ESSENTIALS OF COOKING VOLUME 3-1
SOUP
MEAT
POULTRY AND GAME
FISH AND SHELL FISH
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PREFACE
This volume, which is the third of The Complete Library Of Cooking
includes soups and the high-protein foods, meat, poultry, game,
and fish. It therefore contains information that is of interest to every
housewife, for these foods occupy an important place in the majority
of meals.
In her study of Soup, she will come to a thorough appreciation of the
place that soup occupies in the meal, its chief purposes, and its
economic value. All the different kinds of soups are classified and
discussed, recipes for making them, as well as the stocks used in their
preparation, receiving the necessary attention. The correct serving of
soup is not overlooked; nor are the accompaniments and garnishes so
often required to make the soup course of the meal an attractive one.
In Meat, Parts 1 and 2, are described the various cuts of the
different kinds of meat--beef, veal, lamb, mutton, and pork--and the
part of the animal from which they are obtained, the way in which to
judge a good piece of meat by its appearance, and what to do with it
from the time it is purchased until all of it is used. All the methods
applicable to the cooking of meats are emphasized in this section.
Supplementing the text are numerous illustrations showing the ways in
which meat cuts are obtained. Besides, many of them are so reproduced
that actual cuts of meat may be readily recognized. Equipped with this
knowledge, the housewife need give no concern to the selection, care,
and cooking of every variety of meat.
In Poultry and Game, the selection and preparation of all kinds of
poultry receive attention. While such food is somewhat of a luxury in a
great many homes, it helps to relieve the monotony of the usual protein
foods, and it often supplies just what is desired for special occasions.
Familiarity with poultry and game is a decided asset to any housewife,
and success with their cooking and serving is assured through a study
of this text, for every step in their preparation is clearly explained
and illustrated.
In Fish and Shell Fish, the other high-protein food is treated in full
as to its composition, food value, purchase, care, and preparation. Such
interesting processes as the boning, skinning, and filleting of fish are
not only carefully explained but clearly illustrated. In addition to
recipes for fresh, salt, smoked, and canned fish are given directions
for the preparation of all edible shell fish and recipes for the various
stuffings and sauces served with fish.
Too much cannot be said about the importance of the subjects covered in
this volume and the necessity for a thorough understanding of them on
the part of every housewife. Indeed, a mastery of them will mean for her
an acquaintance with the main part of the meal, and when she knows how
to prepare these foods, the other dishes will prove a simple matter.
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CONTENTS
SOUP 4
Value of Soup 4
Classification of Soups 6
Uses and Varieties of Soup Stock 7
The Stock Pot 9
Principal Ingredients in Soup 9
Processes Involved in Making Stock 10
Serving Soup 14
Recipes for Soup and Soup Accompaniments 14
Stocks and Clear Soups 15
Heavy Thick Soups 17
Cream Soups 20
Purees 23
Chowders 24
Soup Accompaniments and Garnishes 25
MEAT 30
Value of Meat as Food 30
Structure and Composition of Meat 31
Purchase and Care of Meat 34
Purposes of Cooking Meat 36
Methods of Cooking Meat 37
Time Required for Cooking Meat 39
Beef--General Characteristics 40
Cuts of Beef 41
Steaks and Their Preparation 43
Roasts and Their Preparation 46
Preparation of Stews and Corned Beef 49
Beef Organs and Their Preparation 51
Making Gravy 52
Trying Out Suet and Other Fats 53
Preparation of Left-Over Beef 53
Veal 56
Cuts of Veal and Their Uses 56
Veal Cuts and Their Preparation 58
Veal Organs and Their Preparation 60
Preparation of Left-Over Veal 61
Mutton and Lamb--Comparison 62
Cuts of Mutton and Lamb 63
Preparation of Roasts, Chops, and Stews 64
Preparation of Left-Over Lamb and Mutton 66
Pork 67
Cuts of Pork 68
Fresh Pork and Its Preparation 69
Cured Pork and Its Preparation 72
Preparation of Left-Over Pork 74
Serving and Carving of Meat 75
Sausages and Meat Preparations 75
Principles of Deep-Fat Frying 76
Application of Deep-Fat Frying 77
Timbale Cases 79
POULTRY AND GAME 81
Poultry as a Food 81
Selection of Poultry 82
Selection of Chicken 84
Selection of Poultry Other Than Chicken 86
Composition of Poultry 88
Preparation of Chicken for Cooking 88
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Preparation of Poultry Other Than Chicken for Cooking 91
Cooking of Poultry 92
Stuffing for Roast Poultry 94
Boned Chicken 98
Dishes from Left-Over Poultry 102
Serving and Carving of Poultry 105
Game 106
Recipes for Game 106
FISH AND SHELL FISH 109
Fish in the Diet 109
Composition and Food Value of Fish 111
Purchase and Care of Fish 114
Cleaning Fish 117
Boning Fish 117
Skinning Fish 118
Filleting Fish 118
Methods of Cooking Fish 118
Recipes for Fish Sauces and Stuffings 118
Recipes for Fresh Fish 122
Recipes for Salt and Smoked Fish 127
Recipes for Canned Fish 129
Recipes for Left-Over Fish 131
Shell Fish--Nature, Varieties, and Use 131
Oysters and Their Preparation 133
Clams and Their Preparation 138
Scallops and Their Preparation 140
Lobsters and Their Preparation 140
Crabs and Their Preparation 144
Shrimp and Their Preparation 145
SOUP
SOUP AND ITS PLACE IN THE MEAL
VALUE OF SOUP
1. SOUP is a liquid food that is prepared by boiling meat or vegetables,
or both, in water and then seasoning and sometimes thickening the liquid
that is produced. It is usually served as the first course of a dinner,
but it is often included in a light meal, such as luncheon. While some
persons regard the making of soup as difficult, nothing is easier when
one knows just what is required and how to proceed. The purpose of this
Section, therefore, is to acquaint the housewife with the details of
soup making, so that she may provide her family with appetizing and
nutritious soups that make for both economy and healthfulness.
2. It is interesting to note the advancement that has been made with
this food. The origin of soup, like that of many foods, dates back to
practically the beginning of history. However, the first soup known was
probably not made with meat. For instance, the mess of pottage for which
Esau sold his birthright was soup made of red lentils. Later on meat
came to be used as the basis for soup because of the agreeable and
appetizing flavor it provides. Then, at one time in France a scarcity of
butter and other fats that had been used to produce moistness and
richness in foods, brought about such clear soups as bouillon and
consomme. These, as well as other liquid foods, found much favor, for
about the time they were devised it came to be considered vulgar to chew
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food. Thus, at various periods, and because of different emergencies,
particular kinds of soup have been introduced, until now there are many
kinds from which the housewife may choose when she desires a dish that
will start a meal in the right way and at the same time appeal to
the appetite.
3. VALUE OF SOUP IN THE MEAL.--Not all persons have the same idea
regarding the value of soup as a part of a meal. Some consider it to be
of no more value than so much water, claiming that it should be fed to
none but children or sick persons who are unable to take solid food. On
the other hand, many persons believe that soup contains the very essence
of all that is nourishing and sustaining in the foods of which it is
made. This difference of opinion is well demonstrated by the ideas that
have been advanced concerning this food. Some one has said that soup is
to a meal what a portico is to a palace or an overture to an opera,
while another person, who evidently does not appreciate this food, has
said that soup is the preface to a dinner and that any work really worth
while is sufficient in itself and needs no preface. Such opinions,
however, must be reconciled if the true value of this food is to be
appreciated.
4. Probably the best way in which to come to a definite conclusion as to
the importance of soup is to consider the purposes it serves in a meal.
When its variety and the ingredients of which it is composed are thought
of, soup serves two purposes: first, as an appetizer taken at the
beginning of a meal to stimulate the appetite and aid in the flow of
digestive juices in the stomach; and, secondly, as an actual part of the
meal, when it must contain sufficient nutritive material to permit it to
be considered as a part of the meal instead of merely an addition. Even
in its first and minor purpose, the important part that soup plays in
many meals is not hard to realize, for it is just what is needed to
arouse the flagging appetite and create a desire for nourishing food.
But in its second purpose, the real value of soup is evident. Whenever
soup contains enough nutritive material for it to take the place of some
dish that would otherwise be necessary, its value cannot be
overestimated.
If soup is thought of in this way, the prejudice that exists against it
in many households will be entirely overcome. But since much of this
prejudice is due to the fact that the soup served is often unappetizing
in both flavor and appearance, sufficient attention should be given to
the making of soup to have this food attractive enough to appeal to the
appetite rather than discourage it. Soup should not be greasy nor
insipid in flavor, neither should it be served in large quantities nor
without the proper accompaniment. A small quantity of well-flavored,
attractively served soup cannot fail to meet the approval of any family
when it is served as the first course of the meal.
5. GENERAL CLASSES OF SOUP.--Soups are named in various ways, according
to material, quality, etc.; but the two purposes for which soup is used
have led to the placing of the numerous kinds into two general classes.
In the first class are grouped those which serve as appetizers, such as
bouillon, consomme, and some other broths and clear soups. In the second
class are included those eaten for their nutritive effect, such as cream
soups, purees, and bisques. From these two classes of soup, the one that
will correspond with the rest of the meal and make it balance properly
is the one to choose. For instance, a light soup that is merely an
appetizer should be served with a heavy dinner, whereas a heavy, highly
nutritious soup should be used with a luncheon or a light meal.
6. ECONOMIC VALUE OF SOUP.--Besides having an important place in the
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meal of which it forms a part, soup is very often an economy, for it
affords the housewife a splendid opportunity to utilize many left-overs.
With the French people, who excel in the art of soup making chiefly
because of their clever adaptation of seasoning to foods, their
pot-au-feu is a national institution and every kitchen has its stock
pot. Persons who believe in the strictest food economy use a stock pot,
since it permits left-overs to be utilized in an attractive and
palatable way. In fact, there is scarcely anything in the way of fish,
meat, fowl, vegetables, and cereals that cannot be used in soup making,
provided such ingredients are cared for in the proper way. Very often
the first glance at the large number of ingredients listed in a soup
recipe creates the impression that soup must be a very complicated
thing. Such, however, is not the case. In reality, most of the soup
ingredients are small quantities of things used for flavoring, and it is
by the proper blending of these that appetizing soups are secured.
CLASSIFICATION OF SOUPS
7. The two general classes of soup already mentioned permit of numerous
methods of classification. For instance, soups are sometimes named from
the principal ingredient or an imitation of it, as the names potato
soup, beef soup, macaroni soup, mock-turtle soup testify. Again, both
stimulating and nutritious soups may be divided into thin and thick
soups, thin soups usually being clear, and thick soups, because of their
nature, cloudy. When the quality of soups is considered, they are placed
in still different classes and are called broth, bisque, consomme,
puree, and so on. Another important classification of soups results from
the nationality of the people who use them. While soups are classified
in other ways, it will be sufficient for all practical purposes if the
housewife understands these three principal classes.
8. CLASSES DENOTING CONSISTENCY.--As has already been pointed out, soups
are of only two kinds when their consistency is thought of, namely,
clear soups and thick soups.
CLEAR SOUPS are those made from carefully cleared stock, or soup
foundation, and flavored or garnished with a material from which the
soup usually takes its name. There are not many soups of this kind,
bouillon and consomme being the two leading varieties, but in order
to be palatable, they require considerable care in making.
THICK SOUPS are also made from stock, but milk, cream, water, or any
mixture of these may also be used as a basis, and to it may be added for
thickening meat, fish, vegetables, eggs, or grain or some other starchy
material. Soups of this kind are often made too thick, and as such soups
are not appetizing, care must be taken to have them just right in
consistency.
9. CLASSES DENOTING QUALITY.--When attention is given to the quality of
soup, this food divides itself into several varieties, namely, broth,
cream soup, bisque, chowder, and puree.
BROTHS have for their foundation a clear stock. They are sometimes a
thin soup, but other times they are made quite thick with vegetables,
rice, barley, or other material, when they are served as a substantial
part of a meal.
CREAM SOUPS are highly nutritious and are of great variety. They have
for their foundation a thin cream sauce, but to this are always added
vegetables, meat, fish, or grains.
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BISQUES are thick, rich soups made from game, fish, or shell fish,
particularly crabs, shrimp, etc. Occasionally, vegetables are used in
soup of this kind.
CHOWDERS are soups that have sea food for their basis. Vegetables and
crackers are generally added for thickening and to impart flavor.
PUREES are soups made thick partly or entirely by the addition of some
material obtained by boiling an article of food and then straining it to
form a pulp. When vegetables containing starch, such as beans, peas,
lentils, and potatoes, are used for this purpose, it is unnecessary to
thicken the soup with any additional starch; but when meat, fish, or
watery vegetables are used, other thickening is required. To be right, a
puree should be nearly as smooth as thick cream and of the same
consistency.
10. CLASSES TYPICAL OF PARTICULAR COUNTRIES.--Certain kinds of soup have
been made so universally by the people of various countries that they
have come to be regarded as national dishes and are always thought of as
typical of the particular people by whom they are used. Among the best
known of these soups are Borsch, a soup much used by the Russian
people and made from beets, leeks, and sour cream; Daikan, a Japanese
soup in which radishes are the principal ingredient; Kouskous, a soup
favored by the people of Abyssinia and made from vegetables; Krishara,
a rice soup that finds much favor in India; Lebaba, an Egyptian soup
whose chief ingredients are honey, butter, and raisin water; Minestra,
an Italian soup in which vegetables are combined; Mulligatawny, an
Indian rice soup that is flavored with curry; Potroka, another kind of
Russian soup, having giblets for its foundation; Soljinka, an entirely
different variety of Russian soup, being made from fish and onions; and
Tarhonya, a Hungarian soup containing noodles.
* * * * *
STOCK FOR SOUP
USES AND VARIETIES OF STOCK
11. MEANING AND USE OF STOCK.--In order that soup-making processes may
be readily grasped by the housewife, she should be thoroughly familiar
with what is meant by stock, which forms the foundation of many soups.
In looking into the derivation of this term, it will be found that the
word stock comes from an Anglo-Saxon word meaning to stick, and that
while it has many different uses, the idea of fixedness is expressed in
every one of them. As is generally known, a stock of anything means a
reserve supply of that thing stored away for future use. When applied to
soup, stock is similar in meaning, for it refers to material stored or
prepared in such a way that it may be kept for use in the making of
certain kinds of soup. In a more definite sense, soup stock may be
regarded as a liquid containing the juices and soluble parts of meat,
bone, and vegetables, which have been extracted by long, slow cooking
and which can be utilized in the making of soups, sauces, and gravies.
12. Soups in which stock is utilized include all the varieties made from
beef, veal, mutton, and poultry. If clear stock is desired for the
making of soup, only fresh meat and bones should be used and all
material that will discolor the liquid in any way carefully avoided. For
ordinary, unclarified soups, the trimmings and bones of roast, steak, or
chops and the carcass of fowl can generally be utilized. However, very
strongly flavored meat, such as mutton, or the fat from mutton should be
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used sparingly, if at all, on account of the strong flavor that
it imparts.
13. VARIETIES OF STOCK.--Several kinds of stock are utilized in the
making of soup, and the kind to employ depends on the soup desired. In
determining the kind of stock required for the foundation of a soup, the
housewife may be guided by the following classification:
FIRST STOCK is made from meat and bones and then clarified and used for
well-flavored, clear soups.
SECOND STOCK is made from the meat and the bones that remain after the
first stock is strained off. More water is added to the remaining
material, and this is then cooked with vegetables, which supply the
needed flavor. Such stock serves very well for adding flavor to a
nutritious soup made from vegetables or cereal foods.
HOUSEHOLD STOCK is made by cooking meat and bones, either fresh or
cooked, with vegetables or other material that will impart flavor and
add nutritive value. Stock of this kind is used for ordinary soups.
BONE STOCK is made from meat bones to which vegetables are added for
flavor, and it is used for making any of the ordinary soups.
VEGETABLE STOCK is made from either dried or fresh vegetables or both.
Such stock is employed in making vegetable soups.
GAME STOCK is made from the bones and trimmings of game to which
vegetables are added for flavor. This kind of stock is used for making
game soups.
FISH STOCK is made from fish or fish trimmings to which vegetables are
added for flavor. Shell fish make especially good stock of this kind.
Fish stock is employed for making chowders and fish soups.
14. ADDITIONAL USES OF STOCK.--As has already been shown, stock is used
principally as a foundation for certain varieties of soup. This
material, however, may be utilized in many other ways, being especially
valuable in the use of left-over foods. Any bits of meat or fowl that
are left over can be made into an appetizing dish by adding thickened
stock to them and serving the combination over toast or rice. In fact, a
large variety of made dishes can be devised if there is stock on hand to
add for flavor. The convenience of a supply of stock will be apparent
when it is realized that gravy or sauce for almost any purpose can be
made from the contents of the stock pot.
15. SOUP EXTRACTS.--If a housewife does not have sufficient time to go
through the various processes involved in making soup, her family need
not be deprived of this article of diet, for there are a number of
concentrated meat and vegetable extracts on the market for making soups
quickly. The meat extracts are made of the same flavoring material as
that which is drawn from meat in the making of stock. Almost all the
liquid is evaporated and the result is a thick, dark substance that must
be diluted greatly with water to obtain the basis for a soup or a broth.
Some of the vegetable extracts, such as Japanese soy and English
marmite, are so similar in appearance and taste to the meat extracts as
to make it quite difficult to detect any difference. Both varieties of
these extracts may be used for sauces and gravies, as well as for soups,
but it should be remembered that they are not highly nutritious and are
valuable merely for flavoring.
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THE STOCK POT
16. NATURE, USE, AND CARE OF STOCK POT.--Among the utensils used for
cooking there is probably none more convenient and useful than the stock
pot. It is nothing more or less than a covered crock or pot into which
materials that will make a well-flavored stock are put from time to
time. From such a supply, stock can be drawn when it is needed for
soup; then, when some is taken out, more water and materials may be
added to replenish the pot. The stock pot should be made of either
enamel or earthenware, since a metal pot of any kind is liable to
impart flavor to the food. Likewise, its lid, or cover, should be
tight-fitting, for then it will be an excellent utensil in which the
materials may be stored until they are to be heated, when they can be
poured or dipped into a saucepan or a kettle.
The stock pot, like any other utensil used for making soup, should
receive considerable care, as it must be kept scrupulously clean. No
stock pot should ever be allowed to stand from day to day without being
emptied, thoroughly washed, and then exposed to the air for a while
to dry.
17. FOOD SUITABLE FOR THE STOCK POT.--Some one has said that nothing
edible is out of place in the stock pot, and, to a great extent, this
statement is true. Here should be put the bones from the cooked roast,
as well as the trimmings cut from it before it went into the oven; the
tough ends and bones of beefsteak; the trimmings or bones sent home by
the butcher; the carcasses of fowls, together with any remains of
stuffing and tough or left-over bits of meat; any left-over vegetables;
the remains of the gravy or any unsweetened sauces used for meats or
vegetables; the spoonful of left-over hash, stew, or stuffing; a
left-over stuffed tomato or pepper; and the water in which rice,
macaroni, or certain vegetables have been cooked. Of course, plain water
can be used for the liquid, but the water in which such vegetables as
cauliflower, carrots, beans, peas, asparagus, celery, and potatoes have
been cooked is especially desirable, for, besides imparting flavor to
the soup, it adds valuable mineral salts. However, when such things as
left-over cereals, rice, macaroni, and green vegetables are to be
utilized in soup, they should not be put in the stock pot; rather, they
should be added to the stock after it is removed from the pot.
MAKING OF SOUP
PRINCIPAL INGREDIENTS
18. The making of the stock that is used in soup is the most important
of the soup-making processes; in fact, these two things--soup and
stock--may be regarded, in many instances, as one and the same. The
housewife will do well, therefore, to keep in mind that whenever
reference is made to the making of soup usually stock making is also
involved and meant. Before the actual soup-making processes are taken
up, however, the nature of the ingredients required should be well
understood; for this reason, suitable meats and vegetables, which are
the principal ingredients in soups, are first discussed.
19. MEAT USED FOR SOUP MAKING.--With the exception of pork, almost every
kind of meat, including beef, veal, mutton, lamb, game, and poultry, is
used for soup making. Occasionally, ham is employed, but most other
forms of pork are seldom used to any extent. When soup stock is made
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from these meats, they may be cooked separately, or, as a combination is
often an improvement over a single variety, several kinds may be
combined. For instance, mutton used alone makes a very strongly flavored
soup, so that it is usually advisable to combine this kind of meat with
another meat that has a less distinctive flavor. On the other hand, veal
alone does not have sufficient flavor, so it must be combined with lamb,
game, fowl, or some other well-flavored meat.
20. Certain cuts of meats are preferred to others in the making of
soups, because of the difference in their texture. The tender cuts,
which are the expensive ones, should not be used for soups, as they do
not produce enough flavor. The tough cuts, which come from the muscles
that the animal uses constantly and that therefore grow hard and tough,
are usually cheaper, but they are more suitable, because they contain
the material that makes the best soup. The pieces best adapted to soup
making are the shins, the shanks, the lower part of the round, the neck,
the flank, the shoulder, the tail, and the brisket. Although beef is
obtained from the cow, the same cuts come from practically the same
places in other animals. Stock made from one of these cuts will be
improved if a small amount of the fat of the meat is cooked with it;
but to avoid soup that is too greasy, any excess fat that remains after
cooking should be carefully removed. The marrow of the shin bone is the
best fat for soup making.
If soup is to be made from fish, a white variety should be selected. The
head and trimmings may be utilized, but these alone are not sufficient,
because soup requires some solid pieces of meat. The same is true of
meat bones; they are valuable only when they are used with meat, an
equal proportion of bone and meat being required for the best stock.
21. VEGETABLES USED FOR SOUP MAKING.--In soup making, the housewife has
also a large number of vegetables from which to select, for any
vegetable that has a decided flavor may be used. Among those from which
soups can be made successfully are cabbage, cauliflower, asparagus,
corn, onions, turnips, carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, beans, peas,
lentils, salsify, potatoes, spinach, celery, mushrooms, okra, and even
sweet potatoes. These vegetables are used for two purposes: to provide
flavoring and to form part of the soup itself as well as to furnish
flavor. When they are used simply for flavoring, they are cooked until
their flavor is obtained and then removed from the stock. When they are
to form part of the soup, as well as to impart flavor, they are left in
the soup in small pieces or made into a puree and eaten with the soup.
Attention, too, must be given to the condition of the vegetables that
are used in soup. The fresh vegetables that are used should be in
perfect condition. They should have no decayed places that might taint
or discolor the soups, and they should be as crisp and solid as
possible. If they are somewhat withered or faded, they can be freshened
by allowing them to stand in cold water for a short time. When dried
vegetables are to be used for soup making, they should first be soaked
well in cold water and then, before being added to the stock, either
partly cooked or entirely cooked and made into a puree.
PROCESSES INVOLVED IN MAKING STOCK
22. Although the making of stock or soup is a simple process, it must
necessarily be a rather long one. The reason for this is that all flavor
cannot be drawn from the soup materials unless they are subjected to
long, slow cooking at a temperature lower than the boiling point. With
this point definitely understood, the actual work of soup making may
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be taken up.
23. COOKING MEAT FOR SOUP.--When clear stock is to be made from fresh
meat, the required quantity of meat should be cut into small pieces
rather than large ones, so as to expose as much of the surface as
possible from which the flavor of the meat can be drawn. A little more
flavor is obtained and a brown color developed if a small part, perhaps
a fourth, of the pieces of meat are first browned in the frying pan. The
pieces thus browned, together with the pieces of fresh meat, are put
into a kettle and a quart of cold water for each pound of meat is
then added.
The reason for using cold rather than hot water will be evident when the
action of water on raw meat is understood. The fiber of meat is composed
of innumerable thread-like tubes containing the flavor that is to be
drawn out into the water in order to make the stock appetizing. When the
meat is cut, these tiny tubes are laid open. Putting the meat thus
prepared into cold water and allowing it to heat gradually tend to
extract the contents of the tubes. This material is known as
extractives, and it contains in its composition stimulating
substances. On the other hand, plunging the meat into hot water and
subjecting it quickly to a high temperature will coagulate the protein
in the tissue and prevent the extractives from leaving the tubes.
24. To obtain the most flavor from meat that is properly prepared, it
should be put over a slow fire and allowed to come gradually to the
boiling point. As the water approaches the boiling point, a scum
consisting of coagulated albumin, blood, and foreign material will begin
to rise to the top, but this should be skimmed off at once and the
process of skimming continued until no scum remains. When the water
begins to boil rapidly, either the fire should be lowered or the kettle
should be removed to a cooler part of the stove so that the water will
bubble only enough for a very slight motion to be observed. Throughout
the cooking, the meat should not be allowed to boil violently nor to
cease bubbling entirely.
The meat should be allowed to cook for at least 4 hours, but longer if
possible. If, during this long cooking, too much water evaporates, more
should be added to dilute the stock. The salt that is required for
seasoning may be added just a few minutes before the stock is removed
from the kettle. However, it is better to add the salt, together with
the other seasonings, after the stock has been drawn off, for salt, like
heat, has a tendency to harden the tissues of meat and to prevent the
flavor from being readily extracted.
