruit may be purchased purposely for jam, but for the most part, this
form of preserve is made of imperfect or very ripe fruits that are not
suitable for canning, preserves, and other processes that require almost
perfect fruit. If this point is kept in mind, it will be possible,
during the canning season, to make into a delicious jam fruit that would
otherwise be wasted.
76. STRAWBERRY JAM.--As strawberries have very small seeds, this fruit
makes an excellent jam.
STRAWBERRY JAM
4 qt. strawberries
2 lb. sugar
Wash and hull the strawberries. Then mash them in a preserving kettle
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and add the sugar to them. Place over the fire, and boil slowly until
the mixture becomes thick, stirring frequently to prevent the jam from
sticking to the kettle and scorching. When the jam is cooked to the
proper consistency, the juice should test as for jelly. Pour the mixture
into hot sterilized glasses, cool, and then seal and label.
77. RASPBERRY JAM.--Both red and black raspberries are much used for
jam. Some persons like to remove the seeds from raspberry jam, but as
very little pulp remains after the seeds are taken out, this plan is not
recommended.
RASPBERRY JAM
4 qt. raspberries
2 lb. sugar
Look over the raspberries carefully and then wash. Put them into a
preserving kettle with the sugar. Heat to the boiling point, and cook
slowly for a few minutes. Then mash the berries to a pulp, and continue
to cook until the mixture thickens and the juice tests as for jelly.
Pour into hot sterilized jars, cool, seal, and label.
78. GREEN-GAGE JAM.--Green gages make a smooth, tart jam that appeals to
most persons. The seeds of the plums are, of course, removed, but the
skins are allowed to remain in the jam.
GREEN-GAGE JAM
4 qt. green-gage plums
4 lb. sugar
1-1/2 c. hot water
Wash the plums, cut them in half, and remove the seeds, but not the
skins. Dissolve the sugar in the water over the fire, and when it comes
to the boiling point, add the plums. Cook slowly until the plums are
mushy and the entire mixture is thick. Pour into sterilized glasses,
cool, seal, and label. If sweet plums are used, decrease the quantity
of sugar.
79. GOOSEBERRY JAM.--When gooseberries are well ripened, they make very
good jam. As this fruit is rather tart, considerable sugar must be used
if a sweet jam is desired.
GOOSEBERRY JAM
4 qt. gooseberries
3 lb. sugar
Remove the stems and blossom ends from the gooseberries and wash
thoroughly. Add the sugar to the berries in a preserving kettle. Bring
to a rapid boil, cook for a few minutes, and then mash the berries to a
pulp. Cook until the mixture thickens and tests as for jelly. Pour into
hot sterilized glasses, cool, seal, and label.
80. BLACKBERRY JAM.--Probably no jam is so well liked as that made from
blackberries. Some varieties of these are large in size and contain
considerable pulp in proportion to seeds. These are especially
suitable for jam.
BLACKBERRY JAM
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4 qt. blackberries
1/2 c. hot water
2 lb. sugar
Wash the berries thoroughly, and put them over the fire with the water.
Bring to the boiling point, and boil slowly for a few minutes. Then mash
the berries, add the sugar, and cook the mixture until, when tested, it
is of a jelly-like consistency. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses, cool,
and label.
BUTTERS
81. FRUIT BUTTERS are a form of preserves similar to jams, and are used
in the place of preserves, jams, conserves, or marmalades. The fruit
used for this purpose, which may be either large or small, is usually
very ripe and somewhat soft. Therefore, as in the case of jams,
imperfect fruits that are not suitable for other purposes can be used
very well for butters.
Butters made from fruits differ from jams in that both the skins and
seeds are always removed. The completed mixture is smooth and thick,
having been made thick by long boiling and evaporation, rather than by
the addition of large quantities of sugar. In fact, less sugar is used
for butters proportionately than for any other preserved fruit. Spices
are generally used in butters, so that the mixture is very
highly flavored.
To prevent butters from scorching, they should be stirred constantly for
a long period of time. This stirring becomes very tiresome, but it
should not be stopped or the mixture is certain to scorch. If they are
properly cooked, butters keep well with very little care in storage.
Crocks are generally used for the storage of butters, but glasses or
jars may be substituted.
82. APPLE BUTTER.--Apples are very often made into butter, but for this
purpose sour apples that will cook soft should be selected. If the
procedure explained in the accompanying recipe is followed, very good
results may be expected.