25. Although, as has been explained, flavor is drawn from the fibers of
meat by boiling it slowly for a long time, the cooking of meat for soup
does not extract the nourishment from it to any extent. In reality, the
meat itself largely retains its original nutritive value after it has
been cooked for soup, although a small quantity of protein is drawn out
and much of the fat is removed. This meat should never be wasted;
rather, it should be used carefully with materials that will take the
place of the flavor that has been cooked from it.
26. FLAVORING STOCK.--It is the flavoring of stock that indicates real
skill in soup making, so this is an extremely important part of the
work. In fact, the large number of ingredients found in soup recipes
are, as a rule, the various flavorings, which give the distinctive
flavor and individuality to a soup. However, the housewife whose larder
will not produce all of the many things that may be called for in a
recipe should not feel that she must forego making a particular kind of
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soup. Very often certain spices or certain flavoring materials may be
omitted without any appreciable difference, or something that is on hand
may be substituted for an ingredient that is lacking.
27. The flavorings used most for soup include cloves, peppercorns, red,
black, and white pepper, paprika, bay leaf, sage, marjoram, thyme,
summer savory, tarragon, celery seed, fennel, mint, and rosemary. While
all of these are not absolutely necessary, the majority of them may well
be kept on the pantry shelf. In addition, a bottle of Worcestershire
sauce should be kept on hand. Celery and parsley, which are also much
used for flavoring, can usually be purchased fresh, but as they are
scarce at times it is advisable to dry some of the leaves during the
season when they can be secured, so as to have a supply when they are
not in the market. A small amount of lemon peel often improves soup, so
some of this should be kept in store. Another group of vegetables that
lend themselves admirably to soup flavoring includes leeks, shallots,
chives, garlic, and onions, all of which belong to the same family. They
must be used judiciously, however, as a strong flavor of any of them is
offensive to most persons.
28. As many of the flavorings used for soup lose their strength when
they are exposed to the air, every effort should be made to keep them in
good condition. Many of them can be kept an indefinite length of time if
they are placed in tightly closed metal boxes or glass jars. Flavorings
and spices bought from the grocer or the druggist in paper packages
should be transferred to, and enclosed in, a receptacle that will not
allow them to deteriorate. If proper attention is given to these
materials, the supply will not have to be replenished often; likewise,
the cost of a sufficient number to produce the proper flavorings will be
very slight.
29. In the use of any of the flavorings mentioned or the strongly
flavored vegetables, care should be taken not to allow any one
particular flavor to predominate. Each should be used in such quantity
that it will blend well with the others. A very good way in which to fix
spices and herbs that are to flavor soup is to tie them in a small piece
of cheesecloth and drop the bag thus made into the soup pot. When
prepared in this way, they will remain together, so that, while the
flavor can be cooked out, they can be more readily removed from the
liquid than if they are allowed to spread through the contents of the
pot. Salt, which is, of course, always used to season soup, should be
added in the proportion of 1 teaspoonful to each quart of liquid.
30. REMOVING GREASE FROM SOUP.--A greasy soup is always unpalatable.
Therefore, a very important feature of soup making, whether a thin or a
thick soup is being made, is the removal of all grease. Various ways of
removing grease have been devised, depending on whether the soup is hot
or cold. In the case of hot or warm soup, all the grease that it is
possible to remove with a spoon may be skimmed from the top, and the
remainder then taken up with a piece of clean blotting paper,
tissue-paper, or absorbent cotton. Another plan, by which the fat may be
hardened and then collected, consists in tying a few small pieces of ice
in a piece of cloth and drawing them over the surface of the soup. A
very simple method is to allow the soup or stock to become cold, and
then remove the fat, which collects on the top and hardens, by merely
lifting off the cake that forms.
31. CLEARING SOUP.--Sometimes it is desired to improve the appearance of
soup stock, particularly a small amount of soup that is to be served at
a very dainty luncheon or dinner. In order to do this, the stock may be
treated by a certain process that will cause it to become clear. After
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being cleared, it may be served as a thin soup or, if it is heavy
enough, it may be made into a clear, sparkling jelly into which many
desirable things may be molded for salad or for a dish to accompany a
heavy course. Clearing soup is rather extravagant; however, while it
does not improve the taste, it does improve the appearance.
A very satisfactory way in which to clear stock is to use egg whites and
crushed egg shell. To each quart of cold stock should be added the
crushed shell and a slightly beaten egg white. These should be mixed
well, placed on the fire, and the mixture stirred constantly until it
boils. As the egg coagulates, some of the floating particles in the
stock are caught and carried to the top, while others are carried to the
bottom by the particles of shell as they settle. After the mixture has
boiled for 5 or 10 minutes, the top should be skimmed carefully and the
stock then strained through a fine cloth. When it has been reheated, the
cleared stock will be ready to serve.
32. THICKENING SOUP.--Although thin, clear soups are preferred by some
and are particularly desirable for their stimulating effect, thick soups
find much favor when they are used to form a substantial part of a meal.
Besides giving consistency to soup, thickening usually improves the
flavor, but its chief purpose is to give nutritive value to this food.
In fact, whenever a soup is thickened, its food value is increased by
the ingredient thus added. For this reason, it is advisable to thicken
soups when they are desired for any other purpose than their
stimulating effect.
33. The substance used to thicken soups may be either a starchy material
or food or a puree of some food. The starchy materials generally used
for this purpose are plain flour, browned flour, corn starch, and
arrowroot flour. Any one of these should be moistened with enough cold
water to make a mixture that will pour easily, and then added to the hot
liquid while the soup is stirred constantly to prevent the formation of
lumps. A sufficient amount of this thickening material should be used to
make a soup of the consistency of heavy cream.
The starchy foods that are used for thickening include rice, barley,
oatmeal, noodles, tapioca, sago, and macaroni. Many unusual and fancy
forms of macaroni can be secured, or the plain varieties of Italian
pastes may be broken into small pieces and cooked with the soup. When
any of these foods are used, they should be added long enough before the
soup is removed to be cooked thoroughly.
Purees of beans, peas, lentils, potatoes, and other vegetables are
especially desirable for the thickening of soups, for they not only give
consistency, but add nutritive value and flavor as well. Another
excellent thickening may be obtained by beating raw eggs and then adding
them carefully to the soup just before it is to be served. After eggs
have been added for thickening, the soup should not be allowed to boil,
as it is liable to curdle.
34. KEEPING STOCK.--Soup stock, like many other foods, spoils quite
readily. Therefore, in order to keep it for at least a few days, it must
receive proper attention. At all times, the vessel containing stock
should be tightly closed and, especially in warm weather, the stock
should be kept as cold as possible. Stock that is heavy enough to
solidify into a jellylike consistency when it is cold will keep better
than stock that remains liquid. The addition of salt or any spicy
flavoring also helps to keep stock from deteriorating, because these
materials act as preservatives and prevent the action of bacteria that
cause spoiling. Bacteria may be kept from entering soup if, instead of
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removing the grease, it is allowed to form in a solid cake over the
top. No matter which of these precautions is taken to prevent stock from
spoiling, it should be heated to boiling point once a day when it is to
be kept for several days.
SERVING SOUP
35. Soup may be correctly served in several different ways, the method
to adopt usually depending on the kind of soup. Thin, clear soups are
generally served in bouillon cups, as shown in Fig. 3, which may be
placed on the table immediately before the family assembles or passed
after the members are seated. Heavier soups may be served at the table
from a soup tureen, or each person's portion may be served before the
family comes to the table. For soups of this kind, the flat soup plate,
is found preferable.
The spoon to be served with soup also depends on the kind of soup, but a
larger spoon than a teaspoon is always necessary. When soup is served in
a soup plate, a dessert spoon is used. A bouillon spoon is the best
kind to use with any thin soup served in bouillon cups. Such a spoon,
is about the length of a teaspoon, but has a round bowl.
36. To increase the attractiveness of soup and at the same time make it
more appetizing and nutritious, various accompaniments and relishes are
served with it. When the accompaniment is in the form of crackers,
croutons, or bread sticks, they may be passed after the soup is served,
or a few of them may be placed on the bread-and-butter plate at each
person's place. The relishes should be passed while the soup is being
eaten. Plain whipped cream or whipped cream into which a little mashed
pimiento has been stirred adds much to the flavor and appearance of
soup when served on the top of any hot or cold variety. Then, too, many
soups, especially vegetable soups, are improved in flavor by the
addition of a spoonful of grated cheese, which should be sprinkled into
the dish at the time of serving. For this purpose, a hard, dry cheese,
such as Parmesan, which can often be purchased already grated in
bottles, is the most satisfactory.
37. In summer, clear soups are sometimes served cold, as cold soups are
found more desirable for warm weather than hot ones. However, when a
soup is intended to be hot, it should be hot when it is ready to be
eaten, and every effort should be made to have it in this condition if
an appetizing soup is desired. This can be accomplished if the soup is
thoroughly heated before it is removed from the stove and the dishes in
which it is to be served are warmed before the soup is put into them.
* * * * *
RECIPES FOR SOUP AND SOUP ACCOMPANIMENTS
NECESSITY FOR CAREFUL WORK
38. So that the housewife may put into practice the knowledge she has
gained about soup making, there are here given recipes for various kinds
of soup. As will be observed, these recipes are classified according to
the consistency and nature of the soups, all those of one class being
placed in the same group. As it is important, too, for the housewife to
know how to prepare the various accompaniments and garnishes that are
generally served with soup, directions for the making of these are also
given and they follow the soup recipes.
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39. In carrying out these recipes, it will be well to note that
exactness in fulfilling the requirements and care in working out the
details of the recipes are essential. These points cannot be ignored in
the making of soup any more than in other parts of cookery, provided
successful results and excellent appearance are desired. It is therefore
wise to form habits of exactness. For instance, when vegetables are to
be cut for soups, they should be cut into pieces of equal size, or, if
they are to be diced, they should be cut so that the dice are alike. All
the pieces must be of the same thickness in order to insure uniform
cooking; if this precaution is not observed, some of the pieces are
likely to overcook and fall to pieces before the others are done.
Strict attention should also be given to the preparation of other
ingredients and the accompaniments. The meat used must be cut very
carefully rather than in ragged, uneven pieces. Noodles, which are often
used in soup, may be of various widths; but all those used at one time
should be uniform in width--that is, all wide or all narrow. If
different widths are used, an impression of careless cutting will be
given. Croutons and bread sticks, to be most satisfactory, should be cut
straight and even, and, in order to toast uniformly, all those made at
one time should be of the same size.
STOCKS AND CLEAR SOUPS
40. Stock for Clear Soup or Bouillon.--A plain, but well-flavored, beef
stock may be made according to the accompanying recipe and used as a
basis for any clear soup served as bouillon without the addition of
anything else. However, as the addition of rice, barley, chopped
macaroni, or any other such food will increase the food value of the
soup, any of them may be supplied to produce a more nutritious soup.
When this stock is served clear, it should be used as the first course
in a comparatively heavy meal.
STOCK FOR CLEAR SOUP OR BOUILLON
4 lb. beef
4 qt. cold water
1 medium-sized onion
1 stalk celery
2 sprigs parsley
6 whole cloves
12 peppercorns
1 bay leaf
Salt
Pepper
Cut the meat into small pieces. Pour the cold water over it, place on a
slow fire, and let it come to a boil. Skim off all scum that rises to
the top. Cover tightly and keep at the simmering point for 6 to 8 hours.
Then strain and remove the fat. Add the onion and celery cut into
pieces, the parsley, cloves, peppercorns, and bay leaf. Simmer gently
for about 20 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Strain through
a cloth.
41. Household Stock.--If it is desired to make a stock that may be kept
on hand constantly and that may be used as a foundation for various
kinds of soups, sauces, and gravies, or as a broth for making casserole
dishes, household stock will be found very satisfactory. Such stock made
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in quantity and kept in a sufficiently cool place may be used for
several days before it spoils. Since most of the materials used in this
stock cannot be put to any other particularly good use, and since the
labor required in making it is slight, this may be regarded as an
extremely economical stock.
HOUSEHOLD STOCK
3 qt. cold water
3 lb. meat (trimmings of fresh
meat, bones, and tough pieces
from roasts, steaks, etc.)
1 medium-sized onion
4 cloves
6 peppercorns
Herbs
Salt
Pepper
Pour the cold water over the meat and bones and put them on the fire to
cook. When they come to a boil skim well. Then cover and simmer 4 to 6
hours. Add the onion, cloves, peppercorns, and herbs and cook for
another hour. Add salt and pepper to taste. Strain and set aside to
cool. Remove the fat.
42. White Stock.--An especially nice broth having a delicate flavor and
generally used for special functions when an attractive meal is being
served to a large number of persons is made from veal and fowl and known
as white stock. If allowed to remain in a cool place, this stock will
solidify, and then it may be used as the basis for a jellied meat
dish or salad.
WHITE STOCK
5 lb. veal
1 fowl, 3 or 4 lb.
8 qt. cold water
2 medium-sized onions
2 Tb. butter
2 stalks celery
1 blade mace
Salt
Pepper
Cut the veal and fowl into pieces and add the cold water. Place on a
slow fire, and let come gradually to the boiling point. Skim carefully
and place where it will simmer gently for 6 hours. Slice the onions,
brown slightly in the butter, and add to the stock with the celery and
mace. Salt and pepper to suit taste. Cook 1 hour longer and then strain
and cool. Remove the fat before using.
43. Consomme.--One of the most delicious of the thin, clear broths is
consomme. This is usually served plain, but any material that will not
cloud it, such as finely diced vegetables, green peas, tiny pieces of
fowl or meat, may, if desired, be added to it before it is served. As a
rule, only a very small quantity of such material is used for
each serving.
CONSOMME
4 lb. lower round of beef
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4 lb. shin of veal
1/4 c. butter
8 qt. cold water
1 small carrot
1 large onion
2 stalks celery
12 peppercorns
5 cloves
4 sprigs parsley
Pinch summer savory
Pinch thyme
2 bay leaves
Salt
Pepper
Cut the beef and veal into small pieces. Put the butter and meat into
the stock kettle, and stir over the fire until the meat begins to brown.
Add the cold water, and let come to the boiling point. Skim carefully
and let simmer for 6 hours. Cut the vegetables into small pieces and
add to the stock with the spices and herbs. Cook for 1 hour, adding salt
and pepper to suit taste. Strain and cool. Remove the fat and clear
according to directions previously given.
44. Tomato Bouillon.--It is possible to make a clear tomato soup without
meat stock, but the recipe here given, which is made with meat stock,
has the advantage of possessing a better flavor. The tomato in this
bouillon lends an agreeable color and flavor and affords a change from
the usual clear soup. Cooked rice, macaroni, spaghetti, or vermicelli
may be added to tomato bouillon to provide an additional quantity of
nutrition and vary the plain soup.
TOMATO BOUILLON
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)
1 qt, meat stock
1 tsp. salt
1 Tb. sugar
1/4 tsp. pepper
1 can tomatoes
Heat the stock, and to it add the salt, sugar, and pepper. Rub the
tomatoes through a fine sieve, and add them to the stock. Cook together
for a few minutes and serve.
HEAVY THICK SOUPS
45. Julienne Soup.--A very good way in which to utilize any small
quantities of vegetables that may be in supply but are not sufficient to
serve alone is to use them in julienne soup. For soup of this kind,
vegetables are often cut into fancy shapes, but this is a more or less
wasteful practice and should not be followed, as tiny strips or dice cut
finely and carefully are quite as agreeable. The vegetables do not add a
large amount of nutriment to this soup, but they introduce into the soup
mineral salts that the soups would otherwise not have and they also add
a variety of flavor.
JULIENNE SOUP
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 pt. mixed vegetables
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1/2 tsp. salt
1 qt. stock
1/4 tsp. pepper
Cut into tiny dice or into strips such vegetables as celery, carrots,
and turnips, making them as nearly the same size and shape as possible.
Put them on to cook in enough boiling salted water to cover well. Cook
until they are soft enough to be pierced with a fork, but do not lose
their shape. Drain off the water and put the vegetables into the stock.
Bring to the boiling point, season with the pepper, and serve.
46. Ox-Tail Soup.--The use of ox tails for soup helps to utilize a part
of the beef that would ordinarily be wasted, and, as a rule, ox tails
are comparatively cheap. Usually the little bits of meat that cook off
the bones are allowed to remain in the soup. Variety may be obtained by
the addition of different kinds of vegetables.
OX-TAIL SOUP
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)
2 ox tails
1 large onion
1 Tb. beef drippings
4 qt. cold water
1 Tb. mixed herbs
4 peppercorns
1 Tb. salt
Wash and cut up the ox tails, separating them at the joints. Slice the
onion and brown it and half of the ox tails in the beef drippings. When
they are browned, put them and the remainder of the ox tails into a
kettle. Add the water and the herbs and peppercorns tied in a little
piece of cheesecloth. Bring to the boiling point, and then simmer for 3
to 4 hours or until the meat separates from the bones. Add the salt an
hour before serving the soup. Remove the fat and serve some of the
nicest joints with the soup. If vegetables are desired, they should be
diced and added 20 minutes before serving, so that they will be
cooked soft.
47. Mulligatawny Soup.--If a highly seasoned soup is desired,
mulligatawny, although not a particularly cheap soup, will be found very
satisfactory. The curry powder that is used adds an unusual flavor that
is pleasing to many people, but if it is not desired, it may be omitted.
MULLIGATAWNY SOUP
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)
3 lb. chicken
1 lb. veal
4 qt. cold water
2 onions
1 Tb. butter
4 peppercorns
4 cloves
1 stalk celery
1 Tb. curry powder
1 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
1 lemon
Cut up the chicken and veal, add the cold water to them, and place over
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a slow fire. Slice the onions and brown them in the butter. Add them and
the peppercorns, cloves, chopped celery, and curry powder stirred to a
smooth paste with a little water to the meat. Simmer together slowly
until the chicken is tender. Remove the meat from the bones and cut it
into small pieces. Put the bones into the kettle and simmer for another
hour. Strain the liquid from the veal and bones and remove the fat. Add
the salt, pepper, chicken, and the juice of the lemon. Return to the
fire and cook for a few minutes. Serve with a tablespoonful or two of
cooked rice in each soup dish.
48. Noodle Soup.--The addition of noodles to soup increases its food
value to a considerable extent by providing carbohydrate from the flour
and protein from the egg and flour. Noodle soup is a very attractive
dish if the noodles are properly made, for then they will not cause the
soup to become cloudy when they are put into it. Little difficulty will
be experienced if the directions here given for making noodles are
followed explicitly.
NOODLE SOUP
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 egg
1 Tb. milk
1/2 tsp. salt
Flour
1 qt. household stock
3 sprigs parsley
1 small onion
To make noodles, beat the egg slightly, add to it the milk, and stir in
the salt and enough flour to make a stiff dough. Toss upon a floured
board and roll very thin. Allow the dough to dry for hour or more, and
then cut it into strips about 4 inches wide. Place several strips
together, one on top of the other, and roll them up tight, in the
manner indicated. Cut each roll into thin slices with a sharp knife.
When the slices are separated the noodles should appear as shown in the
pile at the right. If it is desired not to follow this plan, the dough
may be rolled into a thin sheet and cut into strips with a noodle
cutter.
Such a supply of noodles may be used at once, or they may be dried
thoroughly and sealed tightly in a jar for future use. The very dry
ones, however, require a little longer cooking than those which are
freshly made. With the noodles prepared, heat the stock with the parsley
and onion chopped very fine. Add the noodles and cook for 15 or 20
minutes or until the noodles are thoroughly cooked.
Rice, barley, macaroni, and other starchy materials may be added to
stock in the same way as the noodles.
49. Vegetable Soup With Noodles.--The combination of noodles and
vegetables in soup is a very excellent one, since the vegetables add
flavor and the noodles add nutritive value. If the vegetables given in
the accompanying recipe cannot be readily obtained, others may be
substituted.
VEGETABLE SOUP WITH NOODLES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 carrot
1 onion
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1 turnip
1 stalk celery
1 c. boiling water
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 c. noodles
2 sprigs parsley
1/8 tsp. pepper
1 qt. household stock
Dice the vegetables and put them on to cook with the boiling water and
the salt. Cook for a few minutes or until partly soft. Add the noodles,
parsley, pepper, and stock and cook for 15 minutes longer. Serve.
CREAM SOUPS
50. Soups classed as cream soups consist of a thin white sauce to which
is added a vegetable in the form of a puree or cut into small pieces.
Because of their nature, cream soups are usually high in food value; but
they are not highly flavored, so their use is that of supplying
nutrition rather than stimulating the appetite. Considerable variety can
be secured in cream soups, for there are scarcely any vegetables that
cannot be used in the making of them. Potatoes, corn, asparagus,
spinach, peas, tomatoes, and onions are the vegetables that are used
oftenest, but cream soups may also be made of vegetable oysters, okra,
carrots, watercress, celery, cabbage, cauliflower, beans, lentils, and
dried peas. The vegetables may be cooked especially for the soup, or
left-over or canned vegetables may be utilized. It is an excellent plan
to cook more than enough of some vegetables for one day, so that some
will be left over and ready for soup the next day.
If the vegetable is not cut up into small pieces, it must be put through
a sieve and made into the form of a puree before it can be added to the
liquid. It will be observed that with the large, round sieve, a potato
masher must be used to mash the vegetables, the pulp of which is caught
by the utensil in which the sieve is held. In making use of the smaller
sieve, or ricer, the vegetable is placed in it and then mashed by
pressing the top down over the contents with the aid of the handles.
51. THIN WHITE SAUCE.--The liquid for cream soups should be thin white
sauce made entirely of milk or of milk and cream. The flavor of the soup
will be improved, however, by using with the milk some meat stock, or
the stock that remains from cooking celery, asparagus, or any vegetables
that will lend a good flavor to the soup. The recipe here given makes a
sauce that may be used for any kind of cream soup.
THIN WHITE SAUCE
1 pt. milk, or milk and cream or stock
1 tsp. salt
2 Tb. butter
2 Tb. flour
Heat the liquid, salt, and butter in a double boiler. Stir the flour and
some of the cold liquid that has been reserved to a perfectly smooth,
thin paste and add to the hot liquid. Stir constantly after adding the
flour, so that no lumps will form. When the sauce becomes thick, it is
ready for the addition of any flavoring material that will make a
palatable soup. If thick material, such as any vegetable in the form of
a puree, rice, or potato, is used without additional liquid, only half
as much flour will be required to thicken the sauce.
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52. CREAM-OF-POTATO SOUP.--Because of the large quantity of carbohydrate
derived from the potato, cream-of-potato soup is high in food value. For
persons who are fond of the flavor of the potato, this makes a delicious
soup and one that may be served as the main dish in a light meal.
CREAM-OF-POTATO SOUP
(Sufficient to Serve Four)
2 slices of onion
1 sprig parsley
2 medium-sized potatoes
1 c. milk
1 c. potato water
1 Tb. flour
2 Tb. butter
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Cook the onion and parsley with the potatoes, and, when cooked soft,
drain and mash. Make a sauce of the milk, potato water, flour, and
butter. Season with the salt and pepper, add the mashed potato,
and serve.
53. CREAM-OF-CORN SOUP.--The flavor of corn is excellent in a cream
soup, the basis of the soup being milk, butter, and flour. Then, too,
the addition of the corn, which is comparatively high in food value,
makes a very nutritious soup.
CREAM-OF-CORN SOUP
(Sufficient to Serve Four)
1 pt. milk
1 Tb. butter
1 Tb. flour
1 c. canned corn
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Make a white sauce of the milk, butter, and flour. Force the corn
through a colander or a sieve, and add the puree to the white sauce.
Season with the salt and pepper, and serve.
54. Cream-of-Asparagus Soup.--The asparagus used in cream-of-asparagus
soup adds very little besides flavor, but this is of sufficient value to
warrant its use. If a pinch of soda is used in asparagus soup, there is
less danger of the curdling that sometimes occurs. In making this soup,
the asparagus should be combined with the white sauce just
before serving.
CREAM-OF-ASPARAGUS SOUP
(Sufficient to Serve Four)
1 pt. milk
2 Tb. flour
2 Tb. butter
1 c. asparagus puree
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Make white sauce of the milk, flour, and butter. Add to it the cup of
puree made by forcing freshly cooked or canned asparagus through a
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sieve. Season with the salt and pepper, and serve.
55. Cream-of-Spinach Soup.--Although cream-of-spinach soup is not
especially attractive in appearance, most persons enjoy its flavor, and
the soup serves as another way of adding an iron-containing food to the
diet. Children may often be induced to take the soup when they would
refuse the spinach as a vegetable.
CREAM-OF-SPINACH SOUP
(Sufficient to Serve Four)
1 pt. milk
2 Tb. flour
2 Tb. butter
1/2 c. spinach puree
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Make white sauce of the milk, flour, and butter. Add the spinach puree,
made by forcing freshly cooked or canned spinach through a sieve. Season
with the salt and pepper, heat thoroughly, and serve.
56. Cream-of-Pea Soup.--Either dried peas or canned green peas may be
used to make cream-of-pea soup. If dried peas are used, they must first
be cooked soft enough to pass through a sieve. The flavor is quite
different from that of green peas. With the use of green peas, a fair
amount of both protein and carbohydrate is added to the soup, but more
protein is provided when dried peas are used.