APPLE BUTTER
4 qt. apples
8 qt. cider
1 lb. sugar
3 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
1 tsp. allspice
Peel the apples and quarter them. Boil the cider until it is reduced
half. Add the apples to the cider, and cook slowly for about 3 hours, or
until they are mushy, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon to prevent
the apples from sticking to the bottom of the kettle. At the end of this
time, the mixture should be thick and smooth and dark in color. If it
gets too thick, more cider can be added. About 1 hour before the cooking
is completed, add the sugar and the spices. Even greater care must be
exercised from this time on to prevent scorching. If, after cooking 3
hours, the mixture is not sufficiently thick, continue to cook until
more of the moisture is evaporated. Have hot sterilized glasses or
crocks ready, fill them with the butter, cool, and seal.
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83. PEACH BUTTER.--Peaches are especially satisfactory when made into
butter. This fruit does not require such long cooking as apples, as will
be seen in the accompanying recipe.
PEACH BUTTER
4 qt. peaches
1 c. hot water
1 lb. sugar
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. cloves
Wash the peaches, rub them to remove the fuzz, cut them in half, and
take out the seeds. Measure the peaches and put them with the water
into the preserving kettle, bring them to a boil, and cook until they
are thoroughly softened. Then press them through a sieve or a colander,
return the pulp to the preserving kettle, and add the sugar and the
spices. Cook slowly for 1 or 2 hours, or until it has become a rich
dark, clear color. Pour the butter into hot sterilized glasses or
crocks, cool, and seal.
84. PEAR BUTTER.--An appetizing fruit butter can be made from pears in
the same way that peach butter is made.
PEAR BUTTER
4 qt. pears, quartered
2 c. hot water
1 lb. sugar
2 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
Wash, cut, and core the pears, but do not peel them. Cut them into
quarters, and put the quarters into a preserving kettle with the water.
Bring to the boiling point, and boil until soft or mushy. Remove from
the kettle and force through a sieve or a colander. To the pulp, add the
sugar and spices, return to the kettle, and cook slowly for about 2
hours, stirring constantly to prevent scorching. If 2 hours is not
sufficient to cook the mixture dry, cook a little longer. Pour into hot
sterilized glasses or jars, cool, and seal.
85. PLUM BUTTER.--Another very good way in which to preserve plums for
future use is to make butter of them. The accompanying recipe explains
the correct procedure for butter of this kind.
PLUM BUTTER
4 qt. plums
1 c. hot water
3 lb. sugar
2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. cloves
Wash the plums, cut them in half, and remove the seeds. Put the plums
with the water into a preserving kettle, and boil until they are soft.
Press them through a sieve or a colander, return to the preserving
kettle, and add the sugar and spices. Boil until the mixture is thick
and jelly-like, stirring constantly to prevent scorching. Pour into hot
sterilized crocks or glasses, cool, and seal. If very sour plums are
used, increase the amount of sugar.
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* * * * *
PICKLING
PRINCIPLES OF PICKLING
86. PICKLING consists in preserving fruits and vegetables in vinegar or
brine. Each of these liquids acts as a preservative, so that the
receptacles, or containers, for the food do not have to be sealed
air-tight, nor does the preserved food require much care in order to
have it keep perfectly.
The effect of the pickling liquids on both fruits and vegetables is very
similar. The salt in the brine or the vinegar hardens the cellulose of
the foods to such an extent that they are impervious to the action of
bacteria. While this permits the foods to keep well, it also makes them
difficult to digest, a fact that must be remembered when pickled foods
are included in the diet.
87. The procedure in pickling is simple. After the fruit or vegetable is
cleaned and prepared in the way desired, it is merely a matter of
placing the food in sterilized jars or crocks, pouring the hot
preserving liquid over it, allowing it to cool, and then storing it. In
some cases the food is cooked, and in others it is not. As a rule,
spices of some kind or other are added, both to aid in preserving and to
impart flavor.
88. Practically all large fruits and many vegetables are pickled, as is
shown in the recipes that follow. Foods preserved by pickling are known
as either pickles or relishes. While both products are similar in
many respects, relishes are distinguished from pickles in that, as a
rule, they are made up from more than one kind of fruit or vegetable and
usually the pieces are cut or chopped and not put up whole. Often the
foods in relishes are chopped or cut so fine as to make it almost
impossible to tell what the fruit or vegetable was originally.
The food value of both these products is not extremely high, unless a
great quantity of sugar is used in the pickling. This is sometimes the
case with pickled peaches or pears, but seldom if ever with pickled
vegetables.
* * * * *
RECIPES FOR PICKLING
PICKLES
89. SMALL CUCUMBER PICKLES.--Perhaps the most common pickles are small
cucumbers pickled according to the accompanying recipe. Such pickles
meet with favor and serve very well as appetizers. The cucumbers
selected should be small, so that they will be solid all the
way through.
SMALL CUCUMBER PICKLES
1 gal. water
4 c. coarse salt
200 small cucumbers
1/2 gal. vinegar
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1-1/2 tsp. celery seed
1 lb. light-brown sugar
1/2 tsp. mustard seed
1 tsp. salt
1 oz. stick cinnamon
1 tsp. whole cloves
Make a brine of the water and the coarse salt, pour it over the
cucumbers, and allow them to stand for 24 hours. At the end of this
time, pour off the brine, wash the pickles in cold water, and place them
into crocks. Heat the vinegar, add the celery seed, sugar, mustard seed,
salt, cinnamon, and cloves, and bring the mixture to the boiling point.
Pour this over the pickles in the crocks, cover closely while hot, and
place in storage. If the pickles are desired sweet, add more brown sugar
to the mixture.
90. SLICED-CUCUMBER PICKLES.--Large cucumbers cut into slices may be
pickled in practically the same way as small cucumbers. At times, when
small cucumbers are hard to get, large cucumbers will take their place
very well. In fact, some housewives prefer sliced cucumber pickles to
the small ones.
SLICED-CUCUMBER PICKLES
1 gal. sliced cucumbers
1 c. coarse salt
1-1/2 qt. vinegar
1 pt. water
1 tsp. pepper
3 tsp. mustard
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
4 onions, chopped
1 c. brown sugar
1 Tb. salt
Select rather large cucumbers. Wash and peel them and cut into 1/4-inch
slices. Sprinkle well with salt, and mix the salt among the layers of
cucumbers. Allow this to stand for 24 hours; then drain and wash in
clear cold water. To the vinegar and water add the spices, onion,
sugar, and salt. Heat this to the boiling point, pour over the sliced
cucumbers, and pack them into jars or crocks. Seal while hot and store.
91. CUCUMBERS IN BRINE.--Cucumbers may also be preserved in brine,
stored, and pickled in vinegar later in any quantity, as desired.
Pour 1 gallon of boiling water over 4 cupfuls of coarse salt. This
should make brine that is heavy enough to support an egg. Wash cucumbers
of any desired size, put them into a sterilized crock, in layers, and
pour the brine, which has been allowed to cool, over the cucumbers until
they are entirely covered. Cover the top of the crock well and store.
Cucumbers preserved in this way may be taken from the brine at any time
and pickled. To do this, soak them in fresh water to remove the salty
taste. The fresh water may have to be poured off and replaced several
times. After they have been freshened sufficiently, pickle them in
vinegar and season them in any desirable way.
92. PICKLED BEANS.--String beans that are pickled make a good relish to
serve with meals. Unlike cucumbers that are pickled, the beans are
cooked before the preserving liquid is added. The accompanying recipe is
for either wax or green beans.
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PICKLED BEANS
4 qt. beans
1-1/2 qt. vinegar
1 c. brown sugar
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
1 tsp. allspice
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
Select large, firm, tender wax or green beans. Cover them with water to
which has been added 1 level teaspoonful of salt to each quart and put
them over the fire to cook. Boil the beans until they can be pierced
with a fork, remove from the fire, drain, and pack into jars or crocks.
To the vinegar add the sugar, salt, and spices. Bring this mixture to
the boiling point, and pour it over the beans in the jars or crocks,
filling them completely or covering the beans well. Close tight
and store.
93. PICKLED BEETS.--Pickled beets meet with much favor as a relish. Like
pickled beans, they must be cooked before they can be pickled; also,
unless they are very small, they should be sliced before pickling as the
recipe points out.