CREAM-OF-PEA SOUP
(Sufficient to Serve Four)
1 pt. milk
1 Tb. flour
2 Tb. butter
1/2 c. pea puree
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Make white sauce of the milk, flour, and butter. Put enough freshly
cooked or canned peas through a sieve to make 1/2 cupful of puree. Then
add the pea puree, the salt, and the pepper to the white sauce. Heat
thoroughly and serve.
57. CREAM-OF-TOMATO SOUP.--As a rule, cream-of-tomato soup is popular
with every one. Besides being pleasing to the taste, it is comparatively
high in food value, because its basis is cream sauce. However, the
tomatoes themselves add very little else besides flavor and
mineral salts.
CREAM-OF-TOMATO SOUP
(Sufficient to Serve Four)
1 c. canned tomatoes
1 pt. milk
3 Tb. flour
3 Tb. butter
1/8 tsp. soda
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
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Force the tomatoes through a sieve and heat them. Make white sauce of
the milk, flour, and butter. Add the soda to the tomatoes, and pour them
slowly into the white sauce, stirring rapidly. If the sauce begins to
curdle, beat the soup quickly with a rotary egg beater. Add the salt and
pepper and serve.
58. CREAM-OF-ONION SOUP.--Many persons who are not fond of onions can
often eat soup made of this vegetable. This is probably due to the fact
that the browning of the onions before they are used in the soup
improves the flavor very decidedly. In addition, this treatment of the
onions gives just a little color to the soup.
CREAM-OF-ONION SOUP
(Sufficient to Serve Four)
4 medium-sized onions
4 Tb. butter
2 Tb. flour
2-1/2 c. milk
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Slice the onions and brown them in a frying pan with 2 tablespoonfuls of
the butter. Make white sauce of the flour, the remaining butter, and the
milk. Add to this the browned onions, salt, and pepper. Heat thoroughly
and serve.
PUREES
59. CHESTNUT PUREE.--There are many recipes for the use of chestnuts in
the making of foods, but probably none is any more popular than that for
chestnut puree. The chestnuts develop a light-tan color in the soup. The
very large ones should be purchased for this purpose, since chestnuts of
ordinary size are very tedious to work with.
CHESTNUT PUREE
(Sufficient to Serve Four)
1 c. mashed chestnuts
1 c. milk
2 Tb. flour
2 Tb. butter
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
1/8 tsp. celery salt
1 c. white stock
Cook Spanish chestnuts for 10 minutes; then remove the shells and skins
and mash the chestnuts. Make white sauce of the milk, flour, and butter.
Add to this the mashed chestnuts, salt, pepper, celery salt, and stock.
Heat thoroughly and serve.
60. SPLIT-PEA PUREE.--Dried peas or split peas are extremely high in
food value, and their addition to soup stock makes a highly nutritious
soup of very delightful flavor. Such a puree served in quantity does
nicely for the main dish in a light meal. Instead of the peas, dried
beans or lentils may be used if they are preferred.
SPLIT-PEA PUREE
(Sufficient to Serve Four)
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3/4 c. split peas
1 pt. white stock
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
2 Tb. butter
2 Tb. flour
Soak the peas overnight, and cook in sufficient water to cover well
until they are soft. When thoroughly soft, drain the water from the peas
and put them through a colander. Heat the stock and add to it the pea
puree, salt, and pepper. Rub the butter and flour together, moisten with
some of the warm liquid, and add to the soup. Cook for a few minutes
and serve.
CHOWDERS
61. CLAM CHOWDER.--The flavor of clams, like that of oysters and other
kinds of sea food, is offensive to some persons, but where this is not
the case, clam chowder is a popular dish of high food value. This kind
of soup is much used in localities where clams are plentiful.
CLAM CHOWDER
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)
1 c. water
1 qt. clams
1 small onion
1 c. sliced potatoes
1/2 c. stewed tomatoes
1/2 c. diced carrots
1/2 c. diced celery
1-1/2 c. milk
2 Tb. butter
1-1/2 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Add the water to the clams, and pick them over carefully to remove any
shell. Strain the liquid through cheesecloth, and then scald the clams
in it. Remove the clams and cook the vegetables in the liquid until they
are soft. Add the milk, butter, salt, and pepper and return the clams.
Heat thoroughly and serve over crackers.
62. FISH CHOWDER.--An excellent way in which to utilize a small quantity
of fish is afforded by fish chowder. In addition, this dish is quite
high in food value, so that when it is served with crackers, little of
anything else need be served with it to make an entire meal if it be
luncheon or supper. Cod, haddock, or fresh-water fish may be used in the
accompanying recipe.
FISH CHOWDER
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 lb. fish
1 small onion
1 c. sliced potatoes
1/2 c. stewed tomatoes
1-1/2 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
2 Tb. butter
1-1/2 c. milk
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Skin the fish, remove the flesh, and cut it into small pieces. Simmer
the head, bones, and skin of the fish and the onion in water for 1/2
hour. Strain, and add to this stock the fish, potatoes, tomatoes, salt,
and pepper. Simmer together until the potatoes are soft. Add the butter
and milk. Serve over crackers.
63. POTATO CHOWDER.--A vegetable mixture such as the one suggested in
the accompanying recipe is in reality not a chowder, for this form of
soup requires sea food for its basis. However, when it is impossible to
procure the sea food, potato chowder does nicely as a change from the
usual soup. This chowder differs in no material way from soup stock in
this form.
POTATO CHOWDER
(Sufficient to Serve Four)
1-1/2 c. sliced potatoes
1 small onion, sliced
1 c. water
1-1/2 c. milk
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
2 Tb. butter
Cook the potatoes and onion in the water until they are soft, but not
soft enough to fall to pieces. Rub half of the potatoes through a sieve
and return to the sliced ones. Add the milk, salt, pepper, and butter.
Cook together for a few minutes and serve.
64. CORN CHOWDER.--The addition of corn to potato chowder adds variety
of flavor and makes a delicious mixture of vegetables. This dish is
rather high in food value, especially if the soup is served over
crackers. A small amount of tomato, although not mentioned in the
recipe, may be added to this combination to improve the flavor.
CORN CHOWDER
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 c. sliced potatoes
1 small onion, sliced
1 c. water
1 c. canned corn
1-1/2 c. milk
2 Tb. butter
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Cook the potatoes and onions in the water until they are soft. Add the
corn, milk, butter, salt, and pepper, and cook together for a few
minutes. Serve over crackers.
SOUP ACCOMPANIMENTS AND GARNISHES
65. The soup course of a meal is a more or less unattractive one, but it
may be improved considerably if some tempting thing in the way of a
garnish or an accompaniment is served with it. But whatever is selected
to accompany soup should be, in a great measure, a contrast to it in
both consistency and color. The reason why a difference in consistency
is necessary is due to the nature of soup, which, being liquid in form,
is merely swallowed and does not stimulate the flow of the gastric
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juices by mastication. Therefore, the accompaniment should be something
that requires chewing and that will consequently cause the digestive
juices, which respond to the mechanical action of chewing, to flow. The
garnish may add the color that is needed to make soup attractive. The
green and red of olives and radishes or of celery and radishes make a
decided contrast, so that when any of these things are served with soup,
an appetizing first course is the result. It is not necessary to serve
more than one of them, but if celery and radishes or celery, radishes,
and olives can be combined in the same relish dish, they become more
attractive than when each is served by itself.
66. RADISHES AND CELERY.--Before radishes and celery are used on the
table, whether with soup or some other part of a meal, they should be
put into cold water and allowed to stand for some time, so that they
will be perfectly crisp when they are served. In the case of radishes,
the tops and roots should first be cut from them, and the radishes then
scrubbed thoroughly. They may be served without any further treatment,
or they may be prepared to resemble flowers. This may be done by
peeling the red skin back to show the white inside, and then cutting
the sections to look like the petals of a flower. Little difficulty
will be experienced in preparing radishes in this artistic way if a
sharp knife is used, for, with a little practice, the work can be done
quickly and skilfully.
67. Celery that is to be served with soup may be prepared in two ways.
The stems may be pulled from the stalk and served separately, as in the
group on the right, or the stalk may be cut down through the center
with a knife into four or more pieces, as shown at the left of the
illustration. The first of these methods is not so good as the second,
for by it one person gets all of the tender heart and the coarse
outside stems are left for all the others. By the second method, every
piece consists of some of the heart and some of the outside stems
attached to the root and makes a similar serving for each person.
Whichever way is adopted, however, the celery should be scrubbed and
cleansed thoroughly. This is often a difficult task, because the dirt
sticks tightly between the stems. Still, an effort should be made to
have the celery entirely free from dirt before it goes to the table. A
few tender yellow leaves may be left on the pieces to improve the
appearance of the celery.
68. CRACKERS.--Various kinds of wafers and crackers can be purchased to
serve with soup, and the selection, as well as the serving of them, is
entirely a matter of individual taste. One point, however, that must not
be overlooked is that crackers of any kind must be crisp in order to be
appetizing. Dry foods of this sort absorb moisture from the air when
they are exposed to it and consequently become tough. As heat drives off
this moisture and restores the original crispness, crackers should
always be heated before they are served. Their flavor can be improved by
toasting them until they are light brown in color.
69. CROUTONS.--As has already been learned, croutons are small pieces of
bread that have been fried or toasted to serve with soup. These are
usually made in the form of cubes, or dice, as is shown in the front
group in Fig. 10; but they may be cut into triangles, circles, ovals,
hearts, or, in fact, any fancy shape, by means of small cutters that can
be purchased for such purposes. The bread used for croutons should not
be fresh bread, as such bread does not toast nor fry very well;
left-over toast, stale bread, or slices of bread that have been cut from
the loaf and not eaten are usually found more satisfactory. If the
croutons are not made from slices already cut, the bread should be cut
into slices 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick, and, after the crusts have been
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closely trimmed, the slices should be cut into cubes. When the cubes
have been obtained, they may be put into a shallow pan and toasted on
all sides quickly, placed in a frying basket and browned in deep fat, or
put into a frying pan and sauted in butter. If toast is used, it should
merely be cut in the desired shape.
Various methods of serving croutons are in practice. Some housewives
prefer to place them in the soup tureen and pour the soup over them,
while others like to put a few in each individual serving of soup. A
better plan, however, and one that is much followed, is to serve a
number of croutons on a small plate or dish at each person's place, as
shown in Figs. 3 and 4, for then every one may eat them in the way
preferred.
70. BREAD STICKS.--A soup accompaniment similar in nature to croutons,
and known as bread sticks, is made of pieces of bread 1/2 inch wide,
1/2 inch thick, and several inches long. These are toasted on each side
and are served in place of crackers. Variety in bread sticks may be
secured by spreading butter over them before the toasting is begun or
by sprinkling grated cheese over them a few minutes before they are
removed from the oven. Bread sticks are usually served on a bread-andbutter
plate to the left of each person's place at the table.
71. PASTRY STRIPS.--A very appetizing addition to soup may be made by
cutting pastry into narrow strips and then baking these strips in the
oven until they are brown or frying them in deep fat and draining them.
Strips prepared in this way may be served in place of crackers,
croutons, or bread sticks, and are considered delicious by those who are
fond of pastry. Details regarding pastry are given in another Section.
72. SOUP FRITTERS.--If an entirely different kind of soup accompaniment
from those already mentioned is desired, soup fritters will no doubt
find favor. These are made by combining certain ingredients to form a
batter and then dropping small amounts of this into hot fat and frying
them until they are crisp and brown. The accompanying recipe, provided
it is followed carefully, will produce good results.
SOUP FRITTERS
1 egg
2 Tb. milk
3/4 tsp. salt
1/2 c. flour
Beat the egg, and to it add the milk, salt, and flour. Drop the batter
in tiny drops into hot fat, and fry until brown and crisp. Drain on
paper and serve with the soup.
73. EGG BALLS.--To serve with a soup that is well flavored but not
highly nutritious, egg balls are very satisfactory. In addition to
supplying nutrition, these balls are extremely appetizing, and so they
greatly improve a course that is often unattractive. Careful attention
given to the ingredients and the directions in the accompanying recipe
will produce good results.
EGG BALLS
3 yolks of hard-cooked eggs
1/2 tsp. melted butter
Salt and pepper
1 uncooked yolk
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Mash the cooked yolks, and to them add the butter, salt, and pepper, and
enough of the uncooked yolk to make the mixture of a consistency to
handle easily. Shape into tiny balls. Roll in the white of egg and then
in flour and saute in butter. Serve in the individual dishes of soup.
74. FORCEMEAT BALLS.--Another delicious form of accompaniment that
improves certain soups by adding nutrition is forcemeat balls. These
contain various nutritious ingredients combined into small balls, and
the balls are then either sauted or fried in deep fat. They may be
placed in the soup tureen or in each person's soup.
FORCEMEAT BALLS
1/2 c. fine stale-bread crumbs
1/2 c. milk
2 Tb. butter
White of 1 egg
1/4 tsp. salt
Few grains of pepper
2/3 c. breast of raw chicken or raw fish
Cook the bread crumbs and milk to form a paste, and to this add the
butter, beaten egg white, and seasonings. Pound the chicken or fish to a
pulp, or force it through a food chopper and then through a puree
strainer. Add this to the first mixture. Form into tiny balls. Roll in
flour and either saute or fry in deep fat. Serve hot.
75. AMERICAN FORCEMEAT BALLS.--A simple kind of forcemeat balls may be
made according to the accompanying recipe. The meat used may be sausage
provided especially for the purpose or some that is left over from a
previous meal. If it is not possible to obtain sausage, some other
highly seasoned meat, such as ham first ground very fine and then
pounded to a pulp, may be substituted.
AMERICAN FORCEMEAT BALLS
1 Tb. butter
1 small onion
1-1/2 c. bread, without crusts
1 egg
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
Dash of nutmeg
1 Tb. chopped parsley
1/2 c. sausage meat
Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the onion finely chopped. Fry for
several minutes over the fire. Soak the bread in water until thoroughly
softened and then squeeze out all the water. Mix with the bread the egg,
salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley, and meat, and to this add also the butter
and fried onion. Form small balls of this mixture and saute them in
shallow fat, fry them in deep fat, or, after brushing them over with
fat, bake them in the oven. Place a few in each serving of soup.
SOUP
EXAMINATION QUESTIONS
(1) (a) Mention the two purposes that soups serve in a meal, (b)
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What are the qualities of a good soup?
(2) (a) Mention the two general classes of soup. (b) Explain and
illustrate how to choose a soup.
(3) Why is soup an economical dish?
(4) (a) Explain in full the meaning of stock as applied to soup. (b)
For what purposes other than soup making is stock used?
(5) (a) What is the value of the stock pot? (b) What care should be
given to it?
(6) Mention some of the materials that may be put into the stock pot.
(7) (a) Why are the tough cuts of meat more suitable for soup than the
tender ones? (b) Name the pieces that are best adapted to soup making.
(8) (a) What proportion of bone to meat should be used in making soup
from fresh meat? (b) For what two purposes are vegetables used
in soup?
(9) Explain briefly the making of stock from meat.
(10) (a) Why should the cooking of the meat for stock be started with
cold water rather than with hot water? (b) What disposal should be
made of meat from which stock is made?
(11) (a) Of what value are flavorings in the making of soups? (b)
What precaution should be taken in the use of flavorings?
(12) Explain how grease may be removed from soup.
(13) How may soup be cleared?
(14) (a) For what purposes is thickening used in soups? (b) Mention
the materials most used to thicken soups.
(15) What precaution should be taken to keep soup or stock from
spoiling.
(16) What point about the serving of soup should be observed if an
appetizing soup is desired?
(17) What kind of dish is used for serving: (a) thin soup? (b) thick
soup?
(18) (a) What is a cream soup? (b) Give the general directions for
making soup of this kind.
(19) (a) How may the soup course of a meal be made more attractive?
(b) In what ways should soup accompaniments be a contrast to the soup?
(20) (a) Explain the making of croutons. (b) What is the most
satisfactory way in which to prepare celery that is to be served
with soup?
ADDITIONAL WORK
Plan and prepare a dinner menu from the recipes given in the lessons
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that you have studied. Submit the menu for this dinner and give the
order in which you prepared the dishes. In addition, tell the number of
persons you served, as well as what remained after the meal and whether
or not you made use of it for another meal. Send this information with
your answers to the Examination Questions.
* * * * *
MEAT (PART 1)
* * * * *
MEAT IN THE DIET
VALUE OF MEAT AS FOOD
1. In its broadest sense, MEAT may be considered as "any clean, sound,
dressed or properly prepared edible part of animals that are in good
health at the time of slaughter." However, the flesh of carnivorous
animals--that is, animals that eat the flesh of other animals--is so
seldom eaten by man, that the term meat is usually restricted to the
flesh of all animals except these. But even this meaning of meat is too
broad; indeed, as the term is generally used it refers particularly to
the flesh of the so-called domestic animals, and does not include
poultry, game, fish, and the like. It is in this limited sense that meat
is considered in these Sections, and the kinds to which attention is
given are beef, veal, lamb, mutton, and pork. Meat, including these
varieties, forms one of the principal sources of the family's food
supply. As such, it is valuable chiefly as a food; but, in the form of
broths and extracts made from it, meat stimulates the appetite and
actually assists the flow of gastric juice. Therefore, so that the
outlay for meat will not be greater than it should be and this food will
provide the greatest amount of nourishment, every housewife should be
thoroughly familiar with the place it occupies in the dietary.
2. In the first place, it should be remembered that the food eaten by
human beings comes from two sources--animal and vegetable. The foods of
animal origin, which include milk, eggs, and meat, have a certain
similarity that causes them to be classed together and this is the fact
that they are high-protein foods. Milk is the first protein food fed to
the young, but a little later it is partly replaced by eggs, and,
finally, or in adult life, meat largely takes the place of both. For
this reason, meat has considerable importance in the dietary. In
reality, from this food is obtained the greatest amount of protein that
the average person eats. However, it will be well to note that milk and
eggs, as well as cheese and even cereals and vegetables, can be made to
take the place of meat when the use of less of this food is deemed
advisable.
3. As the work of protein foods is to build and repair tissue, it is on
them that the human race largely depends. Of course, protein also yields
energy; but the amount is so small that if one variety of protein food,
such as meat, were eaten simply to supply energy to the body, huge
quantities of it would be needed to do the same work that a small amount
of less expensive food would accomplish. Some persons have an idea that
meat produces the necessary strength and energy of those who perform
hard work. This is entirely erroneous, because fats and carbohydrates
are the food substances that produce the energy required to do work.
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Some kind of protein is, of course, absolutely necessary to the health
of every normal person, but a fact that cannot be emphasized too
strongly is that an oversupply of it does more harm than good.
Scientists have been trying for a long time to determine just how much
of these tissue-building foods is necessary for individuals, but they
have found this a difficult matter. Nevertheless, it is generally
conceded that most persons are likely to use too much rather than too
little of them. It is essential then, not only from the standpoint of
economy, but from the far more important principle of health, that the
modern housewife should know the nutritive value of meats.
4. In her efforts to familiarize herself with these matters, the
housewife should ever remember that meat is the most expensive of the
daily foods of a family. Hence, to get the greatest value for the money
expended, meat must be bought judiciously, cared for properly, and
prepared carefully. Too many housewives trust the not over-scrupulous
butcher to give them the kind of meat they should have, and very often
they do not have a clear idea as to whether it is the best piece that
can be purchased for the desired purpose and for the price that is
asked. Every housewife ought to be so familiar with the various cuts of
meat that she need not depend on any one except herself in the purchase
of this food. She will find that both the buying and the preparation of
meats will be a simple matter for her if she learns these three
important things: (1) From what part of the animal the particular piece
she desires is cut and how to ask for that piece; (2) how to judge a
good piece of meat by its appearance; and (3) what to do with it from
the moment it is purchased until the last bit of it is used.
5. Of these three things, the cooking of meat is the one that demands
the most attention, because it has a decided effect on the quality and
digestibility of this food. Proper cooking is just as essential in the
case of meat as for any other food, for a tender, digestible piece of
meat may be made tough and indigestible by improper preparation, while a
tough piece may be made tender and very appetizing by careful,
intelligent preparation. The cheaper cuts of meat, which are often
scorned as being too tough for use, may be converted into delicious
dishes by the skilful cook who understands how to apply the various
methods of cookery and knows what their effect will be on the
meat tissues.
6. Unfortunately, thorough cooking affects the digestibility of meat
unfavorably; but it is doubtless a wise procedure in some cases because,
as is definitely known, some of the parasites that attack man find their
way into the system through the meat that is eaten. These are carried to
meat from external sources, such as dust, flies, and the soiled hands of
persons handling it, and they multiply and thrive. It is known, too,
that some of the germs that cause disease in the animal remain in its
flesh and are thus transmitted to human beings that eat such meat. If
there is any question as to its good condition, meat must be thoroughly
cooked, because long cooking completely eliminates the danger from
such sources.
STRUCTURE AND COMPOSITION OF MEAT
7. An understanding of the physical structure of meat is essential to
its successful cooking. Meat consists of muscular tissue, or lean;
varying quantities of visible fat that lie between and within the
membranes and tendons; and also particles of fat that are too small to
be distinguished except with the aid of a microscope. The general nature
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of the lean part of meat can be determined by examining a piece of it
with merely the unaided eye. On close observation, it will be noted
that, especially in the case of meat that has been cooked, innumerable
thread-like fibers make up the structure. With a microscope, it can be
observed that these visible fibers are made up of still smaller ones,
the length of which varies in different parts of the animal. It is to
the length of these fibers that the tenderness of meat is due. Short
fibers are much easier to chew than long ones; consequently, the pieces
containing them are the most tender. These muscle fibers, which are in
the form of tiny tubes, are filled with a protein substance. They are
held together with a tough, stringy material called connective tissue.
As the animal grows older and its muscles are used more, the walls of
these tubes or fibers become dense and tough; likewise, the amount of
connective tissue increases and becomes tougher. Among the muscle fibers
are embedded layers and particles of fat, the quantity of which varies
greatly in different animals and depends largely on the age of the
animal. For instance, lamb and veal usually have very little fat in the
tissues, mutton and beef always contain more, while pork contains a
greater amount of fat than the meat of any other domestic animal.
8. The composition of meat depends to a large extent on the breed of the
animal, the degree to which it has been fattened, and the particular cut
of meat in question. However, the muscle fibers are made up of protein
and contain more protein, mineral salts, or ash, and certain substances
called extractives, all of which are held in solution by water. The
younger the animal, the greater is the proportion of water and the lower
the nutritive value of meat. It should be understood, however, that not
all of meat is edible material; indeed, a large part of it is made up of
gristle, bones, cartilage, nerves, blood vessels, and connective tissue.
The amount of these indigestible materials also varies in different
animals and different cuts, but the average proportion in a piece of
meat is usually considered to be 15 per cent. of the whole. Because of
the variation of both the edible and inedible material of meat, a
standard composition for this food cannot readily be given.
BEEF Fuel value per pound
Chuck, medium fat 735
Loin, medium fat 1040
Ribs, medium fat 1155
Round, very lean 475
Round, medium fat 895
Round, very fat 1275
Rump, medium fat 1110
VEAL
Breast, medium fat 740
Leg, medium fat 620
Loin, medium fat 690
LAMB
Leg, medium fat 870
MUTTON
Leg, medium fat 900
PORK
Ham, fresh, medium fat 1345
Ham, smoked 1675
Loin 1455
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Bacon, medium fat 2795
9. PROTEIN IN MEAT.--The value of meat as food is due to the proteins
that it contains. Numerous kinds of protein occur in meat, but the
chief varieties are myosin and muscle albumin. The myosin, which is
the most important protein and occurs in the greatest quantity, hardens
after the animal has been killed and the muscles have become cold. The
tissues then become tough and hard, a condition known as rigor
mortis. As meat in this condition is not desirable, it should be used
before rigor mortis sets in, or else it should be put aside until this
condition of toughness disappears. The length of time necessary for this
to occur varies with the size of the animal that is killed. It may be
from 24 hours to 3 or 4 days. The disappearance is due to the
development of certain acids that cause the softening of the tissues.
The albumin, which is contained in solution in the muscle fibers, is
similar in composition to the albumen of eggs and milk, and it is
affected by the application of heat in the cooking processes in much
the same way.
10. GELATINE IN MEAT.--The gelatine that is found in meat is a substance
very similar in composition to protein, but it has less value as food.
It is contained in the connective tissue and can be extracted by
boiling, being apparent as a jellylike substance after the water in
which meat has been cooked has cooled. Use is made of this material in
the preparation of pressed meats and fowl and in various salads and
other cold-meat dishes. Some kinds of commercial gelatine are also made
from it, being first extracted from the meat and then evaporated to form
a dry substance.
11. FAT IN MEAT.--All meat, no matter how lean it appears, contains some
fat. As already explained, a part of the fat contained in meat occurs in
small particles so embedded in the muscle fibers as not to be readily
seen, while the other part occurs in sufficient amounts to be visible.
In the flesh of some animals, such as veal and rabbit, there is almost
no visible fat, but in very fat hogs or fowls, one-third or one-half of
the weight may be fat. Meats that are very fat are higher in nutritive
value than meats that contain only a small amount of this substance, as
will be observed on referring to the table of meat compositions in Fig.
1. However, an excessive amount of fat prevents the protein materials
from digesting normally.
The quality of fat varies greatly, there being two distinct kinds of
this material in animals. That which covers or lies between the muscles
or occurs on the outside of the body just beneath the skin has a lower
melting point, is less firm, and is of a poorer grade for most purposes
than that which is found inside the bony structure and surrounds the
internal organs. The suet of beef is an example of this internal fat.
Fat is a valuable constituent of food, for it is the most concentrated
form in which the fuel elements of food are found. In supplying the body
with fuel, it serves to maintain the body temperature and to yield
energy in the form of muscular and other power. Since this is such a
valuable food material, it is important that the best possible use be
made of all drippings and left-over fats and that not even the smallest
amount of any kind be wasted.
12. CARBOHYDRATE IN MEAT.--In the liver and all muscle fibers of animals
is stored a small supply of carbohydrate in a form that is called
glycogen, or muscle sugar. However, there is not enough of this
substance to be of any appreciable value, and, so far as the methods of
cookery and the uses of meat as food are concerned, it is of no
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importance.
13. WATER IN MEAT.--The proportion of water in meat varies from
one-third to three-fourths of the whole, depending on the amount of fat
the meat contains and the age of the animal. This water carries with it
the flavor, much of the mineral matter, and some food material, so that
when the water is removed from the tissues these things are to a great
extent lost. The methods of cookery applied to meat are based on the
principle of either retaining or extracting the water that it contains.
The meat in which water is retained is more easily chewed and swallowed
than that which is dry. However, the water contained in flesh has no
greater value as food than other water. Therefore, as will be seen in
Fig. 1, the greater the amount of water in a given weight of food, the
less is its nutritive value.
14. MINERALS IN MEAT.--Eight or more kinds of minerals in sufficient
quantities to be of importance in the diet are to be found in meat. Lean
meat contains the most minerals; they decrease in proportion as the
amount of fat increases. These salts assist in the building of hard
tissues and have a decided effect on the blood. They are lost from the
tissues of meat by certain methods of cookery, but as they are in
solution in the water in which the meat is cooked, they need not be lost
to the diet if use is made of this water for soups, sauces, and gravies.
15. EXTRACTIVES IN MEAT.--The appetizing flavor of meat is due to
substances called extractives. The typical flavor that serves to
distinguish pork from beef or mutton is due to the difference in the
extractives. Although necessary for flavoring, these have no nutritive
value; in fact, the body throws them off as waste material when they are
taken with the food. In some methods of cookery, such as broiling and
roasting, the extractives are retained, while in others, such as those
employed for making stews and soups, they are drawn out.
Extractives occur in the greatest quantity in the muscles that the
animal exercises a great deal and that in reality have become tough.
Likewise, a certain part of an old animal contains more extractives than
the same part of a young one. For these reasons a very young chicken is
broiled while an old one is used for stew, and ribs of beef are roasted
while the shins are used for soup.
Meat that is allowed to hang and ripen develops compounds that are
similar to extractives and that impart additional flavor. A ripened
steak is usually preferred to one cut from an animal that has been
killed only a short time. However, as the ripening is in reality a
decomposition process, the meat is said to become "high" if it is
allowed to hang too long.
PURCHASE AND CARE OF MEAT
16. PURCHASE OF MEAT.--Of all the money that is spent for food in the
United States nearly one-third is spent for meat. This proportion is
greater than that of any European country and is probably more than is
necessary to provide diets that are properly balanced. If it is found
that the meat bill is running too high, one or more of several things
may be the cause. The one who does the purchasing may not understand the
buying of meat, the cheaper cuts may not be used because of a lack of
knowledge as to how they should be prepared to make them appetizing, or
more meat may be served than is necessary to supply the needs of
the family.
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Much of this difficulty can be overcome if the person purchasing meat
goes to the market personally to see the meat cut and weighed instead of
telephoning the order. It is true, of course, that the method of cutting
an animal varies in different parts of the country, as does also the
naming of the different pieces. However, this need give the housewife no
concern, for the dealer from whom the meat is purchased is usually
willing to supply any information that is desired about the cutting of
meat and the best use for certain pieces. In fact, if the butcher is
competent, this is a very good source from which to obtain a knowledge
of such matters.
Another way in which to reduce the meat bill is to utilize the trimmings
of bone and fat from pieces of meat. In most cases, these are of no
value to the butcher, so that if a request for them is made, he will, as
a rule, be glad to wrap them up with the meat that is purchased. They
are of considerable value to the housewife, for the bones may go into
the stock pot, while the fat, if it is tried out, can be used for
many things.
17. The quantity of meat to purchase depends, of course, on the number
of persons that are to be served with it. However, it is often a good
plan to purchase a larger piece than is required for a single meal and
then use what remains for another meal. For instance, a large roast is
always better than a small one, because it does not dry out in the
process of cookery and the part that remains after one meal may be
served cold in slices or used for making some other dish, such as meat
pie or hash. Such a plan also saves both time and fuel, because
sufficient meat for several meals may be cooked at one time.
In purchasing meat, there are certain pieces that should never be asked
for by the pound or by the price. For instance, the housewife should not
say to the butcher, "Give me 2 pounds of porterhouse steak," nor should
she say, "Give me 25 cents worth of chops." Steak should be bought by
the cut, and the thickness that is desired should be designated. For
example, the housewife may ask for an inch-thick sirloin steak, a 2-inch
porterhouse steak, and so on. Chops should be bought according to the
number of persons that are to be served, usually a chop to a person
being quite sufficient. Rib roasts should be bought by designating the
number of ribs. Thus, the housewife may ask for a rib roast containing
two, three, four, or more ribs, depending on the size desired. Roasts
from other parts of beef, such as chuck or rump roasts, may be cut into
chunks of almost any desirable size without working a disadvantage to
either the butcher or the customer, and may therefore be bought by the
pound. Round bought for steaks should be purchased by the cut, as are
other steaks; or, if an entire cut is too large, it may be purchased as
upper round or lower round, but the price paid should vary with the
piece that is purchased. Round bought for roasts, however, may be
purchased by the pound.
18. CARE OF MEAT IN THE MARKET.--Animal foods decompose more readily
than any other kind, and the products of their decomposition are
extremely dangerous to the health. It is therefore a serious matter when
everything that comes in contact with meat is not clean. Regarding the
proper care of meat, the sanitary condition of the market is the first
consideration. The light and ventilation of the room and the cleanliness
of the walls, floors, tables, counters, and other equipment are points
of the greatest importance and should be noted by the housewife when she
is purchasing meat. Whether the windows and doors are screened and all
the meat is carefully covered during the fly season are also matters
that should not be overlooked. Then, too, the cleanliness and physical
condition of the persons who handle the meat should be of as great
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concern as the sanitary condition of the market. The housewife who
desires to supply her family with the safest and cleanest meat should
endeavor to purchase it in markets where all the points pertaining to
the sanitary condition are as ideal as possible. If she is at all
doubtful as to the freshness and cleanliness of what is sold to her, she
should give it thorough cooking in the process of preparation so that no
harm will be done to the persons who are to eat it.
19. CARE OF MEAT IN THE HOME.--Because of the perishable nature of meat,
the care given it in the market must be continued in the home in order
that no deterioration may take place before it is cooked. This is not
much of a problem during cold weather, but through the summer months a
cool place in which to keep it must be provided unless the meat can be
cooked very soon after it is delivered. Meat that must be shipped long
distances is frozen before it is shipped and is kept frozen until just
before it is used. If such meat is still frozen when it enters the home,
it should not be put into a warm place, for then it will thaw too
quickly. Instead, it should be put in the refrigerator or in some place
where the temperature is a few degrees above freezing point, so that it
will thaw slowly and still remain too cold for bacteria to
become active.
Even if meat is not frozen, it must receive proper attention after it
enters the home. As soon as it is received, it should be removed from
the wrapping paper or the wooden or cardboard dish in which it is
delivered. If the meat has not been purchased personally, it is
advisable to weigh it in order to verify the butcher's bill. When the
housewife is satisfied about the weight, she should place the meat in
an earthenware, china, or enameled bowl, cover it, and then put it away
in the coolest available place until it is used. Some persons put salt
on meat when they desire to keep it, but this practice should be
avoided, as salt draws out the juices from raw meat and hardens the
tissues to a certain extent.
If such precautions are taken with meat, it will be in good condition
when it is to be cooked. However, before any cooking method is applied
to it, it should always be wiped with a clean, damp cloth. In addition,
all fat should be removed, except just enough to assist in cooking the
meat and give it a good flavor. Bone or tough portions may also be
removed if they can be used to better advantage for soups or stews.
* * * * *
COOKING OF MEAT
PURPOSES OF COOKING MEAT
20. It is in the preparation of food, and of meat in particular, that
one of the marked differences between uncivilized and civilized man is
evident. Raw meat, which is preferred by the savage, does not appeal to
the appetite of most civilized persons; in fact, to the majority of them
the idea of using it for food is disgusting. Therefore, civilized man
prepares his meat before eating it, and the higher his culture, the more
perfect are his methods of preparation.
While it is probably true that most of the methods of cookery render
meat less easy to digest than in its raw condition, this disadvantage is
offset by the several purposes for which this food is cooked. Meat is
cooked chiefly to loosen and soften the connective tissue and thus cause
the muscle tissues to be exposed more fully to the action of the
digestive juices. Another important reason for cooking meat is that
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subjecting it to the action of heat helps to kill bacteria and
parasites. In addition, meat is cooked to make it more attractive to the
eye and to develop and improve its flavor.
METHODS OF COOKING MEAT
21. The result desired when meat is cooked has much to do with the
method of cookery to choose, for different methods produce different
results. To understand this, it will be necessary to know just what the
action of cooking is on the material that meat contains. When raw meat
is cut, the tiny meat fibers are laid open, with the result that, in the
application of the cooking process, the albuminous material either is
lost, or, like the albumen of eggs, is coagulated, or hardened, and thus
retained. Therefore, before preparing a piece of meat, the housewife
should determine which of these two things she wishes to accomplish and
then proceed to carry out the process intelligently.
The methods of cookery that may be applied to meat include broiling, pan
broiling, roasting, stewing or simmering, braizing, frying, sauteing,
and fricasseeing. All of these methods are explained in a general way in
Essentials of Cookery, Part 1, but explanations of them as they apply
to meat are here given in order to acquaint the housewife with the
advantages and disadvantages of the various ways by which this food can
be prepared.
22. BROILING AND PAN BROILING.--Only such cuts of meats as require short
cooking can be prepared by the methods of broiling and pan broiling. To
carry out these methods successfully, severe heat must be applied to the
surface of the meat so that the albumin in the ends of the muscle fibers
may be coagulated at once. This presents, during the remainder of the
preparation, a loss of the meat juices.
Meat to which either of these methods is applied will be indigestible on
the surface and many times almost uncooked in the center, as in the case
of rare steak. Such meat, however, is more digestible than thin pieces
that are thoroughly cooked at the very high temperature required
for broiling.
23. ROASTING.--The process of roasting, either in the oven or in a pot
on top of the stove, to be properly done, requires that the piece of
meat to be roasted must first be seared over the entire surface by the
application of severe heat. In the case of a pot roast, the searing can
be done conveniently in the pot before the pot-roasting process begins.
If the meat is to be roasted in the oven, it may be seared first in a
pan on top of the stove. However, it may be seared to some extent by
placing it in a very hot oven and turning it over so that all the
surface is exposed. Then, to continue the roasting process, the
temperature must be lowered just a little.
The roasting pan may be of any desirable size and shape that is
convenient and sufficiently large to accommodate the meat to be
prepared. It is provided with a cover that fits tight. In this cover
is an opening that may be closed or opened so as to regulate the amount
of moisture inside the pan. In the bottom of the pan is a rack upon
which the meat may rest.
24. To prepare meat for roasting, flour should be sprinkled or rubbed
over its lean surface before it is put in the pan. This forms a paste
that cooks into a crust and prevents the loss of juices from the meat.
In roasting, the heat is applied longer and more slowly than in broiling
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or frying, so that there is more possibility for the connective tissue
beneath the surface to soften. The surface is, however, as indigestible
as that of broiled meat.
An important point for every housewife to remember in this connection is
that the larger the roast the slower should be the fire. This is due to
the fact that long before the heat could penetrate to the center, the
outside would be burned. A small roast, however, will be more delicious
if it is prepared with a very hot fire, for then the juices will not
have a chance to evaporate and the tissues will be more moist and tasty.
25. FRYING AND SAUTEING.--When meat is fried or sauted, that is, brought
directly in contact with hot fat, it is made doubly indigestible,
because of the hardening of the surface tissues and the indigestibility
of the fat that penetrates these tissues. This is especially true of
meat that is sauted slowly in a small quantity of hot fat. Much of this
difficulty can be overcome, however, if meat prepared by these methods,
like that which is broiled or roasted, is subjected quickly to intense
heat. In addition, the fat used for cooking should be made hot before
the meat is put into it.
26. BOILING.--To boil meat means to cook it a long time in water at a
temperature of 212 degrees Fahrenheit. This method of preparing meat is
not strongly advocated, for there is seldom a time when better results
cannot be obtained by cooking meat at a lower temperature than boiling
point. The best plan is to bring the meat to the boiling point, allow
it to boil for a short time, and then reduce the temperature so that the
meat will simmer for the remainder of the cooking.
In cooking meat by boiling, a grayish scum appears on the surface just
before the boiling point is reached. This scum is caused by the gradual
extraction of a part of the soluble albumin that is present in the
hollow fibers of the muscle tissue. After its extraction, it is
coagulated by the heat in the water. As it coagulates and rises, it
carries with it to the top particles of dirt and other foreign material
present in the water or on the surface of the meat. In addition, this
scum contains a little blood, which is extracted and coagulated and
which tends to make it grayish in color. Such scum should be skimmed
off, as it is unappetizing in appearance.
27. Whether the meat should be put into cold water or boiling water
depends on the result that is desired. It is impossible to make a rich,
tasty broth and at the same time have a juicy, well-flavored piece of
boiled meat. If meat is cooked for the purpose of making soup or broth,
it should be put into cold water and then brought to a boil. By this
method, some of the nutritive material and much of the flavoring
substance will be drawn out before the water becomes hot enough to
harden them. However, in case only the meat is to be used, it should be
plunged directly into boiling water in order to coagulate the surface at
once, as in the application of dry heat. If it is allowed to boil for 10
minutes or so and the temperature then reduced, the coating that is
formed will prevent the nutritive material and the flavor from being
lost to any great extent. But if the action of the boiling water is
permitted to continue during the entire time of cooking, the tissues
will become tough and dry.
28. STEWING OR SIMMERING.--The cheap cuts of meat, which contain a great
deal of flavor and are so likely to be tough, cannot be prepared by the
quick methods of cookery nor by the application of high temperature, for
the result would be a tough, indigestible, and unpalatable dish. The
long, slow cooking at a temperature lower than boiling point, which is
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known as stewing or simmering, should be applied. In fact, no better
method for the preparation of tough pieces of meat and old fowl can be
found than this process, for by it the connective tissue and the muscle
fibers are softened. If the method is carried out in a tightly closed
vessel and only a small amount of liquid is used, there is no
appreciable loss of flavor except that carried into the liquid in which
the meat cooks. But since such liquid is always used, the meat being
usually served in it, as in the case of stews, there is no actual loss.
To secure the best results in the use of this method, the meat should be
cut into small pieces so as to expose as much surface as possible. Then
the pieces should be put into cold water rather than hot, in order that
much of the juices and flavoring materials may be dissolved. When this
has been accomplished, the temperature should be gradually raised until
it nearly reaches the boiling point. If it is kept at this point for
several hours, the meat will become tender and juicy and a rich, tasty
broth will also be obtained.
29. BRAIZING.--Meat cooked by the method of braizing, which is in
reality a combination of stewing and baking, is first subjected to the
intense dry heat of the oven and then cooked slowly in the steam of the
water that surrounds it. To cook meat in this way, a pan must be used
that will permit the meat to be raised on a rack that extends above a
small quantity of water. By this method a certain amount of juice from
the meat is taken up by the water, but the connective tissue is well
softened unless the cooking is done at too high a temperature.
30. FRICASSEEING.--As has already been learned, fricasseeing is a
combination of sauteing and stewing. The sauteing coagulates the surface
proteins and prevents, to some extent, the loss of flavor that would
occur in the subsequent stewing if the surface were not hardened. To
produce a tender, tasty dish, fricasseeing should be a long, slow
process. This method is seldom applied to tender, expensive cuts of meat
and to young chickens, but is used for fowl and for pieces of meat that
would not make appetizing dishes if prepared by a quicker method.
TIME REQUIRED FOR COOKING MEAT
31. The length of time required for cooking various kinds of meat is
usually puzzling to those inexperienced in cookery. The difference
between a dry, hard beef roast and a tender, moist, juicy one is due to
the length of time allowed for cooking. Overdone meats of any kind are
not likely to be tasty. Therefore, it should be remembered that when dry
heat is used, as in baking, roasting, broiling, etc., the longer the
heat is applied the greater will be the evaporation of moisture and the
consequent shrinkage in the meat.
A general rule for cooking meat in the oven is to allow 15 minutes for
each pound and 15 minutes extra. If it is to be cooked by broiling,
allow 10 minutes for each pound and 10 minutes extra; by boiling, 20
minutes for each pound and 20 minutes extra; and by simmering, 30
minutes for each pound. In Table I is given the number of minutes
generally allowed for cooking 1 pound of each of the various cuts of
beef, veal, mutton, lamb, and pork by the different cookery methods.
This table should be referred to in studying the two Sections
pertaining to meat.
TABLE I
TIME TABLE FOR COOKING MEATS
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NAME OF CUT COOKERY METHOD TIME PER POUND
MINUTES
BEEF
Round Roasting 12 to 15
Ribs Roasting, well done 12 to 15
Ribs Roasting, rare 8 to 10
Rump Roasting 12 to 15
Sirloin Roasting, rare 8 to 10
Rolled roast Roasting 12 to 15
Steaks Broiling, well done 12 to 15
Steaks Broiling, rare 8 to 10
Fresh beef Boiling 20 to 25
Corned beef Boiling 25 to 30
Any cut Simmering 30
Chuck Braizing 25 to 30
VEAL
Leg Roasting 20
Chops or steak Broiling 8 to 30
Shoulder Braizing 30 to 40
MUTTON
Leg Roasting 15 to 20
Shoulder Roasting 15 to 20
Leg Braizing 40 to 50
Leg Boiling 15 to 25
Chops Broiling 10 to 12
LAMB
Loin or saddle Roasting 15 to 20
Leg Roasting 15 to 20
Chops Broiling 8 to 10
PORK
Shoulder or ribs Roasting 20 to 25
Ham Boiled 20 to 30
Chops Broiled 8 to 10
* * * * *
BEEF
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF BEEF
32. As is generally known, BEEF is the flesh of a slaughtered steer,
cow, or other adult bovine animal. These animals may be sold to be
slaughtered as young as 1-1/2 to 2 years old, but beef of the best
quality is obtained from them when they are from 3 to 4 years of age.
Ranging from the highest quality down to the lowest, beef is designated
by the butcher as prime, extra fancy, fancy, extra choice, choice, good,
and poor. In a market where trade is large and varied, it is possible to
make such use of meat as to get a higher price for the better qualities
than can be obtained in other markets.
33. When the quality of beef is to be determined, the amount, quality,
and color of the flesh, bone, and fat must be considered. The surface of
a freshly cut piece of beef should be bright red in color. When it is
exposed to the air for some time, the action of the air on the blood
causes it to become darker, but even this color should be a good clear
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red. Any unusual color is looked on with suspicion by a person who
understands the requirements of good meat. To obtain beef of the best
quality, it should be cut crosswise of the fiber. In fact, the way in
which meat is cut determines to a great extent the difference between
tender and tough meat and, consequently, the price that is charged. This
difference can be readily seen by examining the surface of a cut. It
will be noted that the tender parts are made up of short fibers that are
cut directly across at right angles with the surface of the meat, while
the tougher parts contain long fibers that run either slanting or almost
parallel to the surface.
34. The amount of bone and cartilage in proportion to meat in a cut of
beef usually makes a difference in price and determines the usefulness
of the piece to the housewife. Therefore, these are matters that should
be carefully considered. For instance, a certain cut of beef that is
suitable for a roast may cost a few cents less than another cut, but if
its proportion of bone to meat is greater than in the more expensive
piece, nothing is gained by purchasing it. Bones, however, possess some
value and can be utilized in various ways. Those containing marrow,
which is the soft tissue found in the cavities of bones and composed
largely of fat, are more valuable for soup making and for stews and
gravies than are solid bones.
In young beef in good condition, the fat is creamy white in color.
However, as the animal grows older, the color grows darker until it
becomes a deep yellow.
Besides the flesh, bone, and fat, the general shape and thickness of a
piece of beef should be noted when its quality is to be determined. In
addition, its adaptability to the purpose for which it is selected and
the method of cookery to be used in its preparation are also points that
should not be overlooked.
* * * * *
CUTS OF BEEF
METHOD OF OBTAINING CUTS
35. With the general characteristics of beef well in mind, the housewife
is prepared to learn of the way in which the animal is cut to produce
the different pieces that she sees in the butcher shop and the names
that are given to the various cuts. The cutting of the animal, as well
as the naming of the pieces, varies in different localities, but the
difference is not sufficient to be confusing. Therefore, if the
information here given is thoroughly mastered, the housewife will be
able to select meat intelligently in whatever section of the country she
may reside. An important point for her to remember concerning meat of
any kind is that the cheaper cuts are found near the neck, legs, and
shins, and that the pieces increase in price as they go toward the back.
36. The general method of cutting up a whole beef into large cuts is as
follows. After the head, feet, and intestines are removed, the carcass
is cut down along the spine and divided into halves. Each half includes
an entire side and is known as a side of beef. Then each side is
divided into fore and hind quarters along the diagonal line that occurs
about midway between the front and the back. It is in this form that
the butcher usually receives the beef. He first separates it into the
large pieces and then cuts these pieces into numerous smaller ones
having names that indicate their location.
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37. The cuts that are obtained from these larger pieces are as follows.
For instance, from the chuck are secured numerous cuts, including the
neck, shoulder clod, shoulder, and chuck ribs. The same is true of the
other pieces.
NAMES AND USES OF CUTS
To make these large pieces of a size suitable for sale to the consumer,
the butcher cuts each one of them into still smaller pieces, The names
of these cuts, together with their respective uses, and the names of
the beef organs and their uses, are given in Table II.
TABLE II
CUTS OBTAINED FROM A SIDE OF BEEF AND THEIR USES
NAME OF NAME OF CUT USES OF CUTS
LARGE PIECE
Chuck........Neck Soups, broths, stews
Shoulder clod Soups, broths, stews,
boiling, corning
Ribs (11th, 12th, Brown stews, braizing,
and 13th) poor roasts
Ribs (9th and 10th) Braizing, roasts
Shoulder Soups, stews, corning, roast
Cross-ribs Roast
Brisket Soups, stews, corning
Shin Soups
Prime Ribs...Ribs (1st to 8th, Roasts
inclusive)
Whole Plate..Plate Soups, stews, corning
Navel Soups, stews, corning
Loin.........Short steak Steaks, roasts
Porterhouse cuts Steaks, roasts
Hip-bone steak Steaks, roasts
Flat-bone steak Steaks, roasts
Round-bone steak Steaks, roasts
Sirloin Steaks
Top sirloin Roasts
Flank Rolled steak, braizing, boiling
Tenderloin Roast
Round........Rump Roasts, corning
Upper round Steaks, roasts
Lower round Steaks, pot roasts, stews
Vein Stews, soups
Shank Soups
Beef Organs..Liver Broiling, frying
Heart Baking, braizing
Tongue Boiling, baking, braizing
Tail Soup
39. The ribs are numbered in the opposite direction from the way in
which they are ordinarily counted; that is, the first rib in a cut of
beef is the one farthest from the head and the thirteenth is the one
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just back of the neck. The first and second ribs are called the back
ribs; the third, fourth, fifth, and sixth, the middle ribs. To prepare
the ribs for sale, they are usually cut into pieces that contain two
ribs, the first and second ribs being known as the first cut, the third
and fourth as the second cut, etc. After being sawed across, the rib
bones are either left in to make a standing rib roast or taken out and
the meat then rolled and fastened together with skewers to make a
rolled roast. Skewers, which are long wooden or metal pins that may be
pushed through meat to fasten it together, will be found useful to the
housewife in preparing many cuts of meat for cooking. They may usually
be obtained at a meat market or a hardware store.
40. Certain of the organs of beef are utilized to a considerable extent,
they are included in Table II. The heart and the tongue are valuable
both because they are economical and because they add variety to the
meat diet of the family. The tongue, either smoked or fresh, may be
boiled and then served hot, or it may be pickled in vinegar and served
cold. The heart may be prepared in the same way, or it may be stuffed
and then baked. The tail of beef makes excellent soup and is much used
for this purpose.