PICKLED BEETS
4 qt. red beets
2 qt. vinegar
2 c. brown sugar
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
1 tsp. allspice
Cut the tops from the red beets, leaving 1 inch of the stems and the
roots attached. Scrub well with a vegetable brush, and put to cook in
boiling water. Cook until the beets are tender enough to be pierced with
a fork. Pour off the hot water and run cold water over them. Remove the
roots and stems, and cut into slices of any desired thickness or into
dice, if preferred. Pack into jars or crocks. Then bring the vinegar to
a boil, and to it add the sugar, salt, and spices. Pour this hot mixture
over the beets. Seal the beets while hot, cool, and store.
94. PICKLED CAULIFLOWER.--Cauliflower is another vegetable that lends
itself well to pickling. This food must be cooked, too, before pickling;
and to have it just right for packing into the containers, it requires
particular attention in cooking.
PICKLED CAULIFLOWER
4 qt. cauliflower broken into pieces
2 c. brown sugar
1 Tb. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
1 qt. vinegar
1 pt. water
Select firm heads of cauliflower and break them into sections or
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flowerets. Immerse these in cold water to which has been added 1
teaspoonful of salt to the quart. Allow the cauliflower to stand for 1
hour in the salt water. Remove from the water, and put over the fire to
cook in salt water of the same proportion as that used for soaking. Cook
until the cauliflower is quite tender, but not so tender as it would be
cooked to serve at the table. If this is done, the cauliflower will
darken and break into pieces. It should be firm enough not to crush or
break easily when it is packed into the jars. When properly cooked, pack
closely into jars, add the sugar, salt, and pepper to the vinegar and
water, heat to the boiling point, and pour this liquid over the
cauliflower, completely covering it. Seal while hot, allow to cool,
and store.
95. PICKLED ONIONS.--Pickled onions are well liked by many. For pickling
purposes, medium small onions of uniform size are most suitable. Owing
to their nature, onions cannot be pickled so quickly as some of the
vegetables mentioned, but, otherwise, the work is done in practically
the same way.
PICKLED ONIONS
4 qt. onions
2 qt. spiced vinegar
Select onions that are as nearly the same size as possible. Peel them
and let them stand in fresh water for 24 hours. Pour off this water, and
over the onions pour a brine made by adding 2 cupfuls of salt to each
gallon of water. Allow them to stand in this brine for 3 days, changing
the brine once during this time. Remove the onions from the brine, and
freshen in cold water for 2 hours. Drain the onions and cook them in the
spiced vinegar for 1/2 hour. Any of the spiced vinegars given for the
other vegetables may be used. After cooking, pack the onions with the
liquid into jars, seal, cool, and store.
96. PICKLED PEACHES.--Among the fruits that may be pickled, peaches seem
to meet with great favor. They, as well as pickled pears and pickled
crab apples, make a relish that adds variety to the foods that are
served in the home from day to day. The pickling process does not differ
materially from that applied to vegetables, as the accompanying
recipe shows.
PICKLED PEACHES
2 lb. brown sugar
1 qt. vinegar
1 oz. stick cinnamon
4 qt. peaches
2 Tb. cloves
Boil the sugar, vinegar, and cinnamon together until they begin to look
sirupy. Wash the peaches and rub off the fuzz. Stick one or two cloves
into each peach, and drop the peaches into the sirup. Cook them until
they may be easily pierced with a fork. Put them into jars, pour the
sirup over them, filling each jar, and seal while hot. Allow the jars to
cool and store. The peaches may be peeled if desired. It may also be
more convenient to cook only part of the peaches in the sirup at one
time, cooking the remainder after these have been taken out and put
into jars.
97. PICKLED PEARS.--Pears also lend themselves readily to pickling.
Specific directions are not given here, because they are pickled in
101 / 211
exactly the same way as peaches. The pears may be peeled or not,
as desired.
98. PICKLED CRAB APPLES.--Crab apples that are to be pickled should
preferably be of a large variety. The directions given for pickling
peaches apply also to this fruit. The crab apples should be examined
carefully to make certain that they contain no worms. Also, the stems
should be left on, and they should be washed thoroughly with the blossom
ends cut out.
RELISHES
99. MUSTARD PICKLES.--Among the relishes, mustard pickles are very
popular. This relish is made up of a large number of vegetables, namely,
cucumbers, string beans, green peppers, red sweet peppers, onions, green
tomatoes, cauliflower, and green Lima beans.