* * * * *
COOKING OF BEEF
STEAKS AND THEIR PREPARATION
41. Steaks Obtained From the Loin. From the loin are cut Delmonico
steaks, porterhouse steaks,hip-bone steaks, flat-bone steaks and
sirloin steaks. When steaks are cut from the flesh of animals in good
condition, they are all very tender and may be used for the quick
methods of cookery, such as broiling.
DELMONICO STEAK, is the smallest steak that can be cut from the loin
and is therefore an excellent cut for a small family. It contains
little or no tenderloin. Sometimes this steak is wrongly called a club
steak, but no confusion will result if it is remembered that a club
steak is a porterhouse steak that has most of the bone and the flank
end, or "tail," removed.
Porterhouse steak contains more tenderloin than any other steak. This
steak also being small in size is a very good cut for a small number of
persons.
Hip-bone steak contains a good-sized piece of tenderloin. Steak of this
kind finds much favor, as it can be served quite advantageously.
Flat-bone steak has a large bone, but it also contains a considerable
amount of fairly solid meat. When a large number of persons are to be
served, this is a very good steak to select.
Sirloin steak contains more solid meat than any of the other steaks cut
from the loin. For this reason, it serves a large number of persons
more advantageously than the others do.
42. Steaks Obtained From the Round.--While the steaks cut from the loin
are usually preferred because of their tenderness, those cut from the
upper round and across the rump are very desirable for many purposes. If
these are not so tender as is desired, the surface may be chopped with
a dull knife in order to make tiny cuts through the fibers, or it may be
pounded with some blunt object, as, for instance, a wooden potato
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masher. What is known as a round steak is a slice that is cut across
the entire round. However, such a steak is often cut into two parts
where the line dividing the round is shown, and either the upper or the
lower piece may be purchased. The upper round is the better piece and
brings a higher price than the whole round or the lower round including
the vein. The quick methods of cookery may be applied to the more
desirable cuts of the round, but the lower round or the vein is
generally used for roasting, braizing, or stewing.
43. Broiled Beefsteak.--As has already been explained, the steaks cut
from the loin are the ones that are generally used for broiling. When
one of these steaks is to be broiled, it should never be less than 1
inch thick, but it may be from 1 to 2-1/2 inches in thickness, according
to the preference of the persons for whom it is prepared. As the flank
end, or "tail," of such steaks is always tough, it should be cut off
before cooking and utilized in the making of soups and such dishes as
require chopped meats. In addition, all superfluous fat should be
removed and then tried out. Beef fat, especially if it is mixed with
lard or other fats, makes excellent shortening; likewise, it may be used
for sauteing various foods.
When a steak has been prepared in this manner, wipe it carefully with a
clean, damp cloth. Heat the broiler very hot and grease the rack with a
little of the beef fat. Then place the steak on the rack, expose it
directly to the rays of a very hot fire, and turn it every 10 seconds
until each side has been exposed several times to the blaze. This is
done in order to sear the entire surface and thus prevent the loss of
the juice. When the surface is sufficiently seared, lower the fire or
move the steak to a cooler place on the stove and then, turning it
frequently, allow it to cook more slowly until it reaches the desired
condition. The broiling of a steak requires from 10 to 20 minutes,
depending on its thickness and whether it is preferred well done or
rare. Place the broiled steak on a hot platter, dot it with butter,
season it with salt and pepper, and serve at once.
44. Pan-Broiled Steak.--If it is impossible to prepare the steak in a
broiler, it may be pan-broiled. In fact, this is a very satisfactory way
to cook any of the tender cuts. To carry out this method, place a heavy
frying pan directly over the fire and allow it to become so hot that the
fat will smoke when put into it. Grease the pan with a small piece of
the beef fat, just enough to prevent the steak from sticking fast. Put
the steak into the hot pan and turn it as soon as it is seared on the
side that touches the pan. After it is seared on the other side, turn it
again and continue to turn it frequently until it has broiled for about
15 minutes. When it is cooked sufficiently to serve, dot it with butter
and season it with salt and pepper. Serve hot.
45. ROLLED STEAK, OR MOCK DUCK.--To have a delicious meat, it is not
always necessary to secure the tender, expensive cuts, for excellent
dishes can be prepared from the cheaper pieces. For instance, steaks cut
from the entire round or thin cuts from the rump can be filled with a
stuffing and then rolled to make rolled steak, or mock duck. This is an
extremely appetizing dish and affords the housewife a chance to give her
family a pleasing variety in the way of meat. The steak used for this
purpose should first be broiled in the way explained in Art. 43. Then it
should be filled with a stuffing made as follows:
STUFFING FOR ROLLED STEAK
1 qt. stale bread crumbs
1 c. stewed tomatoes
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1 small onion
1 Tb. salt
2 Tb. butter
1/4 Tb. pepper
1 c. hot water
Mix all together. Pile on top of the broiled steak and roll the steak
so that the edges lap over each other and the dressing is completely
covered. Fasten together with skewers or tie by wrapping a cord around
the roll. Strips of bacon or salt pork tied to the outside or fastened
with small skewers improve the flavor of the meat. Place in a roasting
pan and bake in a hot oven until the steak is thoroughly baked. This
will require not less than 40 minutes. Cut into slices and serve hot.
46. SKIRT STEAK.--Lying inside the ribs and extending from the second
or third rib to the breast bone is a thin strip of muscle known as a
skirt steak. This is removed before the ribs are cut for roasts, and, as
shown in Fig. 13, is slit through the center with a long, sharp knife to
form a pocket into which stuffing can be put. As a skirt steak is not
expensive and has excellent flavor, it is a very desirable piece
of meat.
To prepare such a steak for the table, stuff it with the stuffing given
for rolled steak in Art. 45, and then fasten the edges together with
skewers. Bake in a hot oven until the steak is well done. Serve hot.
47. SWISS STEAK.--Another very appetizing dish that can be made from the
cheaper steaks is Swiss steak. To be most satisfactory, the steak used
for this purpose should be about an inch thick.
Pound as much dry flour as possible into both sides of the steak by
means of a wooden potato masher. Then brown it on both sides in a hot
frying pan with some of the beef fat. When it is thoroughly browned,
pour a cup of hot water over it, cover the pan tight, and remove to the
back of the stove. Have just enough water on the steak and apply just
enough heat to keep it simmering very slowly for about 1/2 hour. As the
meat cooks, the water will form a gravy by becoming thickened with the
flour that has been pounded into the steak. Serve the steak with
this gravy.
48. HAMBURGER STEAK.--The tougher pieces of beef, such as the flank ends
of the steak and parts of the rump, the round, and the chuck, may be
ground fine by being forced through a food chopper. Such meat is very
frequently combined with egg and then formed into small cakes or patties
to make Hamburger steak. Besides providing a way to utilize pieces of
meat that might otherwise be wasted, this dish affords variety to
the diet.
HAMBURGER STEAK
(Sufficient to Serve Four)
1 lb. chopped beef
1 small onion, chopped
1-1/2 tsp. salt
1 egg (if desired)
1/4 tsp. pepper
Mix the ingredients thoroughly and shape into thin patties. Cook by
broiling in a pan placed in the broiler or by pan-broiling in a hot,
well-greased frying pan. Spread with butter when ready to serve.
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49. PLANKED STEAK.--A dish that the housewife generally considers too
complicated for her, but that may very readily be prepared in the home,
is planked steak. Such a steak gets its name from the fact that a part
of its cooking is done on a hardwood plank, and that the steak, together
with vegetables of various kinds, is served on the plank. Potatoes are
always used as one of the vegetables that are combined with planked
steak, but besides them almost any combination or variety of vegetables
may be used as a garnish. Asparagus tips, string beans, peas, tiny
onions, small carrots, mushrooms, cauliflower, stuffed peppers, and
stuffed tomatoes are the vegetables from which a selection is usually
made. When a tender steak is selected for this purpose and is properly
cooked, and when the vegetables are well prepared and artistically
arranged, no dish can be found that appeals more to the eye and
the taste.
To prepare this dish, broil or pan-broil one of the better cuts of steak
for about 8 minutes. Butter the plank, place the steak on the center of
it and season with salt and pepper. Mash potatoes and to each 2 cupfuls
use 4 tablespoonfuls of milk, 1 tablespoonful of butter, and one egg.
After these materials have been mixed well into the potatoes, arrange a
border of potatoes around the edge of the plank. Then garnish the steak
with whatever vegetables have been selected. Care should be taken to see
that these are properly cooked and well seasoned. If onions, mushrooms,
or carrots are used, it is well to saute them in butter after they are
thoroughly cooked. With the steak thus prepared, place the plank under
the broiler or in a hot oven and allow it to remain there long enough to
brown the potatoes, cook the steak a little more, and thoroughly heat
all the vegetables.
50. VEGETABLES SERVED WITH STEAK.--If an attractive, as well as a tasty,
dish is desired and the housewife has not sufficient time nor the
facilities to prepare a planked steak, a good plan is to saute a
vegetable of some kind and serve it over the steak. For this purpose
numerous vegetables are suitable, but onions, small mushrooms, and
sliced tomatoes are especially desirable. When onions are used, they
should be sliced thin and then sauted in butter until they are soft and
brown. Small mushrooms may be prepared in the same way, or they may be
sauted in the fat that remains in the pan after the steak has been
removed. Tomatoes that are served over steak should be sliced, rolled in
crumbs, and then sauted.
ROASTS AND THEIR PREPARATION
51. FILLET OF BEEF.--A large variety of roasts can be obtained from a
side of beef, but by far the most delicious one is the tenderloin, or
fillet of beef. This is a long strip of meat lying directly under the
chine, or back bone. It is either taken out as a whole, or it is left in
the loin to be cut as a part of the steaks that are obtained from this
section. When it is removed in a whole piece, as shown in Fig. 14, the
steaks that remain in the loin are not so desirable and do not bring
such a good price, because the most tender part of each of them
is removed.
Two different methods of cookery are usually applied to the tenderloin
of beef. Very often, it is cut into slices about 2 inches thick and
then broiled, when it is called broiled fillet, or fillet mignon. If it
is not treated in this way, the whole tenderloin is roasted after being
rolled, or larded, with salt pork to supply the fat that it lacks.
Whichever way it is cooked, the tenderloin always proves to be an
exceptionally tender and delicious cut of beef. However, it is the most
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expensive piece that can be bought, and so is not recommended when
economy must be practiced.
52. CHUCK ROASTS.--While the pieces cut from the chuck are not so
desirable as those obtained from the loin or as the prime ribs, still
the chuck yields very good roasts. These pieces are of a fairly good
quality and if a roast as large as 8 or 10 pounds is desired, they make
an economical one to purchase.
53. RIB ROASTS.--Directly back of the chuck, as has already been
learned, are the prime ribs. From this part of the beef, the best rib
roasts are secured. To prepare this piece for roasting the back bone
and ribs are removed, is rolled into a roll of solid meat. The thin
lower part that is cut off is used for boiling.
54. When only a small roast is wanted, a single rib is often used. In a
roast of this kind, the bone is not removed, but, is sawed in half.
Such a roast is called a standing rib roast. Another small roast,
called a porterhouse roast is obtained by cutting a porterhouse steak
rather thick. It is therefore a very tender and delicious, although
somewhat expensive, roast. Other parts of the loin may also be cut for
roasts, the portion from which sirloin steaks are cut making large and
very delicious roasts.
55. RUMP ROASTS.--Between the loin and the bottom round lies the rump,
and from this may be cut roasts of different kinds. These roasts have a
very good flavor and are very juicy, and if beef in prime condition can
be obtained, they are extremely tender. Besides these advantages, rump
roasts are economical, so they are much favored. To prepare them for
cooking, the butcher generally removes the bone and rolls them.
56. ROAST BEEF.--The usual method of preparing the roasts that have just
been described, particularly the tender ones, is to cook them in the
oven. For this purpose a roasting pan, such as the one previously
described and illustrated, produces the best results, but if one of
these cannot be obtained, a dripping pan may be substituted. When the
meat is first placed in the oven, the oven temperature should be 400 to
450 degrees Fahrenheit, but after the meat has cooked for about 15
minutes, the temperature should be lowered so that the meat will cook
more slowly.
Before putting the roast in the oven, wipe it thoroughly with a damp
cloth. If its surface is not well covered with a layer of fat, place
several pieces of salt pork on it and tie or skewer them fast. Then,
having one of the cut sides up so that it will be exposed to the heat of
the oven, set the piece of meat in a roasting pan or the utensil that is
to be substituted. Dredge, or sprinkle, the surface with flour, salt,
and pepper, and place the pan in the oven, first making sure that the
oven is sufficiently hot. Every 10 or 15 minutes baste the meat with the
fat and the juice that cooks out of it; that is, spoon up this liquid
and pour it over the meat in order to improve the flavor and to prevent
the roast from becoming dry. If necessary, a little water may be added
for basting, but the use of water for this purpose should generally be
avoided. Allow the meat to roast until it is either well done or rare,
according to the way it is preferred. The length of time required for
this process depends so much on the size of the roast, the temperature
of the oven, and the preference of the persons who are to eat the meat,
that definite directions cannot well be given. However, a general idea
of this matter can be obtained by referring to the Cookery Time Table
given in Essentials of Cookery, Part 2, and also to Table I of this
Section, which gives the time required for cooking each pound of meat.
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If desired, gravy may be made from the juice that remains in the pan,
the directions for making gravy being given later.
57. BRAIZED BEEF.--An excellent way in which to cook a piece of beef
that is cut from the rump or lower round is to braize it. This method
consists in placing the meat on a rack over a small quantity of water in
a closed pan and then baking it in the oven for about 4 hours.
Vegetables cut into small pieces are placed in the water and they cook
while the meat is baking. As meat prepared in this way really cooks in
the flavored steam that rises from the vegetables, it becomes very
tender and has a splendid flavor; also, the gravy that may be made from
the liquid that remains adds to its value. In serving it, a spoonful of
the vegetables is generally put on the plate with each piece of meat.
BRAIZED BEEF
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
3 lb. beef from rump or lower round
Flour
Salt
Pepper
2 thin slices salt pork
1/4 c. diced carrots
1/4 c. diced turnips
1/4 c. diced onions
1/4 c. diced celery
3 c. boiling water
Wipe the meat with a damp cloth, and dredge, or sprinkle, it with the
flour, salt, and pepper. Try out the pork and brown the entire surface
of the meat in the fat thus obtained. Then place the meat on a rack in a
deep granite pan, an earthen bowl, or a baking dish, and surround it
with the diced vegetables. Add the boiling water, cover the dish tight,
and place in a slow oven. Bake for about 4 hours at a low temperature.
Then remove the meat to a hot platter, strain out the vegetables, and
make a thickened gravy of the liquid that remains, as explained later.
58. POT-ROASTED BEEF.--The usual, and probably the most satisfactory,
method of preparing the cheaper cuts of beef is to cook them in a heavy
iron pot over a slow fire for several hours. If the proper attention is
given to the preparation of such a roast, usually called a pot roast, it
will prove a very appetizing dish. Potatoes may also be cooked in the
pot with the meat. This is a good plan to follow for it saves fuel and
at the same time offers variety in the cooking of potatoes.
When a piece of beef is to be roasted in a pot, try out in the pot a
little of the beef fat. Then wipe the meat carefully and brown it on all
sides in the fat. Add salt, pepper, and 1/2 cupful of boiling water and
cover the pot tightly. Cook over a slow fire until the water is
evaporated and the meat begins to brown; then add another 1/2 cupful of
water. Continue to do this until the meat has cooked for several hours,
or until the entire surface is well browned and the meat tissue very
tender. Then place the meat on a hot platter and, if desired, make gravy
of the fat that remains in the pan, following the directions given
later. If potatoes are to be cooked with the roast, put them into the
pot around the meat about 45 minutes before the meat is to be removed,
as they will be cooked sufficiently when the roast is done.
59. BEEF LOAF.--Hamburger steak is not always made into small patties
and broiled or sauted. In fact, it is very often combined with cracker
crumbs, milk, and egg, and then well seasoned to make a beef loaf. Since
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there are no bones nor fat to be cut away in serving, this is an
economical dish and should be used occasionally to give variety to the
diet. If desired, a small quantity of salt pork may be combined with the
beef to add flavor.
BEEF LOAF
(Sufficient to Serve Ten)
3 lb. beef
2 Tb. salt
1/4 lb. salt pork
1/4 Tb. pepper
1 c. cracker crumbs
1 small onion
1 c. milk
2 Tb. chopped parsley
1 egg
Put the beef and pork through the food chopper; then mix thoroughly with
the other ingredients. Pack tightly into a loaf-cake pan. Bake in a
moderate oven for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. During the baking, baste frequently
with hot water to which a little butter has been added. Serve either hot
or cold, as desired.
PREPARATION OF STEWS AND CORNED BEEF
60. Cuts Suitable for Stewing and Corning.--Because of the large variety
of cuts obtained from a beef, numerous ways of cooking this meat have
been devised. The tender cuts are, of course, the most desirable and the
most expensive and they do not require the same preparation as the
cheaper cuts. However, the poorer cuts, while not suitable for some
purposes, make very good stews and corned beef. The cuts that are most
satisfactory for stewing and corning are the upper chuck, the shoulder,
and the lower chuck. Besides these pieces, the brisket, the lower part
of the round, and any of the other chuck pieces that do not make good
roasts are excellent for this purpose. In fact, any part that contains
bone and fat, as well as lean, makes well-flavored stew.
61. Beef Stew.--Any of the pieces of beef just mentioned may be used
with vegetables of various kinds to make beef stew. Also left-over
pieces of a roast or a steak may be utilized with other meats in the
making of this dish. If the recipe here given is carefully followed, a
very appetizing as well as nutritious stew will be the result.
BEEF STEW
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)
4 lb. beef
2/3 c. diced carrots
2 Tb. salt
1 small onion, sliced
1/4 Tb. pepper
3 c. potatoes cut into 1/4 in. slices
2/3 c. diced turnips
2 Tb. flour
Wipe the meat and cut it into pieces about 2 inches long. Try out some
of the fat in a frying pan and brown the pieces of meat in it, stirring
the meat constantly so that it will brown evenly. Put the browned meat
into a kettle with the remaining fat and the bone, cover well with
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boiling water, and add the salt and pepper. Cover the kettle with a
tight-fitting lid. Let the meat boil for a minute or two, then reduce
the heat, and allow it to simmer for about 2 hours. For the last hour,
cook the diced turnips, carrots, and onions with the meat, and 20
minutes before serving, add the potatoes. When the meat and vegetables
are sufficiently cooked, remove the bones, fat, and skin; then thicken
the stew with the flour moistened with enough cold water to pour. Pour
into a deep platter or dish and serve with or without dumplings.
62. When dumplings are to be served with beef stew or any dish of this
kind, they may be prepared as follows:
DUMPLINGS
2 c. flour
2 Tb. fat
1/2 Tb. salt
3/4 to 1 c. milk
4 tsp. baking powder
Mix and sift the flour, salt, and baking powder. Chop in the fat with a
knife. Add the milk gradually and mix to form a dough. Toss on a floured
board and roll out or pat until it is about 1 inch thick. Cut into
pieces with a small biscuit cutter. Place these close together in a
buttered steamer and steam over a kettle of hot water for 15 to 18
minutes. Serve with the stew.
If a softer dough that can be cooked with the stew is preferred, 1 1/2
cupfuls of milk instead of 3/4 to 1 cupful should be used. Drop the
dough thus prepared by the spoonful into the stew and boil for about 15
minutes. Keep the kettle tightly covered while the dumplings
are boiling.
63. CORNED BEEF.--It is generally the custom to purchase corned beef,
that is, beef preserved in a brine, at the market; but this is not
necessary, as meat of this kind may be prepared in the home. When the
housewife wishes to corn beef, she will find it an advantage to procure
a large portion of a quarter of beef, part of which may be corned and
kept to be used after the fresh beef has been eaten. Of course, this
plan should be followed only in cold weather, for fresh meat soon spoils
unless it is kept very cold.
To corn beef, prepare a mixture of 10 parts salt to 1 part saltpeter and
rub this into the beef until the salt remains dry on the surface. Put
the meat aside for 24 hours and then rub it again with some of the same
mixture. On the following day, put the beef into a large crock or stone
jar and cover it with a brine made by boiling 2-1/2 gallons of water
into which have been added 2 quarts salt, 2 ounces saltpeter, and 3/4
pound brown sugar. Be careful to cool the brine until it entirely cold
before using it. Allow the beef to remain in the brine for a week before
attempting to use it. Inspect it occasionally, and if it does not appear
to be keeping well, remove it from the brine, rub it again with the salt
mixture, and place it in fresh brine. Beef that is properly corned will
keep an indefinite length of time, but it should be examined, every 2 or
3 days for the first few weeks to see that it is not spoiling.
64. BOILED CORNED BEEF.--The usual way to prepare beef corned in the
manner just explained or corned beef bought at the market is to boil it.
After it becomes sufficiently tender by this method of cooking, it may
be pressed into a desired shape and when cold cut into thin slices. Meat
of this kind makes an excellent dish for a light meal such as luncheon
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or supper.
To boil corned beef, first wipe it thoroughly and roll and tie it. Then
put it into a kettle, cover it with boiling water, and set it over the
fire. When it comes to the boiling point, skim off the scum that forms
on the top. Cook at a low temperature until the meat is tender enough to
be pierced easily with a fork. Then place the meat in a dish or a pan,
pour the broth over it, put a plate on top that will rest on the meat,
and weight it down with something heavy enough to press the meat into
shape. Allow it to remain thus overnight. When cold and thoroughly set,
remove from the pan, cut into thin slices, and serve.
65. BOILED DINNER.--Corned beef is especially adaptable to what is
commonly termed a boiled dinner. Occasionally it is advisable for the
housewife to vary her meals by serving a dinner of this kind. In
addition to offering variety, such a dinner affords her an opportunity
to economize on fuel, especially if gas or electricity is used, for all
of it may be prepared in the same pot and cooked over the same burner.
BOILED DINNER
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
3 lb. corned beef
1 c. sliced turnips
1 small head of cabbage cut into eighths
1 c. sliced potatoes
Pepper and salt
1 c. sliced carrots
Cook the corned beef in the manner explained in Art. 64. When it has
cooked sufficiently, remove it from the water. Into this water, put the
cabbage, carrots, turnips, and potatoes; then add the salt and pepper,
seasoning to taste. Cook until the vegetables are tender. Remove the
vegetables and serve them in vegetable dishes with some of the meat
broth. Reheat the meat before serving.
BEEF ORGANS AND THEIR PREPARATION
66. BOILED TONGUE.--The tongue of beef is much used, for if properly
prepared it makes a delicious meat that may be served hot or cold. It is
usually corned or smoked to preserve it until it can be used. In either
of these forms or in its fresh state, it must be boiled in order to
remove the skin and prepare the meat for further use. If it has been
corned or smoked, it is likely to be very salty, so that it should
usually be soaked overnight to remove the salt.
When boiled tongue is desired, put a fresh tongue or a smoked or a
corned tongue from which the salt has been removed into a kettle of cold
water and allow it to come to a boil. Skim and continue to cook at a low
temperature for 2 hours. Cool enough to handle and then remove the skin
and the roots. Cut into slices and serve hot or cold.
67. PICKLED TONGUE.--A beef tongue prepared in the manner just explained
may be treated in various ways, but a method of preparation that meets
with much favor consists in pickling it. Pickled tongue makes an
excellent meat when a cold dish is required for a light meal or meat for
sandwiches is desired. The pickle required for one tongue contains the
following ingredients:
PICKLE
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1-1/2 c. vinegar
2 c. water
1/4 c. sugar
1 Tb. salt
1/4 Tb. pepper
6 cloves
1 stick cinnamon
Boil all of these ingredients for a few minutes, then add the tongue,
and boil for 15 minutes. Remove from the stove and let stand for 24
hours. Slice and serve cold.
68. BRAIZED TONGUE.--The process of braizing may be applied to tongue as
well as to other parts of beef. In fact, when tongue is cooked in this
way with several kinds of vegetables, it makes a delicious dish that is
pleasing to most persons.
BRAIZED TONGUE
(Sufficient to Serve Eight)
1 fresh tongue
1/3 c. diced carrots
1/3 c. diced onions
1/3 c. diced celery
1 c. stewed tomatoes
2 c. water in which tongue is boiled
Boil the tongue as previously directed, and then skin it and remove the
roots. Place it in a long pan and pour over it the carrots, onions,
celery, stewed tomatoes, and the water. Cover tight and bake in a slow
oven for 2 hours. Serve on a platter with the vegetables and sauce.
69. STUFFED HEART.--If a stuffed meat is desired, nothing more
appetizing can be found than stuffed heart. For this purpose the heart
of a young beef should be selected in order that a tender dish
will result.
After washing the heart and removing the veins and the arteries, make a
stuffing like that given for rolled beefsteak in Art. 45. Stuff the
heart with this dressing, sprinkle salt and pepper over it, and roll it
in flour. Lay several strips of bacon or salt pork across the top, place
in a baking pan, and pour 1 cupful of water into the pan. Cover the pan
tight, set it in a hot oven, and bake slowly for 2 or 3 hours, depending
on the size of the heart. Add water as the water in the pan evaporates,
and baste the heart frequently. When it has baked sufficiently, remove
to a platter and serve at once.
MAKING GRAVY
70. To meats prepared in various ways, gravy--that is, the sauce made
from the drippings or juices that cook out of steaks, roasts, and stews,
or from the broth actually cooked from the meat as for soup--is a
valuable addition, particularly if it is well made and properly
seasoned. A point to remember in this connection is that gravy should be
entirely free from lumps and not too thick. It will be of the right
thickness if 1 to 2 level tablespoonfuls of flour is used for each pint
of liquid. It should also be kept in mind that the best gravy is made
from the brown drippings that contain some fat.
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To make gravy, remove any excess of fat that is not required, and then
pour a little hot water into the pan in order to dissolve the drippings
that are to be used. Add the flour to the fat, stirring until a smooth
paste is formed. Then add the liquid, which may be water or milk, and
stir quickly to prevent the formation of lumps. Season well with salt
and pepper. Another method that also proves satisfactory is to mix the
flour and liquid and then add them to the fat that remains in the pan in
which the meat has been cooked.
TRYING OUT SUET AND OTHER FATS
71. The suet obtained from beef is a valuable source of fat for cooking,
and it should therefore never be thrown away. The process of obtaining
the fat from suet is called trying, and it is always practiced in
homes where economy is the rule.
To try out suet, cut the pieces into half-inch cubes, place them in a
heavy frying pan, and cover them with hot water. Allow this to come to a
boil and cook until the water has evaporated. Continue the heating until
all the fat has been drawn from the tissue. Then pour off all the liquid
fat and squeeze the remaining suet with a potato masher or in a fruit
press. Clean glass or earthen jars are good receptacles in which to keep
the fat thus recovered from the suet.
To try out other fats, proceed in the same way as for trying out suet.
Such fats may be tried by heating them in a pan without water, provided
the work is done carefully enough to prevent them from scorching.
PREPARATION OF LEFT-OVER BEEF
72. As has been shown, meat is both an expensive and a perishable food.
Therefore, some use should be made of every left-over bit of it, no
matter how small, and it should be disposed of quickly in order to
prevent it from spoiling. A point that should not be overlooked in the
use of left-over meats, however, is that they should be prepared so as
to be a contrast to the original preparation and thus avoid monotony in
the food served. This variation may be accomplished by adding other
foods and seasonings and by changing the appearance as much as possible.
For instance, what remains from a roast of beef may be cut in thin
slices and garnished to make an attractive dish; or, left-over meat may
be made very appetizing by cutting it into cubes, reheating it in gravy
or white sauce, and serving it over toast or potato patties. Then there
is the sandwich, which always finds a place in the luncheon. The meat
used for this purpose may be sliced thin or it may be chopped fine, and
then, to increase the quantity, mixed with salad dressing, celery,
olives, chopped pickles, etc. An excellent sandwich is made by placing
thin slices of roast beef between two slices of bread and serving hot
roast-beef gravy over the sandwich thus formed. Still other appetizing
dishes may be prepared from left-over beef as the accompanying
recipes show.
73. MEXICAN BEEF--An extremely appetizing dish, known as Mexican beef,
can be made from any quantity of left-over beef by serving it with a
vegetable sauce. Such a dish needs few accompaniments when it is served
in a light meal, but it may be used very satisfactorily as the main dish
in a heavy meal.
MEXICAN BEEF
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2 Tb. butter
1/2 tsp. salt
1 onion, chopped
1/8 tsp. pepper
1 red pepper
1 tsp. celery salt
1 green pepper
Thin slices roast beef
3/4 c. canned tomatoes
Brown the butter, add the chopped onion, and cook for a few minutes.
Then add the chopped peppers, tomatoes, salt, pepper, and celery salt.
Cook all together for a few minutes and add the thinly sliced roast
beef. When the meat has become thoroughly heated, it is ready to serve.
74. COTTAGE PIE.--A very good way to use up left-over mashed potatoes
as well as roast beef is to combine them and make a cottage pie. In this
dish, mashed potatoes take the place of the crust that is generally put
over the top of a meat pie. If well seasoned and served hot, it makes a
very palatable dish.
To make a cottage pie, cover the bottom of a baking dish with a 2-inch
layer of well-seasoned mashed potatoes. Over this spread left-over roast
beef cut into small pieces. Pour over the meat and potatoes any
left-over gravy and a few drops of onion juice made by grating raw
onion. Cover with a layer of mashed potatoes 1 inch deep. Dot with
butter and place in a hot oven until the pie has heated through and
browned on top. Serve hot.
75. BEEF PIE.--No housewife need be at a loss for a dish that will tempt
her family if she has on hand some left-over pieces of beef, for out of
them she may prepare a beef pie, which is always in favor. Cold roast
beef makes a very good pie, but it is not necessary that roast beef be
used, as left-over steak or even a combination of left-over meats, will
do very well.
Cut into 1-inch cubes whatever kinds of left-over meats are on hand.
Cover with hot water, add a sliced onion, and cook slowly for 1 hour.
Thicken the liquid with flour and season well with salt and pepper. Add
two or three potatoes, cut into 1/4-inch slices, and let them boil for
several minutes. Pour the mixture into a buttered baking dish and cover
it with a baking-powder biscuit mixture. Bake in a hot oven until the
crust is brown. Serve hot.
76. BEEF HASH.--One of the most satisfactory ways in which to utilize
left-over roast beef or corned beef is to cut it into small pieces and
make it into a hash. Cold boiled potatoes that remain from a previous
meal are usually combined with the beef, and onion is added for flavor.
When hash is prepared to resemble an omelet and is garnished with
parsley, it makes an attractive dish.
To make beef hash, remove all skin and bone from the meat, chop quite
fine, and add an equal quantity of chopped cold-boiled potatoes and one
chopped onion. Season with salt and pepper. Put the mixture into a
well-buttered frying pan, moisten with milk, meat stock, or left-over
gravy, and place over a fire. Let the hash brown slowly on the bottom
and then fold over as for an omelet. Serve on a platter garnished
with parsley.
77. FRIZZLED BEEF.--While the dried beef used in the preparation of
frizzled beef is not necessarily a left-over meat, the recipe for this
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dish is given here, as it is usually served at a meal when the preceding
left-over beef dishes are appropriate. Prepared according to this
recipe, frizzled beef will be found both nutritious and appetizing.
FRIZZLED BEEF
(Sufficient to Serve Four)
2 Tb. butter
1/4 lb. thinly sliced dried beef
2 Tb. flour
1 c. milk
4 slices of toast
Brown the butter in a frying pan and add the beef torn into small
pieces. Allow it to cock until the beef becomes brown. Add the flour and
brown it. Pour the milk over all, and cook until the flour thickens the
milk. Serve over the toast.
MEAT (PART 1)
EXAMINATION QUESTIONS
(1) (a) What is meat? (b) What substance in meat makes it a valuable
food?
(2) (a) What do protein foods do for the body? (b) How does meat
compare in cost with the other daily foods?
(3) What harm may occur from eating meat that is not thoroughly cooked?
(4) (a) Describe the structure of meat, (b) How do the length and
the direction of the fibers affect the tenderness of meat?
(5) (a) How may gelatine be obtained from meat? (b) What use is made
of this material?
(6) (a) Describe the two kinds of fat found in meat, (b) What does
this substance supply to the body?
(7) (a) What is the value of water in the tissues of meat? (b) How
does its presence affect the cookery method to choose for
preparing meat?
(8) (a) What are extractives? (b) Why are they of value in meat?
(9) (a) Name the ways by which the housewife may reduce her meat bill,
(b) How should meat be cared for in the home?
(10) Give three reasons for cooking meat.
(11) (a) Describe the effect of cooking on the materials contained in
meat, (b) How does cooking affect the digestibility of meat?
(12) What methods of cookery are used for: (a) the tender cuts of
meat? (b) the tough cuts? (c) Mention the cuts of meat that have the
most flavor.
(13) (a) How should the temperature of the oven vary with the size of
the roast to be cooked? (b) Give the reason for this.
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(14) Describe beef of good quality.
(15) In what parts of the animal are found: (a) the cheaper cuts of
beef? (b) the more expensive cuts?
(16) (a) Name the steaks obtained from the loin, (b) Which of these
is best for a large family? (c) Which is best for a small family?
(17) Describe the way in which to broil steak.
(18) (a) What is the tenderloin of beef? (b) Explain the two ways of
cooking it.
(19) (a) Name the various kinds of roasts, (b) Describe the roasting
of beef in the oven.
(20) (a) What cuts of beef are most satisfactory for stews? (b)
Explain how beef stew is made.
* * * * *
MEAT (PART 2)
* * * * *
VEAL
NATURE OF VEAL
1. Veal is the name applied to the flesh of a slaughtered calf. This
kind of meat is at its best in animals that are from 6 weeks to 3 months
old when killed. Calves younger than 6 weeks are sometimes slaughtered,
but their meat is of poor quality and should be avoided. Meat from a
calf that has not reached the age of 3 weeks is called bob veal. Such
meat is pale, dry, tough, and indigestible and, consequently, unfit for
food. In most states the laws strictly forbid the sale of bob veal for
food, but constant vigilance must be exercised to safeguard the public
from unscrupulous dealers. A calf that goes beyond the age of 3 months
without being slaughtered must be kept and fattened until it reaches the
age at which it can be profitably sold as beef, for it is too old to be
used as veal.
2. The nature of veal can be more readily comprehended by comparing it
with beef, the characteristics of which are now understood. Veal is
lighter in color than beef, being more nearly pink than red, and it
contains very little fat, as reference to Fig. 1, Meat, Part 1, will
show. The tissues of veal contain less nutriment than those of beef, but
they contain more gelatine. The flavor of veal is less pronounced than
that of beef, the difference between the age of animals used for veal
and those used for beef being responsible for this lack of flavor. These
characteristics, as well as the difference in size of corresponding
cuts, make it easy to distinguish veal from beef in the market.
CUTS OF VEAL, AND THEIR USES
3. The slaughtered calf from which veal is obtained is generally
delivered to the butcher with the head, feet, and intestines removed
and the carcass split into halves through the spine. He divides each
half into quarters, known as the fore quarter and the hind quarter, and
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cuts these into smaller pieces.
4. FORE QUARTER.--The fore quarter is composed of the neck, chuck,
shoulder, fore shank, breast, and ribs. Frequently, no distinction is
made between the neck and the chuck, both of these pieces and the fore
shank being used for soups and stews. The shoulder is cut from the ribs
lying underneath, and it is generally used for roasting, often with
stuffing rolled inside of it. The breast, which is the under part of
the fore quarter and corresponds to the plate in beef, is suitable for
either roasting or stewing. When the rib bones are removed from it, a
pocket that will hold stuffing can be cut into this piece. The ribs
between the shoulder and the loin are called the rack; they may be cut
into chops or used as one piece for roasting.
5. HIND QUARTER.--The hind quarter is divided into the loin, flank,
leg, and hind shank. The loin and the flank are located similarly to
these same cuts in beef. In some localities, the part of veal
corresponding to the rump of beef is included with the loin, and in
others it is cut as part of the leg. When it is part of the leg, the leg
is cut off just in front of the hip bone and is separated from the lower
part of the leg, or hind shank, immediately below the hip joint. This
piece is often used for roasting, although cutlets or steaks may be cut
from it. The hind shank, which, together with the fore shank, is called
a knuckle, is used for soup making. When the loin and flank are cut in
a single piece, they are used for roasting.
6. VEAL ORGANS.--Certain of the organs of the calf, like those of beef
animals, are used for food. They include the heart, tongue, liver, and
kidneys, as well as the thymus and thyroid glands and the pancreas. The
heart and tongue of veal are more delicate in texture and flavor than
those of beef, but the methods of cooking them are practically the same.
The liver and kidneys of calves make very appetizing dishes and find
favor with many persons. The thymus and thyroid glands and the pancreas
are included under the term sweetbreads. The thymus gland, which lies
near the heart and is often called the heart sweetbread, is the best
one. The thyroid gland lies in the throat and is called the throat
sweetbread. These two glands are joined by a connecting membrane, but
this is often broken and each gland sold as a separate sweetbread. The
pancreas, which is the stomach sweetbread, is used less often than
the others.
7. Table of Veal Cuts.--The various cuts of veal, together with their
uses, are arranged for ready reference in Table I. Therefore, so that
the housewife may become thoroughly familiar with these facts about
veal, she is urged to make a careful study of this table.
TABLE I
NAMES OF VEAL CUTS AND ORGANS AND THEIR USES
NAME OF LARGE CUT NAME OF SMALL CUT USES OF CUTS
/ Head Soup, made dishes, gelatine
| Breast Stew, made dishes, gelatine
Fore Quarter | Ribs Stew, made dishes, chops
| Shoulder Stew, made dishes
\ Neck Stew or stock, made dishes
/ Loin Chops, roasts
Hind Quarter | Leg Cutlets or fillet, sauteing, or
roasting
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\ Knuckle Stocks, stews
/ Brains Made dishes, chafing dish
| Liver Broiling, sauteing
Veal Organs | Heart Stuffed, baked
| Tongue Broiled, braised
| Sweetbreads Made dishes, chafing dish
\ Kidneys Boiled, stew
COOKING OF VEAL
VEAL CUTS AND THEIR PREPARATION
8. In the preparation of veal, an important point to remember is that
meat of this kind always requires thorough cooking. It should never be
served rare. Because of the long cooking veal needs, together with the
difficulty encountered in chewing it and its somewhat insipid flavor,
which fails to excite the free flow of gastric juice, this meat is more
indigestable than beef. In order to render it easier to digest, since it
must be thoroughly cooked, the long, slow methods of cookery should be
selected, as these soften the connective tissue. Because of the lack of
flavor, veal is not so good as beef when the extraction of flavor is
desired for broth. However, the absence of flavor makes veal a valuable
meat to combine with chicken and the more expensive meats, particularly
in highly seasoned made dishes or salads. Although lacking in flavor,
veal contains more gelatine than other meats. While this substance is
not very valuable as a food, it lends body to soup or broth and assists
in the preparation of certain made dishes. To supply the flavor needed
in dishes of this kind, pork is sometimes used with the veal.
9. Veal Steaks or Cutlets.--Strictly speaking, veal cutlets are cut from
the ribs; however, a thin slice cut from the leg, as shown in Fig. 2,
while in reality a steak, is considered by most housewives and butchers
as a cutlet. A piece cut from the leg of veal corresponds to a cut of
round steak in beef.
10. Pan-Broiled Veal Steak or Cutlets.--Several methods of preparing
veal steak or cutlets are in practice, but a very satisfactory one is to
pan-broil them. This method prevents the juices from being drawn out of
the meat and consequently produces a tender, palatable dish.
To pan-broil veal steak or cutlets, grease a hot frying pan with fat of
any desirable kind, place the pieces of meat in it, and allow them to
sear, first on one side and then on the other. When they are completely
seared, lower the temperature, and broil for 15 to 20 minutes, or longer
if necessary. Season well with salt and pepper. When cooked, remove to a
platter and, just before serving, pour melted butter over the meat.
11. Veal Cutlets in Brown Sauce.--To improve the flavor of veal cutlets,
a brown sauce is often prepared and served with them. In fact, the
cutlets are cooked in this sauce, which becomes thickened by the flour
that is used to dredge the meat.
To cook cutlets in this way, dredge them with flour, season them with
salt and pepper, and saute them in hot fat until the flour is quite
brown. Then pour 1 cupful of milk and 1 cupful of water over the meat,
cover the pan securely, and allow to cook slowly for about 3/4 hour. The
sauce should be slightly thick and quite brown. Serve the cutlets in the
brown sauce.
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12. Veal Roasts.--Several different cuts of veal make very good roasts.
The most economical one is a 5 or 6-inch slice cut from the leg of veal.
Both the loin and the best end of the neck are excellent for roasting.
The shoulder of veal is sometimes roasted, but it is more often used
for stew. Veal breast from which the ribs have been removed and veal
rack, which is the portion of the ribs attached to the neck, may also
be used for roasting. When they are, they are usually cut so as to
contain a deep slit, or pocket, that may be filled with stuffing. In
fact, whenever it is possible, the bone is removed from a piece of
roasting veal and stuffing is put in its place.
To roast any of these pieces, wipe the meat, dredge it with flour, and
season it with salt and pepper. Place it in a roasting pan and put it
into a hot oven. Bake for 15 minutes; then lower the temperature of the
oven and continue to bake slowly until the meat is well done, the
length of time depending on the size of the roast. Baste frequently
during the roasting. Remove the roast to a hot platter. Then place the
roasting pan over the flame, and make gravy by browning 2 tablespoonfuls
of flour in the fat that it contains, adding to this 1-1/2 cupfuls of
water, and cooking until the flour has thickened the water. Serve the
gravy thus prepared in a gravy bowl.
13. Stuffed Veal Breast.-- When such a piece is desired for roasting,
it is advisable to have the butcher prepare it. The stuffing required
should be made as follows:
STUFFING FOR VEAL
4 Tb. butter or bacon or ham fat
1/2 Tb. salt
1/8 Tb. pepper
1 Tb. celery salt
2 sprigs of parsley, chopped
1 pimiento, chopped
1-1/2 c. water
1 qt. stale bread crumbs
Melt the fat, and to it add the salt, pepper, celery salt, parsley,
pimiento, and water. Pour this mixture over the crumbs, and mix all
thoroughly. Stuff into the opening in the breast. Place the meat thus
stuffed in a baking pan and bake in a moderately hot oven for 1 to
1-1/2 hours.
14. Veal Potpie.--A good way in which to impart the flavor of meat to a
starchy material and thus not only economize on meat, but also provide
an appetizing dish, is to serve meat with dumplings in a veal potpie.
For such a dish, a piece of veal from the shoulder is the best cut. To
give variety, potatoes may be used, and to improve the flavor at least
one onion is cooked with the meat.
To prepare a veal potpie, wipe the meat, cut it into pieces of the right
size for serving, and to it add a few pieces of salt pork or bacon. Put
these over the fire in enough cold water to cover the meat well and add
a small onion, sliced. Bring to the boiling point and skim; then simmer
until the meat is tender. Season with salt and pepper a few minutes
before the meat has finished cooking. Next, make a baking-powder biscuit
dough, roll it 1/4 inch thick, and cut it into 1-1/2-inch squares. Then
examine the meat to see how much of the liquid has evaporated. If the
liquid is too thick, add boiling water to thin it. Drop in the squares
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of dough, cover the pot tight, and boil for 15 minutes without
uncovering.
If potatoes are desired in a pie of this kind, cut them into thick
slices and add the slices about 10 minutes before the dough is to be put
into the broth, so that they will have sufficient time in which to cook.
15. Veal Stew.--The cheaper cuts of veal can be used to advantage for
making veal stew. Such a dish is prepared in the same way as beef stew,
which is explained in Meat, Part 1, except that veal is substituted
for the beef. Vegetables of any desired kind may be used in veal stew,
and the stewed or boiled dumplings mentioned in the beef-stew recipe may
or may not be used. As the vegetables and the dumplings, provided
dumplings are used, increase the quantity of meat-flavored food, only
small portions of the meat need be served.
16. Jellied Veal.--The large amount of gelatine contained in veal may be
utilized in the preparation of jellied veal. The most satisfactory piece
for making jellied veal is the knuckle, or shank. No more attractive
meat dish than this can be found for luncheon or supper, for it can be
cut into thin slices and served on a nicely garnished platter.
JELLIED VEAL
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
Knuckle of veal
1 Tb. salt
1/4 c. chopped celery
1 Tb. chopped parsley
1 Tb. chopped onion
Put the knuckle in a pot and add enough water to cover it. Add the salt,
celery, parsley, and onion. Cook until the meat is very tender and then
strain off the liquid. Cut the meat from the bones and chop it very
fine. Boil the liquid until it is reduced to 1 pint, and then set aside
to cool. Place the meat in a mold and when cold pour the broth over it.
Keep in a cool place until it has set. Slice and serve cold.
VEAL ORGANS AND THEIR PREPARATION
17. Getting Sweetbreads Ready for Cooking--The throat glands and the
pancreas of calves, which, as has already been learned, are called
sweetbreads, can be cooked in various ways for the table. The first
process in their preparation, however, is the same for all recipes. When
this is understood, it will be a simple matter to make up attractive
dishes in which sweetbreads are used. It is generally advisable to buy
sweetbreads in pairs, as the heart and throat sweetbreads are preferable
to the one that lies near the stomach. Sweetbreads spoil very quickly.
Therefore, as soon as they are brought into the kitchen, put them in
cold water and allow them to remain there for 1/2 hour or more. Then put
them to cook in boiling water for 20 minutes in order to parboil them,
after which place them in cold water again. Unless they are to be used
immediately, keep them in cold water, as this will prevent them from
discoloring. Before using sweetbreads in the recipes that follow, remove
the skin and stringy parts.
18. Broiled Sweetbreads.--Because of their tenderness, sweetbreads are
especially suitable for broiling. When prepared in this way and served
with sauce of some kind, they are very palatable.
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In order to broil sweetbreads, first parboil them in the manner just
explained. Then split each one lengthwise and broil them over a clear
fire for 5 minutes or pan-broil them with a small amount of butter until
both surfaces are slightly browned. Season with salt and pepper.
Serve hot.
19. Creamed Sweetbreads.--If an especially dainty dish is desired for a
light meal, sweetbreads may be creamed and then served over toast or in
patty shells or timbale cases, the making of which is taken up later. If
desired, mushrooms may be combined with sweetbreads that are served in
this way. Diced cold veal or calves' brains creamed and served in this
way are also delicious. Instead of creaming sweetbreads and calves'
brains, however, these organs are sometimes scrambled with eggs.
To prepare creamed sweetbreads, parboil them and then separate them
into small pieces with a fork or cut them into cubes. Reheat them in a
cupful of white sauce, season well, and then serve them in any of the
ways just mentioned. If mushrooms are to be used, cook and dice them
before combining them with the sweetbreads.
20. Kidneys.--The kidneys of both lamb and veal are used for food. The
cooking of them, however, must be either a quick, short process or a
long, slow one. When a quick method is applied, the tissues remain
tender. Additional cooking renders them tough, so that a great deal more
cooking must be done to make them tender again. Whatever method is
applied, kidneys must always be soaked in water for 1 hour or more so as
to cleanse them, the outside covering then pared off, and the meat
sliced or cut into cubes or strips. After being thus prepared, kidneys
may be broiled or sauted, or, if a long method of cookery is preferred,
they may be boiled or stewed with or without vegetables.
21. Calves' Liver and Bacon.--Beef liver is sometimes used for food, but
it is not so good as liver from the calf. In fact, calves' liver,
especially when combined with bacon, is very appetizing. The bacon
supplies the fat that the liver lacks and at the same time
provides flavor.
To prepare calves' liver and bacon, cut the liver into 1/2-inch slices,
cover these with boiling water, and let them stand for 5 minutes. Remove
from the water, dip into flour, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. For
each slice of liver pan-broil a slice of bacon. Remove the bacon to a
hot platter, and then place the slices of liver in the bacon fat and
saute them for about 10 minutes, turning them frequently. Serve the
liver and bacon together.
PREPARATION OF LEFT-OVER VEAL
22. Veal Rolls.--The portion of a veal roast that remains after it has
been served hot can be combined with dressing to make veal rolls, a dish
that will be a pleasing change from the usual cold sliced meat.
To make veal rolls, slice the veal and into each slice roll a spoonful
of stuffing. Tie with a string, roll in flour, and sprinkle with salt
and pepper. Brown the rolls in hot butter. Then pour milk, stock, or
gravy over the rolls and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the strings and
serve on toast.
23. Left-Over Jellied Veal.--While jellied veal is usually made from a
piece of veal bought especially for this purpose, it can be made from
the left-overs of a veal roast. However, when the roast is purchased,
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some veal bones should be secured. Wash these bones, cover them with
cold water, and to them add 1 onion, 1 bay leaf, and 1 cupful of diced
vegetables, preferably celery, carrots, and turnips. Allow these to
simmer for 2 hours. To this stock add the bones that remain after the
roast has been served and simmer for 1 or 2 hours more. Strain the
stock, skim off the fat, and season well with salt and pepper. Chop fine
the left-over veal and 2 hard-cooked eggs. Put in a loaf-cake pan and
pour the stock over it. When it has formed a mold, slice and serve cold.
24. Creamed Veal on Biscuits.--A very good substitute for chicken and
hot biscuits is creamed veal served on biscuits. This is an especially
good dish for a light meal, such as luncheon or supper. Any left-over
veal may be chopped or cut up into small pieces and used for this
purpose. After the veal has been thus prepared, reheat it with white
sauce and season it well with paprika, salt, and pepper. Make
baking-powder biscuits. To serve, split the hot biscuits, lay them open
on a platter or a plate, and pour the hot creamed veal over them.