MUSTARD PICKLES
1 pt. small cucumbers
1 qt. string beans
4 green peppers
4 red sweet peppers
1 pt. small onions
1 pt. green tomatoes
1 pt. cauliflower
1 c. green Lima beans
3/4 c. flour
2 c. sugar
4 Tb. powdered mustard
2 tsp. tumeric
1 Tb. celery seed
1 Tb. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
1 qt. vinegar
1 pt. water
Wash all the vegetables and prepare them by cutting them into the
desired sizes. The onions and cucumbers should be of a size that will
not require cutting. Put all the vegetables together, cover them with
salt water made by adding 1 cupful of salt to each 2 quarts of water,
and allow them to stand in this for 24 hours. At the end of this time,
drain off the brine and freshen the vegetables in clear water for about
2 hours. Mix the dry ingredients together, heat the vinegar and water,
and pour it over all. Bring this mixture to the boiling point, and pour
it over the vegetables. Fill the jars with the hot mixture, seal, cool,
and store.
100. SPANISH RELISH.--Another satisfactory relish made up of a large
number of vegetables and spices is Spanish relish. In its preparation,
however, the vegetables are not chopped very fine.
SPANISH RELISH
12 green sweet peppers
12 red sweet peppers
12 medium-sized onions
12 green tomatoes
2 medium-sized heads of cabbage
1 tsp. salt
102 / 211
1 lb. brown sugar
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1/4 tsp. Cayenne pepper
1 Tb. mustard seed
1 tsp. celery seed
1-1/2 qt. vinegar
Wash the vegetables and chop them into coarse pieces. Cover them with
salt water made by adding 1 cupful of salt to a gallon of water and
allow them to stand in this brine for 6 to 8 hours. At the end of this
time, drain off the salt water and wash with clear water. Add the salt,
sugar, and spices to the vinegar, and bring this mixture to the boiling
point. Then pour it over the mixture of vegetables, pack all into
sterilized crocks or jars, seal, cool, and store.
101. CHOW CHOW.--Still another relish in which a variety of vegetables
is used is chow chow. This relish is well and favorably known to
housewives for the zest it imparts to meals.
CHOW CHOW
2 qt. small green tomatoes
6 green peppers
6 red peppers
1 small head of cabbage
2 bunches celery
1 pt. small onions
1 qt. small cucumbers
3 qt. vinegar
1 Tb. salt
2 c. brown sugar
1/2 tsp. black pepper
2 Tb. mustard seed
2 Tb. tumeric
2 Tb. allspice
1 Tb. cloves
1 Tb. cinnamon
Wash the vegetables and cut them into very small pieces. Cover them with
salt water made by adding 1 cupful of salt to a gallon of water, and let
them stand in this for 6 to 8 hours. Drain at the end of this time, and
wash with cold water. Heat the vinegar, and to it add the salt, sugar,
and spices. Add this to the vegetables and cook until they are soft.
Pack into sterilized jars, seal while hot, cool, and store.
102. BEET RELISH.--A relish in which cooked beets are the principal
ingredient may be made up from the accompanying recipe. As pickled beets
in any form are usually well liked, this relish may be put up for the
variety it offers.
BEET RELISH
1 qt. cooked beets, chopped
1 c. horseradish root, grated
1 c. vinegar
1 Tb. salt
1/2 c. sugar
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
Cook the beets in the usual way. When they are tender, remove the skins
103 / 211
and chop quite fine. Add the grated horseradish to the beets. To the
vinegar, add the salt, sugar, and spices and heat to the boiling point.
Pour this mixture over the vegetable mixture, pack all into hot
sterilized jars, seal, cool, and store.
103. CHILLI SAUCE.--Chilli sauce is a well-known relish in which ripe
tomatoes, red or green peppers, and onions are combined with spices and
vinegar. Although not so many vegetables are used in this relish as in
those which precede, it merits a place among the canned foods prepared
for future use.
CHILLI SAUCE
2 qt. medium-sized ripe tomatoes
2 red or green peppers, finely chopped
2 onions, finely chopped
2 c. vinegar
1/2 c. sugar
1 Tb. salt
1 tsp. ground cloves
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
2 tsp. celery salt
Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water until the skins loosen. Then remove
the skins and stem ends, chop the tomatoes, and put them into a
preserving kettle with the chopped peppers and chopped onions. Heat
gradually to the boiling point, add the vinegar, sugar, salt, and
spices, and cook slowly until the mixture is quite thick. This will
require from 2 to 3 hours. Then put the hot sauce into sterilized
bottles or jars, seal, allow them to cool, and store.
104. GREEN-TOMATO PICKLE.--A pleasing relish may be made from green
tomatoes after the frost has come in the fall and tomatoes on the vines
will not mature.
GREEN-TOMATO PICKLE
3 qt. green tomatoes, sliced
2 qt. onions, sliced
1 qt. vinegar
1 pt. water
1 Tb. salt
1-1/2 lb. brown sugar
2 Tb. cinnamon
2 tsp. cloves
2 tsp. allspice
3 Tb. celery salt
1 Tb. mustard seed
Select firm green tomatoes, wash them, and slice them. Peel the onions,
and slice them into slices of the same thickness as the tomatoes, about
1/4 inch being perhaps the most desirable. Mix the tomatoes and onions,
sprinkle them generously with salt, and allow them to stand for 24
hours. At the end of this time, pour off any excess liquid; then pour a
small quantity of fresh water over them, and drain this off, also. To
the vinegar and water, add the salt, sugar, and spices. Heat this
mixture to the boiling point, pour it over the mixture of tomatoes and
onions, and put into jars. Seal the jars while hot, allow them to cool,
and then store.
105. RIPE-TOMATO PICKLE.--Ripe tomatoes form the basis of another relish
104 / 211
known as ripe-tomato pickle. Like other relishes in which tomatoes are
used, this relish is very satisfactory for meals in which pickles or
relishes may be served.
RIPE-TOMATO PICKLE
2 qt. ripe tomatoes
2 bunches celery
3 red sweet peppers
3 medium-sized onions
1 qt. vinegar
1 Tb. salt
1 c. sugar
1 Tb. mustard seed
1 Tb. ground cloves
1 Tb. ground cinnamon
Blanch the tomatoes until the skins loosen, and then peel them. Remove
the stem ends, and cut the tomatoes into quite large pieces. Chop the
celery, peppers, and onions coarsely. Cook together until they are
almost tender. Pour off the water. Mix all the vegetables together, and
pack them into a sterilized stone jar. To the vinegar, add the salt,
sugar and spices. Boil and pour this mixture over the vegetables in the
stone jar, cover, and allow this to stand at least 2 weeks before using.
106. TOMATO CATSUP.--As a condiment to be served with meats, oysters,
fish, baked beans, and other foods high in protein, catsup finds
considerable use. This relish, which is also called catchup and
ketchup, may be made from both vegetables and fruits, but that made
from tomatoes seems to be the most desirable to the majority.
TOMATO CATSUP
1/2 bu. ripe tomatoes
1/2 c. salt
1 lb. brown sugar
2 qt. vinegar
1 Tb. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. Cayenne pepper
2 Tb. celery salt
2 tsp. ground cloves
Remove the skins from the tomatoes by blanching and cut out the stem
ends. Then slice the tomatoes, put them into a preserving kettle over
the fire, cook them until they are soft, and force them through a sieve
to remove the seeds. Return the pulp to the preserving kettle, add the
salt, sugar, vinegar, and spices, and cook the mixture until it is
reduced at least half in quantity. Pour into sterilized bottles, seal,
cool, and store.
107. GRAPE CATSUP.--Perhaps the best-known catsup made from fruit is
grape catsup. Its uses are practically the same as those of tomato
catsup, and it is made in much the same way.
GRAPE CATSUP
4 qt. Concord grapes
3 c. vinegar
1 lb. brown sugar
2 Tb. cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
105 / 211
1 tsp. allspice
Put the grapes to cook with the vinegar. When they have cooked soft
enough, press through a sieve to remove the seeds and skins. Add the
sugar and spices, and cook until the mixture is rather thick. Stir
constantly to prevent scorching. Pour into sterilized bottles, seal,
cool, and store.
108. PICKLED WATERMELON RIND.--An unusual, though highly satisfactory,
relish may be made from the rind of melons. The accompanying recipe is
for pickled watermelon rind, but if desired muskmelon rind may be
substituted. In either case, only the white part of the rind should
be used.