25. Scalloped Veal with Rice.--A very palatable dish can be prepared
from left-over veal by combining it with rice and tomatoes. To prepare
such a dish, season cooked rice with 1 teaspoonful of bacon fat to each
cupful of rice. Place a layer of rice in a baking dish, and over it put
a layer of chopped veal. Pour a good quantity of stewed tomatoes over
the veal and season well with salt and pepper. Over the tomatoes put a
layer of rice, and cover the top with buttered crumbs. Set in a hot oven
and bake until the crumbs are browned and the ingredients
thoroughly heated.
26. Veal Salad.--A salad is always a delightful addition to a meal and
so usually finds favor. When it is made of meat, such as veal, it can be
used as the main dish for luncheon or supper. As shown in the
accompanying recipe, other things, such as celery, peas, and hard-cooked
eggs, are usually put in a salad of this kind.
VEAL SALAD
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 c. cold diced veal
1 c. diced celery
1/2 c. canned peas
3 hard-cooked eggs
4 Tb. olive oil
2 Tb. vinegar
1/2 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Combine the veal, celery, peas, and eggs chopped fine. Mix the olive
oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper to make a dressing. Marinate the
ingredients with this dressing. Serve on lettuce leaves with any salad
dressing desired.
MUTTON AND LAMB
COMPARISON OF MUTTON AND LAMB
27. The term mutton is usually applied to the flesh of a sheep that is 1
year or more old, while lamb is the flesh of sheep under 1 year of age.
The popularity of these meats varies very much with the locality. In the
United States, a preference for lamb has become noticeable, but in
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England mutton is more popular and is more commonly used. Both of these
meats, however, are very palatable and nutritious, so that the choice
of one or the other will always be determined by the taste or market
conditions.
28. Lamb that is 6 weeks to 3 months old is called spring lamb, and
usually comes into the market in January or February. The meat of sheep
1 year old is called yearling. Good mutton is cut from sheep that is
about 3 years old. Lamb may be eaten as soon as it is killed, but mutton
requires ripening for 2 or 3 weeks to be in the best condition for food.
Mutton differs from lamb very much as beef differs from veal, or as the
meat of any other mature animal differs from a young one of the same
kind. In mutton there is a smaller percentage of water and a larger
percentage of fat, protein, extractives, and flavoring substances.
There is also a difference in the appearance of these two meats. Lamb is
pink and contains only small amounts of fat, while mutton is brick red
and usually has considerable firm white fat. The bones of lamb are pink,
while those of mutton are white. The outside of lamb is covered with a
thin white skin that becomes pink in mutton. The size of the pieces of
meat often aids in distinguishing between these two meats, mutton, of
course, coming in larger pieces than lamb.
29. If there is any question as to whether the meat from sheep is lamb
or mutton, and it cannot be settled by any of the characteristics
already mentioned, the front leg of the dressed animal may be examined
at the first joint above the foot. In lamb, the end of the bone can
be separated from the long bone at the leg, as indicated, while in
mutton this joint grows fast. The joint is jagged in lamb, but smooth
and round in mutton.
CUTS OF MUTTON AND LAMB
METHOD OF OBTAINING CUTS
30. Mutton and lamb are usually cut up in the same way, the dressed
animal being divided into two pieces of almost equal weight. The line of
division occurs between the first and second ribs, as is indicated by
the heavy middle line in Fig. 6. The back half of the animal is called
the saddle and the front half, the rack. In addition to being cut in
this way, the animal is cut down the entire length of the backbone and
is thus divided into the fore and hind quarters.
The method of cutting up the racks and saddles varies in different
localities, the rack, or fore quarter, is cut up into the neck, chuck,
shoulder, rib chops, and breast; and the saddle, or hind quarter, is
divided into the loin, flank, and leg.
The membrane, which extends from the legs down over the ribs, is the
omentum, or covering of the intestines, and is known as the caul. This
must be removed from any part that it covers before the meat is cooked.
NAMES AND USES OF CUTS
31. Distinguishing Features of Cuts.--When the uses of the cuts of lamb
and mutton are to be considered, attention must be given to the anatomy
of the animal and the exercise that the different parts have received
during life. This is important, because the continued action of the
muscles tends to make the flesh tough, but, at the same time, it
increases the amount of extractives or flavoring material. Therefore,
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meat taken from a part that has been subjected to much muscular action
is likely to need longer cooking than that taken from portions that have
not been exercised so much.
In lamb and mutton, as in beef and veal, the hind quarter is exercised
less in life than the fore quarter and consequently is, on the average,
more tender. The cuts from this part are therefore more expensive and
more suitable for roasting and broiling. The fore quarter, although
having the disadvantage of containing more bone and being tougher, is
more abundantly supplied with extractives and flavoring materials. Most
of the pieces obtained from this portion are particularly suitable for
broths, soups, stews, etc. The rib is an exception, for this is usually
higher in price than the hind-quarter pieces and is used for chops
and roasts.
32. Table of Mutton and Lamb Cuts.--The various cuts of mutton and lamb
and the uses to which they can be put are given in Table II, which may
be followed as a guide whenever there is doubt as to the way in which a
cut of either of these meats should be cooked.
TABLE II
NAMES AND USES OF MUTTON AND LAMB CUTS
NAME OF LARGE CUT NAME OF SMALL CUT USES OF CUTS
Fore quarter:
Neck...................Broth, stew
Chuck.................. Stew, steamed
Shoulder................Boiled, steamed, braised, roast
Rack ribs...............Chops, crown roast
Breast.................. Stew, roast, braised, stuffed
Hind quarter:
Loin.................... Seven chops, roast, boiling
Flank................... Stew
Leg..................... Roast, braising, broiling
Saddle.................. Roast
COOKING OF MUTTON AND LAMB
PREPARATION OF ROASTS, CHOPS, AND STEWS
33. The cookery processes applied in preparing mutton and lamb for the
table do not differ materially from those applied in the preparation of
other meats. However, directions for cooking mutton and lamb in the most
practical ways are here given, so that the housewife may become
thoroughly familiar with the procedure in preparing roasts, chops,
and stews.
34. Roast Leg of Mutton or Lamb.--Of all the principal cuts of mutton or
lamb, the leg contains the smallest percentage of waste. It is,
therefore, especially suitable for roasting and is generally used for
this purpose. In order to make the leg smaller, a slice resembling a
round steak of beef is sometimes cut for broiling, as here shown. If
desired, the leg may be boned and then stuffed before roasting. Since
these meats are characterized by a very marked flavor, something tart
or acid is generally served with them.
To roast a leg of lamb or mutton, remove the caul, the pink skin, and
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the superfluous fat. Dredge the leg with flour, salt, and pepper, set in
a roasting pan, and place in a hot oven. After the meat has cooked for
15 minutes, lower the temperature, and bake for 2 hours. Baste
frequently with water to which has been added a small amount of bacon or
ham fat and which should be put in the pan with the meat. Serve hot with
something acid, such as mint sauce, currant or mint jelly, or spiced
fruit.
A mint sauce that will be found satisfactory for this purpose is made as
follows:
MINT SAUCE
2 Tb. powdered sugar
1/2 c. vinegar
1/4 c. finely chopped mint leaves,
or 2 Tb. dried mint
Add the sugar to the vinegar and heat. Pour this over the mint and steep
on the back of the stove for 30 minutes.
35. Roast Saddle of Mutton.--While saddle is the name applied to the
hind quarters of lamb and mutton, this term, as used in the cooking of
such meat, refers to the piece that consists of the two sides of the
loin cut off in one piece. It may be cut with or without the flank. In
either form, it is rolled and then skewered or tied into shape.
To roast such a piece, remove all superfluous fat, dredge with flour,
salt, and pepper, place in a pan, and sear in a hot oven. Then reduce
the heat, place a small quantity of water in the pan, and bake for 2-1/2
to 3 hours, basting from time to time during this cooking process. Serve
with or without mint sauce, as desired.
36. Crown Roast of Lamb.--A very attractive roast is made by cutting the
same number of corresponding ribs from each side of the lamb and
trimming back the meat from the end of each rib and paper frills placed
on the ends of the bones. Such frills are usually added by the butcher,
but they may be purchased in supply stores and put on in the home.
To prepare a roast of this kind, cook in the same way as a roast leg or
saddle. When it is sufficiently baked, fill the center with a cooked and
seasoned vegetable. Brussels sprouts, peas, string beans, asparagus, and
cauliflower are especially suitable for this purpose. Just before
serving, cover the ends of the bones with paper frills.
37. Lamb and Mutton Chops.--Chops of mutton or lamb are obtained from
two sources. They may be cut from the ribs and have one bone in each cut
or they may be cut from the loin, when they correspond to the steaks
in beef. A rib chop cut from this piece has only a small part of solid
lean meat and contains one rib bone. Such a chop can be made into a
French chop by trimming the meat from the bone down to the lean part,
or "eye," of the chop. Just before being served, a paper frill may be
placed over the bone of a chop of this kind. Chops cut from the loin
often have a strip of bacon or salt pork rolled around the edge and
fastened with a skewer.
38. The most satisfactory way in which to prepare chops is either to
broil them in a broiler or to pan-broil them. Apply to the cooking of
them the same principles that relate to the preparation of steaks; that
is, have the pan or broiler hot, sear the chops quickly on both sides,
and then cook them more slowly until well done, turning them
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frequently. The broiling of lamb chops should require only from 8 to 10
minutes, as they are seldom more than 1 inch thick.
39. Lamb and Mutton Stews.--The cheaper cuts of lamb and mutton, such as
the neck, chuck, and flank, are used for the making of stews. Mutton,
however, is not so satisfactory as lamb for such dishes, as its flavor
is too strong. If mutton must be used, its flavor can be improved by
adding 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar during the cooking. The chief
object in the making of lamb and mutton stews is, as in the case of beef
and veal stews, to draw from the meat as much as possible of the
flavoring and nutritive materials.
This can be accomplished by cutting up the meat into small pieces so as
to increase the amount of surface exposed and by keeping the temperature
low enough to prevent the proteins from coagulating.
With these points in mind, proceed in the making of lamb or mutton stew
in the same way as for beef stew. To improve the flavor of the stew,
cook with it savory herbs and spices, such as bay leaf, parsley,
and cloves.
PREPARATION OF LEFT-OVER LAMB AND MUTTON
40. Turkish Lamb.--No left-over meat lends itself more readily to the
preparation of made dishes than lamb. Combined with tomatoes and rice
and flavored with horseradish, it makes a very appetizing dish called
Turkish lamb. The accompanying recipe should be carefully followed in
preparing this dish.
TURKISH LAMB
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 Tb. butter
1 onion, chopped
1/2 c. rice
1 c. water
1 c. stewed tomatoes
1-1/2 c. diced lamb or mutton
1 Tb. horseradish
1 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Put the butter in a frying pan and to it add the chopped onion and the
dry rice. Cook until the rice is browned. Then pour in the water and
tomatoes and add the meat, horseradish, salt, and pepper. Simmer gently
until the rice is completely cooked.
41. MINCED LAMB ON TOAST.--Any lamb that remains after a meal may be
minced by chopping it fine or putting it through the food chopper. If it
is then heated, moistened well with water or stock, and thickened
slightly, it makes an excellent preparation to serve on toast.
After mincing lean pieces of left-over lamb until they are very fine,
put them in a buttered frying pan. Dredge the meat well with flour and
allow it to brown slightly. Add enough water or stock to moisten well.
Season with salt and pepper, cook until the flour has thickened, and
then serve on toast.
42. SCALLOPED LAMB OR MUTTON.--As a scalloped dish is usually pleasing
to most persons, the accompanying recipe for scalloped lamb or mutton
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will undoubtedly find favor. Both macaroni and tomatoes are combined
with the meat in this dish, but rice could be substituted for the
macaroni, if desired.
To make scalloped lamb or mutton, arrange a layer of buttered crumbs in
a baking dish, and on top of them place a layer of cooked macaroni, a
layer of meat, and then another layer of macaroni. Over this pour enough
stewed tomato to moisten the whole well. Season each layer with salt,
pepper, and butter. Over the top, place a layer of buttered crumbs. Bake
in a medium-hot oven until the whole is thoroughly heated.
43. SPANISH STEW.--Left-over pieces of mutton or lamb may also form the
foundation of a very appetizing dish known as Spanish stew. Here
tomatoes are also used, and to give the stew flavor chilli sauce
is added.
SPANISH STEW
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 Tb. butter.
1 onion, sliced
1 Tb. flour
2 c. lamb or mutton, diced
1-1/2 c. stewed tomatoes
1 c. stock or gravy
1 Tb. chilli sauce
1 red pepper, cut fine
2 tsp. salt
Put the butter in a frying pan and brown the sliced onion in it. Add the
flour and meat, and after browning them pour in the stewed tomatoes and
the stock or gravy. Season with the chilli sauce, the red pepper, and
the salt. Cover and let simmer until the whole is well thickened
and blended.
44. INDIVIDUAL LAMB PIES.--Individual pies are always welcome, but when
they are made of lamb or mutton they are especially attractive. The
proportions required for pies of this kind are given in the
accompanying recipe.
INDIVIDUAL LAMB PIES
2 c. diced lamb or mutton
1/2 c. diced carrots
1/2 c. peas, cooked or canned
1 c. gravy or thickened stock
Cut into small pieces any left-over lamb or mutton. Cook the carrots
until they are soft, add them, together with the peas, to the meat, and
pour the gravy or thickened stock over all. Simmer gently for a few
minutes. Line patty pans with a thin layer of baking-powder biscuit
dough, fill with the mixture, and cover the top with another thin layer
of the dough. Bake in a quick oven until the dough is baked.
* * * * *
PORK
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF PORK
45. PORK is the flesh of slaughtered swine used as food. It is believed
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to be more indigestible than other meats, but if it is obtained from a
young and properly fed animal, it is not only digestible, but highly
appetizing, and, when eaten occasionally, it is very wholesome.
The age of the animal from which pork is cut can be determined by the
thickness of the skin; the older the animal, the thicker the skin. To be
of the best kind, pork should have pink, not red, flesh composed of
fine-grained tissues, and its fat, which, in a well-fattened animal,
equals about one-eighth of the entire weight, should be white and firm.
Although all cuts of pork contain some fat, the proportion should not be
too great, or the pieces will not contain as much lean as they should.
However, the large amount of fat contained in pork makes its food value
higher than that of other meats, unless they are excessively fat, and
consequently difficult of digestion.
46. One of the chief advantages of pork is that about nine-tenths of
the entire dressed animal may be preserved by curing and smoking.
Originally, these processes required a period of 2 to 3 months for their
completion, but they have gradually been shortened until now only a few
days are required for the work. Pork cured and smoked by the new
methods, however, does not possess such excellent flavor and such good
keeping qualities as that so treated by the longer process. Any one who
has the right storage facilities to care for the meat properly will find
it much more economical to purchase a whole carcass or a part of one and
then salt, smoke, or pickle the various pieces that can be treated in
this way than to purchase this meat cut by cut as it is needed
or desired.
CUTS OF PORK
47. NAMES OF PORK CUTS.--The butcher usually buys a whole carcass of
pork. He first divides it into halves by splitting it through the spine,
and then cuts it up into smaller pieces. As will be observed, the
method of cutting up a hog differs greatly from the cutting of the
animals already studied. After the head is removed, each side is
divided into the shoulder, clear back fat, ribs, loin, middle cut,
belly, ham, and two hocks.
48. USES OF PORK CUTS.--Hogs are usually fattened before they are
slaughtered, and as a result there is a layer of fat under the skin
which is trimmed off and used in the making of lard. The best quality of
lard, however, is made from the fat that surrounds the kidneys. This is
called leaf lard, because the pieces of fat are similar in shape to
leaves. Such lard has a higher melting point and is more flaky than that
made from fat covering the muscles.
49. The head of pork does not contain a great deal of meat, but, as the
quality of this meat is very good, it is valuable for a number of
special dishes, such as headcheese and scrapple.
The hocks contain considerable gelatine, so they are used for dishes
that solidify, or become firm, after they are made.
50. A shoulder of pork is cut roughly from the carcass. This piece
provides both roasts and steaks, or, when trimmed, it may be cured or
smoked. The front leg, which is usually cut to include the lower part
of the shoulder. The ribs inside this cut, when cut from underneath,
are sold as spareribs. This piece is generally trimmed to make what is
known as shoulder ham.
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51. The ribs and the loin are cut in one piece. From this piece are
obtained the most desirable chops and roasts. When a roast is desired,
the rib bones are removed from the rib cut. Directly under the backbone
in these cuts is the tenderest piece of pork to be had. When this is
removed in one piece, it is, as in beef, called the tenderloin. Very
often, however, it is left in to be cut up with the rest of the loin.
52. The middle cut is commonly used for bacon, while the belly is most
suitable for salt pork. These two cuts consist of large quantities of
fat and only narrow layers of lean. They are especially valuable for
enriching and flavoring foods, such as beans, that are neither rich in
fat nor highly flavored.
53. The hind leg, or untrimmed ham. When this piece is trimmed and
ready for curing or for roasting, as will be noticed, the
outside skin, or rind, is not removed from either the shoulder or
the ham.
54. TABLE OF PORK CUTS.--As is done in explaining the meats that have
been considered previously, there is here presented a table, designated
as Table III, that gives the names of the pork cuts and the uses to
which they may be put. This table will assist the housewife materially
in learning the names and uses of the various cuts of pork.
TABLE III
NAMES AND USES OF PORK CUTS
NAMES OF CUTS USES OF CUTS
Head Headcheese, boiling, baking
Shoulder Steaks, roasting, curing, smoking
Spareribs Roasting, boiling
Belly Salt pork, curing
Middle cut Bacon, curing, smoking
Ribs Chops, roasting
Loin Chops, roasting
Ham Roasting, curing, smoking
Back fat Lard
Hock Boiling, making jelly
Internal organs and trimmings Sausage
* * * * *
COOKING OF PORK
FRESH PORK AND ITS PREPARATION
55. ROAST PORK.--In the preparation of pork for the table, and a roast
in particular, several points must be taken into consideration. Unlike
beef, which is often served rare, pork must be well done in order to be
satisfactory. Rare pork to most persons is repulsive. Also, as a large
part of the surface of a pork roast, especially one cut from the
shoulder, loin, or ribs, is covered with a layer of fat, pork does not
have to be seared to prevent the loss of juice, nor does it have to be
put into such a hot oven as that required for beef. In fact, if the
temperature of the oven is very high, the outside will finish cooking
before the heat has had a chance to penetrate sufficiently to cook the
center. While this makes no difference with meat that does not need to
be thoroughly cooked, it is a decided disadvantage in the case of pork.
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56. When a shoulder of pork is to be roasted, it makes a very
satisfactory dish if it is boned and stuffed before roasting. To bone
such a piece, run a long, narrow knife all around the bone and cut it
loose; then pick up the bone by one end and shake it until it will pull
out. Fill the opening thus formed with bread or cracker stuffing.
If an especially inviting roast of pork is desired, a crown roast
should be selected, for this is just as attractive as a crown roast of
lamb. It is made by cutting corresponding pieces from each side of the
rib piece, trimming the bones clean as far back as the lean part of the
chops, and fastening the pieces together. A garnish of fried apple rings
is very attractive for such a roast.
57. To cook a roast of any of these varieties, wipe the meat thoroughly,
dredge it with flour, salt, and pepper, and place it on a rack in a
dripping pan. Bake about 3 hours, depending on the size of the roast,
and baste every 15 minutes with fat from the bottom of the dripping pan.
After the roast is removed from the roasting pan, make a gravy as for
any other roast. Serve with apple sauce, baked apples, cranberry sauce,
chilli sauce, pickles, or some other acid dish. Such an accompaniment
aids considerably in the digestion of pork, for it cuts the large amount
of fat that this meat contains and that so often retards the digestion,
and hastens the fat through the stomach.
58. ROAST PIG.--In some households, roasted pig is the favorite meat for
the Thanksgiving or the Christmas dinner. There is sufficient reason for
its popularity, for when properly prepared and attractively garnished,
roasted pig offers a pleasing change from the meat usually served on
such days.
To be suitable for roasting, a pig should be not more than 1 month or 6
weeks old and should not weigh more than 7 or 8 pounds after it is
cleaned. The butcher should prepare it for cooking by scalding off the
hair, washing the pig thoroughly, inside and out, and withdrawing the
entrails of the animal through an incision made in the under part of
the body.
59. When the pig is received in the home, wash it thoroughly, within and
without, wipe it dry, and fill it with stuffing. To make a stuffing
suitable for this purpose, season 2 quarts of fine bread crumbs with 4
tablespoonfuls of chopped onion, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1 teaspoonful
of pepper, and cupful of melted butter. Mix thoroughly and add 3 beaten
eggs. If the stuffing needs moisture, add water or milk. Stuff the pig
firmly with this stuffing, using every effort to restore its original
shape. Then sew up the opening and truss the animal; that is, draw the
hind legs forwards and bend the front legs backwards under the body, and
skewer and tie them into place.
With the animal in this shape, wipe it off with a damp cloth, dredge it
with flour, and place it in a dripping pan, adding 1 cupful of boiling
water in which 1 teaspoonful of salt has been dissolved. Roast in a
moderate oven for at least 1-1/2 hours, or 20 minutes for each pound of
pig. Baste frequently, first with butter and water and later with
drippings. When the skin begins to brown slightly, rub over it a clean
piece of cloth dipped in melted butter. Repeat this operation every 10
minutes until the meat is well done. Then remove the pig to a hot
platter and garnish with parsley, lettuce, celery, or fried or baked
apples. If a more ornamental garnishing is desired, place a lemon in the
mouth and use cranberries for the eyes. In carving, cut the head off,
split through the spine lengthwise, remove the legs, and cut the ribs so
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as to form chops.
60. SAUTED OR BROILED PORK.--Slices cut from the ribs and loin of pork
are called chops, and those obtained from the shoulder and hind legs are
called steaks. These, together with the tenderloin, the small piece of
lean, tender meat lying under the bones of the loin and seldom weighing
more than a pound, are especially suitable for sauteing or broiling.
When they are to be prepared by these processes, saute or broil them as
any other meat, remembering, however, that pork must be well done.
Because of this fact, a more moderate temperature must be employed than
that used for beefsteak.
61. PORK CHOPS IN TOMATO SAUCE.--A slight change from the usual way of
preparing pork chops can be had by cooking them with tomatoes. The
combination of these two foods produces a dish having a very
agreeable flavor.
First brown the chops in their own fat in a frying pan, turning them
frequently so that the surfaces will become evenly browned. When they
have cooked for 15 minutes, pour enough strained stewed tomatoes over
them to cover them well, and season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan
tight, and allow them to simmer until the tomatoes become quite thick.
Place the chops on a hot platter, pour the tomato sauce over them, and
serve hot.
62. SAUTED TENDERLOIN OF PORK.--Since the tenderloin of pork is a very
tender piece of meat, it needs no accompaniment to make it a delicious
dish, but sometimes a change of preparation is welcomed in order to give
variety to the diet. The accompanying directions should therefore be
followed when something different from broiled tenderloin is desired.
Cut the tenderloin into lengthwise slices and brown these slices in
melted butter, turning them several times. Then remove to a cooler part
of the stove, and let them cook slowly in the butter for 15 minutes,
taking care to have them closely covered and turning them once or twice
so that they will cook evenly. At the end of this time, pour enough milk
or cream in the pan to cover the meat well and cook for 15 minutes
longer. With a skimmer, remove the meat, which should be very tender by
this time, from the pan, and put it where it will keep hot. Make a gravy
of the drippings that remain in the pan by thickening it with 1
tablespoonful of flour, stirring it until it is thick and smooth and
seasoning it to taste with salt and pepper. Pour the gravy over the meat
and serve hot.
63. PORK SAUSAGE.--The trimmings and some of the internal organs of pork
are generally utilized to make sausage by chopping them very fine and
then highly seasoning the chopped meat. Pork in this form may be bought
fresh or smoked and loose or in casings. It usually contains
considerable fat and therefore shrinks upon being cooked, for the fat is
melted by the heat and runs out of the sausage.
To cook pork sausages put up in casings, place the required number in a
hot frying pan with a small quantity of hot water. Cover the pan with a
lid and allow the sausages to cook. When they have swelled up and the
skins, or casings, look as if they would burst, remove the cover and
thoroughly prick each one with a sharp fork, so as to allow the fat and
the water to run out. Then allow the water to evaporate and saute the
sausages in their own fat, turning them frequently until they are
well browned.
To cook loose pork sausage, shape it into thin, flat cakes. Grease a
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frying pan slightly, in order to keep the cakes from sticking to the
surface, place the cakes in the pan, and allow them to cook in the fat
that fries out, turning them occasionally until both sides are
well browned.
CURED PORK AND ITS PREPARATION
64. Under the heading of cured pork may be included many of the cuts of
pork, for a large part of a pork carcass can be preserved by curing.
However, this term is usually restricted to include salt pork, bacon,
and ham. As has already been learned, salt pork is obtained from the
belly; bacon, from the middle cut; and ham, from the two hind legs
of pork.
65. SALT PORK.--As the cut used for salt pork is almost entirely fat,
this piece is seldom used alone for the table. Occasionally, it is
broiled to be served with some special food, such as fried apples, but
for the most part it is used for larding; that is, slices of it are
laid across the surface of meat and fish that are lacking in fat and
that therefore cook better and have a more agreeable flavor when fat in
some form is added. Pork of this kind is usually bought by the pound and
then sliced by the housewife as it is needed for cooking purposes.