PICKLED WATERMELON RIND
4 qt. watermelon rind cut into strips or cubes
1 oz. stick cinnamon
1 Tb. cloves
1 c. water
3 lb. sugar
1 qt. vinegar
Prepare the rind by cutting off the green skin and all the pink flesh on
the inside. Cut this rind into strips 1 inch wide and 1 inch thick, and
then into cubes, if desired. Cook in water until the rind may be easily
pierced with a fork. Add the spices, water, and sugar to the vinegar,
and boil until it becomes sirupy. Add to this sirup the cooked
watermelon rind and bring to the boiling point. Then pack into
sterilized jars, seal, cool, and store.
109. CRAB-APPLE RELISH.--Among the fruits, crab apples lend themselves
best to the making of relish. By the addition of oranges, raisins, and
spices, as in this recipe, crab-apple relish is made very desirable and
agreeable to the taste.
CRAB-APPLE RELISH
4 qt. crab apples
3 c. vinegar
4 oranges
4 lb. brown sugar
2 lb. Sultana raisins
1 Tb. powdered cinnamon
1 tsp. cloves
1 tsp. allspice
Wash the crab apples, remove the cores, and cut the apples into small
pieces. Put them into a preserving kettle, add the vinegar, the oranges,
peeled and sliced, the sugar, the raisins, and the spices. Cook all
slowly until the apples are soft. Pour into sterilized jars or glasses,
seal, cool, and store.
* * * * *
JELLY MAKING, PRESERVING, AND PICKLING
EXAMINATION QUESTIONS
(1) (a) Give three reasons why the making and use of jelly has value.
106 / 211
(b) When are pickles permissible in the diet?
(2) What is necessary for the making of good jelly?
(3) Mention some important points to consider in selecting fruit for
jelly making.
(4) (a) What is pectin? (b) Why are ripe fruits not so satisfactory
for jelly making as partly green ones?
(5) Give the test for pectin.
(6) How may jelly be made from fruit juices that do not contain pectin?
(7) Give the best method of extracting fruit juice for jelly.
(8) What material is best for jelly bags? Why?
(9) What is the general proportion of sugar and juice for making: (a)
jelly from very sour fruits? (b) jelly from slightly sour fruits?
(10) Give the method for making jelly by the mean-boiling method.
(11) What is meant by: (a) short boiling? (b) long boiling?
(12) Give two tests for determining when jelly has cooked sufficiently.
(13) (a) How should glasses be prepared before filling them with
jelly? (b) How are glasses closed for storing?
(14) (a) What are preserves? (b) What kind of fruits should be
selected for preserves?
(15) Describe the best method of making preserves.
(16) How do conserves differ from preserves?
(17) How do marmalades differ from conserves?
(18) Describe jam.
(19) How does fruit butter differ from jams?
(20) What are: (a) pickles? (b) relishes?
* * * * *
CONFECTIONS
* * * * *
NATURE AND COMPOSITION
NATURE OF CONFECTIONS
1. CONFECTIONS are such sweetmeats as candy and similar articles, which
have for their foundation sugar, sirup, honey, and the like. As is well
known, the most important variety of confection is candy, and this is
the one that is usually meant when the term confections is mentioned.
107 / 211
Confections, however, are not so limited as might be imagined upon first
thought, for many delicious dishes whose main ingredient is nuts,
fruits, coconut, or pop corn are also placed in this class. To be sure,
most of these contain sweetening material of some sort in greater or
smaller quantities. Therefore, in its broadest sense, confections may be
regarded as preparations having for their chief ingredient sugar or
substances containing it, such as molasses, honey, etc., usually mixed
with other food materials, such as nuts, fruits, chocolate, starches,
and fats, to give them body and consistency, and flavored and colored in
any desired way.
2. The making of confections, and of candy in particular, is both a
useful and a delightful pastime that can be indulged in even by those
who are only slightly skilled. In fact, with a certain amount of
knowledge of the methods used and a little practice, surprising results
can be obtained by the amateur candy maker. Then, too, it is a
comparatively simple matter to copy the confectioner's work. A
considerable variety of candies can often be made from a simple
foundation material if a little originality or ingenuity is applied.
Since it is an easy matter to prepare foods of this kind and since they
can be made at home more cheaply and of more tasty and wholesome
materials, it is a decided advantage to make them rather than buy them,
particularly if they are used extensively in the home. However, not so
much fear need be felt now as formerly with regard to commercially made
candies, for much has been done in recent years to compel the use of
wholesome materials in candies, especially the cheaper ones that
children are apt to buy. The pure-food laws require that no such
adulterants as are not food materials and no harmful flavorings,
colorings, nor alcoholic beverages be used in making confections. As can
well be understood, this is a valuable protection. Consequently, at the
present time, the harm, if any, resulting from eating candy comes from
either the excessive or the wrong use of it.
3. The taste for confections of all kinds is one that is acquired, and
it is often developed to harmful extremes. Therefore, these foods, like
most others, should be indulged in only in moderation. They will then
prove not only valuable, but entirely unharmful. The greatest precaution
that should be observed in their use is in giving them to children. Very
young children should not have candy at all, it being much too
concentrated for digestive organs that are used to handling only diluted
food materials. As they grow older and their diet begins to include more
foods, a small quantity of wholesome sweets will not be harmful if it is
given at meal time. Adults with normal digestion may eat a reasonable
amount of candy and other confections without injury.
4. To assist in the making of confections in the home, the principles of
candy making, as well as those which must be understood for the making
of such other foods as are commonly called confections, are given in
this Section. In addition, there are included explicit directions for
the making of simple candies and confections and of some of the
varieties that are more difficult to make. The various operations are
not hard to perform, and good results may be expected if each step is
carried out as directed. The operations requiring skill and dexterity,
such as the coating of bonbons and chocolates, must be repeated several
times if results that approach those of the professional confectioner
are to be attained. Still, surprisingly good results may be obtained the
first time the work is done if directions are followed explicitly.
COMPOSITION OF CONFECTIONS
108 / 211
5. CARBOHYDRATE IN CONFECTIONS.--So far as their composition is
concerned, confections are largely carbohydrate in the form of sugar.
This food material may be one of several different varieties. As is well
understood, the high percentage of carbohydrate, which in some cases may
be very close to 100 per cent., greatly increases the food value of this
variety of foods. Where the percentage is very high, the candies are
necessarily hard, for all or nearly all the moisture is driven off in
the making. In this case, as in other foods, the more water there is
present, the more reduced is the total food value.
6. FAT IN CONFECTIONS.--To a certain extent, fat is found in these
high-carbohydrate foods. It is supplied largely by the use of milk,
condensed milk, cream, butter or butter substitutes, nuts, and
chocolate. While these materials are usually added to produce a certain
flavor or consistency, they form at the same time an ingredient that
greatly increases the food value of the finished product.
7. PROTEIN IN CONFECTIONS.--Protein is not found extensively in
confections unless nuts, chocolate, milk, or other foods containing it
are used in their preparation. But, even then, sweets are usually eaten
in such small quantities that the protein in them does not figure to any
great extent, so that, at best, confections are not considered as a
source of protein at any time. However, chocolate-coated nuts, as will
readily be seen, are a rather high-protein food.
8. MINERAL SALTS IN CONFECTIONS.--Refined sugar does not contain mineral
salts, so that unless other ingredients containing this food substance
are added, no mineral salts will be present in confections. It is true
that some of the ingredients used, such as milk, fruits, nuts, molasses,
honey, maple sirup, etc., contain certain minerals; but just as
confections are not taken as a source of protein, so they are not
characterized by the minerals in them.
* * * * *
CONFECTION MAKING
INGREDIENTS USED IN CONFECTIONS
FOUNDATION MATERIALS
9. SUGAR.--The most important ingredient used in the making of
confections is sugar. It is therefore well that the nature of this
ingredient be thoroughly understood. Its chief commercial varieties are
cane sugar and beet sugar, both of which produce the same results in
cookery operations. When sugar is mentioned as an ingredient, plain
granulated sugar is meant unless it is otherwise stated. Whether this is
cane or beet sugar makes no difference. The fineness and the color of
sugar are due to its refinement and the manufacturing processes through
which it is put, and these are indicated by various terms and trade
names, such as granulated, pulverized, and soft sugars.
The grading of granulated sugar is based on the size of its crystals,
this sugar coming in three qualities. The coarsest is known as coarse
granulated; the next finer, as standard granulated; and the finest,
as fine granulated. There is also a fourth grade known as fancy
fine, or extra-fine, granulated, and often called fruit, or
berry, sugar.
109 / 211
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