66. BACON.--The middle cut of pork, upon being cured by smoking, is
regarded as bacon. It is sometimes used for larding purposes, but as it
contains more lean than salt pork, has a very pleasing flavor, and is
the most easily digested fat known, it is much used for food. A piece
that contains the usual proportion of fat and lean is shown in Fig. 22.
The strip of fat that occurs between the rind, or outer coat, and the
first layer of lean is the firmest and the best for larding. The fat
that fries out of bacon is excellent for use in the cooking and
seasoning of other foods, such as vegetables and meats. When bacon is
cooked for the table, its flavor will be improved if it is broiled
rather than fried in its own fat. The rind of bacon should, as a rule,
be trimmed off, but it should never be wasted, for it may be used to
grease a pancake griddle or any pan in which food is to be cooked,
provided the bacon flavor will not be objectionable.
In purchasing bacon, it is usually more economical to buy the whole
side, or the entire middle cut, but if smaller quantities are desired,
any amount, either in one piece or in slices, may be bought. The
commercially cut bacon, which is very thin and becomes very crisp in its
preparation, may be bought with the rind retained or removed. In both of
these forms, it is often put up in jars or packed neatly in flat
pasteboard boxes. While such bacon is undoubtedly the most popular kind,
it should be remembered that the more preparation that is put on such a
food before it enters the home, the more expensive it becomes. Very
satisfactory results can be obtained from bacon bought in the piece if
care is used in cutting it. To secure very thin, even slices, a knife
having a thin blade that is kept sharp and in good condition should
always be used.
67. BACON AND EGGS.--There are many combinations in which bacon is one
of the foods, but no more palatable one can be found than bacon and
eggs. This is generally a breakfast dish; still there is no reason why
it cannot be used at times for luncheon or supper to give variety.
To prepare this combination of foods, first pan-broil the desired number
of slices of bacon in a hot frying pan until they are crisp and then
remove them to a warm platter. Into the fat that has fried out of the
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bacon, put the required number of eggs, which have first been broken
into a saucer. Fry them until they reach the desired degree of hardness,
and then remove to the platter containing the bacon. Serve by placing a
slice or two of bacon on the plate with each egg.
68. BACON COMBINED WITH OTHER FOODS.--Many other foods may be fried in
the same way as eggs and served with bacon. For instance, sliced apples
or sliced tomatoes fried in bacon fat until they become tender, but not
mushy, are delicious when served with crisp pieces of bacon. Also, cold
cereals, such as cream of wheat, oatmeal, corn-meal mush, etc., may be
sliced and fried until crisp and then served with bacon.
69. HAM.--The hind leg of pork, when cured and smoked, is usually known
as ham. In such a ham, the proportion of fat and lean is about right,
but when ham is bought with the rind removed, much of the fat is also
taken off. The best hams weigh from 8 to 15 pounds, and have a thin
skin, solid fat, and a small, short tapering leg or shank.
Several ways of cooking ham are in practice. Very often slices
resembling slices of round steak are cut from the whole ham and then
fried or broiled. If a larger quantity is desired, the entire ham or a
thick cut may be purchased. This is boiled or baked and then served hot
or cold. It is a good idea to purchase an entire ham and keep it in
supply, cutting off slices as they are desired. In such an event, the
ham should be kept carefully wrapped and should be hung in a cool, dry
place. In cutting a ham, begin at the large end and cut off slices
until the opposite end becomes too small to make good slices. The piece
that remains may be cooked with vegetables, may be boiled and served
either hot or cold, or, if it is only a small piece, may be used for
making soup.
70. BROILED HAM.--The methods of broiling and pan broiling are very
satisfactory when applied to ham that is cut in slices. Ham is
pan-broiled in the same way as other meats. To broil ham, place slices 1
inch thick on the hot broiler rack and sear quickly on both sides. Then
reduce the temperature and broil for 15 to 18 minutes, turning the ham
every few minutes until done. Remove to a hot platter. Add a little
water to the drippings in the broiler pan, pour this over the meat, and
serve at once.
71. HAM BAKED IN MILK.--A change from the usual ways of preparing
slices of ham can be had by baking them in milk. A point to remember in
carrying out this method is that the meat must bake slowly in order to
be tender when it is done.
Secure a 2-inch slice of ham, place it in a dripping pan, and completely
cover it with milk. Put in a moderate oven and cook for 2 or more hours.
When the ham is done, its surface should be brown and the milk should be
almost entirely evaporated. If the liquid added in the beginning is not
sufficient, more may be added during the baking.
72. BOILED HAM.--Sometimes it is desired to cook an entire ham,
particularly when a large number of persons are to be served. The usual
way to prepare a whole ham is to boil it. When it is sufficiently
cooked, it may be served hot or kept until it is cold and then served in
slices. Nothing is more appetizing for a light meal, as luncheon or
supper, or for picnic lunches than cold sliced ham. Then, too, boiled
ham is very delicious when it is fried until the edges are crisp.
To prepare boiled ham, first soak the ham in cold water for several
hours and then remove it and scrub it. Place it in a large kettle with
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the fat side down and cover well with cold water. Put over a slow fire
and allow to come to the boiling point very slowly. Boil for 15 minutes
and skim off the scum that has risen. Simmer slowly for about 5 hours,
or at least 25 minutes for each pound of ham. Take from the kettle and
remove the skin about two-thirds of the way back. It will be found that
the skin will peel off easily when the ham is cooked enough. Garnish in
any desirable way and serve hot or cold.
73. BAKED HAM.--Another very appetizing way in which to cook an entire
ham is to bake it. This involves both cooking in water on the top of the
stove and baking in the oven. While this recipe, as well as those
preceding, specifies ham, it should be remembered that shoulder may be
cooked in the same ways.
For baked ham, proceed in the way just explained for boiled ham, but
boil only 12 minutes for each pound. Take the ham from the kettle and
allow it to cool enough to permit it to be handled. Remove the skin.
Then place the ham in a roasting pan and pour over it 1 cupful of water.
Bake 12 minutes for each pound and baste frequently while baking. Serve
hot or cold.
PREPARATION OP LEFT-OVER PORK
74. COLD PORK WITH FRIED APPLES.--A combination that most persons find
agreeable and that enables the housewife to use up left-over pork, is
cold pork and fried apples. To prepare this dish, remove the cores from
sour apples and cut the apples into 1/2-inch slices. Put these in a
frying pan containing hot bacon fat and fry until soft and well browned.
Slice cold pork thin and place in the center of a platter. Arrange the
apples around the pork in a border.
75. SCALLOPED PORK AND CABBAGE.--If not enough pork remains to serve
alone, it can be combined with cabbage to make a most appetizing
scalloped dish. The accompanying recipe shows just how to prepare such
a dish.
SCALLOPED PORK AND CABBAGE
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 c. small thin slices of pork
1-1/2 c. cooked chopped cabbage
1-1/2 c. thin white sauce
1/4 c. buttered crumbs
Arrange the pork and cabbage in layers in a baking dish, having a layer
of cabbage on top. Pour the white sauce over all and sprinkle the crumbs
on top. Bake until the sauce boils and the crumbs are brown.
76. MOCK CHICKEN SALAD.--The similarity in appearance of pork to chicken
makes it possible to prepare a salad of cold pork that is a very good
substitute for chicken salad. A salad of this kind can be used as the
main dish in such a meal as luncheon or supper.
MOCK CHICKEN SALAD
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
4 Tb. vinegar
2 c. diced pork
1-1/2 c. diced celery
Salad dressing
74 / 148
Heat the vinegar and pour it over the diced pork. Set aside to chill.
When ready to serve, add the diced celery and mix well. Pour the salad
dressing over all and serve on crisp lettuce leaves.
SERVING AND CARVING OF MEAT
77. The manner of carving and serving meat in the home depends to some
extent on the kind of meat that is to be served. A way that is favored
by some is to carve the meat before it is placed on the table and then
serve it according to the style of service used. However, the preferable
way is to place the platter containing the meat on the table, together
with the plates, in front of the person who is to do the carving
and serving.
The carver should use considerable care in cutting and serving the meat
so that the platter and the surrounding tablecloth will not become
unsightly. To make each portion as attractive as possible, it should be
cut off evenly and then placed on the plate with the best side up.
Furthermore, the carving should be done in an economical way in order
that whatever remains after the first serving may be served later in the
same meal, and what is not eaten at the first meal may be utilized to
advantage for another. To obtain the best results in carving, a good
carving knife should be secured and it should always be kept well
sharpened.
78. With the general directions clear in mind, the methods of carving
and serving particular kinds of meat may be taken up. Chops, of course,
require no carving. By means of a large fork, one should be placed on
each person's plate. Steaks and roasts, however, need proper cutting in
order that equally good pieces may be served to each person dining. To
carve a steak properly, cut it across from side to side so that each
piece will contain a portion of the tender part, as well as a share of
the tougher part. When cut, the pieces should be strips that are about
as wide as the steak is thick. It is often advisable to remove the bone
from some steaks before placing them on the table.
79. Roasts require somewhat more attention than steaks. Before they are
placed on the table, any cord used for tying should be cut and removed
and all skewers inserted to hold the meat in shape should be pulled out.
To carve a roast of any kind, run the fork into the meat deeply enough
to hold it firmly and then cut the meat into thin slices across the
grain. In the case of a roast leg that contains the bone, begin to carve
the meat from the large end, cutting each slice down to the bone and
then off so that the bone is left clean. Place round of beef and rolled
roasts on the platter so that the tissue side, and not the skin side, is
up, and then cut the slices off in a horizontal direction. To carve a
rib roast properly, cut it parallel with the ribs and separate the
pieces from the backbone.
SAUSAGES AND MEAT PREPARATIONS
80. In addition to the fresh, raw meats that the housewife can procure
for her family, there are on the market numerous varieties of raw,
smoked, cooked, and partly cooked meats, which are generally included
under the term SAUSAGES. These meats are usually highly seasoned, so
they keep better than do fresh meats. They should not be overlooked by
the housewife, for they help to simplify her labor and at the same time
serve to give variety to the family diet. Still, it should be remembered
that when meats are made ready for use before they are put on the
75 / 148
market, the cost of the labor involved in their manufacture is added to
the price charged for them. For this reason, the housewife must be
prepared to pay more for meats of this kind than she would pay if she
could prepare them at home. However, she need not be concerned regarding
their safety, for the government's inspection and regulations prevent
any adulteration of them.
81. Among the numerous varieties of these meats, many of them are
typical of certain localities, while others have a national or an
international reputation. They also vary in the kind of meat used to
make them. Some of them are made from beef, as frankfurters and
certain kinds of bologna, while others are made from pork and include
the smoked and unsmoked sausages, Liverwurst is made from the livers
of certain animals, and may be purchased loose or in skins.
Some of these sausages are used so often in certain combinations of
foods that they are usually thought of in connection with the foods that
it is customary for them to accompany. Frankfurters and sauerkraut, pork
sausage and mashed potatoes, liverwurst and fried corn-meal mush are
well-known combinations of this kind.
82. Closely allied to these sausages, although not one of them, is a
meat preparation much used in some localities and known as scrapple,
or ponhasse. This is prepared by cooking the head of pork, removing
the meat from the bones, and chopping it very fine. The pieces of meat
are then returned to the broth in which the head was cooked and enough
corn meal to thicken the liquid is stirred in. After the whole has
boiled sufficiently, it is turned into molds and allowed to harden. When
it is cold and hard, it can be cut into slices, which are sauted in
hot fat.
83. Besides scrapple, numerous other meat preparations, such as meat
loaves of various kinds and pickled pig's feet, can usually be
obtained in the market. While the thrifty housewife does not make a
habit of purchasing meats of this kind regularly, there are times when
they are a great convenience and also afford an opportunity to vary
the diet.
* * * * *
PREPARATION OF FOODS BY DEEP-FAT FRYING
PRINCIPLES OF DEEP-FAT FRYING
84. Up to this point, all frying of foods has been done by sauteing
them; that is, frying them quickly in a small amount of fat. The other
method of frying, which involves cooking food quickly in deep fat at a
temperature of 350 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit, is used so frequently in
the preparation of many excellent meat dishes, particularly in the use
of left-overs, that specific directions for it are here given, together
with several recipes that afford practice in its use. No difficulty will
be experienced in applying this method to these recipes or to other
recipes if the underlying principles of deep-fat frying are thoroughly
understood and the proper utensils for this work are secured.
85. In the first place, it should be remembered that if foods prepared
in this way are properly done, they are not so indigestible as they are
oftentimes supposed to be, but that incorrect preparation makes for
indigestibility in the finished product. For instance, allowing the food
to soak up quantities of fat during the frying is neither economical nor
conducive to a digestible dish. To avoid such a condition, it is
76 / 148
necessary that the mixture to be fried be made of the proper materials
and be prepared in the right way. One of the chief requirements is that
the surface of the mixture be properly coated with a protein material,
such as egg or egg and milk, before it is put into the fat or that the
mixture contain the correct proportion of egg so that its outside
surface will accomplish the same purpose. The reason for this
requirement is that the protein material is quickly coagulated by the
hot fat and thus prevents the entrance of fat into the inside material
of the fried food.
Care must be taken also in the selection of the fat that is used for
deep-fat frying. This may be in the form of an oil or a solid fat and
may be either a vegetable or an animal fat. However, a vegetable fat is
usually preferred, as less smoke results from it and less flavor of the
fat remains in the food after it is cooked.
86. The utensils required for deep-fat frying consist of a wire basket
and a pan into which the basket will fit. As will be observed, the pan
in which the fat is put has an upright metal piece on the side opposite
the handle. Over this fits a piece of wire with which the basket is
equipped and which is attached to the side opposite the handle of the
basket. This arrangement makes it possible to drain the fat from
whatever food has been fried without having to hold the basket over the
pan.
APPLICATION OF DEEP-FAT FRYING
87. With the principles of deep-fat frying well in mind, the actual work
of frying foods by this method may be taken up. Numerous foods and
preparations may be subjected to this form of cookery, but attention is
given at this time to only croquettes and timbale cases. Croquettes
are small balls or patties usually made of some finely minced food and
fried until brown. Timbale cases are shells in which various creamed
foods are served. As these two preparations are representative of the
various dishes that can be cooked by frying in deep fat, the directions
given for these, if carefully mastered, may be applied to many
other foods.
88. FRYING OF CROQUETTES.--After the mixture that is to be fried has
been prepared, and while the croquettes are being shaped, have the fat
heating in the deep pan. Before the food is immersed, test the
temperature of the fat to make sure that it is hot enough. To do this,
put a 1/2-inch cube of bread in the hot fat and keep it there for 40
seconds. If at the end of this time it is a golden brown, it may be
known that the fat is sufficiently hot for any mixture. Be careful to
regulate the heat so as to keep the fat as near this temperature as
possible, for it should be remembered that each time a cold food is
immersed in hot fat, the temperature is lowered. Usually, a few
minutes' frying is necessary to assure this regulation of the
temperature.
As soon as the correct temperature is reached, put several of the
croquettes in the basket and set the basket in the pan of hot fat so
that the croquettes are entirely covered. Fry until a good brown color
is secured. Then lift the basket out of the fat and allow it to drain
until all the fat possible has dripped from it. Finally remove the
croquettes from the basket and place them on any kind of paper that will
absorb the excessive fat. Serve at once or keep hot until ready
to serve.
77 / 148
89. VEAL CROQUETTES.--Veal that remains from a roast after it has been
served once can be utilized in no better way than in the making of
croquettes; or, if desired, veal may be cooked especially for this
purpose. When such croquettes are served with a sauce of any desirable
kind, such as white sauce or tomato sauce, or with left-over gravy, no
more appetizing dish can be found.
VEAL CROQUETTES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
2 c. cold ground veal
1 c. thick white sauce
2 Tb. chopped onion
1 Tb. chopped parsley
Salt and pepper
1 egg
Fine crumbs
Mix the ground veal with the white sauce, add the onion and parsley, and
salt and pepper to taste. Shape into oblong croquettes. Roll first in
the beaten egg, which, if necessary, may be increased by the addition of
a little milk, and then in the crumbs. Fry in deep fat until a golden
brown. Serve with or without sauce.
90. SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES.--An extremely palatable dish can be made by
frying in deep fat sweetbreads cut any desirable shape and size. These
are usually served with a vegetable, and often a sauce of some kind is
served over both.
To prepare the sweetbreads, parboil them according to the directions
given in Art. 17. Cut them into the kind of pieces desired, sprinkle the
pieces with salt and pepper, and dip them into beaten egg and then into
crumbs. Fry in deep fat and serve with a vegetable or a sauce or both.
91. RICE-AND-MEAT PATTIES.--Sometimes not enough meat remains after a
meal to make a tasty dish by itself. In such a case, it should be
combined with some other food, especially a starchy one, so as to extend
its flavor and produce a dish that approaches nearer a balanced ration
than meat alone does. A small amount of any kind of meat combined with
rice and the mixture then formed into patties, or croquettes, provides
both an appetizing and a nutritious dish.
RICE-AND-MEAT PATTIES
(Sufficient to Serve Six)
1 c. finely chopped left-over meat
1 c. cold steamed rice
1/2 c. thick white sauce
1 Tb. chopped onion
1 tsp. celery salt
Salt and pepper
1 egg
Fine crumbs
Mix the meat and rice, stir into them the white sauce, onion, and celery
salt, and salt and pepper to taste. Shape into croquettes, or patties;
roll first in the egg and then in the crumbs. Fry in deep fat until
golden brown and serve with any desirable sauce.
92. TIMBALE CASES.--Such foods as creamed sweetbreads, creamed
sweetbreads and mushrooms, and other delicate foods that are served in
78 / 148
small quantities can be made very attractive by serving them in timbale
cases. These are made out of a batter by means of a timbale iron and
fried in deep fat until brown. In serving them, place them either on a
small plate or on the dinner plate with the rest of the dinner. To make
them especially attractive, dip the edge into egg white and then into
very finely chopped parsley.
93. To prepare timbale cases, a timbale iron is required. Such an iron
consists of a fluted piece of metal that is either solid or hollow and
that has attached to it a handle long enough to keep the hand
sufficiently far away from the hot fat.
The batter required for timbale cases and the directions for combining
them are as follows:
TIMBALE-CASE BATTER
(Sufficient to Make Twenty)
1 egg
1/2 c. milk
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. sugar
3/4 c. flour
Beat the egg with a fork just enough to break it up thoroughly. Add the
milk, salt, and sugar. Stir in the flour with as little beating as
possible. After preparing this mixture, allow it to stand for 1/2 hour,
so that any air it contains in the form of bubbles may escape and thus
prevent the formation of holes and bubbles in the finished
timbale cases.
When about to use the batter, pour it into a cup or some other small
utensil that is just large enough to admit the iron easily. The iron
must be nearly covered with batter, but a large amount of it will not be
needed if a small utensil is used. Place the iron in the hot fat, until
it is hot, or for about 4 minutes. Then let it drip and place it in the
batter, being careful not to permit the batter to come quite to the top
of the iron, and remove it at once. Place it immediately into the hot
fat, allowing the fat to come higher on the iron than the batter does.
This precaution will prevent the formation of a ridge of bubbles around
the top of the timbale case. Fry in the deep fat until the case is
nicely browned. Remove the iron from the fat, and allow it to drip.
Then carefully remove the timbale case from the iron with a fork and
place it on paper that will absorb the fat.
If your timbales are soft instead of crisp, you will know that the
mixture is too thick and should be diluted. Too hot or too cold an iron
will prevent the mixture from sticking to it.
MEAT (PART 2)
EXAMINATION QUESTIONS
(1) (a) What is veal? (b) From animals of what age is the best veal
obtained?
(2) Compare veal and beef as to characteristics.
(3) What cuts of veal are most suitable for: (a) roasts? (b)
cutlets? (c) soup and stews? (d) chops?
79 / 148
(4) (a) What organs of veal are used for foods? (b) What are
sweetbreads?
(5) (a) Why is veal more indigestible than beef? (b) What important
point must be remembered concerning the cooking of veal?
(6) (a) What substance in veal is utilized in the preparation of
jellied veal? (b) Explain how this dish is prepared.
(7) (a) At what age is sheep sold as lamb? (b) How do lamb and
mutton differ as to food substances?
(8) Compare the flesh of lamb and mutton as to appearance.
(9) As they apply to lamb and mutton, explain the terms: (a) rack;
(b) saddle.
(10) Explain why some cuts of lamb and mutton are tough and others
tender.
(11) What is: (a) a crown roast of lamb? (b) a French chop?
(12) (a) Describe pork of the best kind. (b) Why is the food value
of pork higher than that of other meats?
(13) (a) Name the cuts of pork. (b) What is meant by leaf lard?
(14) What important points must be taken into consideration in the
cooking of pork?
(15) (a) Name some of the accompaniments that are usually served with
pork. (b) What is the purpose of these accompaniments?
(16) (a) For what purpose is salt pork generally used? (b) What is
bacon? (c) To what uses is bacon put?
(17) (a) Give the general directions for the carving and serving of
meat. (b) Explain how to carve and serve a steak.
(18) (a) What is meant by deep-fat frying? (b) Why must a food that
is to be fried in deep fat contain or be coated with a protein material?
(19) (a) What utensils are necessary for deep-fat frying? (b)
Explain the procedure in frying croquettes in deep fat.
(20) (a) For what purpose are timbale cases used? (b) Explain how to
make a batter for timbale cases.
ADDITIONAL WORK
Select a cut of beef that you consider most desirable from an economical
standpoint. Buy a quantity that may be used to the greatest advantage
for your family. Prepare it in any way you desire.
State the number of pounds purchased, the price of the meat, the number
of meals in which it was served, and the number of persons (tell how
many adults and how many children) served at each meal. Estimate the
cost of each portion by dividing the cost of the whole by the number of
persons served.
80 / 148
Make up an original dish in which left-over meat is used and submit the
recipe to us.
* * * * *
POULTRY
* * * * *
POULTRY AS A FOOD
1. POULTRY is the term used to designate birds that have been
domesticated, or brought under the control of man, for two purposes,
namely, the eggs they produce and the flesh food they supply. All the
common species of domestic fowls--chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys,
guinea fowls, and pigeons--are known as poultry. However, none of these
species is included under this term unless it is raised for at least one
of the two purposes mentioned. As the term is to be understood in this
Section, poultry includes all domestic fowls that are killed in order
that their flesh may be cooked and used as food for human beings. Of
course, many wild birds are killed for the flesh food they furnish, but
they are classed under the term game.
2. Poultry is probably never a necessity in the ordinary dietary, and
when prices are high it is a decided luxury. Still it does aid
materially in relieving the monotony of the usual protein foods, and it
supplies that "something out of the ordinary" for special occasions.
Then, too, it is often valuable in the diet of an invalid or some person
with a poor appetite. Poultry is, of course, used more in some homes
than in others; yet there is scarcely a home in which it is not served
some time or another. A knowledge of this food and its preparation and
serving will therefore prove to be a valuable asset to any housewife.
3. To arrive at a knowledge of the use of poultry as a food, the
housewife must necessarily become familiar with its selection and
purchase. Then she must give attention to both its preparation for
cooking and its actual cooking, and, finally, to its serving. In all
these matters she will do well to adhere to the practice of economy,
for, at best, poultry is usually an expensive food. Before entering into
these matters in detail, however, it will be well to look into them in a
general way.
4. In the selection of poultry, the housewife should realize that
poultry breeders have so developed certain breeds, even of the same
species, that they are better for table use than others. The flesh of
any breed of poultry may be improved by feeding the birds good food and
giving them proper care; and it is by applying these principles that the
breeders are enabled to better the quality of this food. Other things
also influence the quality of poultry flesh as food, as, for example,
the way in which the poultry is prepared for market and the care it
receives in transportation and storage. Unless these are as they should
be, they have a detrimental effect on poultry, because such food is
decidedly perishable.
It is possible to exercise economy in the purchase of poultry, but
before the housewife can do this she must be able to judge the age of
each kind she may desire. On the age depends to a great extent the
81 / 148
method of cookery to be followed in preparing the poultry for the table.
Likewise, she must know the marks of cold-storage poultry, as well as
those of poultry that is freshly killed; and she must be familiar with
the first marks of deterioration, or decay, that result from storing the
food too long or improperly.
Economy may also be practiced in preparing poultry for cooking. To bring
this about, however, the housewife should realize that the best method
of preparing any kind of poultry for cooking is always the most
economical. It means, too, that she should understand thoroughly the
methods of drawing and cutting, so that she may either do this work
herself or direct it.
The way in which poultry is cooked has a bearing on the cost of this
food, too. For example, a young, tender bird prepared by a wrong method
not only is a good dish spoiled, but is a waste of expensive material.
Likewise, an older bird, which has more flavor but tougher tissues, is
almost impossible as food if it is not properly prepared. Both kinds
make appetizing dishes and do not result in waste if correct methods of
cooking are followed in their preparation.
Even the way in which poultry is served has a bearing on the cost of
this food. For this reason, it is necessary to know how to carve, as
well as how to utilize any of this food that may be left over, if the
housewife is to get the most out of her investment.
* * * * *
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